tail grabbing arm?

[remmy]

After the morning misting, I checked on him before leaving and Remmy had his tail wrapped around his arm and it seemed as if he couldnt get free. I watched him struggle for a bit. I helped him free himself and he seemed fine.

Question is- was this a strange clumsy happening- or should I be worried?
also- I know this might cause him a lot of stress- his coloring seemed to be normal , not showing a lot of stress- but i am just wondering what would have happened if I was not around!

all else seems well- eating and waste products are normal

 

[BocaJan]

Arnold (adult male) has done that from time to time when climbing. It's like they can't tell the difference between branches and their legs. Eventually he figures it out. I would think Remmy would do that also.

 

[Dylan Dutz]

Dont worry, mine does that sometimes. Usually they free themselves but other times they dont. If your cham is healthy and showing regular colors then you have nothing to worry about

 

[joefarah]

would someone please shoot me

 

[Jamie]

would someone please shoot me

Any particular reason?




Remmy, I am not so sure there is nothing to worry about.... Typically chameleons don't get tangled up in themselves to the point they struggle like that. Sure, tail around a leg briefly as they navigate, but it is always immediately corrected and should never hinder their movements.


As always, JMO

 

[desultadox]

would someone please shoot me

If nobody else has yet, I'd be glad to. Even if somebody has already, if the offer's still on the table, I'm down!

 

[joefarah]

If nobody else has yet, I'd be glad to. Even if somebody has already, if the offer's still on the table, I'm down!

Take a number, young lady. There's a long line ahead of you...

 

[Chameleons Northwest]

would someone please shoot me

Joe, I think I know what you are getting at, but you may be mistaken about this post.

Jamie- I agree, Remmy's keeper may be on to something, and may be catching a problem early enough to get it solved.

TO "Remmy"- I looked at your other posts and I do think you may have a problem. I have read that when some chams have health issues, especially Calcium Deficiency, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD- more on in a link below), they may grab their own limbs without realizing it. Loss of sensation in the lower extremities seems to sometimes indicate onset of MBD, or impaction, or some other issue. I have never seen a cham get caught in its own tail, nor have I ever seen someone post about a cham wound up in its own tail. But I have seen posts about MBD sufferers grabbing their own extemities and not letting go.

In reading over your other posts, your cham Remmy seems to have subtle compounding issues. A burn on his head, loss of appetite, and now getting wound up in its own tail. I know the tail thing doesn't sound like much, but in looking at your description of his enclosure it leads me to wonder. Not about you, I can tell you care very much for Remmy and are doing all you can think of to make his life perfect. I am just wondering if a few more minor adjustments should be made.

In one thread you posted info about your husbandry set up for Remmy. In it you describe a flourescent light fixture you use- but you say your were told he had all the UVB he needs. You also describe very low temperature settings. The lack of UVB can lead to calcium problems. And also the low temperatures can effect the cham's ability to metabolize nutrients properly. I do believe you need to make some adjustments. Here are your comments from an earlier thread:

"Cage Info:
Cage Type - mesh screen cage with front opening? What is the size 30x30x18
Lighting - What kind of lighting are you using?Basking light and a long floresent type?I was told that they have all the uv lights they need
How long do you keep the lights on during the day? from 8 am to 9 pm

Temperature - What temperature range have you created? cool areas are low 70s Basking spot temp? not sure What is the temperature at night? low 70s

Humidity - What are your humidity levels? haven't checked this

How are you creating and maintaining these levels? just the watering below

Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? one- ponytail palm

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - veiled, male, and 1 1/2 years.
Feeding - 4 superworms every other day, 4 crickets on alternate days.
gutloading both with oranges/broccoli/celery
dusting worms every time ( which is every other day) with calcium powder ( not sure of the brand)

Watering - spray fake leaves in the morning which are all around the cage and a drip system in the afternoon both with warm/hot water. Do you see your chameleon drinking?- no I have not seen him do this yet-

Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings:
2 yesterday afternoon I found brown lumps, very firm
This morning found one the same size as the lumps but it was half yellowish orange/ half white- it was not compact like the lumps- more like a squiggly lump like frosting on a cake.. if that makes sense!"

Here is a link to a good explanation of MBD: http://www.chameleonsdish.com/health/commonproblems.htm

You do need to get a UVB lamp. I would recommend a Zoo Med 5.0 UVB bulb or similar. NOT A COMPACT COIL (CURLY) TYPE LAMP!

Here is a quote from one of the last posts you wrote:"there was a 75w light and i lowered it to a 50w light- temps now are at 74 in the basking spot. before it was 89."

That temperature is a real problem. I realize you were trying to keep the cham from burning itself. The thing to do is raise the lamp above the enclosure so the cham cannot get close enough to be burned. But do measure the temperature at his level of the basking spot and get it in the 90-95 degree range, at least. Veiled chams like hot temperatures for basking, which is why he got too close and got burned in the first place. It's tricky, but doable- to get the bulb far enough from cage top (just a few inches) so cham can't get burned, but close enough for the right temp range. A 50W bulb probably won't do it for a veiled cham. You may need to raise the bulb farther from the cage (a few inches) and raise the wattage of the bulb.

Also, the description of the poop, feces and urates, sounds like he may be a bit dehydrated. At least during one of his mistings each day you should see him drink. I realize there are chams that are closet drinkers. If he absolutely won't drink while you watch, then just keep an eye on his poops. You want to get it so you have a nice brown lump, that is somewhat smooth and wet on the outside when it first comes out, and a nice white slimey bit to go with it.

Also see about getting a live bushy plant in there such as a schefflera or ficus.