Wye is my veild so small
- Thread starter Kaycool
- Start date
Kaycool
New Member
Ok thnx
Kaizen
Chameleon Enthusiast
Hey bud, there are several things that could be improved in your setup. I’m happy to help you here, and try to work with you and your means. If you’d like some one on one, please pm me.
Kaycool
New Member
How do I pm
Kaycool
New Member
Ok thnx
Here we go....First of all ASAP they should be separated. One or the other is likely to become ill and likely die if you keep them both together.
Feeding...it's important to feed them a variety of insects that you have taken good care of...so you need to know how to feed/gutload the insects. It's important to feed them early enough in the day that they can use the warm daytime temperatures to aid in their digestion. It's important to dust the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon. You can feed you chameleons crickets, roaches, locusts, silkworms, BSFL, hornworms, etc and once in a while superworms and waxworms. At this age they can be fed every two or three days.
Males can be fed enough that they don't get fat. With females you need to be careful not to over feed them. They will make huge clutches of eggs and develop health issues if you do and likely die eggbound.
Supplements...I use RepCal phosphorous free calcium powder dusted on the insects lighhtly at almost every feeding. Twice a month I use RepCal phos free calcium/D3 powder lightly instead of the calcium powder and twice a month I use Herptivite lightly instead of the calcium. You have to be very careful with D3 and vitamin A from sources other than beta carotene....because they can lead to overdoses and health issues.
Feeding/gutloading insects...you can feed/gutload crickets, locusts, superworms, roaches with dandelion greens, endive, escarole, kale, collards, turnip greens, carrots, sweet potatoes, sweet red peppers, zucchini, squash, and a VERY LITTLE BIT of fruit such as berries, pears, apples, melons. Other insects need their proper foods too.
Watering...you can mist the cages during the day and run a dripper. The dripper can be a deli cup with a tiny hole in the bottom of it so it drips at the rate of one or two drips per second. You can hand mist with a plant mister or set up a misting system that you can buy.
Lighting...I recommend that you use a reptisun 5.0 long linear tube light. For basking I use a regular household incandescent bulb of a wattage that gives you the right basking temperature in the cage. All lights should be on the lid of the cage. No light should be on at night.
Plants should all be real with veiled chameleons since they will likely chew on the leaves. Make sure they are nontoxic and well washed...both sides of the leaves.
Temperature...the basking temperature for the female should be in the low 80'sF and the males in the mid 80's.
Since you are still in school...you may want to let your parents read this too so they can help you with it.
I'm sure I've missed things but hopefully others will chime in here.
Feeding...it's important to feed them a variety of insects that you have taken good care of...so you need to know how to feed/gutload the insects. It's important to feed them early enough in the day that they can use the warm daytime temperatures to aid in their digestion. It's important to dust the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon. You can feed you chameleons crickets, roaches, locusts, silkworms, BSFL, hornworms, etc and once in a while superworms and waxworms. At this age they can be fed every two or three days.
Males can be fed enough that they don't get fat. With females you need to be careful not to over feed them. They will make huge clutches of eggs and develop health issues if you do and likely die eggbound.
Supplements...I use RepCal phosphorous free calcium powder dusted on the insects lighhtly at almost every feeding. Twice a month I use RepCal phos free calcium/D3 powder lightly instead of the calcium powder and twice a month I use Herptivite lightly instead of the calcium. You have to be very careful with D3 and vitamin A from sources other than beta carotene....because they can lead to overdoses and health issues.
Feeding/gutloading insects...you can feed/gutload crickets, locusts, superworms, roaches with dandelion greens, endive, escarole, kale, collards, turnip greens, carrots, sweet potatoes, sweet red peppers, zucchini, squash, and a VERY LITTLE BIT of fruit such as berries, pears, apples, melons. Other insects need their proper foods too.
Watering...you can mist the cages during the day and run a dripper. The dripper can be a deli cup with a tiny hole in the bottom of it so it drips at the rate of one or two drips per second. You can hand mist with a plant mister or set up a misting system that you can buy.
Lighting...I recommend that you use a reptisun 5.0 long linear tube light. For basking I use a regular household incandescent bulb of a wattage that gives you the right basking temperature in the cage. All lights should be on the lid of the cage. No light should be on at night.
Plants should all be real with veiled chameleons since they will likely chew on the leaves. Make sure they are nontoxic and well washed...both sides of the leaves.
Temperature...the basking temperature for the female should be in the low 80'sF and the males in the mid 80's.
Since you are still in school...you may want to let your parents read this too so they can help you with it.
I'm sure I've missed things but hopefully others will chime in here.
Kaizen
Chameleon Enthusiast
This is a great post to read with your folks.
Kaizen
Chameleon Enthusiast
No, they do better with a nightime drop even into the low 60’s
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Nope. Veileds can tolerate some signify that temp drops at night.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Stupid autocorrect.
