Hello and welcome! I can chime in to help while we are waiting for Beman and Kinyonga to continue to assist you.
Did you take your sweet girl to an exotic vet with chameleon care experience? Because chameleons are such a unique animal with very specific husbandry requirements, it's important to find a vet with experience in them in order to help her the best. Let me know if you need help looking for a vet near you.
Enclosure - you will need a minimum size of 24x24x48. Great examples can be found
here,
here, and
here. The Dragon Strand enclosures are amazing, and I especially like them because, depending on where you live and the humidity levels in your home, you can get a hybrid cage that will help hold in humidity levels.
Lighting - You will need a HO T5 Linear bulb. Either 5% or 6%, depending on the brand you get. Here is the
fixture for the linear light, and this is the
light you will need. The Archadia bulb you will need to replace the light every 12 months; just to be safe, I put a sticker on my fixture of the date I last replaced the light, and I replace the light every 11 months.
Handling - I personally would not recommend handling unless absolutely necessary, especially if you are worried about her laying eggs and MBD. Chameleons are very shy creatures and stress easily. View them as more like a goldfish. It's are really cool pet that you look at and visually enjoy. I don't handle my chameleons unless I have to (cleaning their enclosure, taking them to the vet, and for a visual check to ensure they look healthy). My veiled has a more subtle way of communicating with me that she is stressed, she will puff her body out to look bigger, and she gets black/brown stripes on the sides of her body. Very rarely will she gape at me or puff out her gular (neck). My panther instantly gapes at me every time.
Fantastic with getting her some natural sunlight! I bet she loves that!
Humidity & Hydration- During the day you want her humidity levels to be around 40-50%, at night, you want her humidity levels to be 80-100%. You want the humidity to drop during the day because between the high humidity level and the heat in the enclosure, she could develop an upper respiratory infection. High humidity at night with lower temperatures (60-70 degrees) will help keep her hydrated at night. Mist in the morning just before her lights turn on so she has a drinking opportunity in the morning when she first wakes up. At night, mist her enclosure after her lights turn off so that the mist on the leaves, this will help hold in humidity at night. If you cant keep the humidity levels high enough at night, you can get a fog machine to go off at night to help with that.
What kind of dripper do you have?
Feeding & Supplements - Crickets are awesome feeders, super worms are more of a 'treat' bug and arent as nutritional as crickets, dubia roaches, BSFL, or silkworms. You will want to dust her bugs every feeding with phosphorus-free calcium without vitamin d supplement and then every 1st and 15th of every month dust her feeders with Repashy LoD, you can buy that
here. A link for the calcium can be found
here. I like to buy my feeders
here. You will want to gut load your bugs with sweet potatoes, apple, carrots, red pepper, and mustard greens. I feed my bugs fresh produce every other day.
Temperatures - For your sweet girl, her basking temperature should be around 80-85 degrees. The ambient temperature of her enclosure should be around 72-75 degrees during the day and then at night you want a temperature drop around 60 degrees. The temperature drop allows her to get a good night's rest.
I wouldn't change anything until after she has laid her eggs, but maybe you can start getting the stuff you need while you are waiting. Let us know what else we can do to help!
Many chams (like all of mine) are secretive drinkers.
