Your advise is needed
- Thread starter BigSlick
- Start date
sandrachameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
In addition to the detailed information I provided you previously, and the repetitions and clarifications thereafter, you may want to review this website:
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/ (most of the good stuff in within Dec 2007), and if your chameleon is female, this part of that site in particular:
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/ (most of the good stuff in within Dec 2007), and if your chameleon is female, this part of that site in particular:
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
It seems the picture I am trying to post is to large... Here is a link of the rear legs to see if you can give it a sex.... thanks
http://www.flickr.com/photos/azspotters/4285898125/in/set-72157623108103273/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/azspotters/4285898125/in/set-72157623108103273/
thealissa
New Member
In short, once she reaches 5-6 months old, if you're not going to breed her, it is advised that you feed her only every other day or two (or, like Pssh said, on a MWF schedule) and lower the temp's to the low 80's.
Also, at that age you should place a laying bin in her cage (and keep it there) just in case she produces a clutch of infertile eggs.
Also, at that age you should place a laying bin in her cage (and keep it there) just in case she produces a clutch of infertile eggs.
jojackson
New Member
It occurs to me that if your young lizard regurtitated a cricket, its possible that the crickets you are offering may be too big. Though the lizard may tackle them, it may not do much chewing, resulting in a cricket mess that just wont go down, hence regurtitation.
Though there are other issues also associated with regurtitation, I dont think they apply in this case.
Insects, as a general rule of thumb, are best, no larger than the gap between the lizards eyes. Worms are a different story as they are often eaten 'sphagetti' style, however use your best judgement. Soft types like silkworms and hornworms generally pose no problem, but superworms and mealworms are incased in chitin (fingernail like substance)
which can be difficult to digest if more than one or two are offered at any given feeding. These in particular are best offered perhaps twice a week at most. Feeding these when they are very pale (fresh moulted) and therefor soft and easier to digest is best.
Though there are other issues also associated with regurtitation, I dont think they apply in this case.
Insects, as a general rule of thumb, are best, no larger than the gap between the lizards eyes. Worms are a different story as they are often eaten 'sphagetti' style, however use your best judgement. Soft types like silkworms and hornworms generally pose no problem, but superworms and mealworms are incased in chitin (fingernail like substance)
which can be difficult to digest if more than one or two are offered at any given feeding. These in particular are best offered perhaps twice a week at most. Feeding these when they are very pale (fresh moulted) and therefor soft and easier to digest is best.
