Re-homed 6mo old Vieled

b1298

New Member
Hi all, I just re-homed a relatively young male veiled from a previous owner. Unfortunately the poor guy is about to undergo shedding too, so it’s probably pretty stressful. Day one was great but on day two he really went to pale, drab colours. I have three possible reasons (the move, slightly different conditions, or the shedding) and I want to start ruling them out to get him happy again! So I was wondering if anyone had any experience rehoming a veiled of that age before.. and if they had an angry adjustment period? Or how long I could expect that to take. I should say, he’s eating little bits (not as much as he should but) and drinking and exploring lots too..
 

b1298

New Member
Welcome to the forum!

Please post some photos of him for us!
Moving a chameleon can cause issues fora few days as they adjust.
Thanks! Here’s a photo when he is happy and basking in the am before he sees too much of me! Haha
 

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b1298

New Member
Welcome to the forum!

Please post some photos of him for us!
Moving a chameleon can cause issues fora few days as they adjust?
Okay and this is after I try to give him some food and make sure he’s plenty misted etc
 

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Beman

Social Media Manager
Staff member
Hi there can you post pics of the entire cage including the lighting on top. Sometimes their reactions are due to a change in environment. Sometimes it is due to the environment not being set up correctly for them.

How are you feeding him?
 

b1298

New Member
Hi there can you post pics of the entire cage including the lighting on top. Sometimes their reactions are due to a change in environment. Sometimes it is due to the environment not being set up correctly for them.

How are you feeding him?
I can when I’m back home, yes! I do have the cage set up almost identically to the previous owner (I photographed and mimicked their design). Essentially, right now he has a UVB strip light at the front of the cage, a duo UVB/heat light positioned over his basking perch, and then a ceramic heat bulb near his sleeping spot too. Temp ranges from 73 at the bottom to 95ish up at the top. I’ve been trying to keep humidity near 80%.

The previous owner hand/forcep fed him crickets and then had a bowl for other goodies. We doesn’t trust me enough yet to do hand feeding… but he will eat (probably 1/2 to 3/4 of what he previously ate) if I put crickets + worms in a bowl. We are only on day 2.5 I should say too. Also** he’s very happy before going to bed and all night.. it’s just about 1 hour after waking up I notice he seems upset.
 

Beman

Social Media Manager
Staff member
I can when I’m back home, yes! I do have the cage set up almost identically to the previous owner (I photographed and mimicked their design). Essentially, right now he has a UVB strip light at the front of the cage, a duo UVB/heat light positioned over his basking perch, and then a ceramic heat bulb near his sleeping spot too. Temp ranges from 73 at the bottom to 95ish up at the top. I’ve been trying to keep humidity near 80%.

The previous owner hand/forcep fed him crickets and then had a bowl for other goodies. We doesn’t trust me enough yet to do hand feeding… but he will eat (probably 1/2 to 3/4 of what he previously ate) if I put crickets + worms in a bowl. We are only on day 2.5 I should say too. Also** he’s very happy before going to bed and all night.. it’s just about 1 hour after waking up I notice he seems upset.
So it sounds like the old owner did not know exactly what to provide.

You would use a T5HO linear fixture with a 5.0 or 6% bulb. This should be 8-9 inches away from the closest branch. You would not use the coil bulb.

Temps are far too high. Temps this high will dehydrate and kill a chameleon. Basking temps at the branch should be in a range of 80-85. Most of us keep our males at about 82.

Ceramic heat emitters are not recommended unless your night time temps fall below 50. They have to have a cool down at night. Often these put out far too much heat that can even lead to thermal burns.

Ambient temps in the cage should be low 70's.

Humidity for daytime should be in the range of 30-50% max.

We do not recommend tong feeding because of potential injury to the tongue if the tong is hit instead of the feeder. Either a feeder run or being cup fed is recommended. you can hand feed when you build trust up but you should not feed the entire meal this way. Otherwise the cham becomes dependent on you for food. Does not work well if you leave and go on vacation.

Your moss vines are dangerous with a veiled. They are like toddlers everything goes into their mouths. So impaction risk is high when using these. They also can grow bacteria.

If you would like to double check all of your husbandry you can fill out the form below by copy and pasting it into your reply then be detailed in your responses. Include pics of the entire cage and lighting on top and of the chameleon.


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

b1298

New Member
So it sounds like the old owner did not know exactly what to provide.

You would use a T5HO linear fixture with a 5.0 or 6% bulb. This should be 8-9 inches away from the closest branch. You would not use the coil bulb.

Temps are far too high. Temps this high will dehydrate and kill a chameleon. Basking temps at the branch should be in a range of 80-85. Most of us keep our males at about 82.

Ceramic heat emitters are not recommended unless your night time temps fall below 50. They have to have a cool down at night. Often these put out far too much heat that can even lead to thermal burns.

Ambient temps in the cage should be low 70's.

Humidity for daytime should be in the range of 30-50% max.

We do not recommend tong feeding because of potential injury to the tongue if the tong is hit instead of the feeder. Either a feeder run or being cup fed is recommended. you can hand feed when you build trust up but you should not feed the entire meal this way. Otherwise the cham becomes dependent on you for food. Does not work well if you leave and go on vacation.

Your moss vines are dangerous with a veiled. They are like toddlers everything goes into their mouths. So impaction risk is high when using these. They also can grow bacteria.

If you would like to double check all of your husbandry you can fill out the form below by copy and pasting it into your reply then be detailed in your responses. Include pics of the entire cage and lighting on top and of the chameleon.
Oh wow! Okay yes, those are very different than how the previous owner had him.. Perhaps I was attempting to mimic a bad environment. Thanks so much for the detailed feedback, I'm going to make many changes today and remove those vines. Thanks again, and I'll fill out the form later toady.
 

b1298

New Member
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Okay here’s the full form!

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Male veiled. ~6 months old. At day 3 in new home.
  • Handling - haven’t handled in new home yet. We did before he moved though.
  • Feeding - Mostly crickets, a few meal worms. He’s eating 5-6 individuals a day (1/3 to 2/3 of what he normally eats). Once daily calcium and once weekly vitamins.
  • Supplements - Once daily calcium and once weekly vitamins.
  • Watering - I mist leaves by hand once a day a few hours before bed. He also has an automatic mister that comes on once every 3 hours for 30 seconds + a fogger that comes on during the night.
  • Fecal Description - I haven’t noticed any dropping yet, although I did clear out the substrate I was given. A few more days and I’ll worry.
  • History - newly rehomed, day 3.
  • Cage Info: .
  • Cage Type - 24 x 24 x 48 mesh cage. I have two sides covered with breathable fabric at the moment.
  • Lighting - linear fixture with 6% UVB bulb + heat lamp. Basking spot 8.5 inches from uvb lamp
  • Temperature - 72 ambient, mid to high 70’s in the middle of tank + 82 in basking spot at the moment.
  • Humidity - 40-50 daytime, ~70 nighttime. Maintained with mister and fogger. Monitored with internal monitor.
  • Plants -yes, one Ivy and 2 monstera.
  • Placement - 2 feet off the floor—top of cage ~8feet high— in the back of the living room. Not near any fans or drafts, but it’s an open room. Moderate traffic.
  • Location - east coast Canada
Re problem: he’s moving around, exploring, drinking, and eating little bits. But just his colour is just making me a little nervous + day three in new home and haven’t noticed a poop yet. Thanks again for checking this over for me and he’s a photo of his home now that I’ve cleaned it all out!
 

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Beman

Social Media Manager
Staff member
Okay here’s the full form!

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Male veiled. ~6 months old. At day 3 in new home.
  • Handling - haven’t handled in new home yet. We did before he moved though.
  • Feeding - Mostly crickets, a few meal worms. He’s eating 5-6 individuals a day (1/3 to 2/3 of what he normally eats). Once daily calcium and once weekly vitamins.
  • Supplements - Once daily calcium and once weekly vitamins.
  • Watering - I mist leaves by hand once a day a few hours before bed. He also has an automatic mister that comes on once every 3 hours for 30 seconds + a fogger that comes on during the night.
  • Fecal Description - I haven’t noticed any dropping yet, although I did clear out the substrate I was given. A few more days and I’ll worry.
  • History - newly rehomed, day 3.
  • Cage Info: .
  • Cage Type - 24 x 24 x 48 mesh cage. I have two sides covered with breathable fabric at the moment.
  • Lighting - linear fixture with 6% UVB bulb + heat lamp. Basking spot 8.5 inches from uvb lamp
  • Temperature - 72 ambient, mid to high 70’s in the middle of tank + 82 in basking spot at the moment.
  • Humidity - 40-50 daytime, ~70 nighttime. Maintained with mister and fogger. Monitored with internal monitor.
  • Plants -yes, one Ivy and 2 monstera.
  • Placement - 2 feet off the floor—top of cage ~8feet high— in the back of the living room. Not near any fans or drafts, but it’s an open room. Moderate traffic.
  • Location - east coast Canada
Re problem: he’s moving around, exploring, drinking, and eating little bits. But just his colour is just making me a little nervous + day three in new home and haven’t noticed a poop yet. Thanks again for checking this over for me and he’s a photo of his home now that I’ve cleaned it all out!
Can you post a picture of the bottom of the enclosure as well please. and a pic of the labels of your supplements.
 

b1298

New Member

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Beman

Social Media Manager
Staff member
Ok so this is going to be a ton of info... See my feedback in bold. Most important aspects to address asap are supplements and enclosure layout.

Chameleon Info:


  • Your Chameleon - Male veiled. ~6 months old. At day 3 in new home.
  • Handling - haven’t handled in new home yet. We did before he moved though. I would wait a week or two after all cage changes have been made to even attempt this. I would recommend starting with trust building first. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
  • Feeding - Mostly crickets, a few meal worms. He’s eating 5-6 individuals a day (1/3 to 2/3 of what he normally eats). Once daily calcium and once weekly vitamins. How are you feeding him? Feeder run, cup, loose in the cage? What are the size of the feeders? If they are too big they will back off them. Do not feed mealworms they are low in nutritional value. See image below for options. At his age he should be eating about a dozen a day.
  • Supplements - Once daily calcium and once weekly vitamins. Zoomed calcium with D3 and Reptivite with D3. This is part of the issue. If these were the supplements he was on prior then he is being over dosed on D3. With the two you linked you have the incorrect calcium. You want the without D3 version. The calcium without D3 would be used at every feeding. Then the reptivite with D3 would only be used two times a month say the 1st and the 15th.
  • Watering - I mist leaves by hand once a day a few hours before bed. He also has an automatic mister that comes on once every 3 hours for 30 seconds + a fogger that comes on during the night. Is the cage drying out completely between mistings? You may need to add a dripper if urate is more than 50% orange.
  • Fecal Description - I haven’t noticed any dropping yet, although I did clear out the substrate I was given. A few more days and I’ll worry.
  • History - newly rehomed, day 3.
  • Cage Info: .
  • Cage Type - 24 x 24 x 48 mesh cage. I have two sides covered with breathable fabric at the moment. You can actually use something like duct window film to cover the back and two sides. this will make it so that the overspray does not coat your walls as well. You hook it to the outside of the cage. I would not use fabric just because this will retain moisture and mildew. Leading to stagnant air.
  • Lighting - linear fixture with 6% UVB bulb + heat lamp. Basking spot 8.5 inches from uvb lamp This is correct. But you need some horizontal branches. There are many verticals but they need to be able to utilize the entire cage. You could get something like dragon ledges from dragon strand to have anchor points. Some people have cut down plastic lattice to line the inside sides and back of the cage. This works well too because you can anchor branches and vines to it. Lighting should be a 12 hour on 12 hour total darkness cycle.
  • Temperature - 72 ambient, mid to high 70’s in the middle of tank + 82 in basking spot at the moment. These are good. Just make sure you are checking basking with a gauge that has a probe. The probe should be zip tied to the branch below the heat. This will give you an accurate reading. Typically we use 60 watt regular bulbs for heat with about 10 inches to the branches below. This helps limit thermal burn risk.
  • Humidity - 40-50 daytime, ~70 nighttime. Maintained with mister and fogger. Monitored with internal monitor. Make sure that your getting a temp drop below 67 at night if you are fogging. Besides needing a night time cool down they need the temp reduction with fogging to ensure there is not a respiratory infection risk.
  • Plants -yes, one Ivy and 2 monstera. You want to fill out the cage with plants. Remove all fake ones. Get taller centerpiece veiled tested plants. Put 1inch or larger river rock on the dirt of the plant to keep him out of it.
  • Placement - 2 feet off the floor—top of cage ~8feet high— in the back of the living room. Not near any fans or drafts, but it’s an open room. Moderate traffic.
  • Location - east coast Canada
Re problem: he’s moving around, exploring, drinking, and eating little bits. But just his colour is just making me a little nervous + day three in new home and haven’t noticed a poop yet. Thanks again for checking this over for me and he’s a photo of his home now that I’ve cleaned it all out!

Once the enclosure and supplements are corrected you should see improved color. Right now he is stressed and has had a lot of changes. Overdose of D3 can cause many issues for them as well. It will take a few weeks for the levels to reduce in his system if this has been the supplement routine prior to you.

Start reading everything here. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/
and all modules here https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/


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b1298

New Member
Thank you so much for all the info. Im very glad you were here so quick to help me out. I'm going to get new supplement right away and some new plants for him too! + a few small other changes.
 
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