Veiled Not Eating, Falling off Branches

Thank You!

Thank you for the feedback.

I will start gutloading with the feeder block again and make sure she is getting her D3 once maybe twice a month. Now that it is nice out I bet I could open a window next to her cage and let a lot of real light in! If there is anything else I can do to make sure she gets better and to make sure this never happens again. Let me know!! This is my first Chameleon. Her health has deteriorated in the last two months and I want to make sure she only gets better from here.
 
be careful with a glass enclosure and the sun, could cause overheating in the enclosure..... i know down in florence, there is a store that carry's black soldier fly larvae... fairly cheap... super high in calcium..... pet supplies plus... its on mall road.
 
When a chameleon has MBD its important to treat it until the bones are strong again by giving it some liquid calcium Sandoz or gluconate daily until its bones are strong again.

Its also important that you supplement properly, gutload/feed the insects properly, provide appropriate temperatures and UVB light (that does not pass through glass or plastic).

Re: supplements...
Its recommended that you dust the insects with a phos.-free calcium powder just before feeding them to the chameleon to help make up for the usually poor ratio of calcium to phos. found in most feeder insects.

Its recommended that you dust the insects before feeding them to the chameleon twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues.

Its recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder with a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources don't build up in the system like prEformed sources do....so this leaves it up to you to decide when/if you need to use prEformed vitamin A or not.

D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light will allow the chameleon to use the calcium in the diet. D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light should not build up in the system as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the light at will.

Appropriate temperatures (mid to low 80'sF) will aid in digestion and in nutrient absorption.

Crickets, superworms, roaches, etc. can be fed/gutloaded with a wide assortment of greens such as dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, etc and veggies such as carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper.

Since you have a female veiled chameleon its also important that there is always a suitable place in the cage for her to dig in case she needs to lay eggs.

Hope this helps!
 
Update!

Update: Camilla is now looking much better in her coloring and movements but refuses to eat and throws up anything I give her. How do I get her to eat?
 
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