I personally think the minimum size for an adult male Yemen/veiled is 2x2x4 but whenever possible, if you have room, you should go wider. You don’t want a cage much deeper then 2 feet since it makes it difficult to manage the cage and 4 feet high is plenty since you can always get a metal...
Davy,
I went to that show and those pygmies looked a bit rough – so make sure they are getting well hydrated. I hope you got the same species for the M/F too since I saw three different species there. If you can, please post some pics. If the male tried breeding with the female then they are...
It is a good shot if I may say so myself. I dont go looking to take photos ... I see them as they happen and then run to get my camera. I really like taking photos of the supers latelly ... this is a CB female I hatched out about 5 months ago.
-roo
I also suggest a 10.0 AND a plant light or something of that nature to add more light. For some reason, despite the fact they kick out more UVB then a 5.0 bulb, they aren’t as bright as one. I get the plant fluorescents at Lowes or Home Depot but will probably try one of these out next …...
Right, but I think your "some people use it some people dont" comment will confuse him and I think he isnt planning on taking he cham outside at this time so he needs the calcium supp with D3.
-roo
Maybe I'm having a dumb-ass moment but isnt the "calcium one" he mentioned have the D3? Are you refering to the vitamin supp or you refering to the calcium supp without the D3?
I suspect he's on wireless ... most likely a smart phone.
-roo
Get a box of suitable size and cram a stick in there so its suspended from corner to opposite corner. This will give the cham something to grip and it will feel more comfortable. Keep the box shut and out of direct sunlight in the car.
-roo
Speaking of vitamin A … does anyone know if insects (in general) can process it into the preformed? If so, on average how long would it take? I gutload insects the night before so if they can process it into the preformed then I would want to know the average duration to do so for obvious...
I would … many of us feel that chameleons regulate UVB just like they do heat. So if the cham wants UV but not heat, and both bulbs are very close to one another then you aren’t giving the cham much choice and choices such as that, heat gradients, different feeders, etc. are one of the keys to...
It looks good, the only things I would do is add more sticks of varying widths … brevs prefer sticks they can comfortably get their hands around and don’t seem to utilize anything much larger as in a stick they can completely hide behind. The sticks should be collected from the outside and...
I clean mine once a week which is more then I probably need to and I have three of them going. I have never seen anything nasty in them and rarely feel any type of slimy build up however it’s better to be safe then sorry. I was chatting with a vet school friend and he mentioned that sure there...
I understand your concern and I had the same issues/concerns too.
Here is what I would do …
First remove all the crickets out of the tank with some 8” tweezers or something like that.
Wait three days before feeding them again. Just recently I have decided to feed three times a week...
A warm mist humidifier will surely promote bacteria faster then a cool mist one and you will have to clean it at least once a week I would think. That and it probably pulls more power then a cool mist one for the heating element.
-roo