Some insight on senegal ?

lecham

New Member
MY GF AND I RESCUED A SENEGAL TODAY FORM A PET STORE..WELL HE OR SHE HAS SOME deformations on his lower jaw but hopefully we can fix it and make him a happier cham..anyway i am looking for some information on what they like and i see tht they are not so trendy in the cham buiz,, does anyone have some advise what kind of climate are they found in,, how to identify males form females and well i know there pretty small limbed ..not as robust as a veiled or a jackson ect. what temps do they like and just any info tht anyone thinks will help me out....
i currently have a 75 watt 8 inch abouve iys vage making it a 80 temp.:):)
 
Post a close up pic from the side of the base of it's tail and we should be able to tell gender. You should name him Reptar from the rugrats :D
 
Post a close up pic from the side of the base of it's tail and we should be able to tell gender. You should name him Reptar from the rugrats :D

ok ill post some tommorow she is asleep jaja im assuming its a girl..or there some pics tht i put up on the other thread the one about me thinking about getting it..i think it shows its tail
 
Females are generally deeper bodied in Senegals.
Generally I've always kept them like veileds.

They need to be well watered every day. Water can be provided by misting the cage and using a dripper.

You need a UVB light....most often recommended is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Exposure to UVB will allow it to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic.

You will also need a regular incandescent household light bulb in a domed hood that is of a wattage that will produce temperatures in the basking area in the mid to high 80'sF. Providing an appropriate basking temperature will help it to digest its food properly and thus plays a part in nutrient absorption.

Since you live in Az, unless you have air conditioning, you likely should use a mesh cage.

You need branches of an appropriate size that its feet can grip them and its always good to use real non-toxic well-washed (both sides of the leaves) plants to help with the humidity.

You can feed it crickets, roaches, superworms, silkworms, etc. and once in a while waxworms that have been fed a nutritious diet. The crickets, superworms, roaches can be fed an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc.).

The insects should be dusted with a phos.-free calcium powder just before feeding them to the chameleon. This helps to make up for the usually poor ratio of calcium/phosphorous found in most of the feeder insects.

Twice a month I dust with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that it gets some D3 without overdoing it. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause health issues.


I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Vitamin A from a beta carotene (prOformed) source will not build up in the system. However its controversial as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene so some people give a small amount of prEformed vitamin A once in a while. Vitamin A from a prEformed source can build up in the chameleon and may prevent the D3 from doing its job...so you want to be careful with it.

Hope this helps!
 
Females are generally deeper bodied in Senegals.
Generally I've always kept them like veileds.

They need to be well watered every day. Water can be provided by misting the cage and using a dripper.

You need a UVB light....most often recommended is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Exposure to UVB will allow it to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic.

You will also need a regular incandescent household light bulb in a domed hood that is of a wattage that will produce temperatures in the basking area in the mid to high 80'sF. Providing an appropriate basking temperature will help it to digest its food properly and thus plays a part in nutrient absorption.

Since you live in Az, unless you have air conditioning, you likely should use a mesh cage.

You need branches of an appropriate size that its feet can grip them and its always good to use real non-toxic well-washed (both sides of the leaves) plants to help with the humidity.

You can feed it crickets, roaches, superworms, silkworms, etc. and once in a while waxworms that have been fed a nutritious diet. The crickets, superworms, roaches can be fed an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc.).

The insects should be dusted with a phos.-free calcium powder just before feeding them to the chameleon. This helps to make up for the usually poor ratio of calcium/phosphorous found in most of the feeder insects.

Twice a month I dust with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that it gets some D3 without overdoing it. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause health issues.


I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Vitamin A from a beta carotene (prOformed) source will not build up in the system. However its controversial as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene so some people give a small amount of prEformed vitamin A once in a while. Vitamin A from a prEformed source can build up in the chameleon and may prevent the D3 from doing its job...so you want to be careful with it.

Hope this helps!

thanx i sure do got the rite things to make this senegal a happy cham.
 
Back
Top Bottom