What is wrong with flukers gut load?

gpg1022

New Member
Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - I have a male veiled chameleon and he is about a month old and i have had him for 3 weeks
* Handling - I have not handled him yet, but he immediately will eat anything moving from my hand without hesitation
* Feeding -I feed him as much as he will eat which mainly consists of crickets, which i used to gut load them with carrots and lettuce but now i feed them flukers gut load. For a couple weeks i fed him around 3-4 meal worms a day and 1 wax worm a day or every other day. I am getting more meal worms today but mine always seem to die. What temperature should i keep the meal worms at? I once fed him a moth i caught and one of the beetles that the meal worms turn in to
* Supplements - I use a spray on calcium with d3 which i use once a month. I dust with reptivite without d3 multivitamin once a week and dust with calcium everyday on most of the feeders.
* Watering - I use a little dripper, which is always running and i mist daily, but i try not to mist to much because i have substrate on the bottom which i am going to get rid of as soon as he is ready to leave his cage. The lower part of the substrate is wet always but i have been draining the majority of the water lately. The humidity is around 40% daily
* Fecal Description - It is dark brownish blackish with a white tip
*

Cage Info:

* Cage Type - My cage has screen on the sides and on the top but the front back and bottom are glass
* Lighting - I use a 5.0 coiled UVB light which rests on top of his cage and he gets within 3 inches to the bulb is that to close? and i have a small heating bulb that is abotu a foot away from the cage
* Temperature - The basking spot is about 83-85 degrees and there are plenty of spots for him to get as close to or as far from the basking spot as possible. At night it gets down to the mid sixties
* Humidity - Humidity is 40% 60% after misting
* Plants - I have a live aluminum plant
* Placement - My cage is in my room. I am the only one who goes in there so during the school day he has a lot of peace and quiet and his cage is sitting on my desk which when i sit he is a little bit above my head
* Location - I live in TN

I do not understand what is wrong with gut loading with Flukers dry gut load. It says it is high in calcium and other nutrients, yet i have read several posts about how bad of a gutload it is
 
I think maybe it's because it looks alot like Chicken feed with a little calcium thrown in.
Have you worked with chameleons before, or is this your first? I assume you must have experience getting a week old veil. I'm not sure if they have fixed the coil blub issues yet. But if your chameleon is happy and healthy after 3 weeks, sounds like it's okay, and not cooking the little guy or girl.
 
I do not understand what is wrong with gut loading with Flukers dry gut load. It says it is high in calcium and other nutrients, yet i have read several posts about how bad of a gutload it is


High in calcium isn't bad, but there are a lot more nutrients needed in addition. Most of us make our own gutload from fresh ingredients and don't rely on mass packaged products that are not designed specifically for chams. Check the ingredients of the gutload. I haven't used commercial gutloads in many years so don't know the current list. Chances are it contains a bunch of grain byproducts and not a whole lot else. Also, any vitamins a mass produced gutload contains have been sitting for quite a while. While it may not kill your cham, you should not expect that it will meet all your feeders' or the cham's nutritional needs without other foods like fresh citrus, bee pollen, dark leafy greens...

BTW, don't feed too many mealworms. They are not very nutritious and high in chitin which is harder for chams to digest.
 
The reason you've been reading not to use that product is because its just not the best option. Its okay as a now and then substitute if youre too pressed for time one day to do better. But really Most store-bought "gutoads" are, in my opinion, simply inadequate for continued use. If you want a healthy animal, choose appropriate fresh fruits and vegetables (which doesnt mean lettuce) and the best dry gutload options. Please also consider increasing the variety of prey you are offering. Crickets with a few mealworms and, worse waxworms, is really not a good enough selection.

You may find these blog entries helpful:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/74-feeders.html
 
My cham really loved the hornworms I got him, I wish I had it on video because he basically ran(in his fasion) up to it and eye balled it real good and close as if to be thinking ( holy cow look at this !!!!) He also enjoys food that wiggles and fights back a bit, Ive been considering pinky mice when he get a touch bigger, but Im gonna do more research on it. Anyone on here have experience feeding pinky or other different foods?
Heres what I usually feed
Mainly superworms , split up with crickets, mealys, wax, and once in a while I get him silkworms and hornworms. Silkys he ate but wasnt special to him like the hornworms were. Plus with the big cage I can let the hornworms roam free and they climb around his trees without trying to escape. crickets i have to de-leg the backs so they dont jump out of his cup. Anyone use pro-biotics? Ive read lots of good stuff ect but my cham is strong and healthy, as his killer grip can attest.
 
I do not understand what is wrong with gut loading with Flukers dry gut load. It says it is high in calcium and other nutrients, yet i have read several posts about how bad of a gutload it is

According to the results of a study published in the Journal of Herpetological Medicine and Surgery in 2005, crickets fed the Fluker's High-Calcium Cricket Feed "contained no more calcium than those fed an unfortified diet and would likely be considered calcium deficient when used as food for insectivorous reptiles" (Finke et al. 2005).

Chris
 
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