1st Chameleon and it's a Veiled

JackP308

Avid Member
So I got my 1st Chameleon last week. He's a 5 month old veiled. When I bought him from the reptile show which I really didn't want to resort to. He was the brightest and most patterned out of the 40 or so others in between the 2 cages they were all housed in. Well I already had and 18x18x24 Exo Terra Screened set up since I was in the cham market. It has a 18 inch UVB fixture w a Reptisun 5.0 for UVB and for natural light im using the dual compact top off of one of my other terrariums with two 26 watt Repti Glo 2.0s for now Till after christmas. Then I can afford the Dual Canopy which will fit 1 repti sun 5.0 and repti sun 2.0 liner bulbs. With a Halogen 35 watt basking light fixed in center. Anyways its daytime temps near top basking areas range upper 80's f afternoon and now at 9 am its 82 rarely hits 90 maybe sometimes. Nighttime low 70s F. I use spray bottle several times a day for hydration and sometime use a cup for a drip and feed crickets. I use the calcium supplements that I use for all my geckos to dust once and a while. Its Repashy Calcium. I have 3 live plants 2 Pothos and abricola all in pots replanted in organic fox farm mix covered in heavy river rock. I used the rocks because I caught him in the bottom foilage trying to eat dirt and and who knows what else , perlite ect... Well hes still goes down now attacks rocks and chews on them once in a while shoot tonge at huge rocks. Most are unable for him to even think of eating some could be ingested but it wouldnt be an easy task I just hate going in rearranging taking rocks out putting in. Till he is settled. He seems so Dark most of the day sits on the Vine I tied across the top and even sleeps there. Seems like a balancing act really. Always dark though as if sun bathing but I don't want to cook him. At night he goes to sleep and gets and awesome color to him. I don't know if its because he is finally relaxed or no longer taking in heat. Who knows, well I don't yet. Eats once and a while sometimes as soon as I put a cup in sometimes not till one escapes the cup and starts walking around terrariums and hell hunt it. Oh yea humidity having trouble but in process of a background to keep in some moisture usually 39 to 40 percent humidity slight rise at night. . Once in a while he'll rub his eye on vine suck it back in head and pop back to normal looks very disturbing but Im a paranoid person. He's eyes are clear wide open always moving just twice now I seen him do the weird eye thing. Sorry for such a ramble just wanted to throw as much out there as possible if anyone could think of anything that I should know or do feel free to let me know thank You. Have a nice Day

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Yes I know he really needs more to climb around the top . Hopefully in 2days more vines and Highways and Biways, Im going to wait till I get the background I already ordered so I dont have to disturb him everyday putting in stuff rearranging like I usually do. Im very indecisive most the time and switch things up a bunch. Anything else feel free to let me know I appreciate any info or opinions.
 
Welcome to owning a chameleon and to the forums. Most of your husbandry looks pretty good. Are you gutloading your feeders with anything? gutloading with a variety of fresh veggies/fruits/green is very important as whatever your feeders eat your cham is eating too. You will also want to get some more supplements. Does the calcium you are using have D3 init? you will want to dust with calcium without d3 at most feedings, calcium with D3 approx 2 times a month and a multi vitamin approx 2 times a month as well. It is good that you are getting new lighting soon. Are you planning on getting him a new enclosure at that time as well because his current enclosure is too small for a adult veiled and a 24 x 24 x 48 would be recommended. Add some more vines/branches in the top and all looks pretty good.
 
Dust Occasionally with Repashy Superfoods Calcium Plus I read that they do not need dusted all to often or you could cause problems. I gutload with more of whole grains and wheats right now. I have all bran oats and some other grains grinded together. i also get a mix of TBH i dont know what from when I buy crickets at the show. Ziplock bag looks like little nuts almost. Also cricket gel they come with sometimes flavored it looks like. Pink Orange or white. Also slice up oranges and Place flukers orange vitamins c Cubes in the cricket container. I clean It out Of dead crickets and Clean crick poo. I take good care of the Crickets but. What Kinda veggies Do you all recommend. I usually stay away from stuff that will mold quickly. Also I want to hang fresh veggies daily anyways for veiled to graze on since I see him munching leaves alreadys. Thanks


Guaranteed Analysis

Crude Protein 12 %
Crude Fat .75%
Crude Fiber 3%
Moisture 8%
Ash 8%
Calcium CA min 16%
Calcium Ca Max 18%
Vitamin A 400,000 IU/Kg
Vitamin D-3 min 40,000 IU/Kg
 
Yes Id could always get a 4ft tall Enclosure ready by next month If i really need to But I dont see why I would when he is only 5 months old anyways figured 8 months maybe 9 or 10 months I would consider him an adult.Excuse my ignorance about ageing and sizing chameleons. From knowledge of these forums chams usually go through 3 cages in their lives at minimum. Baby, Juvy , Adult . I just figured he was still considered a Juvenile and require juvenile care. Also I am still getting the dual top just so its easier less hoods all in one uvb visual and basking. What is wrong with The lighting now other than some dont prefer to have compacts which these are the brand new 2.0s which are not proven to cause any eye problems. Either way Im getting new lighting I just figured what I have is more than optimal for him since I provide UVB as in REPTI Sun And visual with 2.0s and I do have basking 75watt dimmable clamp w Sun GLo but I dont care to use it..
 
what should I use to gut load for best results. I usually go through a 1000 every 2 weeks or so. I have 3 Tokay Geckos I feed as well I Have a breeding trio of crested geckos that eat crickets once in a while along with the Leopards that mainly eat crickets as well. They have been all doing great on the gutload I have been using but Chams crickets I could always house separately and gut load differently
 
If nobody else chimes in I can give you more info tonight as I'm at work right now typing this on my cell phone and thats alot of typing so... Im not an expert either but have kept a very healthy female veiled for the last year with all the help/info I got from these forums so you can try doing a search of some of these topics and get alot from reading old posts without having to wait for replies.
 
Thanks no problem appreciate it , yea I have been researching and Ill continue as well. I seen people were using Rep Cal 2-3 times monthly then Rep cal w D3 1-2 month but not a lot at a time then a 3rd some other mineral supplements 1-2 monthly.
 
Thanks no problem appreciate it , yea I have been researching and Ill continue as well. I seen people were using Rep Cal 2-3 times monthly then Rep cal w D3 1-2 month but not a lot at a time then a 3rd some other mineral supplements 1-2 monthly.

EVERYTHING including this is explained in the blog above.

The feeders have to be "lightly" dusted with 3 kinds of supplements. Plain calcium (no d3) at just about every feeding...... if you skip one or two days a month that's ok. Calcium with d3 twice a month and a multi. vit. once a month. In this link I use the 1st, 3rd and 5th one. http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/vitamins-medicines-and-cage-cleaners/
 
Here's some information you might like to read.....
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
 
well thanks I already got most of that down actually. Using tube 5.0 Reptisun already and I do dust feeders with the right supplements and I gut load at least for 24 hrs ahead of time.I Need to add more greens to the diets of my feeders. But my veiled actually is given fresh greens now to eat as he pleases.


I did add new vines and branches as well and he is happier already. Not such a struggle to maneuver from one direction to another Ill post pic in a few
 
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