Suggestions ????

[groggow]

I just got my vieled past Tuesday had a bunch of fake plants and substrate in his cage found out that was wrong so we removed the substrate put different live potted plants in instead he has a medium sized rock fountain and a dripper for humidity and hydration I have 2 bulbs one is the blue daylight 40 watt and one is the uvb 5.0 compact cage is glass with screen top
This is my first chameleon and I'm just looking g for a bit b3tter advice than the pets tore gave me temp stay around 70-80 all day and 60 to 70 at night
Humidity varies in day due to misting but generally around 60 in day and 80 at night

 

[groggow]

I just got my vieled past Tuesday had a bunch of fake plants and substrate in his cage found out that was wrong so we removed the substrate put different live potted plants in instead he has a medium sized rock fountain and a dripper for humidity and hydration I have 2 bulbs one is the blue daylight 40 watt and one is the uvb 5.0 compact cage is glass with screen top
This is my first chameleon and I'm just looking g for a bit b3tter advice than the pets tore gave me temp stay around 70-80 all day and 60 to 70 at night
Humidity varies in day due to misting but generally around 60 in day and 80 at night

Plants include money tree, spider plant , pothos. And polka dot plant

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi and welcome! Looks like you’re starting out the same as so very many of us have, so you are absolutely in the right place. The biggest and possibly most important change needed asap is getting the correct uvb. The compact bulbs are not able to provide what a chameleon needs. The standard and correct one is a linear T5HO fixture with either an Arcadia 6% or ReptiSun 5.0 uvb bulb. If you’re interested in quickly learning the difference, this is an oldie but goodie.

Btw, I only trust Arcadia and ReptiSun brands and their reliability is well worth their cost. There are cheap knock off brands, but they have not proven reliable in the levels of uvb they put out. Not to be dramatic but the difference could mean having a healthy chameleon to having a sick dying one. You’ll probably need to order the correct light as chain pet stores do not carry the right ones. This is the correct one and you’ll need the 6% https://www.lightyourreptiles.com/products/arcadia-pro-t5-24-watt-fixture-22-5.html You’ll be wanting to buy at least the 24” light, as you will need to upgrade your cutie to no less than a 2x2x4’ enclosure. While they may move slow, they can be quite active and need at least that much space.
I love that you have safe live plants. It only takes one nibble of a fake plant to cause a bowel obstruction. I also love that you’ve raised your lights above the screen top. Little ones love to walk upside down and are at high risk for burns. When you get the correct UVB, you’ll need a distance of 8-9” between the uvb light and the basking branch. In a smaller enclosure, you’ll definitely need to raise the light. Once you’ve upgraded enclosure and little one gets bigger, it’s fine to set the lights on the screen top.
You will want to remove the fountain. While they are a nice aesthetic for us, they usually quickly become a bacterial breeding ground and can be a danger for your chameleon. Also, having a glass enclosure it can easily take your humidity to dangerous levels. The humidity range for daytime is between 30-50%. Also, it’s best to replace that analog temp/humidity gauge as they aren’t reliable for long at all. A digital one with a wired probe end is much better.
Depending on what you have, you might want to seriously consider buying Neptune’s kit. https://www.pangeareptile.com/colle...tarter-chameleon-kit-by-neptune-the-chameleon Not only is everything exactly what is needed, but the price is fantastic vs buying it all seperate. I could have saved hundreds had it been available when I started.
What supplements are you using and what schedule for them? This is another hugely important part of husbandry. You’ll need a phosphorus free calcium without D3, which you’ll lightly dust every feeding with (except one every other week). You’ll also need a D3 and multivitamin and it’s easiest to get the combination product of Repashy calcium Plus LoD or Reptivite with D3. You’ll use this for one feeding either every other week or twice a month if you prefer.
What are you feeding your cutie? How much, how often and how big are your feeders? What are you feeding the feeders?
I probably should have started with this, but here we are…how old is your chameleon and do you know for certain it’s gender? Could you post some pics of it? If you can get some clear pics of the back of its back feet, we can determine gender.
I’ve babbled enough. I am so glad that you found your way here and look forward to your reply.

 

[groggow]

Hi and welcome! Looks like you’re starting out the same as so very many of us have, so you are absolutely in the right place. The biggest and possibly most important change needed asap is getting the correct uvb. The compact bulbs are not able to provide what a chameleon needs. The standard and correct one is a linear T5HO fixture with either an Arcadia 6% or ReptiSun 5.0 uvb bulb. If you’re interested in quickly learning the difference, this is an oldie but goodie.

Btw, I only trust Arcadia and ReptiSun brands and their reliability is well worth their cost. There are cheap knock off brands, but they have not proven reliable in the levels of uvb they put out. Not to be dramatic but the difference could mean having a healthy chameleon to having a sick dying one. You’ll probably need to order the correct light as chain pet stores do not carry the right ones. This is the correct one and you’ll need the 6% https://www.lightyourreptiles.com/products/arcadia-pro-t5-24-watt-fixture-22-5.html You’ll be wanting to buy at least the 24” light, as you will need to upgrade your cutie to no less than a 2x2x4’ enclosure. While they may move slow, they can be quite active and need at least that much space.
I love that you have safe live plants. It only takes one nibble of a fake plant to cause a bowel obstruction. I also love that you’ve raised your lights above the screen top. Little ones love to walk upside down and are at high risk for burns. When you get the correct UVB, you’ll need a distance of 8-9” between the uvb light and the basking branch. In a smaller enclosure, you’ll definitely need to raise the light. Once you’ve upgraded enclosure and little one gets bigger, it’s fine to set the lights on the screen top.
You will want to remove the fountain. While they are a nice aesthetic for us, they usually quickly become a bacterial breeding ground and can be a danger for your chameleon. Also, having a glass enclosure it can easily take your humidity to dangerous levels. The humidity range for daytime is between 30-50%. Also, it’s best to replace that analog temp/humidity gauge as they aren’t reliable for long at all. A digital one with a wired probe end is much better.
Depending on what you have, you might want to seriously consider buying Neptune’s kit. https://www.pangeareptile.com/colle...tarter-chameleon-kit-by-neptune-the-chameleon Not only is everything exactly what is needed, but the price is fantastic vs buying it all seperate. I could have saved hundreds had it been available when I started.
What supplements are you using and what schedule for them? This is another hugely important part of husbandry. You’ll need a phosphorus free calcium without D3, which you’ll lightly dust every feeding with (except one every other week). You’ll also need a D3 and multivitamin and it’s easiest to get the combination product of Repashy calcium Plus LoD or Reptivite with D3. You’ll use this for one feeding either every other week or twice a month if you prefer.
What are you feeding your cutie? How much, how often and how big are your feeders? What are you feeding the feeders?
I probably should have started with this, but here we are…how old is your chameleon and do you know for certain it’s gender? Could you post some pics of it? If you can get some clear pics of the back of its back feet, we can determine gender.
I’ve babbled enough. I am so glad that you found your way here and look forward to your reply.

As far as I know male he has bumps on back of his feet and someone on here said about 5 months I don't really know neither does the pet store I got him from.
I attached pictures of the supplements and gut load also potatoes and carrots I've been told for gut loading crickets I'm doing medium sized crickets about 5 to 10 feeding 2 times a day morning and night his lights are on a 12 on 12 off timere switch and the only reason I kept the fountain is because I have no substrate to soak up what drips from dripper so it positioned above that for now till I come up with somthing better am about to order new uvb light as well then I'll have the blue day bulb 40 watt the all white light for the plants and the long uvb bulb I will post other pictures of his feet as well

 

[groggow]

That's his back foot wasn't in A great spot

 

[MissSkittles]

Ok. Usually I check for other posts, but of course the time I don’t…. Yes, he is a handsome little he. That is a pretty good age approximation. For feeder size, make sure that they are smaller than the space between his eyes. Crickets are good, but variety is best. Many on line vendors sell variety packs which are species specific and often age specific as well. This is just one example. https://www.rainbowmealworms.net/chameleon-sampler-pack/ As important as what you feed your chameleon, it’s just as important what you feed your feeders. The various colored jellies and cubes will keep them hydrated and alive, but not healthy. Healthy bugs are nutritious bugs. Attaching some graphics to help. For his age, you’ll want to feed him just once a day, at least 10-12 bugs. With my young males, I stopped counting the feeders I put in their feeding stations after that and just kind of eyeballed the amount that looked right. Once their growth starts slowing down, we start reducing their food to match.
Drainage is a tricky thing and there isn’t any single or simple solution. It’s whatever works best for each keeper. I started with a ReptiBreeze stand for my ReptiBreeze enclosure and then drilled holes in the center of the enclosure floor. I placed a rubber dish rack mat thing as a spacer which I then put my heaviest plant on top of and had a bucket beneath. It worked great and then I got confident enough to go bioactive.
I need to get ready for work, but I hope this has been of some help to you.

 

[groggow]

My enclosure is 18x18x24 so would this 14 inch uvb light be sufficient

 

[MissSkittles]

My enclosure is 18x18x24 so would this 14 inch uvb light be sufficient

It would, but just get the 24” one and save having to buy another later.