Supplement rotation

JlaPinska

Member
I have Rep-Cal Herptivite and Rep-Cal with d3. How often should I be rotating them for my veiled? I was told it would work out no matter how i do it. I rotate them every other day.. Is that alright? He seems happy and is plumping up but i don't want to do anything that could harm him. He is my first cham.
 
I thought you only wanted to give calcium every day and calcium with d3 twice a month and mulit vitamin twice a month.
 
thats what i read from the pinned thread but a herp friend of mine said as long as you rotate them then itll work out. I'm just not sure. Waiting for more opinions?
 
I dont either, now im confused. I have had my veiled for 3 weeks and he has doubled in size. Was tiny when we got him but now is a fat little thing and at least an inch longer. Almost have his new home done. Hooked up my misting system on it tonight. Just need a few more vines and he will be set.
 
haha. i have had mine about the same amount of time except i bought him as a sub adult and he has grown a lot too. so far ive gotten about 3 different opinions and everyone says they use plain calcium, a multivit w/o d3, and calcium w/d3. so i guess you do use all 3 but i was also just told that if you are gut loading the feeders properly then you dont have to worry quite as much about giving the plain calcium dustings. i guess as long as they are growing and thriving then we are doing ok.


doesn't hurt to hear more replies though :) they are a huge investment and i want to make sure he is getting top-notch treatment. he is my "baby" lol
 
i decided to do a dripper system and i'm glad i did. but i also have 7 live plants in his cage so with the dripper + hand-misting 3x per day, his cage stays pretty wet and humid. i drilled holes under his ficus tree and the water drains into a bin. i plan to put one more live plant i just cant decide what one
 
Here is a simple truth about overdoing it with supplements, you might not have a problem until months have gone by if you over do it.


I personally put calcium on food items about 4-5 days a week.

Once every other week I use Repashy calcium medium D3

Once every other week I use Repashy multivitamin / Mineral supplement.

That's what I do. Do as you wish or what you feel works for you. There are many folks on these forums who have dealt with D3 overdosing as well as other issues related to supplementation, you can either re-invent the wheel and learn by experience or seek out some of that info as you have with this post.
 
My rotation

Personally, I give my nosy be panth d3 once a week, calcium w/out d3 3 times a week, and herp every other Sunday. Seems to keep him happy and healthy
 
Here is the reasoning behind us recommending dusting with a phos. free calcium powder at most feedings, phos. free calcium with D3 twice a month and a vitamin powder with a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A twice a month, gutloading/feeding insects properly, providing appropriate temperatures and proper UVB lighting for the umpteenth time.

Since many of the feeder insects we use have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. we dust with a phos. free calcium powder to help make up for it.

To ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 from supplements without overdosing it, we dust twice a month with a phos. free calcium/D3 powder. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues. D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light will not as long as the chameleon has the opportunity to move in and out of it at will.

We recommend a vitamin powder with a beta carotene source of vitamin A because prEformed vitamin A can build up in the system and lead to health issues. This leaves the owner to decide if/when the chameleon needs a little prEformed vitamin A.

Crickets, locusts, roaches, superworms can be gutloaded with/fed a wide assortment of greens such as dandelions, collards, endive, escarole, kale, etc. and veggies such as carrots, squash, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc. Feeding the insects well will help give the chameleon the nutrients it needs.

Providing appropriate temperatures will aid in digestion and thus nutrient absorption.

All of this together should help you have a healthy chameleon.

You can do things other ways but if its not within the right parameters you will suddenly find yourself with a lot of health issues in your chameleon....just because it appears to be doing well when you first start doing it a different way doesn't mean it won't lead to issues eventually where as following the most often recommended ways, used by many of us for long periods of time and with lots of chameleons seems to produce healthy long-lived chameleons. The choice is yours.
 
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