UV control unit
- Thread starter Bernie
- Start date
Solid Snake
Avid Member
Whoops, yes it could blow it, and effect proformance...
Solid Snake
Avid Member
Ok, I see, that is like an adjustable system? You just mount the connectors were you need them? Is that fairly problematic? Do you like that system?
Well, its best to get a new control unit, or bulb, it PROBABLY wont burst, but could cause the bulb to burn out fairly quickly, while its probably possible to modify with the right knowledge and equipment, I highly recomend you dont try, it would be more trouble than its worth, would take quit a bit of studying, and electricity hurts
and is not to be played around with or guessed at...
Well, its best to get a new control unit, or bulb, it PROBABLY wont burst, but could cause the bulb to burn out fairly quickly, while its probably possible to modify with the right knowledge and equipment, I highly recomend you dont try, it would be more trouble than its worth, would take quit a bit of studying, and electricity hurts
and is not to be played around with or guessed at...Ok, I see, that is like an adjustable system? You just mount the connectors were you need them? Is that fairly problematic? Do you like that system?
Well, its best to get a new control unit, or bulb, it PROBABLY wont burst, but could cause the bulb to burn out fairly quickly, while its probably possible to modify with the right knowledge and equipment, I highly recomend you dont try, it would be more trouble than its worth, would take quit a bit of studying, and electricity hurts
I currently have a 30" tube in a viv that is 36" wide. This runs on a 25/30w controller. I have replaced this viv with a Reptibreeze XL which I have ordered a 24" ReptiSun 5.0 for (fits perfect).
My Arcadia control unit is a 25/30w unit, but the tube I bought is 18w. So this is my reason for the question. I did ask a reptile store and they suggested changing the starter switch inside the controller.
Looks like I have answered my own question. Taken from the manufacturers website.....
"Do I have to use the specific wattage controller with my lamp?"
Yes, using an existing controller with a new wattage of lamp is not a good idea. If the controller is a lower wattage than the lamp then the lamp may fail to light, or could result in a lamp with a weakened output. Using a controller which is a more powerful wattage than a lamp will mean either a shorter life-span for the controller - as it has to work very hard to light the lamp; and could result in the lamps being destroyed and having to be repalced at frequent intervals.
"Do I have to use the specific wattage controller with my lamp?"
Yes, using an existing controller with a new wattage of lamp is not a good idea. If the controller is a lower wattage than the lamp then the lamp may fail to light, or could result in a lamp with a weakened output. Using a controller which is a more powerful wattage than a lamp will mean either a shorter life-span for the controller - as it has to work very hard to light the lamp; and could result in the lamps being destroyed and having to be repalced at frequent intervals.
Solid Snake
Avid Member
Your starter switch is to regulate the flow of electrons when the bulb first lights, then theres a ballast that distributes the appropriate amount of volts/watts to keep the light going, and that would have to be swapped to. So you would basicaly be buying another control unit, minus housing. I havnt thought about this stuff in quite a bit, but that is my understanding, maybe someone will have more proffesional info...
