Sick Baby Sambava

retroangles

New Member
This is my second try at panthers. The first little guy passed on the 3rd day after arrival. The breeder allowed me to select another. This second one is a little bigger maybe 4-5in? H t T. The first few days after arrival the new one was doing OK. It was eating aprox 5-6 pinhead crickets, and 2-3 small meal worms a day. It has appeared to me that it hasn't quite figured out the drinking thing, but with a little help It would drink a few times a day.
Energy level was excellent until today (Today is day 6 after shipping) When I noticed he didn't hide when I put his food bowl up in is hanger. Usually if he's close by he immediately at least takes a good look at what's in there, but waits until I leave to actually eat. Another thing to note is this spot he was in is exactly where he chose to bed down last night, and is very close to his hot spot. So it's not a heat issue.
I then picked him up and he wasn't his usual energetic self. And he kept his eyes closed most of the time. It looked like he had a grain of something he was trying to squint out of both eyes. But there is nothing "grainy" in his cage! He is now only a few inches from where I left him an hour or two ago.

Details:

Unknown age unknown sex Sambava Panther

Cage is 16x16x36in screen cage

Light is a SolarBrite 120w heat and UV for daytime, and 100w red heat for nighttime.

Main plant is a 36in potted star Jasmine w/small zoo med vines cross cross top to bottom. A few fake fern leaves to add a level of privacy. And two 24in sticks propped teepee style from bottom of cage to about mid level.

Food is pinhead crickets and small meal worms once a day. Six to eight crickets and a few MW's on average. Dusted every other day with Flukers Calcium w/o D. And once so far with reptivite.

He gets sprayed 2-3 times a day plus has a zoo med dripper going until the red heat bulb goes on at bedtime.

Humidity has been a beast to maintain in our dry region, but never goes below 50% for long. Usually in the upper 50's to high 60's.

I have been looking but can find no evidence of a bowel movement!
 

carol5208

Chameleon Enthusiast
Ok, I would remove the heat light at night unless your temps are going to dip into the low 50's or below. It is not necessary. What kind of temps are you getting out of 120 watt light?. That is very high for a baby to bask under. If that is a combo uvb/uva that might be too intense for a baby also.
 

KingJulian

New Member
I agree with Carol, the red night lights keep the chams awake. They need complete darkness to sleep. That could be why he has his eyes closed during the day.
 

carol5208

Chameleon Enthusiast
I think that light is not right for a baby chameleon or any chameleon for that matter. Who recommended that light to you? It may be way too intense for your chameleon's eyes and might be causing him to close them. I would get rid of that light and get a tube style Reptisun 5.0. See if that does not make a difference.
 

retroangles

New Member
That's funny about the light issue! The first one dying was blamed on the uv light not being "Hot" enough. I was using a reptisun 5.0+ red heat at night, and was told by the breeder who happens to be a sponser of this site, that the lighting was all wrong. When asked what was recommended with this new guy? I was told to get exactly what you all are saying is now all wrong. They even have a youtube video explaining the preferred setup. Which all I'm missing from that is the "Vine bridge".
I still have all the lighting from the first little guy, and will get that going. One question though, what do you use as a basking heat source? If the Red heat is a nogo, and the 5.0-10.0's don't produce much heat if any?

As an update; I got this little guy to drink this afternoon. He still doesn't understand the dripper. And his energy still seems OK. I just have not seen him eat anything for what seems like 2 days now? Trying to stay ahead of the game, instead of behind as with the last one that didn't make it. Maybe that has me a little paranoid ehh?

Thanks for the help...
 

KingJulian

New Member
I'm sorry you are getting mixed answers. It is very frustrating in the beginning. I drove myself crazy for 6 months trying to get everything "perfect" before actually purchasing my cham. All I use is a 24 inch 5.0 reptisun UVB bulb (my cage is 2x2x4 feet) and a 75 watt regular house bulb in a light fixture that we got from home depot for heat. My cham is doing awesome! We got him in January. That's him in my avatar. Lights come on at 8am and go off at 8pm. Once they are off, they stay off. We have them on a timer. No night light, or any other lights that can keep him up. We used to have him in the living room and the tv light was keeping him up, so now he's in our room.
 

carol5208

Chameleon Enthusiast
I don't know who gave you the info that uv "was not hot enough" as uv lights in general do not give off any heat. Strange....You were told your cham died because the uv was not hot enough??? They are pretty cool to the touch. If you have a combo uv/uva that is a different story, as they give off heat and uvb all in one, but the majority of us keepers use a separate basking light and uvb light. Also, cannot imagine a breeder telling you a Reptisun is all wrong. The red light yes.
 

maxttu

New Member
To sum this up:

You should have a UVB bulb (5.0 or an equivalent)

I take it that he's pretty young since you're offering pinheads? His basking temp should be no more than 82-85 degrees. You can get a regular 40w housebulb and adjust the distance to get your temps right.


No night light. If you need to provide heat, you can use a ceramic emitter, but only if your room is getting into the low 50's.

Hope this helps...
 

chameleonowner32

Established Member
I'm sorry you are getting mixed answers. It is very frustrating in the beginning. I drove myself crazy for 6 months trying to get everything "perfect" before actually purchasing my cham. All I use is a 24 inch 5.0 reptisun UVB bulb (my cage is 2x2x4 feet) and a 75 watt regular house bulb in a light fixture that we got from home depot for heat. My cham is doing awesome! We got him in January. That's him in my avatar. Lights come on at 8am and go off at 8pm. Once they are off, they stay off. We have them on a timer. No night light, or any other lights that can keep him up. We used to have him in the living room and the tv light was keeping him up, so now he's in our room.
Nice same as me. I use the same light combo for my jax but a 100w bulb for my oustie. Same sleep schedule though
 

KingJulian

New Member
I'm surprised that with all the experienced members on here, that info even made it through a thread. Since I've been a member, I've seen multiple threads asking for setup help and for the most part everybody gives the same response.
 

retroangles

New Member
How did this thread get so accusatory all the sudden? I typed up a post asking for help, and all the sudden it appears I'm on trial for some reason.

The basking UVB bulb I was using is one of the mercury vapor R40 style spot lights. I was told for my size cage to get as close to 100w as possible. The only two choices I had were 120W and 160w, I went with the lower #.

I have been checking both last nite, and all morning (with two thermometers, one an IR) and the hottest part of basking is no greater than 90f, and that's at the very tip top right under light. The place I set as an easy basking spot is 80f. The lower you go the cooler, ending at 70f at bottom which is room temp.

I really do not think that is out of line for a combo UV/heat bulb.

Ok to clear up the other issue about sponsor/videos? I am assuming they are sponsors as they are a very large west coast reptile vendor, and sell/advertise on this site. They (on the phone) pointed me towards thier youtube channel and said watch the "How to set up a veiled Cham cage" as a guide. "They" told me it was basically the same. The rest of the info was givin to me then on the phone!

This will be my last active post. I might lurk a bit, but the way this post went has really turned me off as rather unfriendly.

Weird part is I have a 2yo Veiled doing freakin awesome, and two R. Temporalis that are also thriving. So it's not like I just decided to get a pretty lizard on a whim.
 
Top Bottom