Swollen Eye?? Any Advice is Welcome!!

creolebeans

Member
My Cham’s eye is swollen shut right now. She does have medicine, someone mentioned that I should do my own thread, so I thought I’d give it a try. I am completely open to any and all criticism. She has seen the vet 3 times now, and has two different medicines that she has been one. The first one was Ciprofloxacin and she recieved 2 drops daily. Her eye went down a bit, but then didn't really budge or get smaller. She now has Neomycen, which goes in both nostrils and the affected eye.
 

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Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Copy and paste this into your reply then fill it out with detail. We need pictures of the entire enclosure from the lighting all the way down as well. Is it only one eye or both?

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

creolebeans

Member
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Female, I don't know the exact age, but when I believe she is a little over a year (12-15 months) I've had her for 5 months now
  • Handling -Daily for medicine, but that is a quick in and out thing twice daily. Without medicine its typically once a week, I give her a weekly shower during her cage cleanings.
  • Feeding - I feed gutloaded crickets 3x a week. She gets about 12 each feeding and some worms here and there over the weekend. I feed her around 12-1pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. I bought some calcium fortified gutloading food (Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Diet and Fluker's Cricket Quencher that is calcium fortified) from PetSmart, but I actually want to start gutloading with real veggies and fruit, I'd appreciate some feedback on how to do that.
  • Supplements -I have Repticalcium with and without D3. I use the without almost every feeding and the one with D3 2x a month. I have ZooMed Reptivites with D3 and I use that as one of the 2 feedings with D3
  • Watering - I have The Big Dripper, which I let slowly drip all day. I also mist about 3-4x a day, depending on how often I am home. I usually spray until everything is dripping which is usually about 1:30-2 minutes (I've never really timed it) I see her drink from her dripper throughout the day and from the leaves that I mist.
  • Fecal Description - Her urate is white most of the time, I have never found it to be any shocking color other then a light yellow which tells me she needs more water. Her poop is a soft solid, usually a little wet (slimey kind of). It never has a strong or unusual odor. I have not had her checked for parasites due to my onw forgetfulness, I have however gotten a sample for the upcoming vet appointment.
  • History - She had this lump when I first bought her, and I didn't really pay it any mind because it was so small. I thought it was just something normal, and then a few days later it popped into this giant bubble that sits in the front portion of her eye. The Vet diagnosed it as an abscess and she has medicine. She is currently shedding as well.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Full screen/mesh cage. 24x24x48 (XL Reptibreeze.
  • Lighting - I use a combination of bulbs, I think right now she has a 100 Watt Daylight5 Blue Bulb from ZooMed. (I am noting that a usuer told me to change my UVB setup, and as soon as I get paid, I will change that to the tube bulbs) For now, she ahs a 23 Watt (I think) UVB compact bulb. I have the ZooMed double bulb hood. Her lighting schedule is 9am - 9pm with a few minutes above each (so like 9:03-9:15pm) Her lights are on a timer that turns them on and off.
  • Temperature - Her basking spot temp is usually between 82-88F, The mid section is in the high 70's (76-78F) and the cage floor is low 70's high 60's (She usually settles in for the night around the middle area) I don’t usually find her going to the cage floor, but she has a laying bin down there. The lowest overnight temp is usually 65, I have only ever had it go below once and I think it was about 55F, but I turned on a small heater to get it warmer. I use a thermometer with a probe, and I have one by her basking spot. I also have a thermometer gun that I use regularly to check her temperature as well as the areas around and below her.
  • Humidity - I use a hyrgometer with a probe as well. Her overall humidity never dips below 50, I keep a cool mist humidifier on for most of the day, alongside her dripper and my msiting. The highest that I personally have seen from this cage is 69-70%.
  • Plants - One Golden Pothos in the bottom of the cage to catch the water dripper. I also have a Mass Cane plant, which I am debating taking out all together because she doesn't seem interested in climbing on it.
  • Placement - The cage is located by my closet, the window is about 5ft away. There isn't a draft that can reach her from the window. She is in the corner of my room where I go to the least and if I open my closet doors, she is hidden from view. The top of her cage is 4ft off the ground.
  • Location - I live in the midwest, Missouri.
Current Problem - Husbandry check and her eye is swollen shut. It is still swollen shut as of today. This will be day 2 of her eye being swollen shut. She has a vet appointment for Tuesday.

Here is a photo of the whole cage

the infected eye is her left one when she is facing me. It is only in the left eye. The right eye is completely fine. I will try and get a picture form todya of her eye when I can. I don’t want to bother her or stress her out more with handling or anything.
 

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Last edited:

creolebeans

Member
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Female, I don't know the exact age, but when I believe she is a little over a year (12-15 months) I've had her for 5 months now
  • Handling -Daily for medicine, but that is a quick in and out thing twice daily. Without medicine its typically once a week, I give her a weekly shower during her cage cleanings.
  • Feeding - I feed gutloaded crickets 3x a week. She gets about 12 each feeding and some worms here and there over the weekend. I feed her around 12-1pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. I bought some calcium fortified gutloading food (Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Diet and Fluker's Cricket Quencher that is calcium fortified) from PetSmart, but I actually want to start gutloading with real veggies and fruit, I'd appreciate some feedback on how to do that.
  • Supplements -I have Repticalcium with and without D3. I use the without almost every feeding and the one with D3 2x a month. I have ZooMed Reptivites with D3 and I use that as one of the 2 feedings with D3
  • Watering - I have The Big Dripper, which I let slowly drip all day. I also mist about 3-4x a day, depending on how often I am home. I usually spray until everything is dripping which is usually about 1:30-2 minutes (I've never really timed it) I see her drink from her dripper throughout the day and from the leaves that I mist.
  • Fecal Description - Her urate is white most of the time, I have never found it to be any shocking color other then a light yellow which tells me she needs more water. Her poop is a soft solid, usually a little wet (slimey kind of). It never has a strong or unusual odor. I have not had her checked for parasites due to my onw forgetfulness, I have however gotten a sample for the upcoming vet appointment.
  • History - She had this lump when I first bought her, and I didn't really pay it any mind because it was so small. I thought it was just something normal, and then a few days later it popped into this giant bubble that sits in the front portion of her eye. The Vet diagnosed it as an abscess and she has medicine. She is currently shedding as well.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Full screen/mesh cage. 24x24x48 (XL Reptibreeze.
  • Lighting - I use a combination of bulbs, I think right now she has a 100 Watt Daylight5 Blue Bulb from ZooMed. (I am noting that a usuer told me to change my UVB setup, and as soon as I get paid, I will change that to the tube bulbs) For now, she ahs a 23 Watt (I think) UVB compact bulb. I have the ZooMed double bulb hood. Her lighting schedule is 9am - 9pm with a few minutes above each (so like 9:03-9:15pm) Her lights are on a timer that turns them on and off.
  • Temperature - Her basking spot temp is usually between 82-88F, The mid section is in the high 70's (76-78F) and the cage floor is low 70's high 60's (She usually settles in for the night around the middle area) I don’t usually find her going to the cage floor, but she has a laying bin down there. The lowest overnight temp is usually 65, I have only ever had it go below once and I think it was about 55F, but I turned on a small heater to get it warmer. I use a thermometer with a probe, and I have one by her basking spot. I also have a thermometer gun that I use regularly to check her temperature as well as the areas around and below her.
  • Humidity - I use a hyrgometer with a probe as well. Her overall humidity never dips below 50, I keep a cool mist humidifier on for most of the day, alongside her dripper and my msiting. The highest that I personally have seen from this cage is 69-70%.
  • Plants - One Golden Pothos in the bottom of the cage to catch the water dripper. I also have a Mass Cane plant, which I am debating taking out all together because she doesn't seem interested in climbing on it.
  • Placement - The cage is located by my closet, the window is about 5ft away. There isn't a draft that can reach her from the window. She is in the corner of my room where I go to the least and if I open my closet doors, she is hidden from view. The top of her cage is 4ft off the ground.
  • Location - I live in the midwest, Missouri.
Current Problem - Husbandry check and her eye is swollen shut. It is still swollen shut as of today. This will be day 2 of her eye being swollen shut. She has a vet appointment for Tuesday.

Here is a photo of the whole cage

the infected eye is her left one when she is facing me. It is only in the left eye. The right eye is completely fine. I will try and get a picture form todya of her eye when I can. I don’t want to bother her or stress her out more with handling or anything.
Here is her left eye (the infected one) from today. It swelled up yesterday and has continued today. Is there anyway I can help her get it back open? Or at least make it was irritated? This happened once before but I couldn’t get to the vet due to snow. The first time it happened , it was only swollen for a few hours.
 

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Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Female, I don't know the exact age, but when I believe she is a little over a year (12-15 months) I've had her for 5 months now
  • Handling -Daily for medicine, but that is a quick in and out thing twice daily. Without medicine its typically once a week, I give her a weekly shower during her cage cleanings.
  • Feeding - I feed gutloaded crickets 3x a week. She gets about 12 each feeding and some worms here and there over the weekend. I feed her around 12-1pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. I bought some calcium fortified gutloading food (Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Diet and Fluker's Cricket Quencher that is calcium fortified) from PetSmart, but I actually want to start gutloading with real veggies and fruit, I'd appreciate some feedback on how to do that.
  • Supplements -I have Repticalcium with and without D3. I use the without almost every feeding and the one with D3 2x a month. I have ZooMed Reptivites with D3 and I use that as one of the 2 feedings with D3
  • Watering - I have The Big Dripper, which I let slowly drip all day. I also mist about 3-4x a day, depending on how often I am home. I usually spray until everything is dripping which is usually about 1:30-2 minutes (I've never really timed it) I see her drink from her dripper throughout the day and from the leaves that I mist.
  • Fecal Description - Her urate is white most of the time, I have never found it to be any shocking color other then a light yellow which tells me she needs more water. Her poop is a soft solid, usually a little wet (slimey kind of). It never has a strong or unusual odor. I have not had her checked for parasites due to my onw forgetfulness, I have however gotten a sample for the upcoming vet appointment.
  • History - She had this lump when I first bought her, and I didn't really pay it any mind because it was so small. I thought it was just something normal, and then a few days later it popped into this giant bubble that sits in the front portion of her eye. The Vet diagnosed it as an abscess and she has medicine. She is currently shedding as well.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Full screen/mesh cage. 24x24x48 (XL Reptibreeze.
  • Lighting - I use a combination of bulbs, I think right now she has a 100 Watt Daylight5 Blue Bulb from ZooMed. (I am noting that a usuer told me to change my UVB setup, and as soon as I get paid, I will change that to the tube bulbs) For now, she ahs a 23 Watt (I think) UVB compact bulb. I have the ZooMed double bulb hood. Her lighting schedule is 9am - 9pm with a few minutes above each (so like 9:03-9:15pm) Her lights are on a timer that turns them on and off.
  • Temperature - Her basking spot temp is usually between 82-88F, The mid section is in the high 70's (76-78F) and the cage floor is low 70's high 60's (She usually settles in for the night around the middle area) I don’t usually find her going to the cage floor, but she has a laying bin down there. The lowest overnight temp is usually 65, I have only ever had it go below once and I think it was about 55F, but I turned on a small heater to get it warmer. I use a thermometer with a probe, and I have one by her basking spot. I also have a thermometer gun that I use regularly to check her temperature as well as the areas around and below her.
  • Humidity - I use a hyrgometer with a probe as well. Her overall humidity never dips below 50, I keep a cool mist humidifier on for most of the day, alongside her dripper and my msiting. The highest that I personally have seen from this cage is 69-70%.
  • Plants - One Golden Pothos in the bottom of the cage to catch the water dripper. I also have a Mass Cane plant, which I am debating taking out all together because she doesn't seem interested in climbing on it.
  • Placement - The cage is located by my closet, the window is about 5ft away. There isn't a draft that can reach her from the window. She is in the corner of my room where I go to the least and if I open my closet doors, she is hidden from view. The top of her cage is 4ft off the ground.
  • Location - I live in the midwest, Missouri.
Current Problem - Husbandry check and her eye is swollen shut. It is still swollen shut as of today. This will be day 2 of her eye being swollen shut. She has a vet appointment for Tuesday.

Here is a photo of the whole cage

the infected eye is her left one when she is facing me. It is only in the left eye. The right eye is completely fine. I will try and get a picture form todya of her eye when I can. I don’t want to bother her or stress her out more with handling or anything.
Give me a few to go through everything... There are quite a few things husbandry wise that are not correct for a female.

Has she laid eggs yet? Did the vet flush the eye or only give you drops?
 

creolebeans

Member
Th
Give me a few to go through everything... There are quite a few things husbandry wise that are not correct for a female.

Has she laid eggs yet? Did the vet flush the eye or only give you drops?
The vet flushed her eye the first time around and no she hasn’t laid a clutch, but she has a bin ready and I’ve seen her check it out multiple times. I’ve never noticed any wacky weight gains or losses and she doesn’t have any lumps that show eggs
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
@creolebeans

See all by feedback in bold... Looks as though she may have something stuck in it since it is only one eye or she has a bacterial infection that is affecting the eye. But you have multiple husbandry areas that should be corrected. Hopefully your vet is an exotic vet and has experience with chameleons. If they are not I recommend taking her to a vet that is. Often Vets that do not have the experience will not be able to actually help and can make a health issue worse.
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Female, I don't know the exact age, but when I believe she is a little over a year (12-15 months) I've had her for 5 months now
  • Handling -Daily for medicine, but that is a quick in and out thing twice daily. Without medicine its typically once a week, I give her a weekly shower during her cage cleanings. Really for a healthy cham this should not be done.
  • Feeding - I feed gutloaded crickets 3x a week. She gets about 12 each feeding and some worms here and there over the weekend. I feed her around 12-1pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. I bought some calcium fortified gutloading food (Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Diet and Fluker's Cricket Quencher that is calcium fortified) from PetSmart, but I actually want to start gutloading with real veggies and fruit, I'd appreciate some feedback on how to do that. See the image below on gutload. Now for the feeding she is getting way too much. She should only be getting 3 feeders 3 days a week. No more then that. Food intake and basking temps directly impact clutch size. We reduce both to produce smaller clutches that they can easily lay without complications.
  • Supplements -I have Repticalcium with and without D3. I use the without almost every feeding and the one with D3 2x a month. I have ZooMed Reptivites with D3 and I use that as one of the 2 feedings with D3.. Supplementation is incorrect. you are giving too much D3. You want to drop the calcium with D3 and use the Reptivite with D3 two times a month. Say the 1st and the 15th. Then at all other feedings you will use calcium without D3.
  • Watering - I have The Big Dripper, which I let slowly drip all day. I also mist about 3-4x a day, depending on how often I am home. I usually spray until everything is dripping which is usually about 1:30-2 minutes (I've never really timed it) I see her drink from her dripper throughout the day and from the leaves that I mist. You only want to mist morning and evening when temps in the cage are cooler. Anywhere from 2-4 minutes each time. This will also be long enough to trigger her to clean her eye. Do not spray her directly but in the area she is in and see if she tries to clean it.
  • Fecal Description - Her urate is white most of the time, I have never found it to be any shocking color other then a light yellow which tells me she needs more water. Her poop is a soft solid, usually a little wet (slimey kind of). It never has a strong or unusual odor. I have not had her checked for parasites due to my onw forgetfulness, I have however gotten a sample for the upcoming vet appointment. good. But this needs to be a fresh sample that is no older then 24 hours.
  • History - She had this lump when I first bought her, and I didn't really pay it any mind because it was so small. I thought it was just something normal, and then a few days later it popped into this giant bubble that sits in the front portion of her eye. The Vet diagnosed it as an abscess and she has medicine. She is currently shedding as well.



Cage Info:


  • Cage Type - Full screen/mesh cage. 24x24x48 (XL Reptibreeze.
  • Lighting - I use a combination of bulbs, I think right now she has a 100 Watt Daylight5 Blue Bulb from ZooMed. (I am noting that a usuer told me to change my UVB setup, and as soon as I get paid, I will change that to the tube bulbs) For now, she ahs a 23 Watt (I think) UVB compact bulb. I have the ZooMed double bulb hood. Her lighting schedule is 9am - 9pm with a few minutes above each (so like 9:03-9:15pm) Her lights are on a timer that turns them on and off. So the UVB bulb you have leads to many issues in chameleons. MBD being the main one. But for females this is particularly dangerous due to egg laying. You need to buy a T5HO fixture with a 5.0 bulb and the basking branch should be 8-9 inches down below this fixture for the correct UVB exposure. This is an imeadiate change that needs to happen. Here is a link to learn more about MBD> https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-medical-metabolic-bone-disease/
  • Temperature - Her basking spot temp is usually between 82-88F, The mid section is in the high 70's (76-78F) and the cage floor is low 70's high 60's (She usually settles in for the night around the middle area) I don’t usually find her going to the cage floor, but she has a laying bin down there. The lowest overnight temp is usually 65, I have only ever had it go below once and I think it was about 55F, but I turned on a small heater to get it warmer. I use a thermometer with a probe, and I have one by her basking spot. I also have a thermometer gun that I use regularly to check her temperature as well as the areas around and below her. Basking is way too hot. Should be 78-80 MAX. Temps and food intake directly impact the amount of eggs they lay. The rest of your temps are good. Veileds actually need the night time temp drop and should not have heat added to the room unless your dealing with temps below 50.
  • Humidity - I use a hyrgometer with a probe as well. Her overall humidity never dips below 50, I keep a cool mist humidifier on for most of the day, alongside her dripper and my msiting. The highest that I personally have seen from this cage is 69-70%. Humidity should not be this high during the day. It should be 30-40% then at night it can be up to 100% with air flow. You should not be running a humidifier into the cage during the day. This can cause them to develop a respiratory infection due to the moist hot air. Also it does not allow for the cage to dry out during the day. You want to only run the humidifier at night when lights are off and temps are well below 68.
  • Plants - One Golden Pothos in the bottom of the cage to catch the water dripper. I also have a Mass Cane plant, which I am debating taking out all together because she doesn't seem interested in climbing on it. Fake plants are very dangerous with veileds because they will try to eat them. They pose an impaction risk. Link to plants. Choose the Veiled safe plants. https://chameleonacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Chameleon-Plants-122819.pdf
  • Placement - The cage is located by my closet, the window is about 5ft away. There isn't a draft that can reach her from the window. She is in the corner of my room where I go to the least and if I open my closet doors, she is hidden from view. The top of her cage is 4ft off the ground.
  • Location - I live in the midwest, Missouri.
Current Problem - Husbandry check and her eye is swollen shut. It is still swollen shut as of today. This will be day 2 of her eye being swollen shut. She has a vet appointment for Tuesday.

Start reading this husbandry program to learn accurate info https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

https://www.chameleonbreeder.com/

https://www.youtube.com/c/NeptunetheChameleon?sub_confirmation=1

www.dragonstrand.com they sell cages, drip pans, and dragon ledges for mounting plants and branches higher.

https://tkchameleons.com/collections/accessories/products/shooting-gallery


chameleon-gutload.jpg
chameleon-food(1).jpg
laybin graphic.jpg
 

creolebeans

Member
@creolebeans

See all by feedback in bold... Looks as though she may have something stuck in it since it is only one eye or she has a bacterial infection that is affecting the eye. But you have multiple husbandry areas that should be corrected. Hopefully your vet is an exotic vet and has experience with chameleons. If they are not I recommend taking her to a vet that is. Often Vets that do not have the experience will not be able to actually help and can make a health issue worse.
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Female, I don't know the exact age, but when I believe she is a little over a year (12-15 months) I've had her for 5 months now
  • Handling -Daily for medicine, but that is a quick in and out thing twice daily. Without medicine its typically once a week, I give her a weekly shower during her cage cleanings. Really for a healthy cham this should not be done.
  • Feeding - I feed gutloaded crickets 3x a week. She gets about 12 each feeding and some worms here and there over the weekend. I feed her around 12-1pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. I bought some calcium fortified gutloading food (Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Diet and Fluker's Cricket Quencher that is calcium fortified) from PetSmart, but I actually want to start gutloading with real veggies and fruit, I'd appreciate some feedback on how to do that. See the image below on gutload. Now for the feeding she is getting way too much. She should only be getting 3 feeders 3 days a week. No more then that. Food intake and basking temps directly impact clutch size. We reduce both to produce smaller clutches that they can easily lay without complications.
  • Supplements -I have Repticalcium with and without D3. I use the without almost every feeding and the one with D3 2x a month. I have ZooMed Reptivites with D3 and I use that as one of the 2 feedings with D3.. Supplementation is incorrect. you are giving too much D3. You want to drop the calcium with D3 and use the Reptivite with D3 two times a month. Say the 1st and the 15th. Then at all other feedings you will use calcium without D3.
  • Watering - I have The Big Dripper, which I let slowly drip all day. I also mist about 3-4x a day, depending on how often I am home. I usually spray until everything is dripping which is usually about 1:30-2 minutes (I've never really timed it) I see her drink from her dripper throughout the day and from the leaves that I mist. You only want to mist morning and evening when temps in the cage are cooler. Anywhere from 2-4 minutes each time. This will also be long enough to trigger her to clean her eye. Do not spray her directly but in the area she is in and see if she tries to clean it.
  • Fecal Description - Her urate is white most of the time, I have never found it to be any shocking color other then a light yellow which tells me she needs more water. Her poop is a soft solid, usually a little wet (slimey kind of). It never has a strong or unusual odor. I have not had her checked for parasites due to my onw forgetfulness, I have however gotten a sample for the upcoming vet appointment. good. But this needs to be a fresh sample that is no older then 24 hours.
  • History - She had this lump when I first bought her, and I didn't really pay it any mind because it was so small. I thought it was just something normal, and then a few days later it popped into this giant bubble that sits in the front portion of her eye. The Vet diagnosed it as an abscess and she has medicine. She is currently shedding as well.



Cage Info:


  • Cage Type - Full screen/mesh cage. 24x24x48 (XL Reptibreeze.
  • Lighting - I use a combination of bulbs, I think right now she has a 100 Watt Daylight5 Blue Bulb from ZooMed. (I am noting that a usuer told me to change my UVB setup, and as soon as I get paid, I will change that to the tube bulbs) For now, she ahs a 23 Watt (I think) UVB compact bulb. I have the ZooMed double bulb hood. Her lighting schedule is 9am - 9pm with a few minutes above each (so like 9:03-9:15pm) Her lights are on a timer that turns them on and off. So the UVB bulb you have leads to many issues in chameleons. MBD being the main one. But for females this is particularly dangerous due to egg laying. You need to buy a T5HO fixture with a 5.0 bulb and the basking branch should be 8-9 inches down below this fixture for the correct UVB exposure. This is an imeadiate change that needs to happen. Here is a link to learn more about MBD> https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-medical-metabolic-bone-disease/
  • Temperature - Her basking spot temp is usually between 82-88F, The mid section is in the high 70's (76-78F) and the cage floor is low 70's high 60's (She usually settles in for the night around the middle area) I don’t usually find her going to the cage floor, but she has a laying bin down there. The lowest overnight temp is usually 65, I have only ever had it go below once and I think it was about 55F, but I turned on a small heater to get it warmer. I use a thermometer with a probe, and I have one by her basking spot. I also have a thermometer gun that I use regularly to check her temperature as well as the areas around and below her. Basking is way too hot. Should be 78-80 MAX. Temps and food intake directly impact the amount of eggs they lay. The rest of your temps are good. Veileds actually need the night time temp drop and should not have heat added to the room unless your dealing with temps below 50.
  • Humidity - I use a hyrgometer with a probe as well. Her overall humidity never dips below 50, I keep a cool mist humidifier on for most of the day, alongside her dripper and my msiting. The highest that I personally have seen from this cage is 69-70%. Humidity should not be this high during the day. It should be 30-40% then at night it can be up to 100% with air flow. You should not be running a humidifier into the cage during the day. This can cause them to develop a respiratory infection due to the moist hot air. Also it does not allow for the cage to dry out during the day. You want to only run the humidifier at night when lights are off and temps are well below 68.
  • Plants - One Golden Pothos in the bottom of the cage to catch the water dripper. I also have a Mass Cane plant, which I am debating taking out all together because she doesn't seem interested in climbing on it. Fake plants are very dangerous with veileds because they will try to eat them. They pose an impaction risk. Link to plants. Choose the Veiled safe plants. https://chameleonacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Chameleon-Plants-122819.pdf
  • Placement - The cage is located by my closet, the window is about 5ft away. There isn't a draft that can reach her from the window. She is in the corner of my room where I go to the least and if I open my closet doors, she is hidden from view. The top of her cage is 4ft off the ground.
  • Location - I live in the midwest, Missouri.
Current Problem - Husbandry check and her eye is swollen shut. It is still swollen shut as of today. This will be day 2 of her eye being swollen shut. She has a vet appointment for Tuesday.

Start reading this husbandry program to learn accurate info https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

https://www.chameleonbreeder.com/

https://www.youtube.com/c/NeptunetheChameleon?sub_confirmation=1

www.dragonstrand.com they sell cages, drip pans, and dragon ledges for mounting plants and branches higher.

https://tkchameleons.com/collections/accessories/products/shooting-gallery


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Handling- I guess I should have phrased that better, I take her into the shower with me for the humidity, if that makes sense, she sits above the water where the steam and stuff can reach her, should I stop doing that? Or lessen it to every other week or something like that?
Feeding - should I cut back on the worms then or is the 12 crickets every 3 days too much?
Supplements - okay so get rid of the Repti-calcium with D3 and just use the Reptivite and without?
Watering - I don’t usually spray her directly, but I can try to get a smaller nozzle for her and try to keep the stream next to her.
Fecal - I plan on getting another sample if I can find one!
Lighting -I know the local dedicated reptile stores has this kind, I can go up there and ask for it and I’m sure they’ll point me in the right direction. I’ll try to get it changed by Monday. Money is tight, but I can try and get the stuff together.
Temperature - So should I get a lower wattage bulb? I have a 75 and a 60Watt here right now, should I change it out tonight?
Humidity - okay, humidifier at night got it, so only 2x a day for misting? When she wakes up and before she goes to bed?
Plants - I’ve never seen her try to eat the plants, but I can work on removing them. It’s dead winter right now so i don’t have many options for live plants. I’ll check to see, I know people get Ficus trees, but those aren’t available as of right now. I’ve never seen her try to eat the fake ones, but I’ll take them out!

Do I need to change anything else? She has bamboo sticks that are across her cage for her to stand on and the vines are eco terra. Should I remove them and find a different kind? Would they be okay to have in there until I can get a live tree she can actually stand on?
 
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creolebeans

Member
Yes, of her .
Here’s the photos of her, sorry they’re not the greatest. She’s difficult to photograph, I’ve never noticed her doing any of the signs of a pregnant Cham
 

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Shanar808

Avid Member
I’ve heard of chameleon owners have problems with the exoterra vines bothering chameleon eyes. When they try to remove debris it will just add more to it. That may be an issue, along with your higher day humidity possibly causing mold growth on the vine as well. Oh btw you state that the top of your cage is 4ft from the floor, with a 4ft tall cage that means your chameleons enclosure is on the floor and that is a bit low. You will want your chameleons basking at/above your standing eye level. Hope this helps and hope your little one gets better soon ☺️
 

creolebeans

Member
I’ve heard of chameleon owners have problems with the exoterra vines bothering chameleon eyes. When they try to remove debris it will just add more to it. That may be an issue, along with your higher day humidity possibly causing mold growth on the vine as well. Oh btw you state that the top of your cage is 4ft from the floor, with a 4ft tall cage that means your chameleons enclosure is on the floor and that is a bit low. You will want your chameleons basking at/above your standing eye level. Hope this helps and hope your little one gets better soon ☺️
I’ve been on the look out for an affordable coffee table to hoist her up onto, but I’m a broke 19yo college kid 😅 I’ll be cleaning her cage this coming week after the vet and I’m planning on removing anything that can cause debris or has small parts that can be ingested!
 

Shanar808

Avid Member
I’ve been on the look out for an affordable coffee table to hoist her up onto, but I’m a broke 19yo college kid 😅 I’ll be cleaning her cage this coming week after the vet and I’m planning on removing anything that can cause debris or has small parts that can be ingested!
Ok that’s alright, if you can find any good branches that would be great for cutting costs. If you have (or dumpster dive) a dresser/tv stand/cabinet/metal wire shelving unit would work great. I love checking my areas Craigslist for “free stuff” and you’d be saving the planet too. ☺️
 

creolebeans

Member
Ok that’s alright, if you can find any good branches that would be great for cutting costs. If you have (or dumpster dive) a dresser/tv stand/cabinet/metal wire shelving unit would work great. I love checking my areas Craigslist for “free stuff” and you’d be saving the planet too. ☺️
I’ve been on the look out for branches, but we just had a big snow storm, so I’m out of luck until it all melts! And yes! I’ve been keeping an eye out at goodwill and things like that just so I don’t have to spend a ton on something brand new! I’ll look around sometime soon for a wire shelving thing, that might be a good alernative
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
@creolebeans See feedback in bold.

Handling- I guess I should have phrased that better, I take her into the shower with me for the humidity, if that makes sense, she sits above the water where the steam and stuff can reach her, should I stop doing that? Or lessen it to every other week or something like that? You do not want to do this at all. It is hot steam... This is not safe for them to breathe in at all. Leads to risk of a respiratory infection. In the wild they would never get exposed to this. When fog comes in it is because temps have dropped so it is very cool.
Feeding
- should I cut back on the worms then or is the 12 crickets every 3 days too much? So in all no matter what feeder you give you want it to be 3 feeders 3 days a week. No more then that. So 1 hornworm and 2 crickets. etc.
Supplements
- okay so get rid of the Repti-calcium with D3 and just use the Reptivite and without? Yes, because your reptivite is the D3 multivitamin Version and they should only have calcium with D3 two times a month, every other week due to it being fat soluble. Then all other feedings your using the calcium without D3.
Watering
- I don’t usually spray her directly, but I can try to get a smaller nozzle for her and try to keep the stream next to her. Might look into an auto mister for the future like a mistking. These produce and extremely fine spray that most chams really enjoy.
Fecal
- I plan on getting another sample if I can find one!
Lighting -I know the local dedicated reptile stores has this kind, I can go up there and ask for it and I’m sure they’ll point me in the right direction. I’ll try to get it changed by Monday. Money is tight, but I can try and get the stuff together. The UVB is the most important thing that you have to change. So this is where I would focus money on. Otherwise the health risks will be obvious and then you deal with a ton more medical issues.
Temperature
- So should I get a lower wattage bulb? I have a 75 and a 60Watt here right now, should I change it out tonight? Yes a regular incandescent bulb is what you want. You may need to raise the fixture to get the right temps since her foliage and branches sit much higher in the cage. You want it sitting at 78 at the basking branch below the heat bulb.
Humidity
- okay, humidifier at night got it, so only 2x a day for misting? When she wakes up and before she goes to bed? Exactly a good 2 minutes or more coating all the plants morning and night.
Plants -
I’ve never seen her try to eat the plants, but I can work on removing them. It’s dead winter right now so i don’t have many options for live plants. I’ll check to see, I know people get Ficus trees, but those aren’t available as of right now. I’ve never seen her try to eat the fake ones, but I’ll take them out! Your best bet for finding indoor plants will be lowes or home depot in their indoor plants section.

Do I need to change anything else? She has bamboo sticks that are across her cage for her to stand on and the vines are eco terra. Should I remove them and find a different kind? Would they be okay to have in there until I can get a live tree she can actually stand on? You will still need branches and vines even with the tree. But if you have to use any fake vines you want the flukers brand only. They do not flake and peel the way others do.


Reading through this will make all the info come together for you. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
 
I’ve been on the look out for an affordable coffee table to hoist her up onto, but I’m a broke 19yo college kid 😅 I’ll be cleaning her cage this coming week after the vet and I’m planning on removing anything that can cause debris or has small parts that can be ingested!
You could always look for some cheap lumber and throw a simple stand together. Check a building material resale store or home depot . Just a thought . Home depot sells 8foot 2x4s for like 6 bucks .you'd need like 4 of them so like 24 bucks.you might even find some free lumber in your local classifieds.
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
You can use something as simple as cinder blocks to get the cage up... Hit up thrift stores for an old desk or table.

Honestly though other expenses need to come first like the UVB lighting and changing out the items in the cage that are incorrect.

Right now focusing on the health issues and making the enclosure correct... Since she is a female we have to ensure that husbandry is corrected due to her laying eggs. We have to get the issues of the eye sorted so there is not further damage.
 

creolebeans

Member
You can use something as simple as cinder blocks to get the cage up... Hit up thrift stores for an old desk or table.

Honestly though other expenses need to come first like the UVB lighting and changing out the items in the cage that are incorrect.

Right now focusing on the health issues and making the enclosure correct... Since she is a female we have to ensure that husbandry is corrected due to her laying eggs. We have to get the issues of the eye sorted so there is not further damage.
I went out last night and bought the T5HO with a 5.0 bulb! It’s set up now, I also moved her branches down to about 8-9inches below the light. Her basking spot read 81 last i check and I changed it to a 60Watt for now until I can change the type of bulb. I also took out the fake plants that had detachable parts.

I’m not done yet with the cage and things, but I’m also busy with life and other personal things! I’m going to spend today working on other little things, for starters I changed the watering schedule today and I had the humidifier running (across the room) all night
 
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