Veiled chameleon

In a fish tank
Okay, then we have to get him out of there ASAP. For beginners, glass enclosures are not recommended. He cannot live a full happy life in a fish tank.

I've taken a look at the cart that @BostonKeith was so kind enough to make, and I have a few adjustments of my own, to try to help you get the cost as low as possible.

Reptibreeze XL - $127
Reptisun T5HO 24" - $58
Heat Lamp Reflector Dome - $10
60 Watt Incandescent Bulbs - $10
Reptile Fogger - $49
Reptivite - $18
Reptile Calcium NO D3 - $9
Hygrometer Thermometer - $11
70 Watt Sansi Grow Light - $52
Reptile Mister - $40 OR Hand Mister $10
Storage bin (to use as reservoir for mister) - $19

Go to Lowes or Home Depot - get 2 pothos ($14 each) and one umbrella plant ($20)

Get sticks from outside, you can sanitize them at home.

Total including the plants and automatic mister setup: $451

Total including the plants and had mister: $402


Every single one of these products I have or have used and recommend. This is the bare minimum that you need to have for your chameleon. No exceptions.
 
Okay, then we have to get him out of there ASAP. For beginners, glass enclosures are not recommended. He cannot live a full happy life in a fish tank.

I've taken a look at the cart that @BostonKeith was so kind enough to make, and I have a few adjustments of my own, to try to help you get the cost as low as possible.

Reptibreeze XL - $127
Reptisun T5HO 24" - $58
Heat Lamp Reflector Dome - $10
60 Watt Incandescent Bulbs - $10
Reptile Fogger - $49
Reptivite - $18
Reptile Calcium NO D3 - $9
Hygrometer Thermometer - $11
70 Watt Sansi Grow Light - $52
Reptile Mister - $40 OR Hand Mister $10
Storage bin (to use as reservoir for mister) - $19

Go to Lowes or Home Depot - get 2 pothos ($14 each) and one umbrella plant ($20)

Get sticks from outside, you can sanitize them at home.

Total including the plants and automatic mister setup: $451

Total including the plants and had mister: $402


Every single one of these products I have or have used and recommend. This is the bare minimum that you need to have for your chameleon. No exceptions.
I have a mats hydro light would that work
 
Don't forget gutload! @Evelinguerrero could you post some pics of your cham and its set up, please? Filling it the husbandry form would help tons, too! For info, read through every module and the veiled care sheet from The Chameleon Academy, as it has the most accurate and up-to-date info. Here's some helpful links and charts, too:
 

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Don't forget gutload! @Evelinguerrero could you post some pics of your cham and its set up, please? Filling it the husbandry form would help tons, too! For info, read through every module and the veiled care sheet from The Chameleon Academy, as it has the most accurate and up-to-date info. Here's some helpful links and charts, too:
Okay ya I seen that but my question was what’s the most important thing rn
 
Okay ya I seen that but my question was what’s the most important thing rn
Everything! Most importantly UVB, supplements, gutload and feeders, plant(s), and a pressure sprayer to mist. Not to sound harsh, but everything should've been bought, set-up, and perfected before you got your chameleon. You need a crash course in proper husbandry and will most likely have to pay extra for everything since there are time restraints. What do you currently have?
 
And a heart bulb, as well, with at least one digital thermometer with a probe and at least two digital hygrometer-thermometer combos. A proper cage, as well!
 
Everything! Most importantly UVB, supplements, gutload and feeders, plant(s), and a pressure sprayer to mist. Not to sound harsh, but everything should've been bought, set-up, and perfected before you got your chameleon. You need a crash course in proper husbandry and will most likely have to pay extra for everything since there are time restraints. What do you currently have?
This 100%. There is no alternative or cutting corners. The list I made is the absolute bare minimum cheapest options out there. Everything is equally as important because they work together for your chameleon - they cannot go without one of these things. That’s like asking you if you’d rather have oxygen, food, or water. You can’t just pick one over the others. I’m sorry but this is what it is and you should have had these things prior to getting your chameleon, I guess if you don’t have the funds or don’t want to spend the money, then maybe you should consider rehoming it.
 
This 100%. There is no alternative or cutting corners. The list I made is the absolute bare minimum cheapest options out there. Everything is equally as important because they work together for your chameleon - they cannot go without one of these things. That’s like asking you if you’d rather have oxygen, food, or water. You can’t just pick one over the others. I’m sorry but this is what it is and you should have had these things prior to getting your chameleon, I guess if you don’t have the funds or don’t want to spend the money, then maybe you should consider rehoming it.
I am getting all the stuff I’m just saying what should I get first the cage and the uvb or what
 
@Evelinguerrero here’s what you need to do, since you are brand new to chameleons, please go through the website linked below and read all about veiled chameleons. It is a LOT of reading, but I think it will address many of your questions and concerns, and may show you why these are complex animals in which we can’t just cut corners. Grab a coffee or tea or whatever you drink, chill, and read it like it’s a book. Then afterwards come back and ask any more questions you have :)

https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
 
  • Your Chameleon - I have a veiled male chameleon
  • Handling - How often I handle it is 10 min the most
  • Feeding - I feed him worms I don’t know how the gut feeding goes so not had started that
  • Supplements - I don’t use this I’m really new
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique I use a dripping system
  • Fecal Description - I don’t know to much
  • History - My Cham is months only it looks skinny to me like I can see the bones :( and I live in Phoenix Az and my Cham is unfortunately living in a fish tank because of my situation that I don’t have enough money I just thought it was really cool and petco doesn’t take care of them right they gave a lot of Cham in one cage so I was gladly to take it home

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - fish tank 10 gallons
  • Lighting - Mars hydro 6:30 am on 6:30 pm off
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? It is in my room


  • Location - Phoenix az
 
Everyone being so hard on you because it takes a lot of special equipment for chameleons in general. Should not be a impulse buy. My veiled came to me last August out of the blue. So much to learn and buy and pet stores will sell you all the wrong stuff. They have shown you all mandatory things you need. If you listen to this family you and your cham can have a long happy life together 😊
 
Okay, there's a lot to go through, so bear with me! I know this is a lot of info and can be very overwhelming, so if you have questions, need more clarification, help with anything, etc, please let us know, we're happy to help! Also, welcome on here!
  • Your Chameleon - I have a veiled male chameleon Are you sure it is a male (has tarsal spurs), as females require different care. Could you post a pic of it and add its age if you know it, please?
  • Handling - How often I handle it is 10 min the most How often are you planning to handle it on the future?
  • Feeding - I feed him worms I don’t know how the gut feeding goes so not had started that Do you know what type of worms? So gutloading is feeding the bugs you'll feed off to your chameleon healthy foods so your cham, in return, stays healthy (from the good stuff eaten that is now in the gut of the bug). We use feeders as a carrying vessel to transport all of the vital nutrients that chameleons need but the bugs in captivity are missing. Age and gender define how big your feeders need to be and how many feeders should be fed. I reattached the gutload and feeder charts. Try to use as many ingredients (organic and in the correct ratios) in your gutload as possible! The more variety, the better (for feeders, too)!
  • Supplements - I don’t use this I’m really new You'll need to get a quality phosphorus-free calcium without D3 (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium Without D3) to use every feeding except for once every two weeks, where you'll use a quality multivitamin with D3 and preformed Vit. A (like Zoo Med Reptivite With D3) instead To use these supplements, you "dust" them onto your feeders right before you go to feed them off. So you'll take a cup, bag, container, etc, place just enough of the supplement in to lightly coat all of the feeders (you don't want them looking like powder donuts- just a full coverage, light "dusting"), place the bugs in said container, swirl them around in the cup and the supplement needed for that day until dusted, then feed off immediately!
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique I use a dripping system You need to get at least a handheld mister, along with an automated one if you can afford it (either MistKing or CliMist). For the handheld mister, a garden pressurized sprayer is cheap and works amazing! You need to mist the cage (a proper cage only, not a fish tank) at least 2-5+ minutes long around lights on and lights off, along with one midday to late afternoon one if needed for humidity. At night you can do short sports to help raise and keep humidity up. Where did you place the output of your dripper? It should be placed at the top of the cage onto a plant leaf high up, as well, and hit lots of leaves on its way down to the bottom and out the drainage system (which you'll need to keep the cage free of pooling/standing water).
  • Fecal Description - I don’t know to much Your cham should be taken in to the vet, only an experienced chameleon vet, for a general check-up, x-rays, bloodwork (if the cham is big enough to do it safely), and a fecal (bring its freshest poop with you to check for parasites, and try to drop off at least two more afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed in the first one).
  • History - My Cham is months only it looks skinny to me like I can see the bones :( and I live in Phoenix Az and my Cham is unfortunately living in a fish tank because of my situation that I don’t have enough money I just thought it was really cool and petco doesn’t take care of them right they gave a lot of Cham in one cage so I was gladly to take it home If you don't have, or want to spend, the money needed to give this chameleon a proper home, there's no shame in giving it to a chameleon rescue, a rehabber, etc. If you so want to spend the money, awesome! They're amazing little creatures that'll get you hooked!

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - fish tank 10 gallons You need a better cage ASAP. The quickest way is to go to a pet store near you (call around so you don't waste time driving and then everything's closed), either a chain pet store or an exotics one, for a Zoo Med ReptiBreeze XL (2'x2'x4' tall). You can also grab the correct supplements and lighting there, and possibly gutload and thermometers and hygrometers, as well!
  • Lighting - Mars hydro 6:30 am on 6:30 pm off You need to get a T5 HO linear UVB bulb and fixture, at least 2' long to go across the top of the cage horizontally or 3' to go across it diagonally, or at least the length of its forever cage. Arcadia 6% or Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 bulbs are best (I prefer Arcadia because they last twice as long, 1 year, and are better quality in my experience). You will need to place the fixture and bulb where it will be 8-9" away from its basking branch to the UVB bulb itself. If your cham is younger, and to add more climbing space if older, you will need to raise the fixture off of the cage so it doesn't get overexposed to UV when screen-climbing. You will also need a heat bulb for during the day. It needs to be a plain white incandescent bulb. You can get the clamp lamp/heat dome fixture for it at the pet store and maybe the bulb itself there, too (Fluker's and Exo Terra make plain white incandescent basking bulbs). If those bulbs aren't available, and household incandescent bulbs are still legal in your area, go to your local Lowe's, Home Depot, Walmart, local hardware store, etc to pick one up there (they might also have clamp lamps/heat dome fixtures). Buy multiple wattages, starting smaller, to work your way up to the proper baking temp. You can also buy plants, a handheld mister, and thermometer and hygrometers (in the weather section) there, too! The basking bulb needs to be raised off of the screen and be a minimum of 10-12" away from the basking branch. Your light timing is perfect! If you don't already have one, get a timer to plug the lights in to, also available at the hardware store.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Temps depend on age and gender, as well. To measure the basking temp, you'll need to buy and place the probe of a digital thermometer with a probe where the top of your chameleon's back is when it's on its basking branch. You'll also need thermometers and hygrometers to measure ambient and overnight temps and humidity levels. The easiest is to get at least 2 (I use 3) digital thermometer-hygrometer combos, with or without probes, and place one near the top of the cage and basking area and one near the bottom (along with one in the middle of the cage if you get three). The ambient temps should be in the low 70s (°F) during the day and preferably at or below 65°F at night.
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Addressed above. Humidity levels should be 30-50% during the day and, if temps are at or below 65°F at night and there is proper airflow, 75-100% at night.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? For veiled chameleons, you can only use veiled-tested chameleon safe live plants (properly cleaned and repotted into organic potting soil with rocks too big for it to eat- I use rocks around 5"+- covering the soil in the pot). Your cage should be lush with plants and have lots of vines (either real or fake, just no Exo Terra vines, moss or regular), and branches (from non-toxic and non sap-producing trees). I added two plant charts and a more in-depth plant link, along with a few cage set-up and general info links, in post #46 of this thread!
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? It is in my room How high up will his new cage be in your room? Will it by any vents, fans, drafts, or windows?


  • Location - Phoenix az
If you need help with any of that, let us know! If I missed something, please anyone let me know and add it in!
 

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I hope you do understand that we are all trying to help you and not being judgmental or mean. I think I understand your dilemma and am going to do my very best to try to offer some ideas, but none will be ideal and will only be for a very temporary solution.
I’m going to agree that getting the correct enclosure is a priority and I want you to understand why. First, 10 gal tank is extremely small. It lacks adequate ventilation/air flow. Adding heat and humidity to such a small area will surely make your chameleon sick and can lead to it’s death. Sure, you can get a smaller screen enclosure than the 2x2x4’, but you’ll still be needing to upgrade to the larger size in a short amount of time as your chameleon grows. So, it’s having to spend twice, which is a waste.
Now, if you get the enclosure first, you still have the problem of no uvb which will cause serious issues. So, you’ll be needing to take your chameleon outside at least 3 times a week for 20-30 minutes minimum to get natural uvb from the sun. However, he can overheat quickly/easily so you don’t want direct sun. You want dappled sun. If you have a good sized plant like a hibiscus outside, you can let him hang out on it for a bit. Do not take your eyes off him for even a second though! They run fast when they want to.
There are no substitutes for supplements.
 
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