Three month old yeman not drinking

C

Cesca

New Member
I got my male yeman about a week ago he's around 10 weeks old I am concerned that he doesn't drink he has a dry patch in his side under his ribs. He's eating ok I just wanted some advice pls I have a dripper that he won't go near and I must him three times a day thanks in advance x
 

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He doesn't look dehydrated to me. I don't see anything wrong with him. The spots you are referring to are normal.
 
LIttle tip in case you missed it or didn't know. When you mist, do it for a while, a few minutes. That can trigger, in manner of speaking, your cham to drink. It's better if it's white, a little yellow happens, orange/dark yellow is not cool. I left you a link to get acquainted with poop 101.

Good luck!
 
Nicholasdeaan said:
Does he do it while basking? As you long you hear no raspy noises or popping or crackling it's fine. They'll open their mouth and yawn at times to help regulate their body temperature
Click to expand...
Yes it's whiles he's basking thanks for your help I get so panicked
 
Nicholasdeaan said:
As you long you hear no raspy noises or popping or crackling it's fine.
Click to expand...

It’s not necessarily fine. An open mouth can be an indication they are too hot. Chameleons do not sweat so it’s a way of cooling off. As a possible offshoot of this, he may also be getting burned if his basking area is too hot. Verify that your temperatures are correct just to be on the safe side. Cesca, your chameleon looks great (healthy, no burns or dry skin) but I don’t want you to have problems down the road.

We have written a great resource for new owners and it covers everything you need to keep a chameleon healthy. Check it out! https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/
 
Trace said:
It’s not necessarily fine. An open mouth can be an indication they are too hot. Chameleons do not sweat so it’s a way of cooling off. As a possible offshoot of this, he may also be getting burned if his basking area is too hot. Verify that your temperatures are correct just to be on the safe side. Cesca, your chameleon looks great (healthy, no burns or dry skin) but I don’t want you to have problems down the road.

We have written a great resource for new owners and it covers everything you need to keep a chameleon healthy. Check it out! https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/
Click to expand...
Will they not always move out of the light/heat when they need to cool down? Or can they not feel themselves getting burned?
 
He has a d3 100 w basking lamp heat uv and light combined this is what I was sold with set up he does look a little brown along his eyebrows and head is this normal colours
 
Nicholasdeaan said:
Will they not always move out of the light/heat when they need to cool down? Or can they not feel themselves getting burned?
Click to expand...

Thermal burns usually occur when a chameleon is too close to their basking light or the enclosure is simply too hot at the basking level. The skin doesn't have to actually touch the bulb to be burned. It is theorized that pain receptors in chameleons are far down in the skin layer so they don’t necessarily know they are getting burned until it is too late.

With the colder weather in the northern hemisphere people tend to change their basking bulbs to a higher wattage to compensate for lower ambient temperatures in their house. Unfortunately the basking spot becomes considerably hotter and burns start. In the wild there are seasonal variations in temperatures and humidity levels and chameleons are quite used to this. Having a slightly cooler period is natural for them.

Cesca said:
He has a d3 100 w basking lamp heat uv and light combined this is what I was sold with set up he does look a little brown along his eyebrows and head is this normal colours
Click to expand...

The brown is normal and will get darker as he ages. The 100w seems a bit high to me but I don’t know about your cage and the rest of your house. It may be perfectly fine for your situation. My suggestion is to buy a temperature gun or a good thermometer to verify whether the basking spot temperature is where it should be.
 
Trace said:
Thermal burns usually occur when a chameleon is too close to their basking light or the enclosure is simply too hot at the basking level. The skin doesn't have to actually touch the bulb to be burned. It is theorized that pain receptors in chameleons are far down in the skin layer so they don’t necessarily know they are getting burned until it is too late.

With the colder weather in the northern hemisphere people tend to change their basking bulbs to a higher wattage to compensate for lower ambient temperatures in their house. Unfortunately the basking spot becomes considerably hotter and burns start. In the wild there are seasonal variations in temperatures and humidity levels and chameleons are quite used to this. Having a slightly cooler period is natural for them.



The brown is normal and will get darker as he ages. The 100w seems a bit high to me but I don’t know about your cage and the rest of your house. It may be perfectly fine for your situation. My suggestion is to buy a temperature gun or a good thermometer to verify whether the basking spot temperature is where it should be.
Click to expand...
 
I'm having trouble uploading pics he has a mesh viv which is large can't find tape measure think about 3 foot high 2 foot width
 
Trace said:
Thermal burns usually occur when a chameleon is too close to their basking light or the enclosure is simply too hot at the basking level. The skin doesn't have to actually touch the bulb to be burned. It is theorized that pain receptors in chameleons are far down in the skin layer so they don’t necessarily know they are getting burned until it is too late.

With the colder weather in the northern hemisphere people tend to change their basking bulbs to a higher wattage to compensate for lower ambient temperatures in their house. Unfortunately the basking spot becomes considerably hotter and burns start. In the wild there are seasonal variations in temperatures and humidity levels and chameleons are quite used to this. Having a slightly cooler period is natural for them.



The brown is normal and will get darker as he ages. The 100w seems a bit high to me but I don’t know about your cage and the rest of your house. It may be perfectly fine for your situation. My suggestion is to buy a temperature gun or a good thermometer to verify whether the basking spot temperature is where it should be.
Click to expand...
 
Trace said:
Thermal burns usually occur when a chameleon is too close to their basking light or the enclosure is simply too hot at the basking level. The skin doesn't have to actually touch the bulb to be burned. It is theorized that pain receptors in chameleons are far down in the skin layer so they don’t necessarily know they are getting burned until it is too late.

With the colder weather in the northern hemisphere people tend to change their basking bulbs to a higher wattage to compensate for lower ambient temperatures in their house. Unfortunately the basking spot becomes considerably hotter and burns start. In the wild there are seasonal variations in temperatures and humidity levels and chameleons are quite used to this. Having a slightly cooler period is natural for them.



The brown is normal and will get darker as he ages. The 100w seems a bit high to me but I don’t know about your cage and the rest of your house. It may be perfectly fine for your situation. My suggestion is to buy a temperature gun or a good thermometer to verify whether the basking spot temperature is where it should be.
Click to expand...
Trace said:
Thermal burns usually occur when a chameleon is too close to their basking light or the enclosure is simply too hot at the basking level. The skin doesn't have to actually touch the bulb to be burned. It is theorized that pain receptors in chameleons are far down in the skin layer so they don’t necessarily know they are getting burned until it is too late.
Click to expand...
Trace said:
Thermal burns usually occur when a chameleon is too close to their basking light or the enclosure is simply too hot at the basking level. The skin doesn't have to actually touch the bulb to be burned. It is theorized that pain receptors in chameleons are far down in the skin layer so they don’t necessarily know they are getting burned until it is too late.

With the colder weather in the northern hemisphere people tend to change their basking bulbs to a higher wattage to compensate for lower ambient temperatures in their house. Unfortunately the basking spot becomes considerably hotter and burns start. In the wild there are seasonal variations in temperatures and humidity levels and chameleons are quite used to this. Having a slightly cooler period is natural for them.



The brown is normal and will get darker as he ages. The 100w seems a bit high to me but I don’t know about your cage and the rest of your house. It may be perfectly fine for your situation. My suggestion is to buy a temperature gun or a good thermometer to verify whether the basking spot temperature is where it should be.
Click to expand...
Thank you I'm glad to know that. And I almost switched to a higher wattage bulb but thought that and didn't. So I guess I did the right thing.
 
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