wanna make sure hes doing ok

J

JebBrown

New Member
new to chameleon forums, so hello everyone, i have a veiled male 9 months old ive had him for about 4-6 days i think and i have been in his cage a little to much taking out, re-arranging and adding plants etc, i have finally finished with my setup which includes 9 vines one fake hanging plant. 1 fake plant about 2 feet hight and another that is 4 feet high, 24 inch uva uvb the percentages are 30% and 5% im not sure which is uva or ubv but it came in the green box from the pet store they said it was the one i needed. i also got the repti fogger as well as the 150watt bulb. enclosure is a terrairum with metal mesh on the tops 8 inches of the sides and some on the bottom of the front with a screen top. it is 4 ft tall 4 foot wide 2 ft deep. with all the moving around and such would it cause my chameleon great stress. the temp is about 80-90 degree with humidity about 60-70%. since ive been moving things in and out and having him out of cage while i set up the new one i mentioned above, he has had his eyes closed and tail curled alot more. should i be concerned or just let him be for a while and let him get used to his new surroundings? anything helps. thanks
 
Hey Jeb, if you can fill this out it will provide all the info we need to help you :)

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

I think your guy just needs to get use to his new environment personally since its only been 4-6 days. But fill out the form so that we can get all of the info :)
 
Hi and welcome to the forum!! :) Looking over your info..I think there might be some adjustments that need to made. Your cham shouldn't be hanging out with his eyes closed unless he is sleeping at night. I'm thinking it might be the lighting is too strong for his eyes and his enclosure is too hot 150watts is much to hot for a cham. Unfortunately, many pet stores (not all) aren't that familiar with the husbandry of chams. It sounds like they supplied lighting for a desert type lizard such as a bearded dragon. Chams are tropical and need very different lighting or they can get eye problems and Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) which is a tragic deformity of their bones. Exactly what kind of bulbs and brand do you have? Is it the compact all in one type UVA/UVB bulb? If so you need to return it for a Reptisun 5.0 UVB linear style tube florescent bulb that you put in a light strip or hood. Also the 150 watt is much too strong. Replace that with a regular incandescent house hold light bulb of 40-75 watts to bring the basking spot to a temp of 80-85 degrees Max.
Also, it would help if we saw pics of your cham and setup so we can nip any other problems in the bud before your chams health is effected :)

Natalie
 
I agree with Jamelon, that it would be really good for you to fill out the how to ask for help form. It takes a little time but it's worth it! That way we can check out your set up, temps, feeding, lighting and other things that will aid in the health of your cham.Chams are fragile and little tweaks here and there can really make the difference between a happy, healthy cham or a sick cham and vet bills :)
 
JaxyGirl said:
Hi and welcome to the forum!! :) Looking over your info..I think there might be some adjustments that need to made. Your cham shouldn't be hanging out with his eyes closed unless he is sleeping at night. I'm thinking it might be the lighting is too strong for his eyes and his enclosure is too hot 150watts is much to hot for a cham. Unfortunately, many pet stores (not all) aren't that familiar with the husbandry of chams. It sounds like they supplied lighting for a desert type lizard such as a bearded dragon. Chams are tropical and need very different lighting or they can get eye problems and Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) which is a tragic deformity of their bones. Exactly what kind of bulbs and brand do you have? Is it the compact all in one type UVA/UVB bulb? If so you need to return it for a Reptisun 5.0 UVB linear style tube florescent bulb that you put in a light strip or hood. Also the 150 watt is much too strong. Replace that with a regular incandescent house hold light bulb of 40-75 watts to bring the basking spot to a temp of 80-85 degrees Max.
Also, it would help if we saw pics of your cham and setup so we can nip any other problems in the bud before your chams health is effected :)

Natalie
Click to expand...

Couldn't have said it any better! Looks like you covered all the bases here!!!
 
Your Chameleon - veiled, 9 months, male, had him for just under a week
Handling - only had him out while re arranging and changing cages which has been a bit much i think
Feeding - fed him cricketss with a recommended multivit/calcium powder, i put in about 10 and he ate about 2-3 a day latelys (i think stress maybe be causing him not to eat alot)
Supplements - retivite with d3 by zoo meds
Watering - i have a repti fogger and i mist 1-2 times a day
Fecal Description - hes been tested and clear of parasites, his fecal i havents really looked for and i just put him in his big new cage so theres none yet
History - no problems in the past

Cage Info:
Cage Type - glass screen combo 4feet high 4 ft wide and 2 feet deeps
Lighting - i have a 150 watt basking light the bulb came in a yellow box, i was told i need 150 watt for the size of tank. i also have the 24' uva uvb tube bulb (exo-terra reptisun 5.0)
Temperature - temp at the time tonight i turned the lights off which was at 9 oclock was 79 degrees turn lights on at 8am turn off at 9-10pm
Humidity - humidity is at 81 percent but like i said i just set up the tank and i wanna get info on correct level to tune in my exclosure, use a fogger for humidity and im sure misty helps too, i have a digital thermometer and hygrometer
Plants - fake plants and vines
Placement - in my bedroom, ow traffic area, window about 3 feet away blinds, always closed, cage is on stand about 1.5 ft tall, top of tank is just over 6ft highhigh
Location - edmonton alberta

Current Problem - eyes closed, tail curled, i will say though that he is active sometimes through out the day when i am not bothering him, not certain forsure but i notice hes not in the same spot if im out for a while


what ae optimum levels for humidity and temp? length of time i leav my lights on? do i have correct heat bulb? feeding habits to get into? anything helps im brand new!!
 
Feeding - fed him cricketss with a recommended multivit/calcium powder, i put in about 10 and he ate about 2-3 a day latelys (i think stress maybe be causing him not to eat alot) You also want to gut load your crickets because what the crickets eat goes in to your cham other wise they aren't very nutritious. Gut load your crickets with dark leafy greens like Kale, mustard greens. Fruit and vegies, oranges, apples, sweet potato, carrots and others
Supplements - retivite with d3 by zoo meds You want to use three different type of supplements to prevent MBD but also chams are prone to over supplementation which can lead to other problems with kidneys etc. You need 1) phosphorous free calcium powder to sprinkl lightly on your feeders daily. 2) phosphorous free calcium plus D3 powder used on feeders twice a month. 3) multivitamin sprinkled on feeders twice a month
Watering - i have a repti fogger and i mist 1-2 times a day This is good..Just make sure that you see him drink because dehydration leads to many other problems like lack of appetite and stresses internal organs
Fecal Description - hes been tested and clear of parasites, his fecal i havents really looked for and i just put him in his big new cage so theres none yet When he does have a fecal it should be dark with white urates (liquid part). If the urates are yellow or orange he is dehydrated
History - no problems in the past

Cage Info:
Cage Type - glass screen combo 4feet high 4 ft wide and 2 feet deeps
Lighting - i have a 150 watt basking light the bulb came in a yellow box, i was told i need 150 watt for the size of tank 150 Watt is much too hot for a cham. The basking area which is right bellow the light should only be 80-85 degrees. The rest of the cage can have a temp from 80-65 degrees and it's actually best if the rest of the tank has a 10 degree difference it temp. i also have the 24' uva uvb tube bulb (exo-terra reptisun 5.0) 5.0 UVB tube is good
Temperature - temp at the time tonight i turned the lights off which was at 9 oclock was 79 degrees turn lights on at 8am turn off at 9-10pm. you want a 12 hour time span. ie 8am-9pm. I have mine on a timer.
Humidity - humidity is at 81 percent but like i said i just set up the tank and i wanna get info on correct level to tune in my exclosure, use a fogger for humidity and im sure misty helps too, i have a digital thermometer and hygrometer The Humidity is OK and go down to 60%. Just make sure the cage drys out between mistings or the cham can bacterial infection or fungal growth on the skin
Plants - fake plants and vines Live plants are highly recommended such as pothos, schefflera, fig, hibiscus. It helps to keep humidity up and chams prefer them

!![/QUOTE]
 
your uvb light is great. Most everyone on here uses the Reptisun 5.0. but as Jaxygirl stated before your 150watt was sold to you in error and is much much too hot for a chameleon!. I would recommend something in the 40-60 watt range, just a regular housebulb. You lights should be on for about 12 hours a day and off 12 hours. I don't know if you have a time change in Canada but in the U.S. it starts at the end of the month so I will be cutting my light time back to coincide with it getting dark early. Also, you need to get him on a supplement schedule with 3 supplements, being calcium without d3 at every feeding or so, calcium w/d3 twice a month and a multi vitamin twice a month or so also. Also, once he gets settled in you can feed him every other day if you prefer. As chameleons get older they don't require as much food as when they are really young and growing rapidly.
 
ok so i need to buy a phosphorus free calcium, and gutload my feeders,

downsize to a 100 watt? or is 150 watt ok if temp is good?

lower humidity to 60%

i will move into lives plans sooner than later but i hope they are okay for right now.

all in all, my cham just stressed out and needs to take time to get used to his surrounds to become comfortable?

do i turn off my fogger at night?
 
carol5208 said:
haha! I was thinking you were proabably typing at the same time as me! lol!
Click to expand...

I know..I waited a while to see which one of us was going to jump on it first. Do you want to answer the next question or should I. Cause I know we're going to say the same thing..LOL!
 
yeah you can turn off the fogger at night. You don't want the cage wet at night. So never mist right before you are getting ready for lights to go out. Cage should be dry. I would go down to a 60 watt and try that. 100watt is still high. Most likely the 150 watt is hurting your chams eyes and that is why she is closing them.
 
i have a 100w white coloured house bulb, should i put this in place of the 150 watt, will it produce enough heat?
 
They don't require it to be that hot. Remember they come from the rain forest, not the desert and unfortunately the pet stores sometimes treat them as such. A 60 watt should be fine.
 
here is a good link for you to read about keeping a Veiled. It was created by one ohttps://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/jannb/325-info-new-keepers-young-veiled-panther-chameleons.htmlf experienced members on here. Sorry I screwed up here let me repost.
 
ok ill read that. so tomorrow when i turn my lights on i will replace my 150w with a 100w house bulb until i got get a 60w. those 60w or in my case for some of the day tomorrow the 100w house bult with produce enough heat to achieve 80-85 degrees?
 
JebBrown said:
i have a 100w white coloured house bulb, should i put this in place of the 150 watt, will it produce enough heat?
Click to expand...

No don't use any colored bulbs. All you want is a cheap household bulb. I purchased a few different watts until I found the correct one that would bring the basking spot to 80-85 degrees. You don't want it hotter then that. The rest of the cage should be around 70 degrees. Chams need around a 10 degree drop so they can get out of the heat or they become uncomfortable. Don't use any heat bulbs at night because the temps need to be cooler at night down to 60 degrees and chams need dark to sleep.
Also, your humidity can range from 60 and up. Just make sure that the cage drys out between mistings. Definitely shut off fogger at night.
 
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