FaunaBgirl
New Member
As hard as I try, I am not able to make a temp for my guy above 76 and it's lows are at 70. Will he acclimatize or not?
Worried
- Thread starter FaunaBgirl
- Start date
Brad Ramsey
Retired Moderator
Are you referring to the basking area? 76 degrees is low for that area.
What wattage bulb are you using?
How far is the basking perch from the basking light?
How old is your veiled?
-Brad
What wattage bulb are you using?
How far is the basking perch from the basking light?
How old is your veiled?
-Brad
FaunaBgirl
New Member
4 month old veiled perches (His choice) either 4 inches to 6 to 8 inches from 5.0 UVA/UVB bulb only recently, as I was given the wrong kind of 100W bulb in the beginning. I have raised him from 1 month old.
Now he's not interested in eating and there is not fresh fecal matter at bottom of cage. Yesterday, I thought he was going to fall off his perch. The only thing I can think of that I may have done wrong, is either bathed him too soon and gave him a chill... or put too much water conditioner in his water one time recently.
Now he's not interested in eating and there is not fresh fecal matter at bottom of cage. Yesterday, I thought he was going to fall off his perch. The only thing I can think of that I may have done wrong, is either bathed him too soon and gave him a chill... or put too much water conditioner in his water one time recently.
Dave Weldon
Avid Member
Howdy,
Have you put back the "right kind of bulb" since you took away the wrong kind? You need some kind of incandescent bulb, usually between 50W-100W to make the correct level of heat at his basking area. You are looking for around 90F. You need this bulb in addition to the UVB/UVA 5.0 lamp.
Usually no water conditioner is ever needed for chameleons.
FaunaBgirl
New Member
Sorry, I do not know how to post a picture here. My guy is in my closet. I recently built him a huge new cage. The manzanita sticks are much bigger (more comfortable), but maybe he is adjusting to the grip? He can't wrap his hands around them all the way.
The pothos plant he had died, so I spray a towel that covers half the 4ft tall by 29inch in diameter, round cage, 3 times daily. He has two water drippers and a infrared bulb for at night. But we turn it off around midnight. Does he need a 5.0 AND a basking bulb? I've been using the infrared as a day basking bulb too, now that the 100W is gone.
I know he needs heat to digest. But he's looking thinner. He is about 8 or 9 inches long, tail extended. His eyes look good. I am somewhat colorblind, but fear he looks a little yellow sometimes? I thought I saw the inside of his mouth looking a little pale/white.
I gave him some pedialite yesterday. He drank a little... then decided the plastic syringe was his enemy and waged war on it. He bit and pulled at it. Now when he sees it he goes crazy. The pedialite was warmed and he really seemed to enjoy it. Don't know why he went rabid on it?
Hope this helps. He just turns 4 months today.
The pothos plant he had died, so I spray a towel that covers half the 4ft tall by 29inch in diameter, round cage, 3 times daily. He has two water drippers and a infrared bulb for at night. But we turn it off around midnight. Does he need a 5.0 AND a basking bulb? I've been using the infrared as a day basking bulb too, now that the 100W is gone.
I know he needs heat to digest. But he's looking thinner. He is about 8 or 9 inches long, tail extended. His eyes look good. I am somewhat colorblind, but fear he looks a little yellow sometimes? I thought I saw the inside of his mouth looking a little pale/white.
I gave him some pedialite yesterday. He drank a little... then decided the plastic syringe was his enemy and waged war on it. He bit and pulled at it. Now when he sees it he goes crazy. The pedialite was warmed and he really seemed to enjoy it. Don't know why he went rabid on it?
Hope this helps. He just turns 4 months today.
Brad Ramsey
Retired Moderator
Showing yellow is not bad....he is growing up and getting his colors. You really need that basking light. Ditch the red bulb! 10 to 20 degrees cooler at night for optimal health is required. No night time heat, and midnight is way to late for any sort of light to be on him. The 5.0 bulb does not really provide much heat. Aim your basking bulb at one corner near the top of the enclosure with a nearby perch. Do not put the fixture in the enclosure (I know, but some people need really specific instructions). Record temp in this area and adjust the position of the perch/ wattage of the bulb accordingly. He needs 85-90 degrees at this age on the basking perch, and you need to get some more plants!
Also, I never use water conditioner. Water is not treated like it used to be (used to have higher chemical concentration) and any type of aeration ie: misting/dripping expels most of the chlorine.
-Brad
Also, I never use water conditioner. Water is not treated like it used to be (used to have higher chemical concentration) and any type of aeration ie: misting/dripping expels most of the chlorine.
-Brad
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Here's what I do...
I have a regular household incandescent bulb in a metal hood with a ceramic socket. The wattage I select by how hot it makes the basking area....which for a young veiled I want in the low to mid 80's. I place this light at one side of the cage so that other areas of the cage can be cooler so the chameleon can select the temperature it wants to be at.
Chameleons need to be able to get warm in order to digest their food properly (which you said you know). If the food moves through them too slowly it might cause constipation/impaction. It also limits nutrient absorption.
I'm not a fan of infrared bulbs because I don't think the chameleons recognize them as a source of light and may not bask. Temperatures at night can drop down as low as the high 60's F...so usually no heat is needed at night.
I use a UVB tube light (usually the Repti-sun 5.0). Getting the chameleon into direct sunlight is better, but I live in a cold climate and can't usually. The light from the UVB tube or the sunlight should not pass through glass.
I mist the cage a couple of times a day and once the chameleon is big enough that the drops of water won't drown it, I use a dripper. I don't use cold water for either.
I gutload my crickets (and other insects) with a nutritional diet. For crickets I use a wide variety of greens (dandelion greens, kale, collards, endive, ROMAINE lettuce, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, white potato, sweet red pepper, celery leaves, zucchini, etc.). Insects should also be of appropriate size for the chameleon.
I dust the insects at most feedings with a phosphorous-free calcium powder before giving them to the chameleons. Most insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos...so this helps to make up for it.
I also dust with a vitamin powder twice a month. I use one that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene won't build up in the system but preformed vitamin A will. There is some controversy about chameleons needing preformed. Also, vitamin A is somewhat antagonistic to vitamin D3, so there needs to be a balance between the two.
Since my chameleons only get UVB from a tube light, I dust with D3/calcium lightly twice a month. UVB is needed to produce D3 which allows the chameleon to use the calcium in its diet.
Veileds are omnivores, so any plants used in the cage should be well-washed (both sides of the leaves) and non-toxic. You can give your veiled a "salad" using the greens and veggies (except for the white potato) listed in the gutload...along with a little fruit (apple, pear, melon, berries, etc.)
Keeping my veileds as above, they live long healthy lives, produce healthy babies that also live long healthy lives.
If you haven't been providing the right temperatures, UVB light, gutloaded insects that are supplemented, its possible/likely for your chameleon to develop MBD (metabolic bone disease).
Also...I use no substrate for arboreal chameleons. Some contain toxins and others can cause impaction...so I have found that its easier just not to use any.
Hope you can get him back on track quickly. Perhaps a visit to the vets will help?
I have a regular household incandescent bulb in a metal hood with a ceramic socket. The wattage I select by how hot it makes the basking area....which for a young veiled I want in the low to mid 80's. I place this light at one side of the cage so that other areas of the cage can be cooler so the chameleon can select the temperature it wants to be at.
Chameleons need to be able to get warm in order to digest their food properly (which you said you know). If the food moves through them too slowly it might cause constipation/impaction. It also limits nutrient absorption.
I'm not a fan of infrared bulbs because I don't think the chameleons recognize them as a source of light and may not bask. Temperatures at night can drop down as low as the high 60's F...so usually no heat is needed at night.
I use a UVB tube light (usually the Repti-sun 5.0). Getting the chameleon into direct sunlight is better, but I live in a cold climate and can't usually. The light from the UVB tube or the sunlight should not pass through glass.
I mist the cage a couple of times a day and once the chameleon is big enough that the drops of water won't drown it, I use a dripper. I don't use cold water for either.
I gutload my crickets (and other insects) with a nutritional diet. For crickets I use a wide variety of greens (dandelion greens, kale, collards, endive, ROMAINE lettuce, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, white potato, sweet red pepper, celery leaves, zucchini, etc.). Insects should also be of appropriate size for the chameleon.
I dust the insects at most feedings with a phosphorous-free calcium powder before giving them to the chameleons. Most insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos...so this helps to make up for it.
I also dust with a vitamin powder twice a month. I use one that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene won't build up in the system but preformed vitamin A will. There is some controversy about chameleons needing preformed. Also, vitamin A is somewhat antagonistic to vitamin D3, so there needs to be a balance between the two.
Since my chameleons only get UVB from a tube light, I dust with D3/calcium lightly twice a month. UVB is needed to produce D3 which allows the chameleon to use the calcium in its diet.
Veileds are omnivores, so any plants used in the cage should be well-washed (both sides of the leaves) and non-toxic. You can give your veiled a "salad" using the greens and veggies (except for the white potato) listed in the gutload...along with a little fruit (apple, pear, melon, berries, etc.)
Keeping my veileds as above, they live long healthy lives, produce healthy babies that also live long healthy lives.
If you haven't been providing the right temperatures, UVB light, gutloaded insects that are supplemented, its possible/likely for your chameleon to develop MBD (metabolic bone disease).
Also...I use no substrate for arboreal chameleons. Some contain toxins and others can cause impaction...so I have found that its easier just not to use any.
Hope you can get him back on track quickly. Perhaps a visit to the vets will help?
FaunaBgirl
New Member
Yes... bulb has been replaced. Now he has 3 bulbs. UVA/B, 100W basking and infrared for at night for heat. Misting is 2 to 3 time religiously per day and one at night when he is sleeping (always with hot water).
His crickets are dusted with Chameleon dust, Sandfire Super Foods. His fecal matter has been superb in consistancy and color. (and stench, lol)
His cage is cleaned daily, with two drips for water going in two parts of the cage.
However, at this time, he has no live plant. His pothos died down, I'm re-raising it now, but it takes time. I cannot find a non pesticided plant for him, so he has two silk plants he hangs in and on. I'm lacking a good thermometer/humidity. The one I bought at the reptile fair doesn't seem to work. The ambient temp is goiing as low as 70 to 73 at night when the lights are off. I've been leaving the infrared on until midnight. Maybe I could leave it on all night? Or is that too much bulb heat for his skin?
I think my fear is, that the ambient temp at 70 for those hours in the night is the cause? Too much fluctuation has me concerned as well. I'm in the Bay Area and the weather has been wacky... and how my apartment handles it is even wackier.
His crickets are dusted with Chameleon dust, Sandfire Super Foods. His fecal matter has been superb in consistancy and color. (and stench, lol)
His cage is cleaned daily, with two drips for water going in two parts of the cage.
However, at this time, he has no live plant. His pothos died down, I'm re-raising it now, but it takes time. I cannot find a non pesticided plant for him, so he has two silk plants he hangs in and on. I'm lacking a good thermometer/humidity. The one I bought at the reptile fair doesn't seem to work. The ambient temp is goiing as low as 70 to 73 at night when the lights are off. I've been leaving the infrared on until midnight. Maybe I could leave it on all night? Or is that too much bulb heat for his skin?
I think my fear is, that the ambient temp at 70 for those hours in the night is the cause? Too much fluctuation has me concerned as well. I'm in the Bay Area and the weather has been wacky... and how my apartment handles it is even wackier.
FaunaBgirl
New Member
Oh yeah... and when I go pick up his crickets, I bring a feast of carrots, greens, flukers water gel and gut load. I make sure the little crickets start eating right away and are fattened up for a few days before he gets them by having rotating bins of them. I had an escapee, chase off a roommate at 5:30 in the morning with it's all night, incessant chirping! Life's been tough. lol
FaunaBgirl
New Member
ok... he ate a few crickets, (breakfast) and there is now fecal matter. But it's only the bright white part.
Brad Ramsey
Retired Moderator
65 to 68 degrees at night!
No heat is required after lights out. Veileds NEED a dramatic night time drop in temperature.
I would take the red light out of the equation all together.
Night time temp of 70 degrees is too warm in my opinion.
Also, I wouldn't mist at night. If you're doing it after dark, you're disturbing his sleep and possibly making him too cold. They like to bask after misting to warm up and he can't do that asleep in the dark.
-Brad
No heat is required after lights out. Veileds NEED a dramatic night time drop in temperature.
I would take the red light out of the equation all together.
Night time temp of 70 degrees is too warm in my opinion.
Also, I wouldn't mist at night. If you're doing it after dark, you're disturbing his sleep and possibly making him too cold. They like to bask after misting to warm up and he can't do that asleep in the dark.
-Brad
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FaunaBgirl
New Member
Thank you, Kenyonga,
You gave me some more feeding ideas, as well as clearified my bulb queery. I would be very surprized if Fractal got MBD as I have been religious with his sunlight and dusted crickets. Some of the other vitamins you mentioned, I will look into. As I do extensive gut feeding, I thought I had that covered. Thanks.
What is the life expectancy of your Chams? Are you living in the UK. I lived there for a few years and know the climate well. So if you say my guy can take the low temps at night, you have just made my day. I've been miserable in this heat, when I am acclimatised to much colder temps. So to be clear on this. Can I have my ambient temp in the low 70's (even 68 degrees) if my basking temp is appropriate?
You gave me some more feeding ideas, as well as clearified my bulb queery. I would be very surprized if Fractal got MBD as I have been religious with his sunlight and dusted crickets. Some of the other vitamins you mentioned, I will look into. As I do extensive gut feeding, I thought I had that covered. Thanks.
What is the life expectancy of your Chams? Are you living in the UK. I lived there for a few years and know the climate well. So if you say my guy can take the low temps at night, you have just made my day. I've been miserable in this heat, when I am acclimatised to much colder temps. So to be clear on this. Can I have my ambient temp in the low 70's (even 68 degrees) if my basking temp is appropriate?
You said.."there is now fecal matter. But it's only the bright white part"...there should be poop too. Hopefully the poop will come soon. If it doesn't then you should likely take your chameleon to the vets to see if he is impacted.
You said..."Some of the other vitamins you mentioned, I will look into. As I do extensive gut feeding, I thought I had that covered"...you may very well have it covered. I only dust lightly a couple of times a month with vitamins to ensure that I didn't miss anything in the gutload while trying to make sure that I don't overdo it.
You said...."What is the life expectancy of your Chams?"...my veiled females usually live to be 6+ years old and the males even older.
You asked ..."Are you living in the UK. I lived there for a few years and know the climate well"...I live in Canada.
You said..."So if you say my guy can take the low temps at night, you have just made my day"...at night the room where my veileds are kept goes down to about 20C (about 68F)...once in a while it even gets a couple of degrees lower. Hope you will enjoy the cooler temperatures at night too!
You said..."Some of the other vitamins you mentioned, I will look into. As I do extensive gut feeding, I thought I had that covered"...you may very well have it covered. I only dust lightly a couple of times a month with vitamins to ensure that I didn't miss anything in the gutload while trying to make sure that I don't overdo it.
You said...."What is the life expectancy of your Chams?"...my veiled females usually live to be 6+ years old and the males even older.
You asked ..."Are you living in the UK. I lived there for a few years and know the climate well"...I live in Canada.
You said..."So if you say my guy can take the low temps at night, you have just made my day"...at night the room where my veileds are kept goes down to about 20C (about 68F)...once in a while it even gets a couple of degrees lower. Hope you will enjoy the cooler temperatures at night too!
FaunaBgirl
New Member
I can't thank all of you enough. Each with really good information. Why did I think that a 10 degree fluctuation was a killer thing? I'm so happy to be able to turn the heat off tonight and sleep probably better than I have in 3 months!
Anyway... Thank you all... I'll let you know how it goes.
Anyway... Thank you all... I'll let you know how it goes.
