I see several things you need to check or change.
First, when you first get a new cham they are stressed from the move and don't have a sense of their new territory. Chams are territorial, so once they settle in, they tend to resent YOU more when you invade their space. If she's a juvenile, she's probably reaching that difficult "teen" age when hormones are starting to kick in. Many chams get touchy for a while.
The "orange gutload" is not very complete. It may be easy, but won't provide your cham with good nutrition over time. There are good commercial gutloads available...I like Cricket Crack, available from Tiki Tiki Reptiles, a forum sponsor. Check the ingredients and you'll see what you are missing.
You can overdo the calcium dusting if it's the wrong type. Dust with a plain calcium (no vitamin D-3) very lightly every other day, use a calcium that does have added D-3 once a week, and dust with a herp vitamin dust once a month.
Any cham can carry parasites regardless where the feeder insects come from (wild or not they all have some). They are so common you'll probably never see a cham without any. If her parasite load is light, no problem. You should take a fecal sample to a vet to test for parasites so you'll know what she does have and at what level.
The lights are ALWAYS on?? You should be turning off all lights at night. Chams need at least a 10 degree drop in temp at night, and they have full color vision so any visible light will keep them awake. If your room stays above 60 at night you don't need the heat either. The safest UVB light most of us use is the ReptiSun 5.0 and change it at 6 months. You need to know the type of UV light you have! It is really important! Check the tube for information on the type. You can use any regular incandescent house light bulb for basking. Doesn't need to be a fancy herp heat light.
You need to know the temperatures and humidity level in the cage! Don't guess and don't assume she is "comfortable" without this specific information. Chams are experts at hiding their problems and discomfort until they are really in trouble. Get a infrared temp gun ($30 from a place like ProExotics...really a great thing that lets you measure the surface temp of anything you point it at...like your cham, the basking perch, a cooler area of the cage). Get a humidity gauge or hygrometer to keep track of the cage humidity. This is also very important and you can't guess just by looking.
Live plants are usually a better idea than fakes. They help maintain humidity, help with air quality, provide better places for her to hide, etc. Fakes aren't terrible and you can leave them in the cage, but most of us need the live plants.
