Tips to boost a disabled chameleon's health

It's been a minute since I've needed to post so here's updated info.

Phineas the Tongue-less Wonder
  • Your Chameleon - Male, Jackson Xantholophus. Age estimate is 2.5-3 years. I've had him about 1.75 years now. Petsmart source.
  • Handling - I bring him out a few times a week for physical checks and watering. (Will address this down below.)
  • Feeding - My gang gets fed 2-3 times a week. About 5 feeders (give or take depending on size and type). In order of frequency: Dubias, crickets, superworms, silkworms, hornworms. None are big fans of soldier fly larvae, unfortunately. Phin can't crush his food (info below) so his food gets spaced out over 30 minutes to an hour.
  • Supplements - Repashy brand across the board. Calcium every feeding. Calcium w/ low D 2x/month. Multi-vit 1x/month.
  • Watering - Misting morning and night. Fogger overnight. Phin is getting watered by hand unfortunately. Again, I'll explain below.
  • Fecal Description - I haven't found a recent BM but the most recent urate was 75% white, 25% orange. Phin was tested for parasites about a year ago and he was good.
  • History - He came to me with what I now realize was a pretty bad vitamin deficiency. He is overall smaller than my other Jackson for it and it led to him losing his tongue. I worked with a vet but we couldn't save it. The last year has been teaching him to eat by hand, letting him hunt what he can (usually the various worms), and trying to get him back to drinking water on his own.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - 2x2x4 screen. Will be redoing the plastic on the sides (again) because it's not helping with humidity/temp retention. Cage is getting a remodel this weekend because someone is getting a new money tree!
  • Lighting - Main light is a 2-bulb, 2ft., T5, grow light fixture. One bulb is his UVB (ReptiZoo or Arcadia, changed in November, good UVB readings) and the other has been fluorescent 5000k/6500k grow lights that came with it. I am currently shopping for a plug-n-play LED T5 for the grow light side. Additional LED grow light for the plants. Heat lamp is a 75w basking (ReptiZoo?).
  • Temperature - Ambient temp - Daytime: about 68⁰-70⁰F top of cage; About 65⁰F bottom. Night: 55⁰-57⁰F top, about 52⁰F bottom. Basking temp sensor gets knocked around a bit but it says it gets to about 78⁰F. Thermometer gun checks essentially show the same temp so I may need to move his branch. 2 basking times, about 2 hours +/- each. When its cold in the room, I run the basking lamp most of the day.
  • Humidity - Top of cage: 35-40% day, 75-90% night depending on if the heat is on. Bottom: @ 25-35% day, 90% night.
  • Plants - Money tree, pothos, kangaroo paw fern, orchids, small monsteras, grapevine ivy, and a jasmine.
  • Placement - Cage is in a corner of the bedroom on a end table. Top of the cage is about 6ft? No vents but there is a drafty window partially behind his cage.
  • Location - Western Montana, U.S.A.

Current Problem - I mentioned above that Buddy lost his tongue. He's done spectacularly well, really. His weight is great, but leaning toward a bit fluffy because I've had a LOT of silkworms recently. My reason for getting heavy on the silkworms is because, after he lost his tongue, he's never come back around to drinking for himself. I've been leaning hard on misting and his fogger to do a chunk of the work, the silkworms (or hornworms when I get them) to do another chunk, and then I syringe some water into him once a week. He doesn't seem to have the drip-on-nose trigger anymore and ignores my dripper.

Anyway, looking at his urates lately, he's on the dry side. I planed on manually getting water into him a little more often. However, yesterday, I noticed he was gaping when it wasn't normal. I am now rethinking my water plan.

I got a peek in his mouth to look for blockages because, as mentioned, we've been hitting silkworms kinda hard but it's been 2 days. Without his tongue, he can't mush the bugs while he swallows. I definitely watch bug size because of this and he often gets fed over the course of the day. I'm going to let his basking lamp be on most of the day for at least a few days, too, in case digestion has been a problem. He is a bit pudgy so I'll not feed him until maybe Monday and he'll get roaches.

What are some other things I should look at?

What has been tough to find, because maybe the info isn't really there, is how much water is appropriate to give him? It's possible I'm "over-watering" him. When I was syringe feeding him last year, I was instructed to aim for a about 7ml (1/2 Tablespoon) of bug mush. Would that be enough if I spread it out morning/evening? I had been giving him about 5ml at one time before this. I try to be careful of his wind pipe but maybe he's aspirating anyway.

Should I reduce his fogger for a bit or not mist as heavy? I'm hand misting right now because of living in a rental and I can control the spray better. Since my auto misters aren't set up, spraying more often throughout the day isn't an option thanks to work.

I am planning on observing him this weekend for improvement (or not). He's decently healthy so I can wait to call the vet Monday if needed.

Picture of Phineas for yur enjoyment. He was very excited to come out for a bit.

20260130_181307.jpg
 
Last edited:
I’m too tired to answer most of your questions (or even process them). I would add in some hornworms every couple of days instead of syringing water. Just make sure the hornworms are small enough for him and while I think it’s mean, you may need to crush their mandible so they can’t bite him. If you absolutely must syringe some water into him, avoid the front of the mouth and aim for down the throat. The airway is in the front of the mouth.
 
Back
Top Bottom