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another thing to consider, just like anything else in the world, you get what you pay for. I've seen them at pet shops for 40, but that's because they buy in quantity, from a random source, put very little effort into husbandry and try to get em out as fast as possible. there's still such a...

calcium plus does contain d3. its less than a calcium + d3 formula, but it does have some in there, along with other vitamins. I usually use calcium w/o d3 every day, calcium plus once a week, and multi vitamins once a month.

the dried out part isnt the issue, the urate should be white (if they aren't going very often the tip may be slightly discolored) but that urate is bright orange and that's not a good sign. more mistings for longer periods of time might help. but with how orange that is, I would give him a...

well in enclosure pic you can see there's a vine leading straight to the light, so I'd say it's a possibility that tail was closer to the light than the rest of its body it could be possible

for the wood, especially since this isnt a long term en closure you should look at yellawood. it is pressurized wood that is naturally resistant to moisture, rot, and fungus. wouldn't require any further staining or treating to hold up for a year or two.

is it an actual humidifier you have or a fogger? do you see the "humidity" coming out of it? and is it placed inside cage or outside? some pics of enclosure could help too. but my personal opinion on it is, it's probably the humidifier causing issues I would up the mistings, and lower if not get...

very true, if they came from same place, might be a good idea to bring a fecal sample in to vet just to make sure

sorry for your loss but if I read that right and you only had him two days when this all started I would say all those issues were pre existing but that does look like a happy healthy guy, so hopefully the new lights, and healthier cham go smoothly for you

I would stay away from spinach as a gut load, it's very high in phosphorus and can cause issues.

yeah like @Goose502 said, they're ok in short bursts here and there, especially when the lights are off. but I wouldn't run it too much. and when the lights are on it will breed bacteria fast and can lead to RIs. I would get as much live plants as possible as they maintain humidity very well...

dont know of anyway to stop reflections, that's kind of the downside to glass enclosures. is it causing him stress? does he react to the reflections?

if it's running directly into the cage that would be my suggestion. it can breed bacteria pretty quick. I will say I'm not an expert with jacksons, but I'd say the bulk of your daytime humidity should come from misting and live plants. if you have a humidifier in the room raising the overall...

so few things I will address, I know you mentioned you know about size of tank. but I would go for a 2'x2'x4' since he is getting close to being full size at this point. your supplements are off, you should be dusting with calcium without d3 every feeding and only using the d3 once every couple...

yeah during the night you're a lot safer than with the lights on. but if you dont have one already, there's digital hygrometers for less than $10 that will show you the daily highs and lows, if it seems the highs are too high cut back, if lows are too low add more

beautiful viv, buf I would still be worried about ventilation. the substrate alone would block airflow on the bottom. but even if that wasn't there, it looks like the bottom leads right into that cabinet anyway which would still block air circulation. I would suggest at very least to drill a...

is it in the cage or just in the same room? if you have a hygrometer that shows the highs and lows of the day, I'd suggest starting for a couple hours and seeing what the low is, and adjust from there until you find the sweet spot. but if the lights aren't on there's a lot less chance of...

agreed, more info could help diagnose the specific issue better. but even just with pics of depressed casque while diet is normal would point towards a parasite to me. and if you need to see a vet for that might as well have them diagnose the other issues properly themselves.

I would fill out the how to ask for help form so we can get better idea of husbandry. https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/ if he is dehydrated you will see it in his urates white is good, the more yellow or orange you see the more dehydrated. opening mouth can be a sign he is too hot...

older chams do shed more slowly, but you're on the right track with more mistings, you can try and put him on a plant in the shower, point shower head away from the cham and have it luke warm. leave him in there for 5 mins or so, it will help hydrate him and put him in a very humid environment...

gotcha, think I might start a roach colony one day, and would definitely keep that separate. but with one juvenile it seems like more work than it's worth, and I think I'd end up with too many. now when I can talk wifey into getting a panther that might be another story.