shoebox is a bit on the small size
but yes, you can quite successfully keep a small colony of say just 8 or 10 adults. Do keep a few of the medium and smaller size ones as well.
You can also slow their reproduction by reducing temperature and food.
sounds like you need to take him to a vet
if you are having to force feed and his eyes aren't open, something is seriously wrong.
not sure why you jumped to the conclusion that vitamin A is the issue, but if that is indeed the problem you can provide via supplement (power or an oral solution...
agree. mealworms shouldn't form a major part of the diet
also, when was the last time you cleaned the bowl? can also try different colour and different size bowls.
agree - consider the site sponsors.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/index.php?page=sponsors
you may also find this list useful: https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/171-where-buy-feeders-online.html
I don't think its a problem that all the prey are getting the same thing - your layers mean you are changing it up. I think most of us do similar.
my base dry gutload for crickets and the different roaches is the same.
I have a different base dry gutload for the superworms and mealworms, but...
depends what size you want them to be before feeding off.
in my case, it takes about 6 months for the offspring to be what I consider a useful size.
For me its worth it. My chameleons enjoy them. The adult snails are near constantly laying eggs, and theyre are beyond easy to keep (so...
I feel very sorry for that chameleon. Hopefully this is just a troll thread and you really havent done this thing.
even humans can be raised to adult size on a terrible diet (ie mcdonalds) - that doesnt make it healthy or good.
its also a terrible waste of money, give how expensive those...
hydrotone / clay pellets mixed with perlite.
you'd have to provide all the nutrients via liquid.
Better to put something solid under the plant pots, and put the cages on wheels?
try changing up the way you offer the roaches and crickets, it may help.
you might also hold back on all the larva for a few weeks, to break the picky habit.
you might find these example and info useful:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs...on/food-diary/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs...4-feeders.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs...pplements.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/index2.html
A sample...
no they aren't better. in combination would be better, along with a few other choices. I think variety is best.
for a small/young chameleon, small crickets, small roaches, small butterworms, small silkworms, bean beetles, baby termites, fruit flies, small superworms, ...
Typically what I blog is not just directly copied word for word from someone else. My gutloads are my own creations. And I do cite when I direct quote anything not in the public domain /common knowledge / or anything that is someone else's opinion.
to be clear, I didn't also ask this person to...
I suggest you don't have a staple at all. Instead, aim for variety, having no one feeder prey type make up the bulk of the diet.
But a sample rotation might be:
day 1 - crickets (gutloaded and calcium dusted)
day 2 - larva day - a hornworm or a silkworm or two, plus a superworm or...
it depends. Where do you live? Where I live, the relative humidity without any intervention is about 40%+, so by hand misting once a day (twice for babies) and using a dripper there is plenty of moisture for the chameleons. They get most of their drinking water from the drippers.
If you live...
I use the original strength Repashy Calcium Plus. I mix it about 50-50 with Sticky Tongue Farms Mineral -O. It gets used once or twice a week. The rest of the time, if dusting is required at all, I just use the Mineral-O.
There is a lower potency Repashy C+ available. Id feel comfortable...