I noticed him once before about a week ago. Then today again he's napping for awhile. He's eating a 3-4 crix a day. I mist a couple times a day.He goes to drink. He's in a 20 g glass aquarium with stick and silk plants I got from breeder. Light is 100w Trex MV bulb. A couple nites it got down to 65 degrees but now I have nite neat lamp 75w on and it stays 70. Day time is 80. I dust with reptocal and flukers vit. otherwise seems okay. I do have some antibiotics i got from breeder. Should i start him on them? Or just keep a close watch? He seems to wake up well before lights come on cruise around. Is this normal?
3-4 mth panther is napping
- Thread starter campbell
- Start date
chambabysitter1
New Member
Not even an owner yet myself, but I've been reading long enough to realize everyone is going to link you here.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
Everyone here will give amazing help, but if you fill that out the help will be really detailed and as useful as it can get.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
Everyone here will give amazing help, but if you fill that out the help will be really detailed and as useful as it can get.
kylerenz
Established Member
Your chameleon should not be napping or closing its eyes during the day. Your husbandry techniques are not correct. A 100 watt MV bulb is way too much for that size of cage and you should not have him in a glass cage in the first place. You need a fresh air enclosure that is made with screen sides. 65 is not too low at night, it is actually very good. The night lamp is not necessary if it stays right around 65. Your cham likes to have the cool off period at night. So far that is all that I can tell but you need to use the thread "how to ask a question" so that we can further help you out.
I'll do that. But I should tell you guys just to get your opinion.
I've only had him for about 3 weeks and the breeder told me today if I wanted
to swap this guy with a larger guy he would do that. He's getting rid of everything he has to another breeder. Should I swap it out?
I've only had him for about 3 weeks and the breeder told me today if I wanted
to swap this guy with a larger guy he would do that. He's getting rid of everything he has to another breeder. Should I swap it out?
dodolah
Retired Moderator
I would take the offer.
give the baby to the breeder, and ask the breeder to wait giving you the big one since you need to fine tune the enclosure for him.
You do not have a lot of time, research. there are sooo many things you need to fix in your current husbandry.
here is a good link that will steer you to great care sheet.
If i am not mistaken Julirs have a sheet on things to buy. I hope she can see this post and gave you the link.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/links/chameleon-websites-2/
Go buy the equipment asap.
where are you located? US? UK? Canada?
depending on your climate, you might need some adjustment to the care.
Sang
New Member
OK... well first off , several problems with your husbandry.
he should not be in a glass enclosure, screenmesh is ideal for chameleons.
a night time temperature is fine 65F is acceptable for night time. day should be about 75 ambient .. .85F max for basking.
he should be eating upto 20 crickets a day at 3-4 months. *2/3 week old crickets*.
silk plants are good for coverage, but you definatly want real plants.
if he is sleeping during the days, you got some issues. it may be time to make a vet appointment.
what exactly are you dusting with/ gutloading your foods.
my cham chills most the day doing random stuff. but he doesn't sleep.
he should not be in a glass enclosure, screenmesh is ideal for chameleons.
a night time temperature is fine 65F is acceptable for night time. day should be about 75 ambient .. .85F max for basking.
he should be eating upto 20 crickets a day at 3-4 months. *2/3 week old crickets*.
silk plants are good for coverage, but you definatly want real plants.
if he is sleeping during the days, you got some issues. it may be time to make a vet appointment.
what exactly are you dusting with/ gutloading your foods.
my cham chills most the day doing random stuff. but he doesn't sleep.
Wel the breeder uses aquarium's for all his young chams. I did buy
a 3" tall cage for when he gets bigger. Maybe I can section it off and use it now.
The bredder also uses MV bulbs.
As for dusting w/ Jurasi cal and flukers multi-vit. Feed them apple peels orange, dried seaweed, potato and gutload food I bought at pet store. 20 crix is a lot are you sure? What size? I give him 1/4" to 1/2". Again that's what breeder said he could have. Also I'm looking into getting a humidifier. Something called Tropic air. Heard of this? I'm just concerned th spraying is not enough. I tried a real plant (sheferella) and I placed screen over soil and put rocks over that and the crix still hid in there. I found 6-8 crix in there.
I've started treating him w/ antibiotic but I think I'm going w/ the larger cham.
Thanks!
a 3" tall cage for when he gets bigger. Maybe I can section it off and use it now.
The bredder also uses MV bulbs.
As for dusting w/ Jurasi cal and flukers multi-vit. Feed them apple peels orange, dried seaweed, potato and gutload food I bought at pet store. 20 crix is a lot are you sure? What size? I give him 1/4" to 1/2". Again that's what breeder said he could have. Also I'm looking into getting a humidifier. Something called Tropic air. Heard of this? I'm just concerned th spraying is not enough. I tried a real plant (sheferella) and I placed screen over soil and put rocks over that and the crix still hid in there. I found 6-8 crix in there.
I've started treating him w/ antibiotic but I think I'm going w/ the larger cham.
Thanks!
KevinA
Avid Member
Your problem is almost certainly with the bulb you are using. Hve you ever looked directly at the suN/ We'll thats kind of like what you are doing to your chameleon, just it can get away from it. For example, I used that light on a screen cage that was 3 feet wide 4 feet tal and 24 inches deep and found that light to be more than needed.
See this web page.
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/mercvapournarrowfloods.htm#uvheatnewflood
If you are going to use one of these bulbs, you must do your research, read and understand that whole website. Otherwise, get a florescent uvb tube light and a seperate basking light. That bulb is completely unsutable for your cage.
In a 20 gallon aquarium it is really IMPOSSIBLE to set up a proper habitat for a chameleon with the light you are using. And I do have experience with the exact light you have.
First you have the problem with the fact you are most likely baking(cooking) your chameleon with the heat emitted from this light. Which is probably on eof the reasons his eyes are closed because you are destroying his eyes with this set up. In a screen enclosure that size, I am using between a 23w-40w light and even the 40 gets hot for them.
Second. You are probably destroying his eyes due to the amount of uv radiation produced by this bulb. The directions for this bulb specifically state Use no closer to a reptale than the recomemended minimum distances. And the recomended distance for that bulb is 12"-18" in an ideal environent, which you can not create in an aquarium due to the fact that the heat does not dissapate and the fact that the aquarium you are using is probably no larger than 18 inches high 18 inches long and 12 inches deep.. Panther chameleons are not desert animals and need shade as well as sunlight.
Bottom line, your chameleon is most likely closing his eyes because you are destroying his eyes with that bulb. But we cant be sure because none of us are there with the animal.
Have you taken temperature readings directly under the light? I bet you it's higher than 80. Pobably higher than 100.
Get a new lighting system and consider using the trex mv 100 watt when you have a cage of 2 feet by 2 feet by 4 feet high or larger.
Thats a bit much. (20) 3 week old crickets is probably larger than the chameleon itself. The largest of my bunch at over 7 inches eats about 10 3-4 week old crickets a day and he is stuffed and most of them go to waste(not fully digested and excreted).
See this web page.
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/mercvapournarrowfloods.htm#uvheatnewflood
If you are going to use one of these bulbs, you must do your research, read and understand that whole website. Otherwise, get a florescent uvb tube light and a seperate basking light. That bulb is completely unsutable for your cage.
In a 20 gallon aquarium it is really IMPOSSIBLE to set up a proper habitat for a chameleon with the light you are using. And I do have experience with the exact light you have.
First you have the problem with the fact you are most likely baking(cooking) your chameleon with the heat emitted from this light. Which is probably on eof the reasons his eyes are closed because you are destroying his eyes with this set up. In a screen enclosure that size, I am using between a 23w-40w light and even the 40 gets hot for them.
Second. You are probably destroying his eyes due to the amount of uv radiation produced by this bulb. The directions for this bulb specifically state Use no closer to a reptale than the recomemended minimum distances. And the recomended distance for that bulb is 12"-18" in an ideal environent, which you can not create in an aquarium due to the fact that the heat does not dissapate and the fact that the aquarium you are using is probably no larger than 18 inches high 18 inches long and 12 inches deep.. Panther chameleons are not desert animals and need shade as well as sunlight.
Bottom line, your chameleon is most likely closing his eyes because you are destroying his eyes with that bulb. But we cant be sure because none of us are there with the animal.
Have you taken temperature readings directly under the light? I bet you it's higher than 80. Pobably higher than 100.
Get a new lighting system and consider using the trex mv 100 watt when you have a cage of 2 feet by 2 feet by 4 feet high or larger.
Thats a bit much. (20) 3 week old crickets is probably larger than the chameleon itself. The largest of my bunch at over 7 inches eats about 10 3-4 week old crickets a day and he is stuffed and most of them go to waste(not fully digested and excreted).
Last edited:
nightcrawler
Avid Member
where at in ohio?
lewboo2
New Member
i would swap the MVB, along with a few other things like the others have said.
2 weeks ago i swapped my mvb back to an incandescent + 5.0 tube like i had in the beginning and my cham seems to prefer the combo, if think they need some choice between uvb and heat but correct me if im wrong
2 weeks ago i swapped my mvb back to an incandescent + 5.0 tube like i had in the beginning and my cham seems to prefer the combo, if think they need some choice between uvb and heat but correct me if im wrong
N. Canton OH-
Thanks Kevin-This is great info to have. I can see how this light can effect the animal. Though I do have the bulb 12" above highest basking spot and it's at one end of the tank (see attach) so it thermal regulate. Does this make sense?
The Cham can stroll to other end of tank to get out of heat and light. Like I said I do have a 3'x18"x18" cage for when he gets bigger. Maybe I can convert that somehow smaller to use now. What do you think?
Until then I'll move the light up and check temps carefully.
Thanks Kevin-This is great info to have. I can see how this light can effect the animal. Though I do have the bulb 12" above highest basking spot and it's at one end of the tank (see attach) so it thermal regulate. Does this make sense?
The Cham can stroll to other end of tank to get out of heat and light. Like I said I do have a 3'x18"x18" cage for when he gets bigger. Maybe I can convert that somehow smaller to use now. What do you think?
Until then I'll move the light up and check temps carefully.
Attachments
toddmkeller
Avid Member
The real issue is not the distance from the basking spot. You cannot get proper ventilation with a 100 watt MV bulb cooking into a glass tank. The heat bulids too high and its hard to create a temperature gradient. If you plan on keeping that tank there is no question that you will need a lower wattage bulb. I don't even use 100 watts for my adult Panthers. I personally would go along with Kevin considering I use the same setup. A 40 watt regular incandecent bulb will work perfect in a dome reflector and a 5.0 reptisun. Your chameleon will thank you in the end. Heck you should just go on over to the LLL reptile website, order a screen cage (I like the 16x16x30 for juveniles), a 5.0 reptisun bulb and maybe a few other things (depending on what supplements you have etc...)
Any more questions let us know,
See ya!
Todd
Any more questions let us know,
See ya!
Todd
He gave me antibiotics because I told him he was sleeping. Did anyone see my pic of setup. The bulb is off to one side. Shouldn't this be enough of diverse heat. The temp. is 87 degrees 12" right below light. The other parts of tank vary from low 70's. The cham chooses the side with the light 90% of the day. I spray him and he licks. I feed him and he eats. Not 20 crix but he eats. I claen poop every day. I'll keep a close watch on him and may switch to 5.o flour and 40w incan bulb for heat. BUT the breeder has bred vieled and panthers for 15 years with great success. TAT!
