Sick Veiled Chameleon

Ag09g

New Member
Hi, I'm sorry this is so long, but I really don't know what to do or think about my chameleon at this point...

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Male Veiled Chameleon. A little over a year old.

Handling - Before he got sick, almost never as he is evil. Now slightly more, though he still hisses and lunges at my hand so I don't actually have to touch him to force feed him his food and medicines.

Feeding - I was feeding him primarily crickets, about 36 every week/week and a half. Occasionally superworms if I run out of crickets and can't get more immediately. I don't really gutload the crickets as I get a new batch weekly, but they are offered flukers cricket quencher and cricket food while they are alive.

Supplements - I have Rep-Cal phosphorous free calcium with VitD3, and Reptivite. Luckily I had been using the reptivite only because I thought it was calcium and didn't realize it until all of this began...I dusted each new batch of crickets when I got them.

Watering - I have a spray bottle that I use several times a day for 30 seconds to a minute. Some days I see him drink from the leaves, some days he runs from the water and I don't see him drink. Other days he runs to the screen and lets me squirt water into his mouth and I do this until he turns away.

Fecal Description - His feces lately has not been normal. It is very runny as opposed to nice and firm like it used to be. The urates are also runny, but very white. I have attributed the runny feces to being fed a ton of water and liquid food....it started getting runny when he started being force fed.

History - I have always watched for the color of his urates. They have NEVER been orange, and when I notice them appearing more yellow than normal I always upped his mistings. He also lived from may-september in an outside cage. It rains heavily and almost every day during the summer in Florida, and I would spray his cage down with a hose at least once a day, more if it hadn't rained. One thing I was concerned about was that the shape of his casque changed during these summer months. I saw him much less frequently while he was outside, but when I caught him to bring him back to Tallahasse I saw his normally perfectly smooth casque had a dent in it. It is only visible from the side though, from the front and back the casque is still perfectly straight and symmetrical.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Large mesh screen. 4.5ft tall X 3ft wide X 2ft deep

Lighting - Reptisun 10.0 UVB ( I got the 10 because the nearest perch is about 8-10 inches below the light, and the light is at an angle since the top of my cage comes to a point). Lights come on at about 7:45 and stay on for 12 hours.

Temperature - Basking spot is 90-95 degrees. The rest of the cage about 75 during the day, falling below that at night depending on weather. Never lower than about 68. I have a temperature gauge to measure these temps.

Humidity - Between mistings it falls to 40-50%. I mist several times a day to get it up around 80-90. I have a humidity gauge for this also.

Plants - I have a rubber plant and a golden pothos.

Placement - Cage is located in the corner of my living room currently because it is getting too cold outside, but is on a screen porch when the weather is warm.

Location - Split between Tallahassee and Tampa, Fl. Tallahassee is where the problems have manifested.

Current Problem - Okay first thing you need to know. I was forced to move my adult veiled chameleon Ozone from the cage described above to his baby cage (16X16X20 I believe) because he had not been finding his crickets in the feeder bowl for almost a month. When I moved him to the smaller cage I put crickets in with him and he immediately ate about 8 of them, clearly his issue wasn't with not wanting to eat in the other cage, but not understanding where the food was.

So a few weeks had elapsed with my chameleon in this small cage. I was fattening him up again (he had lost weight while not eating well in the other cage) and trying new bowls to see if he would eat out of any. I didn't want to move him back until I knew he would find food. This was all going well until the last week in October. On this Friday/Saturday he was greedily devouring superworms (I had run out of crickets but had 50 superworms in a container I was trying to get rid of) and drinking. He was even coming down and eating the worms out of the bowl before I could add new ones. On Sunday I noticed he still had worms in his bowl, but wasn't too concerned. Monday I woke up and found him sleeping on the bottom of the cage. I freaked out, went out and bottom him crickets; no interest. I decided to wait another day and see how he was doing, but on Tuesday he had still not eaten or had anything to drink, and was still sleeping during the day. I called the vet and got an appointment for that Thursday.

I take him to the vet and they weighed him. He was 179g and the vet said he was a bit thin and definitely dehydrated (I had not seen him drink since the previous Friday/Saturday). She gave him subcutaneous fluids and a prescription of panacur to kill any parasites and baytril incase of an infection. I was to bring him back in two weeks for a follow up. In the mean time, he was to be given a dose of panacur for three days in a row, none for ten, and then again for three more. I was instructed to give the baytril for 10 days along with the panacur. The vet also gave me the powdered carnivore care to feed him while he still refused to eat.

I fed him and administered the drugs dutifully. Around the end of the course of baytril, say day 8-10 since vet visit, I noticed he was dangling his forelegs. I didn't realize this was symptomatic of anything though, at first. The day after the baytril was complete I also noticed swelling around his neck. Thanks to the lovely internet I had established that my chameleon was dying of kidney failure.

I took him to the vet again for his 2 week follow up. He had gained a ton of weight in the two weeks. He went from 179g to about 240g. I was a little disturbed by this, but the vet didn't react. I had not seen Ozone sleeping during the day since taking him to the vet for the first time, and I had also moved him back into his big cage. Anyway, I told her he wasn't sleeping during the day, but obviously now he had this edema and what was probably gout. He was also no longer dehydrated since I had been force feeding him water like a mad woman. Since we still didn't know what was wrong, we decided to take bloodwork and xrays. She said that his bones looked good in the xrays, but that there was something in his abdomen she wasn't quite sure about, and that she would consult some specialists and get back to me. I still have no idea what was in those xrays as the experts' only response was that he must be a female holding eggs. He's not. At the end of this visit she sent me home with liquid calcium and told me to give it to him once a day.

A week later she called me with the bloodwork. His kidney level were very high she said, indicating they weren't doing so well (surprise), that his uric acid levels were high, his calcium/phosphorous balance was off, and that he had elevated white blood cell counts. Pretty much she said that most likely his kidneys were failing due to chronic dehydration, and that if this was the case there was likely nothing that we could do, but that the high white blood cell count meant he was fighting off an infection, and that the best case scenario was that he had a kidney infection. She said that if it was an infection causing the kidneys to not work probably, there was a chance he could recover. So she put him back on the baytril for a 3 week course. This Friday will be the third week, and he is still not eating or drinking on his own. His right leg is obviously swollen and he still favors it, and he still has the gular edema.
Now he has definitely not gotten any worse. And he is only favoring his right foreleg while he used to favor both. I also do believe his grip has gotten stronger/almost normal as he causes scratches again when I'm forced to handle him. He is also MUCH more active when I get him out of his cage. At the beginning of all of this he used to fall asleep in my hand.....now he tries to flee/launch his body from my hands. He is also very capable of moving, has no difficulty or weakness, doesn't fall, but I think he isn't as active as normal because his leg hurts.

So this is where we're currently at. I have another vet appointment this Friday, and next week I will be returning to Tampa for winter break.
What do you all think? It's just heartbreaking for me because I hate to see the little guy in pain, and I feel like I'm just torturing him with all the force feeding and that his death is inevitable. I just don't know what to do at this point.
 
That is a crazy horror story. Im so sorry this is happening. I'm going to post again in a few minutes to help correct the issues I see in your husbandry.
 
Hi, I'm sorry this is so long, but I really don't know what to do or think about my chameleon at this point...

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Male Veiled Chameleon. A little over a year old.

Handling - Before he got sick, almost never as he is evil. Now slightly more, though he still hisses and lunges at my hand so I don't actually have to touch him to force feed him his food and medicines.

Feeding - I was feeding him primarily crickets, about 36 every week/week and a half. Occasionally superworms if I run out of crickets and can't get more immediately. I don't really gutload the crickets as I get a new batch weekly, but they are offered flukers cricket quencher and cricket food while they are alive.
You should have more variety in your feeders. For example, instead of using just crickets and super worms, add in phoenix worms (calciworms), silkworms, dubia roaches, and locusts. As for the gut loading, it needs to be done. I'm going to attach a blog from a user named sandrachameleon about gut loading.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html


Supplements - I have Rep-Cal phosphorous free calcium with VitD3, and Reptivite. Luckily I had been using the reptivite only because I thought it was calcium and didn't realize it until all of this began...I dusted each new batch of crickets when I got them.
You should be using calcium WITHOUT D3 every day, calcium WITH D3 twice a month, and a multivitamin twice a month. There is a product called Repashy Calcium Plus which incorporates all in one and is meant to be used every day.
Watering - I have a spray bottle that I use several times a day for 30 seconds to a minute. Some days I see him drink from the leaves, some days he runs from the water and I don't see him drink. Other days he runs to the screen and lets me squirt water into his mouth and I do this until he turns away.

Fecal Description - His feces lately has not been normal. It is very runny as opposed to nice and firm like it used to be. The urates are also runny, but very white. I have attributed the runny feces to being fed a ton of water and liquid food....it started getting runny when he started being force fed.

History - I have always watched for the color of his urates. They have NEVER been orange, and when I notice them appearing more yellow than normal I always upped his mistings. He also lived from may-september in an outside cage. It rains heavily and almost every day during the summer in Florida, and I would spray his cage down with a hose at least once a day, more if it hadn't rained. One thing I was concerned about was that the shape of his casque changed during these summer months. I saw him much less frequently while he was outside, but when I caught him to bring him back to Tallahasse I saw his normally perfectly smooth casque had a dent in it. It is only visible from the side though, from the front and back the casque is still perfectly straight and symmetrical.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Large mesh screen. 4.5ft tall X 3ft wide X 2ft deep

Lighting - Reptisun 10.0 UVB ( I got the 10 because the nearest perch is about 8-10 inches below the light, and the light is at an angle since the top of my cage comes to a point). Lights come on at about 7:45 and stay on for 12 hours.
You may somehow want to try and get your hands on a UV meter to measure how much is hitting your cham.
Temperature - Basking spot is 90-95 degrees. The rest of the cage about 75 during the day, falling below that at night depending on weather. Never lower than about 68. I have a temperature gauge to measure these temps.

Humidity - Between mistings it falls to 40-50%. I mist several times a day to get it up around 80-90. I have a humidity gauge for this also.

Plants - I have a rubber plant and a golden pothos.

Placement - Cage is located in the corner of my living room currently because it is getting too cold outside, but is on a screen porch when the weather is warm.

Location - Split between Tallahassee and Tampa, Fl. Tallahassee is where the problems have manifested.

Current Problem - Okay first thing you need to know. I was forced to move my adult veiled chameleon Ozone from the cage described above to his baby cage (16X16X20 I believe) because he had not been finding his crickets in the feeder bowl for almost a month. When I moved him to the smaller cage I put crickets in with him and he immediately ate about 8 of them, clearly his issue wasn't with not wanting to eat in the other cage, but not understanding where the food was.

So a few weeks had elapsed with my chameleon in this small cage. I was fattening him up again (he had lost weight while not eating well in the other cage) and trying new bowls to see if he would eat out of any. I didn't want to move him back until I knew he would find food. This was all going well until the last week in October. On this Friday/Saturday he was greedily devouring superworms (I had run out of crickets but had 50 superworms in a container I was trying to get rid of) and drinking. He was even coming down and eating the worms out of the bowl before I could add new ones. On Sunday I noticed he still had worms in his bowl, but wasn't too concerned. Monday I woke up and found him sleeping on the bottom of the cage. I freaked out, went out and bottom him crickets; no interest. I decided to wait another day and see how he was doing, but on Tuesday he had still not eaten or had anything to drink, and was still sleeping during the day. I called the vet and got an appointment for that Thursday.

I take him to the vet and they weighed him. He was 179g and the vet said he was a bit thin and definitely dehydrated (I had not seen him drink since the previous Friday/Saturday). She gave him subcutaneous fluids and a prescription of panacur to kill any parasites and baytril incase of an infection. I was to bring him back in two weeks for a follow up. In the mean time, he was to be given a dose of panacur for three days in a row, none for ten, and then again for three more. I was instructed to give the baytril for 10 days along with the panacur. The vet also gave me the powdered carnivore care to feed him while he still refused to eat.

I fed him and administered the drugs dutifully. Around the end of the course of baytril, say day 8-10 since vet visit, I noticed he was dangling his forelegs. I didn't realize this was symptomatic of anything though, at first. The day after the baytril was complete I also noticed swelling around his neck. Thanks to the lovely internet I had established that my chameleon was dying of kidney failure.

I took him to the vet again for his 2 week follow up. He had gained a ton of weight in the two weeks. He went from 179g to about 240g. I was a little disturbed by this, but the vet didn't react. I had not seen Ozone sleeping during the day since taking him to the vet for the first time, and I had also moved him back into his big cage. Anyway, I told her he wasn't sleeping during the day, but obviously now he had this edema and what was probably gout. He was also no longer dehydrated since I had been force feeding him water like a mad woman. Since we still didn't know what was wrong, we decided to take bloodwork and xrays. She said that his bones looked good in the xrays, but that there was something in his abdomen she wasn't quite sure about, and that she would consult some specialists and get back to me. I still have no idea what was in those xrays as the experts' only response was that he must be a female holding eggs. He's not. At the end of this visit she sent me home with liquid calcium and told me to give it to him once a day.

A week later she called me with the bloodwork. His kidney level were very high she said, indicating they weren't doing so well (surprise), that his uric acid levels were high, his calcium/phosphorous balance was off, and that he had elevated white blood cell counts. Pretty much she said that most likely his kidneys were failing due to chronic dehydration, and that if this was the case there was likely nothing that we could do, but that the high white blood cell count meant he was fighting off an infection, and that the best case scenario was that he had a kidney infection. She said that if it was an infection causing the kidneys to not work probably, there was a chance he could recover. So she put him back on the baytril for a 3 week course. This Friday will be the third week, and he is still not eating or drinking on his own. His right leg is obviously swollen and he still favors it, and he still has the gular edema.
Now he has definitely not gotten any worse. And he is only favoring his right foreleg while he used to favor both. I also do believe his grip has gotten stronger/almost normal as he causes scratches again when I'm forced to handle him. He is also MUCH more active when I get him out of his cage. At the beginning of all of this he used to fall asleep in my hand.....now he tries to flee/launch his body from my hands. He is also very capable of moving, has no difficulty or weakness, doesn't fall, but I think he isn't as active as normal because his leg hurts.

So this is where we're currently at. I have another vet appointment this Friday, and next week I will be returning to Tampa for winter break.
What do you all think? It's just heartbreaking for me because I hate to see the little guy in pain, and I feel like I'm just torturing him with all the force feeding and that his death is inevitable. I just don't know what to do at this point.

My answers are in red. I hope all goes well!
 
This is very sad, wish I had some answers for you. Hopefully someone will come along with all the answers needed.

Drinking is good, helps flush his kidneys. I could very well be wrong but sometimes the antibiotics mess with their digestive tract and that could also be why not eating.

Rooting for the two of you.
 
Thank you so much for your comments!!
I do have a calcium without D3 that I just found, so I will definitely start using that.

And yes the vet also yelled at me about the gut loading. I currently have some crickets that Ive been feeding various vegetables/fruit. So I am trying to improve this!! I guess I just didnt think it was necessary...I had another veiled chameleon for 6 years before this one, and I dont remember ever gutloading his crickets (although it has been a few years since he died)...

Also about the light, I can definitely try to get a UV meter. I got this bulb last summer, about 6 months ago, so it still should be working well. Though I have a new bulb that Im waiting to change it out with.
Also, on a somewhat unrelated note, my chameleon will walk to the top of the cage and hang upside down RIGHT under the light. Is this going to hurt him? Do you think this means I should change the bulb?
 
This is very sad, wish I had some answers for you. Hopefully someone will come along with all the answers needed.

Drinking is good, helps flush his kidneys. I could very well be wrong but sometimes the antibiotics mess with their digestive tract and that could also be why not eating.

Rooting for the two of you.

Thank you so much! Yes Ive been wondering if the baytril has been making him not want to eat....
once hes off the meds I was going to stop force feeding him and see if he shows any interest in food/water...
 
Your husbandry does not sound all that off, minus the fact that you may have been over supplementing with multivitamins. I am also never a fan of shuffling a cham back and forth between livivng situations. It also sounds like you have spent alot of money at the Vet, and I am not sure how knowledgeable your Vet sounds about chameleons. Did she do a fecal BEFORE giving you the Panacur? Also the loss of use of his legs and the swelling are often seen after using Baytril. What has me most concerned is the abdominal mass. It could very likely be a tumor (I lost a Veiled to an abdominal wall tumor). If that is the case it can be a long slow death and it is possible you have done everything you can do.
 
Thank you so much for your comments!!
I do have a calcium without D3 that I just found, so I will definitely start using that.

And yes the vet also yelled at me about the gut loading. I currently have some crickets that Ive been feeding various vegetables/fruit. So I am trying to improve this!! I guess I just didnt think it was necessary...I had another veiled chameleon for 6 years before this one, and I dont remember ever gutloading his crickets (although it has been a few years since he died)...

Also about the light, I can definitely try to get a UV meter. I got this bulb last summer, about 6 months ago, so it still should be working well. Though I have a new bulb that Im waiting to change it out with.
Also, on a somewhat unrelated note, my chameleon will walk to the top of the cage and hang upside down RIGHT under the light. Is this going to hurt him? Do you think this means I should change the bulb?

The new bulb would be a good thing.

Here is sandrachameleons blog link for gutloading
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html oops pilotmann gave it to you
 
Your husbandry does not sound all that off, minus the fact that you may have been over supplementing with multivitamins. I am also never a fan of shuffling a cham back and forth between livivng situations. It also sounds like you have spent alot of money at the Vet, and I am not sure how knowledgeable your Vet sounds about chameleons. Did she do a fecal BEFORE giving you the Panacur? Also the loss of use of his legs and the swelling are often seen after using Baytril. What has me most concerned is the abdominal mass. It could very likely be a tumor (I lost a Veiled to an abdominal wall tumor). If that is the case it can be a long slow death and it is possible you have done everything you can do.

No he hasn't had a fecal done on him at all. And he can still definitely use his swollen leg, he just prefers not to and the grip is not as strong.
Now by the abdominal mass do you mean what they saw on the xrays?
 
Hello, i have a question... Do his gums look yellow? yellow gums are a sign on sever liver disease. well it was either liver, or kidney disease.
but in beardies yellow gums is normal.
 
Hello, i have a question... Do his gums look yellow? yellow gums are a sign on sever liver disease. well it was either liver, or kidney disease.
but in beardies yellow gums is normal. Lol

Hmm Im not sure if they look yellow or not....I haven't gotten a good look since im usually stalking him with a syringe when his mouth is open.
As of his last two visits at the vet they've been normal looking though, she hasn't commented on it at least ....

And Julirs, I will be sure to ask her about the xrays on friday since I never did get a response about that. And like you said, Im not sure she's the most knowledgeable person....but I think her clinic is the only one in the area that sees exotics.
 
There is a decent cham vet in Clearwater that I use. Message me for the information. The only gum color you should be converned about in your cham would be a very pale, almost white color. I fear you may be fighting a losing battle. It sounds like you are doing everything that can be done. Just make sure your cham is getting water. Baytril is VERY hard on them.
 
Be aware that I'm not a vet and just speaking from what I have learned/seen/etc. over the years. The swelling around the neck area may be edema...that can be from poor kidney function...but I'm sure other things can cause it as well. Dangling the legs is often a symptom of gout...a vet can tell you if that's what it is.

Has there been any signs that the chameleon or the insects have been chewing on the rubber plant? I'm reasonably sure they are not a good choice for chameleons.

Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
 
Last edited:
Be aware that I'm not a vet and just speaking from what I have learned/seen/etc. over the years. The swelling around the neck area may be edema...that can be from poor kidney function...but I'm sure other things can cause it as well. Dangling the legs is often a symptom of gout...a vet can tell you if that's what it is.

Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.

Thank you for all of this helpful information! I will certainly look through the sites you linked. :)
 
Just looked up rubber plants and in some animals they can cause kidney problems if ingested....but you didn't say if your chameleon or the insects had chewed on the plant. Has any of the sap come out of the plant?
 
Oh and Kinyonga, I have never seen him eating the rubber plant and I dont see bite marks in the leaves. The crickets are in a separate container away from the plant. And is it really not safe? I thought it was! I'm pretty sure I had seen it on at least one list of safe plants, and I had kept one with a previous chameleon without incident, I just assumed it was fine.
 
Just looked up rubber plants and in some animals they can cause kidney problems if ingested....but you didn't say if your chameleon or the insects had chewed on the plant. Has any of the sap come out of the plant?

I don't believe there's been any sap, and the chameleon is almost never around this plant because it is small and closer to the bottom.
 
Im sorry your cham isnt feeling well.
Regarding some of the stuff you ahve said.
Im glad you are correcting your husbandry issues.
While I have not had experience with kidney issues and chams, I have had experience with a kidney infection and my dog. I know its not the same, but cant hurt to tell ya.
When he got sick, he was on several medications, he was weak, and he didnt want to eat, but he drank like he hadnt had water in years.
I would not be overtly concerend about the eating, though it would be best if he ate something.
As someone else said, the swelling can be gout, or be caused by the kidney infection.
I would recommend having a fecal done to test for parasites (these can cause weight loss and can be contracted from the feeder bugs)
I would suggest for food, and what im about to say is disgusting, so hope you have a strong stomach...
I would make bug juice. take your feeders, and a bit of your supplement, i pedialyte, and blend away till its a nice liquid consitency. get an eye dropper and try to get some into him, though be careful you dont force too much so he does not aspirate it (breathe it into his lungs)
I would try a warm daily shower, which may help with the swelling, and his overall feeling.
Can you post a picture of him please, from the side would be great, showing the affected leg.
Have you asked your vet abtou gout?
The high white count leads me to believe that he either has an infectin, or cancer, as well as the other high levels found from the bloodwork.
If its an infection, the meds wil help, if cancer, probably not.
I woudl remove the rubber plant and get a pothos or a scheffelara, which will be better if and when he munches (jsut cuz you dont see munching doesnt mean he isnt)
I think thats it for now, but i need to reread your original post to see what else I should/can add.
Good luck!

i wouldnt worry about the casque dent, its probably nothing.
Is there a chance he ate any wild bugs while outside? if they had parasites or were covered in pesticides, this could be causing some of the issues.
I think uric acid is what causes gout, but i cant say for sure.
I would reduce his temps a bit, to more around 85, prob not affecting his current medical issues, but cant hurt him either.
Regarding the runny feces, this is probably because of lack of food and mainly water as a diet.
I would get some hornworms, these are great for hydration and getting food into your cham (whcih righ tnow he probably needs)
 
Thank you camimom for all of your input!
I took this picture tonight, he was already asleep but you can see his leg dangling....
tomorrow I will try to take a better one from the other side that shows his neck/leg better!

Also, for anyone else reading this, I emailed the vet about his xrays and this is what she replied:

The only other suspicion the specialists had about his x-rays were that his liver could be enlarged. Once they looked at the bloodwork, the discussion changed to his kidney disease. Reviewing the x-rays with the knowledge of his bloodwork, I think it could also be that his kidneys were enlarged, or that there is a an extra layer around his internal organs from gout deposits (gout secondary to the kidney failure). Unfortunately, none of those are things that would change the way we treat Ozone, but that's the summary.

Lovely. If its gout all among his internal organs I'm pretty sure that means he's a goner..:(
 

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