Waterfall and dehydrated crickets

ML20

New Member
Hi so I recently removed the waterfall from my chameleons enclosure because I realized it's actually bad for his health. I got it off of Amazon and it came with a water filter but I'm still not sure it's healthy. I was wondering what would be a better solution to the water problem? I'm not sure he's gotten down the idea of the misting on the plants. I also was wondering if it's ok for him to eat dehydrated crickets just until I get his new shipment of live ones?
 
Last edited:

Serbianchameleon

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi so I recently removed the waterfall from my chameleons enclosure because I realized it's actually bad for his health. I got it off of Amazon and it came with a water filter but I'm still not sure it's healthy. I was wondering what would be a better solution to the water problem? I'm not sure he's gotten down the idea of the misting on the plants. I also was wondering if it's ok for him to eat dehydrated crickets just until I get his new shipment of live ones?
Can you post a photo of your chameleons poop and his eyes? He knows that he should drink water from leaves. How do you mean dehydrated crickets, you mean not gutloaded?
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
I would ere away from the dehydrated crickets if possible, as you don’t know what they were fed or how they were killed. Are you able to get your hands on any of these other feeders in the meantime?
 

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ML20

New Member
I would ere away from the dehydrated crickets if possible, as you don’t know what they were fed or how they were killed. Are you able to get your hands on any of these other feeders in the meantime?
I will have to go get some I still have some food for him as of now but I have to travel kind of far or wait for a shipment to come in whenever he runs out so I will have to do this before he does! Out of curiosity, do you happen to know why mealworms are not recommended?
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
I will have to go get some I still have some food for him as of now but I have to travel kind of far or wait for a shipment to come in whenever he runs out so I will have to do this before he does! Out of curiosity, do you happen to know why mealworms are not recommended?
There are much healthier options, and they aren’t easy to digest either. I’d also fill out the form (in as much detail as possible, including pics) that @CasqueAbove linked as well, to make sure your husbandry is at 100%!
 

ML20

New Member
You should fill out the questions at https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/how-to-ask-for-help.66/
It sounds like you may need some adjustments. Dehydrated crickets are probably not bad, but should be unnecessary, depending on age and current health.
Your Chameleon - a veiled, male, not sure how old he is , I got him from petsmart while he was a baby still. I've had him for about 3 months.
Handling - I only handle him when I clean his terrarium.
Feeding - I am feeding him crickets. I feed him about 10-20 a day. I feed him in the morning and at night. I've been using flukers cricket water.
Supplements - I'm using flukers repta calcium with d3 and it's phosphorus free. I use it about 1 to 2 times a week, however it says for daily use.
Watering - I was spraying before but I noticed he was dehydrated by looking at his urates. I got him a waterfall but just removed it. I've never seen him drink but I noticed his urates got better, however I still sprayed his cage about 2 times a day while the waterfall was in it.
Fecal Description - his fecal droppings have been a dark brown, black color and have been long with white urates. He has not yet been tested for parasites.
History - he's already shedded once since I got him.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - I have a 30 gallon glass/screen cage
Lighting - I have two 5.5 deep dome lamps. One has a 13 watt uvb bulb and the other has a 60 watt daytime blue heat bulb. His lights go on at 9:00 am and off at 9:00 pm.
Temperature - his temp ranges from 80-90. Lowest overnight temp is 60. I have a thermostat with humidity and faranheit levels.
Humidity - the humidity ranges from 50-70 during the day. I create and maintain these levels by misting his cage. I have a thermometer.
Plants - don't have any live plants yet. I'm propogating one right now because it was grown with pesticides. Trying to find a good place to order some reptile friendly live plants in the meantime.
Placement - my cage is located in my bedroom. It is a low traffic area. The top of the cage is probably around 5'0 to the ground
Location - I'm located in Oklahoma

Current Problem - concerned about finding a way to water him while I am not home also what to feed him if I ever run out of food before I can get him more live insects.
 

CasqueAbove

Chameleon Enthusiast
I will put mine in blue
Your Chameleon - a veiled, male, not sure how old he is , I got him from petsmart while he was a baby still. I've had him for about 3 months. I would guess 5-7 months
Handling - I only handle him when I clean his terrarium.
Feeding - I am feeding him crickets. I feed him about 10-20 a day. I feed him in the morning and at night. I've been using flukers cricket water. It will be time to slow down the feedings. Go to every other day for a week, then each week cut back on number of feeders by 1 till you get to about 5lg 4 days a week.
Supplements - I'm using flukers repta calcium with d3 and it's phosphorus free. I use it about 1 to 2 times a week, however it says for daily use. This needs to be adjusted. D3 should be once every other week with the alternate week a multivitamin. Ca no D3 at every other feeding.
Watering - I was spraying before but I noticed he was dehydrated by looking at his urates. I got him a waterfall but just removed it. I've never seen him drink but I noticed his urates got better, however I still sprayed his cage about 2 times a day while the waterfall was in it. Hydration is a bigger issue. In short Mist morning and evening. Fog and temps below 70 at night prefer 65. There is more on my site.
https://caskabove.com/getting-started

Fecal Description - his fecal droppings have been a dark brown, black color and have been long with white urates. He has not yet been tested for parasites.
History - he's already shedded once since I got him. Many suggest an parasite test. You vet may take just a sample. If he is gaining weight it is not as urgent. And you have had him isolated.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - I have a 30 gallon glass/screen cage HE will out grow this if it is not already too small. A min size is 24x24x48 I have links to the various cage options on mi site as well, including some affordable ones.
Lighting - I have two 5.5 deep dome lamps. One has a 13 watt uvb bulb and the other has a 60 watt daytime blue heat bulb. His lights go on at 9:00 am and off at 9:00 pm. This unfortunately won't due. You can use for heat, but will need a 24in min T5HO 6% or 5.0 depending on brand.
Temperature - his temp ranges from 80-90. Lowest overnight temp is 60. I have a thermostat with humidity and Fahrenheit levels. 90 is too hot. especially for a baby. Max basking should be 82 with ambient of low to mid 70s. If night is hitting 60-65 that is great. They are reaqly a montain species and like it cooler.
Humidity - the humidity ranges from 50-70 during the day. I create and maintain these levels by misting his cage. I have a thermometer. They actually need to dry out during the day even down to 20 - 30% is ok. The night is different. This is where we want 100% humidity close as we can. Chameleons are fog drinkers in the wild. So providing cooled temps ant high humidity at night they stay hydrated easier.
Plants - don't have any live plants yet. I'm propogating one right now because it was grown with pesticides. Trying to find a good place to order some reptile friendly live plants in the meantime. Understood. This is the season to hit the big box stores. Just wash them good. Sometimes it is cheaper to buy one large plant and split it up.
Placement - my cage is located in my bedroom. It is a low traffic area. The top of the cage is probably around 5'0 to the ground
Location - I'm located in Oklahoma

Current Problem - concerned about finding a way to water him while I am not home also what to feed him if I ever run out of food before I can get him more live insects.
So we addressed the watering issue. They really don't know what standing water is. Remember their life would be spent 20 to 30 feet up in a tree. If healthy and well fed periods of one week with out food would be fine.

The big trick is starting them right and getting their parameters right. Then for short periods they are very hardy. I just took 6 6-7 month old babies to a show. Left them in the suburban over night 52 degrees. Drove an hour carried them around got set up. Had them out ,and I never hold them, on a natural display people looking taking pictures pointing. Pack up from show got home and had to catch up on other things so they sat in the living room in their cages for three days and were only feed twice that week. They did not blink an eye. But the had been raised individually in cages and measured vitamins feeding and UV. So they can be very resilient if properly cared for.
 

ML20

New Member
I will put mine in blue
Your Chameleon - a veiled, male, not sure how old he is , I got him from petsmart while he was a baby still. I've had him for about 3 months. I would guess 5-7 months
Handling - I only handle him when I clean his terrarium.
Feeding - I am feeding him crickets. I feed him about 10-20 a day. I feed him in the morning and at night. I've been using flukers cricket water. It will be time to slow down the feedings. Go to every other day for a week, then each week cut back on number of feeders by 1 till you get to about 5lg 4 days a week.
Supplements - I'm using flukers repta calcium with d3 and it's phosphorus free. I use it about 1 to 2 times a week, however it says for daily use. This needs to be adjusted. D3 should be once every other week with the alternate week a multivitamin. Ca no D3 at every other feeding.
Watering - I was spraying before but I noticed he was dehydrated by looking at his urates. I got him a waterfall but just removed it. I've never seen him drink but I noticed his urates got better, however I still sprayed his cage about 2 times a day while the waterfall was in it. Hydration is a bigger issue. In short Mist morning and evening. Fog and temps below 70 at night prefer 65. There is more on my site.
https://caskabove.com/getting-started

Fecal Description - his fecal droppings have been a dark brown, black color and have been long with white urates. He has not yet been tested for parasites.
History - he's already shedded once since I got him. Many suggest an parasite test. You vet may take just a sample. If he is gaining weight it is not as urgent. And you have had him isolated.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - I have a 30 gallon glass/screen cage HE will out grow this if it is not already too small. A min size is 24x24x48 I have links to the various cage options on mi site as well, including some affordable ones.
Lighting - I have two 5.5 deep dome lamps. One has a 13 watt uvb bulb and the other has a 60 watt daytime blue heat bulb. His lights go on at 9:00 am and off at 9:00 pm. This unfortunately won't due. You can use for heat, but will need a 24in min T5HO 6% or 5.0 depending on brand.
Temperature - his temp ranges from 80-90. Lowest overnight temp is 60. I have a thermostat with humidity and Fahrenheit levels. 90 is too hot. especially for a baby. Max basking should be 82 with ambient of low to mid 70s. If night is hitting 60-65 that is great. They are reaqly a montain species and like it cooler.
Humidity - the humidity ranges from 50-70 during the day. I create and maintain these levels by misting his cage. I have a thermometer. They actually need to dry out during the day even down to 20 - 30% is ok. The night is different. This is where we want 100% humidity close as we can. Chameleons are fog drinkers in the wild. So providing cooled temps ant high humidity at night they stay hydrated easier.
Plants - don't have any live plants yet. I'm propogating one right now because it was grown with pesticides. Trying to find a good place to order some reptile friendly live plants in the meantime. Understood. This is the season to hit the big box stores. Just wash them good. Sometimes it is cheaper to buy one large plant and split it up.
Placement - my cage is located in my bedroom. It is a low traffic area. The top of the cage is probably around 5'0 to the ground
Location - I'm located in Oklahoma

Current Problem - concerned about finding a way to water him while I am not home also what to feed him if I ever run out of food before I can get him more live insects.
So we addressed the watering issue. They really don't know what standing water is. Remember their life would be spent 20 to 30 feet up in a tree. If healthy and well fed periods of one week with out food would be fine.

The big trick is starting them right and getting their parameters right. Then for short periods they are very hardy. I just took 6 6-7 month old babies to a show. Left them in the suburban over night 52 degrees. Drove an hour carried them around got set up. Had them out ,and I never hold them, on a natural display people looking taking pictures pointing. Pack up from show got home and had to catch up on other things so they sat in the living room in their cages for three days and were only feed twice that week. They did not blink an eye. But the had been raised individually in cages and measured vitamins feeding and UV. So they can be very resilient if properly cared for.
I checked out your site and noticed the DIY terrariums for sale on ebay. Do you reccomend those? Have you heard anything negative about them?
 

Klyde O'Scope

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi so I recently removed the waterfall from my chameleons enclosure because I realized it's actually bad for his health. I got it off of Amazon and it came with a water filter but I'm still not sure it's healthy. I was wondering what would be a better solution to the water problem? I'm not sure he's gotten down the idea of the misting on the plants.
Drinking from droplets off of plants should be instinctive. You may not see him drink this way (some are shy drinkers) but the proof will be in his 💩.

I also was wondering if it's ok for him to eat dehydrated crickets just until I get his new shipment of live ones?
I think it's OK to eat them short term; I just don't know if he will eat them. Both my lizards have very strong feeder responses; if it's not moving/wiggling, they won't eat it. 🤷‍♂️

Do you have any kind of pet supply you can get to? Most—if they carry reptile supplies—carry various feeder insects in little cups—or crickets in bulk (big box pet chains). I usually keep some around for emergencies, e.g. a feeder shipment is late or gets lost. They're not great, and usually grossly overpriced, but better than nothing, IMO.
 

CasqueAbove

Chameleon Enthusiast
I checked out your site and noticed the DIY terrariums for sale on ebay. Do you reccomend those? Have you heard anything negative about them?
The wors I have heard is that the backing can peel and they can bee tricky to put together. So I would say good for the price! I think they are good quality cages. You save because it is DIY to me it is worth saving $50 that is a T5 UVB fixture and bulb which is more important.
 
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