Tips for weening a Chameleon off superworms

Jhlamotte95

Jhlamotte95

Member
Currently I’m trying to ween my 8 month old to a year old male Ambanja Panther Chameleon off superworms, an back onto Dubai Roaches. This is l because I’ve heard/read that too many super worms for a chameleon can cause health problems (due to the lack of nutrition a superworm holds).

I have tried not offering anything but Roaches for 4 days an has not eaten or shown interest. So I caved or coarse an he ate 5 worms no problem (typical) should I just keep waiting for him to finally get to the point where he’s so starving he finally eats one? Did I just cave to early??

If not wondering if anyone on here has a technique or strategy they have used to help with this issue.
 

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Try offering him crickets and different types of roaches. Non-worm shaped food items. You need to get him excited about something other than candy.

How are you feeding him? free range? in a bowl? by hand? I prefer bowl feeding. It allows him to eat on his schedule and gets him excited when he sees the bugs scurry around in the bin.

He can go a couple of weeks without food and be fine. I’d hold out longer.
 
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I'm going through the same battle you are. He had a BSFL around 4 days ago and nothing since. I am not giving in this time, he can starve.
 
It's not only what they are missing, it's what they contain. 1:18 calcium to phosphorus ratio and high in fat compared to other feeders. Plus, I think they are borderline addictive and they will start refusing to eat other healthier food items.. mine did at least, he basically began refusing to eat anything with legs. If I could do it over again, I would have never let him have a superworm. I want him to have treats, but I think butterworms, wax worms, and horn worms may be less addictive.
 
RyanBRZ said:
It's not only what they are missing, it's what they contain. 1:18 calcium to phosphorus ratio and high in fat compared to other feeders. Plus, I think they are borderline addictive and they will start refusing to eat other healthier food items.. mine did at least, he basically began refusing to eat anything with legs. If I could do it over again, I would have never let him have a superworm. I want him to have treats, but I think butterworms, wax worms, and horn worms may be less addictive.
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Hmm never had a worm junky. I just like them because they eat different things vs say dubia vs crickets. But most insects suck with the calcium ratio, thats why we dust. And yes they are high in fat, but we are talking an extra 10% in body weight. But mine only get a few a week. In fact my last batch of 500 is some how 3 years old. I just threw them in the dubia bin and there is still a few running around, while others have turned into beetles. I have never seen baby supers, so i assume they are still generation 1.

Honestly what does everyone feed as a staple. Most its just dubia or just crickets(there may be some deranged keepers who have both), and maybe a cup of something as a snack. And horns and silkies are mostly just bags of water, they just look good on paper because they are very low calorie.
 
nightanole said:
Hmm never had a worm junky. I just like them because they eat different things vs say dubia vs crickets. But most insects suck with the calcium ratio, thats why we dust. And yes they are high in fat, but we are talking an extra 10% in body weight. But mine only get a few a week. In fact my last batch of 500 is some how 3 years old. I just threw them in the dubia bin and there is still a few running around, while others have turned into beetles. I have never seen baby supers, so i assume they are still generation 1.

Honestly what does everyone feed as a staple. Most its just dubia or just crickets(there may be some deranged keepers who have both), and maybe a cup of something as a snack. And horns and silkies are mostly just bags of water, they just look good on paper because they are very low calorie.
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Yeah, in moderation I agree they are completely fine. Its when they refuse to eat anything else that makes it risky. I had a hard time getting calcium dust to stick to superworms, but that was Repashy Calcium Plus LoD. I recently bought some ZooMed plain calcium and it is a very fine dust that I think would stick to anything.

My boy started out eating dubia's as a staple for his first 2-3 months, then switched to supers, then to crickets, then he would eat nothing but superworms. Through each of these staples I mixed in silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, BSFL's. The only one that he would really continue to eat is BSFL's, but their nutritional value has been debated. For sure they are high in calcium and perfect calcium to phosphorus ratio, but I think that is it. I have put them in some Repashy Bug Burger in an attempt to gut load, but not sure how effective it is.
 
Tough love.... I have an Ambilobe that if he had a choice that would be all he ate. He's nearing adult size/weight/age now so I have him on a 5 feeders a day routine. His favorite stables are dubia>silkworm>crickets and boy does he fluctuate that on a whim. I try to keep a stable amount of each going just for that fact. However he, no matter what, will always hit his Superworm treat first and then not eat his stable for the day. So I started just putting stables in his run cup and when he would eat all of those I'd give a superworm later on that day. Just like a dog gets a treat if he was a "good boy" lol. You know what though he caught in to this and now I no longer have this fight with him where he holds out for superworms. He has litteraly learned he needs to eat all his cup before he gets one lol
 
Chamel619 said:
Try offering him crickets and different types of roaches. Non-worm shaped food items. You need to get him excited about something other than candy.

How are you feeding him? free range? in a bowl? by hand? I prefer bowl feeding. It allows him to eat on his schedule and gets him excited when he sees the bugs scurry around in the bin.

He can go a couple of weeks without food and be fine. I’d hold out longer.
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Ok thank you I was worried about that but I will hold out longer.
 
CamoChameleonsHuman said:
Tough love.... I have an Ambilobe that if he had a choice that would be all he ate. He's nearing adult size/weight/age now so I have him on a 5 feeders a day routine. His favorite stables are dubia>silkworm>crickets and boy does he fluctuate that on a whim. I try to keep a stable amount of each going just for that fact. However he, no matter what, will always hit his Superworm treat first and then not eat his stable for the day. So I started just putting stables in his run cup and when he would eat all of those I'd give a superworm later on that day. Just like a dog gets a treat if he was a "good boy" lol. You know what though he caught in to this and now I no longer have this fight with him where he holds out for superworms. He has litteraly learned he needs to eat all his cup before he gets one lol
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That does make a lot of sense! I will try this also.
 
RyanBRZ said:
The only one that he would really continue to eat is BSFL's, but their nutritional value has been debated. For sure they are high in calcium and perfect calcium to phosphorus ratio, but I think that is it. I have put them in some Repashy Bug Burger in an attempt to gut load, but not sure how effective it is.
Click to expand...


I really really tried BSFL, but for some reason my media/gut load just sucked. Straight from the bin every animal would just puke them up in a few hours, even if they looked clean. I am not washing (how would you without killing them) maggots just to have another staple that is high in calcium.
 
I try to just feed them cabbage, collard greens, kale or carrots. I haven’t seen Rango (my male Ambanja Panther Chameleon) puke any up yet......YET.
 
Jhlamotte95 said:
Currently I’m trying to ween my 8 month old to a year old male Ambanja Panther Chameleon off superworms, an back onto Dubai Roaches. This is l because I’ve heard/read that too many super worms for a chameleon can cause health problems (due to the lack of nutrition a superworm holds).

I have tried not offering anything but Roaches for 4 days an has not eaten or shown interest. So I caved or coarse an he ate 5 worms no problem (typical) should I just keep waiting for him to finally get to the point where he’s so starving he finally eats one? Did I just cave to early??

If not wondering if anyone on here has a technique or strategy they have used to help with this issue.
Click to expand...

Are you open to feedback beyond the thread topic? I can see some husbandry issues in the picture you attached that could really use upgrading asap, including your lighting and enclosure size/set up.

I admit that I haven't gone through your post history, so you may have previously filled out the following form and had it reviewed. If so, please disregard! (y)

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Yes I have upgraded, that picture was before I filled out the info last time an upgraded. Now my basking lamp is 8” above him with a temp of 85-90 degrees during day 68-70 at night. His day time humidity is 40%-60% night time 90%-100% still working on things but definitely still a work in progress.
 
GoodKarma19 said:
Are you open to feedback beyond the thread topic? I can see some husbandry issues in the picture you attached that could really use upgrading asap, including your lighting and enclosure size/set up.



I admit that I haven't gone through your post history, so you may have previously filled out the following form and had it reviewed. If so, please disregard! (y)

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Click to expand...

MY CHAMELEON- Male Ambanja Panther Chameleon not sure age they didn’t know when I got him but Reptile store managers who breed ( wish I checked ) them say between 8-13 months old. I’ve had Rango since July 7, 2019.

HANDLING- Daily once or twice Rango likes to explore he will let me know by sitting right in front of the door while im in the room. Or he will see me an climb down from his basking spot right to the door. I try not to more than once thought some day I don’t at all even if he wants to come out. I used to put my hand in his cage for a minute long not touching anything to let him no I’m cool an one day he crawled up my an has been cool with handling ever since. It’s either that or he is trying to find shade because he crawls back into his cage by himself.

FEEDING- Dubai roaches medium to large occasionally 3-5 a day but am in the process of weening him off super worms. No cricket apartment manager will not allow . All insects gut loaded I switch up what feed them as well (carrots, cabbage, kale, spinach, collard greens)

SUPPLEMENTS- repti Calcuim without d3. Fluker’s Repta Calcium with d3 twice a month (last two days of each month) Herptivite with beta carotene twice a month (Last two days)

WATERING- I use a dripper made out of a water bottle ‍♂ It works. I use a pump power sprayer. The water is filtered out of the faucet through a Brita water pitcher then put into the pump sprayer which has a mist setting. I mist in the morning 30 minutes before the lights go on and 30 minutes after they go off. Also during his rainy months in Ambanja I do a afternoon shower, I try to replicate it.

FETAL DESCRIPTION- about an inch to two inches long light to dark brown, moist nothing moving with a very white tip ( I hear that’s they’re urine) usually some orange. Never tested going in for a check-up the 19th of this month.

HISTORY-NONE ‍♂ They didn’t give me any

Cage- screen the dimensions are Length 16” Width 16” height 30”

LIGHTNING- dual bulb zoomed, power sun 80 power sun bulb. Before I got the power sun bulb Daily light schedule 12 hours 7:30AM-7:30PM.

TEMPERATURE -Rango’s cage is 85-90 degrees (during the day) my setup allows multiple basking spots all the way from Top to bottom. I measured this with 4 temp gages from bottom to top. Over night Temp usually no lower than 68-72 degrees

HUMIDITY- I believe low 40%-55% during mid day I measure this with a Hygro-thermo temp gage/humidity gage I mist the cage 2-3 times for 5 minutes morning an night mid day ( during rainy seasons 3 minutes)

PLANTS- I do have 4 an one cabbage, one dandelion. And two I can’t identify.

PLACEMENT- Rango’s cage is located in my living room near the corner wall two feet right of my Living-room TV. There is an AC across the room about 20 feet infront of him the blows far away from him an barely ever runs. It’s just me an my girlfriend who he sees for maybe 4 hours a day of actually seeing us in the living room or kitchen. The cage stands 67” above the floor.

LOCATION- Warwick, Rhode Island I live in an apartment that is cool with caged lizards.
 
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JacksJill said:
You caved to early and too hard. If you need to test his appetite only give him one worm, then go right back to dubia.
It is a tough love thing or supers are all some of them will ever eat.
Click to expand...

True! I did try that he just didn’t go for it still. Probably because I caved to early (4 days). I’ll make sure I am more tough on his picky butt.
 
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