Superworm?
- Thread starter gerhartrx
- Start date
gerhartrx
New Member
Thanks!
He loves the crix at this point but I figure I needed to plan ahead. I was not anticipating in the first couple weeks and he started to close one eye after he shed (did not expect that so quick) then he started closing the other eye.
With the help from this site I started misting him much more than the automatic mister was (4 times daily). In addition to misting I did not want to mess around so I also ordered Terramycin online and have been applying this once a day to both eyes for the past three days. I also turned the night light on to increase heat. After doing all the above he is doing much better thankfully! (My wife would kill me if he dies. Not because she loves him more but because I have speant over $400 on everything to start out).
He loves the crix at this point but I figure I needed to plan ahead. I was not anticipating in the first couple weeks and he started to close one eye after he shed (did not expect that so quick) then he started closing the other eye.
With the help from this site I started misting him much more than the automatic mister was (4 times daily). In addition to misting I did not want to mess around so I also ordered Terramycin online and have been applying this once a day to both eyes for the past three days. I also turned the night light on to increase heat. After doing all the above he is doing much better thankfully! (My wife would kill me if he dies. Not because she loves him more but because I have speant over $400 on everything to start out).
suzi
Avid Member
IMO I would shut off the night light, they need there sleep, if you really need a heat source at night you are better off with a ceramic heater( they do not produce light) but unless your house is dropping into the 50's at night heat is not necessary. Have you ever filled out this form?
https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
gerhartrx
New Member
Lighting
No I have not filled out the form. The lights are all on timer so he does not get all the light all the time. During the day both lights (Basking, heat lamp, and night heat lamp) are on. During the night just the night (red light) is on. He has his little spot and sleeps real well. Wont even wake up if I am in the room. Kinf of cute the way he sleeps.
No I have not filled out the form. The lights are all on timer so he does not get all the light all the time. During the day both lights (Basking, heat lamp, and night heat lamp) are on. During the night just the night (red light) is on. He has his little spot and sleeps real well. Wont even wake up if I am in the room. Kinf of cute the way he sleeps.
suzi
Avid Member
What is recommended is a reptisun tube 5.0 light which is your UVB light, a basking light which can be a regular 60 watt household bulb, no light at night, red bulbs are not recommended. Do you have a digital temperature Gage to measure temps and humidity? You can get a dual one for 10 bucks at lowes or home depot. What brand UVB are you using?
suzi
Avid Member
He is very cute! I would fill out the form so we can get a look at your supplementing schedule and give you some advice on gutloading your crickets and temperatures and whatnot how long have you had him? A dripper for water is a good idea and you should probably look draining solutions, after all the misting you will need it
I would fill out the form so we can get a look at your supplementing schedule and give you some advice on gutloading your crickets and temperatures and whatnot how long have you had him? A dripper for water is a good idea and you should probably look draining solutions, after all the misting you will need it
sandrachameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
I support the comments above - improvements you could make:
no night light, reptisun or reptiglo linear tube 5.0 for the UVB, variety of feeders (not just crickets) that are properly gutloaded, live plants.
no night light, reptisun or reptiglo linear tube 5.0 for the UVB, variety of feeders (not just crickets) that are properly gutloaded, live plants.
gerhartrx
New Member
Information you asked for
Suzi. Here is the info you asked for.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon – Veiled Chameleon (Yemen Chameleon),Male, 3-4 months old. I have had him for about one month.
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Usually I will handle him only when needed. Lately since he had the eye problem I have been handling daily. He does not like me to retrieve him by hand so I have a piece of bamboo with fake shrubs on it that he will climb on. I shower him with this and apply the medicine.
Feeding – Crickets ¼ inch. 8-10 a day @ 10:00 am. The crickets get the normal Fluker’s high calcium dry food with Fluker’s Orange Cube. The 8 – 10 are placed in a separate container the night before with baby food (sweet potatoes – wet, mixed veigs – wet and baby cereal with sweet potato. I mix all this together in a small lid and leave the crickets to feast on that overnight.
Supplements – I use Sticky Tongue Farms Miner-all every other day
Watering – I have a Habba mist machine that mists the middle of the cage down the plants every three hours for 30 seconds. I also mist with warm to room temp water three additional time until all the plants are dripping. The cage dries out between misting.
Fecal Description – Droppings are white and black/brown. Sometimes there is a little yellowish orange piece (I think this means dehydrated). Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? No, not that I am aware of.
History – None at this time.
Cage Info:
Cage Type – 65 Gallon Screen Reptarium 28” x 16.5” x 30”
Lighting – I have three lights. A Exo Terra 18” Repti Glo 5.0 UVB Florescent bulb, One Zoo Med 100w basking bulb and one Zoo Med 100w infrared light bulb. What is your daily lighting schedule? During the day 7am – 8pm All lights are on and during the night hours only the infrared light is on.
Temperature – Cage floor @ 70 degrees 1st level 75 – 80 2nd level 80 – 85 3rd to the top 85- 95 depending on how close you are to the lights. Lowest overnight temp? 70 – 80 degrees. How do you measure these temps? I have a temp gauge that I can move around the cage.
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? 50 – 65 depending on the misting. What do you use to measure humidity? I have a gauge that I can move around the cage.
Plants - Are you using live plants? No live plants. All artificial. Too worried about sap, bugs and where the plant came from. Plus no more money or room to put more in the cage.
Placement – The cage is located on top of my filing cabinet in my office the cabinet is about 4 feet off of the ground and the cage is about 7 feet at the top. Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? The traffic is low it is just myself and an office mate the cham is above us most of the time. There is an air vent about four feet away that blows low throughout the day but does not make anything blow inside the cage. At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? 7 feet from the floor at the top and 4 feet from the bottom of the cage.
Location – Northern California.
Current Problem – The current problem that I am having and think that I have under control is one eye and now two occasionally closed during the day. This started happening right after he shed. He kept a piece of skin on his forehead the longest and in fact it never rubbed off. He was blinking before removing the skin on his head but I waited for a week and then removed it with a piece of leaf. He is too young and is not used to human touch so this was the best way to do this without stressing him out too much and making him hiss at me. I researched through this forum and online about the possible causes. I found the following imperfections in my cage and made the corrections:
• To little shrubbery
• Not misting enough ( I bought an additional mister for this)
• Reduced his miner-all supplement to every other day (he started getting some accumulation from his nose)
In the research that I did I found, ordered and started applying to both eyes Terramycin (for four days). Since then I have stopped this as he does not blink any longer that I am seeing.
Overall I want to be sure that I handled this correctly and that I have the right setup. Please see pictures and set up. Let me know if there is something more that I can do.
Suzi. Here is the info you asked for.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon – Veiled Chameleon (Yemen Chameleon),Male, 3-4 months old. I have had him for about one month.
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Usually I will handle him only when needed. Lately since he had the eye problem I have been handling daily. He does not like me to retrieve him by hand so I have a piece of bamboo with fake shrubs on it that he will climb on. I shower him with this and apply the medicine.
Feeding – Crickets ¼ inch. 8-10 a day @ 10:00 am. The crickets get the normal Fluker’s high calcium dry food with Fluker’s Orange Cube. The 8 – 10 are placed in a separate container the night before with baby food (sweet potatoes – wet, mixed veigs – wet and baby cereal with sweet potato. I mix all this together in a small lid and leave the crickets to feast on that overnight.
Supplements – I use Sticky Tongue Farms Miner-all every other day
Watering – I have a Habba mist machine that mists the middle of the cage down the plants every three hours for 30 seconds. I also mist with warm to room temp water three additional time until all the plants are dripping. The cage dries out between misting.
Fecal Description – Droppings are white and black/brown. Sometimes there is a little yellowish orange piece (I think this means dehydrated). Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? No, not that I am aware of.
History – None at this time.
Cage Info:
Cage Type – 65 Gallon Screen Reptarium 28” x 16.5” x 30”
Lighting – I have three lights. A Exo Terra 18” Repti Glo 5.0 UVB Florescent bulb, One Zoo Med 100w basking bulb and one Zoo Med 100w infrared light bulb. What is your daily lighting schedule? During the day 7am – 8pm All lights are on and during the night hours only the infrared light is on.
Temperature – Cage floor @ 70 degrees 1st level 75 – 80 2nd level 80 – 85 3rd to the top 85- 95 depending on how close you are to the lights. Lowest overnight temp? 70 – 80 degrees. How do you measure these temps? I have a temp gauge that I can move around the cage.
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? 50 – 65 depending on the misting. What do you use to measure humidity? I have a gauge that I can move around the cage.
Plants - Are you using live plants? No live plants. All artificial. Too worried about sap, bugs and where the plant came from. Plus no more money or room to put more in the cage.
Placement – The cage is located on top of my filing cabinet in my office the cabinet is about 4 feet off of the ground and the cage is about 7 feet at the top. Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? The traffic is low it is just myself and an office mate the cham is above us most of the time. There is an air vent about four feet away that blows low throughout the day but does not make anything blow inside the cage. At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? 7 feet from the floor at the top and 4 feet from the bottom of the cage.
Location – Northern California.
Current Problem – The current problem that I am having and think that I have under control is one eye and now two occasionally closed during the day. This started happening right after he shed. He kept a piece of skin on his forehead the longest and in fact it never rubbed off. He was blinking before removing the skin on his head but I waited for a week and then removed it with a piece of leaf. He is too young and is not used to human touch so this was the best way to do this without stressing him out too much and making him hiss at me. I researched through this forum and online about the possible causes. I found the following imperfections in my cage and made the corrections:
• To little shrubbery
• Not misting enough ( I bought an additional mister for this)
• Reduced his miner-all supplement to every other day (he started getting some accumulation from his nose)
In the research that I did I found, ordered and started applying to both eyes Terramycin (for four days). Since then I have stopped this as he does not blink any longer that I am seeing.
Overall I want to be sure that I handled this correctly and that I have the right setup. Please see pictures and set up. Let me know if there is something more that I can do.
gerhartrx
New Member
Thanks!
I will cut the light at night and look for a live plant that will be healthy.
I have a question about changing up the crix. I read that if you continually change the gut load and are dilegent about it that you are okay with just the one. I also read that the other options are too fatty. I explored getting superworm or silkies but did not get them yet. I also read that they should a treat not part of the regualr cycle. Here is how I am gutloading and I will be changing this monthly.
Feeding – Crickets ¼ inch. 8-10 a day @ 10:00 am. The crickets get the normal Fluker’s high calcium dry food with Fluker’s Orange Cube. The 8 – 10 are placed in a separate container the night before with baby food (sweet potatoes – wet, mixed veigs – wet and baby cereal with sweet potato. I mix all this together in a small lid and leave the crickets to feast on that overnight.
Supplements – I use Sticky Tongue Farms Miner-all every other day
I will cut the light at night and look for a live plant that will be healthy.
I have a question about changing up the crix. I read that if you continually change the gut load and are dilegent about it that you are okay with just the one. I also read that the other options are too fatty. I explored getting superworm or silkies but did not get them yet. I also read that they should a treat not part of the regualr cycle. Here is how I am gutloading and I will be changing this monthly.
Feeding – Crickets ¼ inch. 8-10 a day @ 10:00 am. The crickets get the normal Fluker’s high calcium dry food with Fluker’s Orange Cube. The 8 – 10 are placed in a separate container the night before with baby food (sweet potatoes – wet, mixed veigs – wet and baby cereal with sweet potato. I mix all this together in a small lid and leave the crickets to feast on that overnight.
Supplements – I use Sticky Tongue Farms Miner-all every other day
gerhartrx
New Member
Thanks
The ladder was fun to make. It took me an hour but well worth it. I wanted to make sure that I did not have to touch him when he arrived in the mail.
Real plants that are chameleon safe are good for keeping the humidity up, like a pothos or something, there is a safe plant list on here if you do a search. I think the little ladder is so cute
The ladder was fun to make. It took me an hour but well worth it. I wanted to make sure that I did not have to touch him when he arrived in the mail.
