Very sleepy veiled chameleon

Coreyeroc

New Member
Your Chameleon - Female veiled, we have had her for about 2 months now. She was a baby when we got her, so I'm guessing she's no older than 3 months? She's about doubled in size since we got her, if that helps any.

Handling - Almost never. At first I would pick her up every other day, but she began to really dislike it. At that point, I figured it was best to leave her alone except for changing and cleaning her home.

Feeding - We feed her about 30-50 small crickets every 2 or 3 days. I dust the crickets with Calcium+D3, but we're being much more careful with that stuff until we can get her some non-D3 calcium for regular feeding. On occasion she is fed mealworms, but she seems to enjoy the crickets much more.

Supplements - We might have been giving her too much D3, because her crickets are dusted with the calcium+D3 powder that I mentioned above.

Watering - She has a small water bowl at the bottom of the cage. Though it is standing water, I have witnessed her drink from it on several occasions. The bowl is cleaned once a week. I plan on putting ice cubes at the top of the cage from now on so the water will be dripping as well, hopefully that will be even better for her.

Fecal Description - The fecal matter is brown, the urate is half white, half orange. I know this points to dehydration, which is why I'm going to start the ice cube dripping method.

History - Her overall energy level has dropped over the past couple weeks. When she is awake, she roams around the cage and seems in relatively good spirits. I am a first time chameleon owner though, so I have no standard to base my observations upon.

Cage Info:

Cage Type - Fully screen cage; 18 inches tall, 18 inches wide, 24 inches long. This is her third cage, and not her final one. I know she will need a bigger one soon, but how big is big enough?

Lighting - Daytime: Zoo Med 60 watt Daylight Blue Reptile Bulb (UVA/UVB), 5.5" clamp lamp 4:30 AM to 9 PM
Night: All Living Things 50 watt Infrared Heat Bulb, 5.5" clamp lamp

Temperature - I honestly have nothing to measure temperatures. The only device I have right now is an electronic meat thermometer which is obviously inadequate for this purpose. (I will get a proper thermometer ASAP!) I do make sure that whichever bulb is on is on one side of the cage so that she can escape to the other side of the cage when she is too warm. I'm not convinced that the daytime bulb is hot enough though- the heat seems to dissipate very quickly about two inches down from the top of the enclosure.

Humidity - Again, I have no device to measure humidity at this time. I have a humidifier (Repti Fogger) that is on for about an hour or two a day, but I am unsure as to how high or low the setting should be and if one or two hours is even enough.

Plants - No live plants, lots and lots of branches and fake plants that she loves to climb on! All were bought from PetSmart.

Placement - Her cage is in a corner of our living room as far away from any vents or high traffic areas as possible. The cage is on a table, and the top of the cage is 3 ft, 3 in. from the floor.

Location - Houston, TX, USA. Very hot outside during the day right now, relatively warm and mild in the morning. No rain in about 2 weeks. Inside temperature of the house is between 72 to 74.

-------------------------
Problem:
Abby, our female veiled chameleon, has developed a troubling habit over the past couple weeks. She followed a very regular sleeping schedule for the first month and a half that we had her, but about two weeks ago, she started staying up past the normal time when we would change the daytime bulb to the infrared bulb. This led to her sleeping during parts of the day but being active at parts of the night. She seemed to be sleeping for the same amount of time, just at different times than usual. But over the past week she has been sleeping more often than she has been awake, and today in particular she has been awake for maybe 30 minutes in between her long "naps". She flinches whenever a drop of water touches her, but her eyes do not open.

I know this is abnormal, and I am trying to find out what I am doing wrong that is causing this! She appears to be a normal weight, and whenever she sleeps her tail is tightly wound into a nice plump coil. She is a very light yellowish green when she sleeps, and a medium green when awake. Her eyes do not appear to be sunken in.

Also, I am unclear as to what steps should be taken to help the egg laying process along. I have read several different sources but I still don't know what signs to look for that would tell me she is ready to lay. I also need advice as to what I should move her into when the signs are imminent. Every source I've read seems to say something different, and I want to do this right! I understand it needs to be something deep and full of sand, but how big should the perimeter of this "cage" be? Should I put anything it, should it have tall walls, and how long per day should she be in there? Sorry for all the questions, if anybody knows a good link to a guide that would be of help (preferably with pictures!), it would be much appreciated.

Picture
Thankfully, just before I hit submit, Abby woke up and I was able to get a decent picture of her! Here she is:
photo.jpg
 
Your Chameleon - Female veiled, we have had her for about 2 months now. She was a baby when we got her, so I'm guessing she's no older than 3 months? She's about doubled in size since we got her, if that helps any.

Handling - Almost never. At first I would pick her up every other day, but she began to really dislike it. At that point, I figured it was best to leave her alone except for changing and cleaning her home.

Feeding - We feed her about 30-50 small crickets every 2 or 3 days. I dust the crickets with Calcium+D3, but we're being much more careful with that stuff until we can get her some non-D3 calcium for regular feeding. On occasion she is fed mealworms, but she seems to enjoy the crickets much more. Way to many bugs to feed. She should eat about 10 bugs a day. calcium with d3 is for twice a month only, not every feeding, you need to get a calcium without d3 for every feeding, or buy repashy all in one calcium plus for every feeding

Supplements - We might have been giving her too much D3, because her crickets are dusted with the calcium+D3 powder that I mentioned above.

Watering - She has a small water bowl at the bottom of the cage. Though it is standing water, I have witnessed her drink from it on several occasions. The bowl is cleaned once a week. I plan on putting ice cubes at the top of the cage from now on so the water will be dripping as well, hopefully that will be even better for her.please remove the water bowl, if a bug dies in it, or she poops in it, it will grow bacteria. you need to mist her 3-5 times aday, not enough water is why her urates are orange.

Fecal Description - The fecal matter is brown, the urate is half white, half orange. I know this points to dehydration, which is why I'm going to start the ice cube dripping method.

History - Her overall energy level has dropped over the past couple weeks. When she is awake, she roams around the cage and seems in relatively good spirits. I am a first time chameleon owner though, so I have no standard to base my observations upon.
they enjoy roaming, this isnt a bad thing.
Cage Info:

Cage Type - Fully screen cage; 18 inches tall, 18 inches wide, 24 inches long. This is her third cage, and not her final one. I know she will need a bigger one soon, but how big is big enough?bigger is always better. adult males get a 2x2x4 ft cage

Lighting - Daytime: Zoo Med 60 watt Daylight Blue Reptile Bulb (UVA/UVB), 5.5" clamp lamp 4:30 AM to 9 PM
Night: All Living Things 50 watt Infrared Heat Bulb, 5.5" clamp lamp
use a regular house bulb for basking, a reptiglo or reptisun uvb bulb 5.09 and get rid of the night light. colored bulbs arent good for chams, and they dont need light at at night. they can also handle temps down to 50 deg F at night. they need total darkness to sleep!


Temperature - I honestly have nothing to measure temperatures. The only device I have right now is an electronic meat thermometer which is obviously inadequate for this purpose. (I will get a proper thermometer ASAP!) I do make sure that whichever bulb is on is on one side of the cage so that she can escape to the other side of the cage when she is too warm. I'm not convinced that the daytime bulb is hot enough though- the heat seems to dissipate very quickly about two inches down from the top of the enclosure.
you need to get these temps measured asap! she could be too cold or hot, thus causing some of the problems! a good basking temp is 80-83 deg, and have it get cooler farther down the cage.females need slightly cooler temps to reduce egg laying.
Humidity - Again, I have no device to measure humidity at this time. I have a humidifier (Repti Fogger) that is on for about an hour or two a day, but I am unsure as to how high or low the setting should be and if one or two hours is even enough. again, get something to measure. my humidity stays around 40-50% all day, and jumps when ive misted.

Plants - No live plants, lots and lots of branches and fake plants that she loves to climb on! All were bought from PetSmart.
live plants help with humidity.
Placement - Her cage is in a corner of our living room as far away from any vents or high traffic areas as possible. The cage is on a table, and the top of the cage is 3 ft, 3 in. from the floor.

Location - Houston, TX, USA. Very hot outside during the day right now, relatively warm and mild in the morning. No rain in about 2 weeks. Inside temperature of the house is between 72 to 74.

-------------------------
Problem:
Abby, our female veiled chameleon, has developed a troubling habit over the past couple weeks. She followed a very regular sleeping schedule for the first month and a half that we had her, but about two weeks ago, she started staying up past the normal time when we would change the daytime bulb to the infrared bulb. This led to her sleeping during parts of the day but being active at parts of the night. She seemed to be sleeping for the same amount of time, just at different times than usual. But over the past week she has been sleeping more often than she has been awake, and today in particular she has been awake for maybe 30 minutes in between her long "naps". She flinches whenever a drop of water touches her, but her eyes do not open.

I know this is abnormal, and I am trying to find out what I am doing wrong that is causing this! She appears to be a normal weight, and whenever she sleeps her tail is tightly wound into a nice plump coil. She is a very light yellowish green when she sleeps, and a medium green when awake. Her eyes do not appear to be sunken in.

Also, I am unclear as to what steps should be taken to help the egg laying process along. I have read several different sources but I still don't know what signs to look for that would tell me she is ready to lay. I also need advice as to what I should move her into when the signs are imminent. Every source I've read seems to say something different, and I want to do this right! I understand it needs to be something deep and full of sand, but how big should the perimeter of this "cage" be? Should I put anything it, should it have tall walls, and how long per day should she be in there? Sorry for all the questions, if anybody knows a good link to a guide that would be of help (preferably with pictures!), it would be much appreciated.

Picture
Thankfully, just before I hit submit, Abby woke up and I was able to get a decent picture of her! Here she is:
photo.jpg

for her sleep issue- shes probably not sleeping because yo uhave a night light on her! they need darkness to sleep. you have messed with her schedule. total darkness at night. and a 12 hour on/off cycle is recommended. fix this, and see how she improves in the next few days.

as for eggs- females can begin to lay as early as 6 months old.
around this time it is best to reduce how much you feed, and lower basking temps to reduce or stop egg production.

we recommend keeping an egg laying bin in her cage at all times when she gets to this age, so you dont miss egg laying signs.
egg bins shouold be at lest 12 inches deep, and 12 inches wide.
i use washed top soil that is damp enough to hold a tunnel when she digs.

laying can take several days, and they cannot be disturbed during this process.

by having total acess to the bin, she can do her thing. you dont want to touch her, feed her, etc. covering her cage is best when she lays.

females do not always have a clear sign for when they need to lay. some change colors, others dont, some stop eating, others dont.. thus why you should let her have a lay bin 24/7.

any other questions?
 
Thank you very much for the tips! I kept the infrared light off last night, and right now she's roaming around with her eyes completely open, and she seems in much better spirits!

I'll be sure to get some plain calcium supplements, preferably the Repashy all-in-one.

You also answered all my questions I had about the egg laying process. I'll be sure to put something like that in her cage ASAP.

I do have two questions, though- I'm certainly going to look into getting some real plants, but what is the best way to clean the fake plants that I have in there now? I'm hesitant to use soap because I don't want to risk there being any soap residue left over, but I know it's important to get the bacteria off of them.

And what do you use for bedding? There seems to be quite a few options out there so I want to make sure I'm using the best kind.

Thanks in advance!
 
Thank you very much for the tips! I kept the infrared light off last night, and right now she's roaming around with her eyes completely open, and she seems in much better spirits!

I'll be sure to get some plain calcium supplements, preferably the Repashy all-in-one.

You also answered all my questions I had about the egg laying process. I'll be sure to put something like that in her cage ASAP.

I do have two questions, though- I'm certainly going to look into getting some real plants, but what is the best way to clean the fake plants that I have in there now? I'm hesitant to use soap because I don't want to risk there being any soap residue left over, but I know it's important to get the bacteria off of them.

And what do you use for bedding? There seems to be quite a few options out there so I want to make sure I'm using the best kind.

Thanks in advance!

You can get repashy all in one calcium plus from repashy, a site sponsor. best stuff ever. and i think my chams like it better than other stuff.

To clean fake plants- a drop or two of dish soap mixed with alot of warm water.. soak it, scrub it, etc. then let it air dry.

and by bedding do you mean for the floor?
if so.. nothing.

Anything on the floor that is loose can be ingested. and this can lead to impaction.

Bare floor, or if you really want something, reptile carpet. But i do bare floors in all my cages.

If a bug gets into loose substrate, and your cham eats it.. its just not good.
 
We were paranoid with our first Veiled a few years ago (here in Hong Kong, where temperature is not really an issue for Veiled rather than too much humidity) and we kept the first 'winter' an infrared for about a week, realizing that her sleep pattern was broken. Veiled can withstand frost in extreme situations (not recommended but they do in nature), so Houston should not really be the place to not worry about night heating. Correct me if I am wrong.

Standing water bowl as mentioned before is a no go, especially if replaced only once a week. In nature they get their water source from the morning dew, droplets on leaves etc. Try to mimic that and the urine color should improve. In Yemen, Veiled are found on Acaica Trees, rather small leafy trees where the water droplets slip off to the underside fast and be stored during the hot day (other than tropical broadleaves, which consume moisture during the runoff).

Same here on D3. It is a rather overdose mix for Chams and should be sold in smaller containers for this purpose. I always see without and with D3 in same dosage recommended to all reptiles. They really should unable Chams from it.

And forgot: Welcome to the forum. Chams are really addictive. You might stay here a while.

And forgot 2: Love your Cham.
 
Thank you two very much!

Camimom- we're using this stuff called "Vita-Sand". It claims to be better and less dangerous than normal substrates, but I'd trust your opinion more than I would trust marketing material.

Ulrich- Abby now has one of those water bottles that gerbils and other small animals use with the little metal ball at the tip. I read that chameleons are attracted to that, is this true?

And thank you very much for the welcome and the kind comment towards Abby, your cham looks quite amazing as well!
 
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