In one of the pictures it looks like the chameleon has MBD. If so...it needs to be corrected by giving extra calcium and making sure that other nutrients are in balance. Once the imbalance is corrected and the bones, etc. are strong again the supplementing, UVB, gutloading, etc. need to be done correctly to keep it from coming back. See further down in this post.
The quickest way to correct it is to get a vet to give it injections of calcium until the blood calcium levels are high enough to give it a shot of calcitonin to draw the calcium rapidly back into the chameleon's system.
Here's some information I hope will help you with supplements, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
I can't be sure what the wound is...but I have seen tumors in panther chameleons that look similar to that. You need a vet to look at the chameleon.
Lights should not be on at night and unless the temperatures drop into the mid 60's at night there is no need for extra heat. It definitely needs a UVB light and the light should not pass through glass or plastic. What is the temperature in the warmest area of the cage the chameleon can sit in ? (I notice that the light isn't over the branches which may or may not be a bad thing. If it would make the temperature too hot where the chameleon could sit then it would not be good. However if the chameleon can't get warm enough, that is not good either.) Temp in the rest of the cage?
In over 20 years of keeping reptiles, in spite of the claims that they carry slamonella, I have only had it show up in the autopsy of one chameleon. Just be sure to wash your hands after handling the chameleon and not touch other things when you are handling the chameleon and there should be no problem.
please take all Carol's suggestions, he needs calcium shots right away.
