Search results

Great point ^ You don't usually want to feed things that can get bunched up and not digested properly. As with most things in life, moderation is key. Too much of one thing is a bad thing.

That's a good idea. Note as he thermoregulates up and down the tank what colors he makes. A different times of day. Before/after feeding. Find the variables you can use and assess them:)

Well if you cant prove why his colour changes then you don't have a lot you can report. Can you feed him? Record his mood based on different types of prey?

You just need to make sure the cage isn't overly big. Most people stick to 18x18x36 for baby cages, then go to the moon as they get older. More plants the better, lots of places to hide and spots in the cage that are cooler/more humid for his thermoregulation.

^what he said, except try not to shock him by showing him wild colors or strange things. Even though it may look fun to a casual observer this is stress to your guy. Feel bad for this guy... :( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scexMmiS99E

I have heard that the pupated mealworms are safe to feed most cham's, but don't take my word on it. An expert should chime in soon.

In order for you to "study colour change in relation to behavior in a simple way" you must establish a controlled environment in which you know what behavior is occurring in a controlled state, so you record that as a "ground-zero". You then change the environment to alter his behavior and...

The only thing I can recommend that I can call back from my lab days is that for observations you need to keep your subject as sterile and as in-dynamic as possible. Make sure you have some time to establish a control. Then you can add in elements to study, and record the differences...

30k a month! Booyeashuckah!!

No feeder bigger in what way? Length? The rule you stated makes it seem like you could never feed worms.. The space between their eyes never gets larger than 3/4"-1", many bugs are much larger than this.. I need a little clarification. I can realize that I shouldn't feed something WIDER than...

Hey, So my Cham is coming next week (ambanja/ambilobe) and I have been notified just how much of a baby he is. He is still eating 2 week crickets and fruit flies. Are 2 week crickets equivalent to 1/4" or are they pinheads? I wont be sure of his exact size till he gets here. I guess I...

Another pic, cant tell which one is the one in which he is fired up, both pretty bright.

350 CDN for Ambanja/Ambilobe cross from chameleonsgalore in Calgary, AB (plus shipping)

Hopefully someone brought this up in the past 51 pages. Just the beginning of a whole realm of music not noticed by mainstream public. Skip to 2:40 if your not a fan of the shakere https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQKzNIGphL8

that's interesting about horns, I have heard they are pretty nutritious. although being very high in water. I suppose not. Butters maybe then?

I see your quarrel. Your doing the best you can. Maybe have another attempt at breeding, maybe horns are easier? Does he like fruit? I have seen some chams eating papaya by hand. Experiment, you have an individually specific problem which will need an individually specific solution. Only you...

Yeah panther for sure, and im thinking an Ambilobe with something else though. Anything known for having lots of white?

I live in Winnipeg and the winters are the most brutal here than pretty much anywhere in North America. My reptile shops ship in horns and butters year round and were not a big reptile city. Im looking into breeding my own silks, im pretty confident I can do it.

No local shops carry, or can order for you these worms? I would ask your best reptile shop to bring something in. Im sure they would accommodate. Or consider breeding your own bugs.

You need a larger variety of diet. No one bug should comprise more than 20-30% of your animals total diet. Try horn horms, butter worms and silk worms. All soft bugs with lots of moisture.