Rango’s Casque

[Rango_TheManEater]

On one of my forums, I was told that Rango’s casque looked a bit sunken. (He’s a Veiled Cham)

Maybe it’s because he has MBD, or maybe it’s not sunken at all? Either way, it’s stuck in my mind and I can’t help but feel a bit concerned.

(Yes, he has been eating all of his calcium only-dusted worms, twice daily. He eats 2–4 in one sitting, depending on how hungry he is. Alternatively, I will also feed him crickets. These are also calcium-dusted.)

The last picture was taken on the day that I brought him home, if it helps!

 

[LizardLurkin]

I can't answer your question, but he looks like pretty autumn leaves in the first two images. I've never seen a veiled so orangey and brown like that.

 

[ehdee6]

Those are some intense orange colors! ... Jinx @LizardLurkin

Are you able to show a picture of your full enclosure? Vailed Chameleons eat their plants. I caught my little female completely mowing down, full smorgasbord, between her ficus and pothos today. That's why we worry about fake plants.

Have you filled out the husbandry questions? (Below?)

He might be deflating himself as a way of being scared. Do you have any other current pictures of him? He looked a healthy weight in your find him picture.

Extra recent pictures will be super helpful too.

Questions...

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[Rango_TheManEater]

Those are some intense orange colors! ... Jinx @LizardLurkin

Are you able to show a picture of your full enclosure? Vailed Chameleons eat their plants. I caught my little female completely mowing down, full smorgasbord, between her ficus and pothos today. That's why we worry about fake plants.

Have you filled out the husbandry questions? (Below?)

He might be deflating himself as a way of being scared. Do you have any other current pictures of him? He looked a healthy weight in your find him picture.

Extra recent pictures will be super helpful too.

Questions...

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

I haven’t filled those out, but I’ll get to it now! Rango’s enclosure is temporary until I can afford a taller one (which should be very soon), so please excuse the lack of height.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? / Rango is a male veiled chameleon. He’s been in my care for about a month now
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? / Twice daily!
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? / Rango eats (medium) super worms, always dusted in calcium-only powder. 2–4 at a time. I usually feed him at 11 AM, and then again at 5-6 PM. I gut load via a blend of approved vegetables/fruits, etc from the image below. I also feed him crickets, which will be put into a feeder if he doesn’t eat from me.
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? / At the moment, I feed every worm of his with calcium dusted on top. I’m working on using Reptivite as well (twice monthly).
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? / I hand-mist Rango’s tank twice a day, once before his light comes on and once when it turns off. I never see him drink, but his urates are eggshell-white.
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? / No, he has not been tested. I don’t see dropping often, but the ones that I do appear healthy (urates, as previously stated, are healthily colored!)
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. / I bought him from Petco, and immediately recognized his elbows were wonky. Poor little man has MBD

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? / Glass with a screen top. It’s an old snake tank and, as previously mentioned, will be replaced fairly soon!
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? / Zoomed, I think? I have two UVB lights (because I do not have a long light), as well as a basking lamp in the corner. The UVB lights, as far as I remember, are 60 watt. One is a daylight blue stimulation, and the other assists his MBD (I have forgotten what exact light it is)
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? / I have two stick-on temperature thinggies on the side of his tank. Rango’s temperatures gradient from 70 (cold spot) to 85 (basking). The lowest overnight temp would be around 64/65.
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? / Humidity is 20-30% at day, 80-100% at night. I create these levels by watering his enclosure properly if the level needs raised, although I’m not too sure about how I can lower it. I have two humidity monitors on the side of his tank (inside).
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? / Pothos and English Ivy. There are small clusters of (non-toxic) fake plants, but I try not to add too much in case Rango is drawn to them.
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? / Rango’s cage sits on top of my old desk, I would say 2-3 feet off of the ground. Yes, there is a fan on the lid of his tank, but it’s to lower his temps at night and is never pointing directly into the cage. He’s in my bedroom, so there’s not much traffic here.
• Location - Where are you geographically located? / Iowa! It’s not very tropical here, unfortunately, but I try to make it work.

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. / Rango’s casque

Any further advice or questions are welcome

 

[BleuSaphir]

Entirely change the UVB fixtures for T5.

 

[nightanole]

Entirely change the UVB fixtures for T5.

There is an issue with this. Rango is in a fish tank. If they install a T5HO its going to be way too much.

On the other hand Rango is getting a cage makeover soon. And then boom they can switch to T5


But Rango does have MBD, or had it in the past. So thats why his casque looks the way it does. I mean just look at the front legs, hes got two elbows, so the bones were broke or highly deformed. Maybe the bones are now up to snuff thanks to OP, but they dont straighten just because you correct the lighting/calcium/D3 issues.

Plus OP has only had Rango for a month.

 

[ehdee6]

As the others said, the MDB is likely a factor in his appearance.

I know you're working on getting a new cage. If you're able to get him into a screen cage that's 24"x24" and 4 foot tall, and a T5 light kit with a 5.0 zoomed bulb (bulbs last 6 months), or an Arcadia 6% bulb (bulbs last a year), it would be a huge benefit for his health. The T5 lights also helps his body absorb the calcium and will greatly help with the MDB.

Are you dusting your crickets with calcium too? - All bugs should be dusted. It's best to feed him all at once in the morning to help him digest in the day, so he's not sleeping with a full belly.

I'd watch him when he's shedding in case he starts rubbing himself on the vine with moss, he might rub his face on it and get some in his eye. It's sadly a common thing.

When you get the new cage I'd also recommend getting a temperature/hydrometer with probe, like this. The ones with probes are more accurate, those stick on ones might work in a glass tank, but won't do in a screen one.

What is the substrate in the bottom? Is it bioactive? Chams can catch respiratory infections really easy. That's why we monitor their heat and humidity so closely and mostly use screen or hybrid cages. If it's too hot and the cage never fully dries out, or the air is wet and stagnant, they'll easily catch an infection.

Do you have a time frame for when you'll get a new cage? Is there any way to make that set-up vertical, if it's going to take a while? (You'd need to figure out how to have the lights still facing the screen - just brainstorming in case you can't get him into something else within the next month, or so.)

 

[LizardLurkin]

The Reptibreeze XL goes on sale here and there. This is the accepted minimum for chameleons, and they will thrive in this space. It's an affordable option, due to it's material, and a lot of space for your dear boy to inhabit. I would say that an enclosure upgrade along with the T5 fixture is very important next step for Rango.

I also notice you said you fed superworms.
There is an issue with this, because they are not staple feeders. They're basically lizard potato chips, and they can get addicted. I've seen tale of chameleons refusing to eat all else besides the supers.

I really recommend dubiaroaches.com as a source of feeder insects. Supers are like a once-a-week treat, and can be used for bonding!

 

[Rango_TheManEater]

As the others said, the MDB is likely a factor in his appearance.

I know you're working on getting a new cage. If you're able to get him into a screen cage that's 24"x24" and 4 foot tall, and a T5 light kit with a 5.0 zoomed bulb (bulbs last 6 months), or an Arcadia 6% bulb (bulbs last a year), it would be a huge benefit for his health. The T5 lights also helps his body absorb the calcium and will greatly help with the MDB.

Are you dusting your crickets with calcium too? - All bugs should be dusted. It's best to feed him all at once in the morning to help him digest in the day, so he's not sleeping with a full belly.

I'd watch him when he's shedding in case he starts rubbing himself on the vine with moss, he might rub his face on it and get some in his eye. It's sadly a common thing.

When you get the new cage I'd also recommend getting a temperature/hydrometer with probe, like this. The ones with probes are more accurate, those stick on ones might work in a glass tank, but won't do in a screen one.

What is the substrate in the bottom? Is it bioactive? Chams can catch respiratory infections really easy. That's why we monitor their heat and humidity so closely and mostly use screen or hybrid cages. If it's too hot and the cage never fully dries out, or the air is wet and stagnant, they'll easily catch an infection.

Do you have a time frame for when you'll get a new cage? Is there any way to make that set-up vertical, if it's going to take a while? (You'd need to figure out how to have the lights still facing the screen - just brainstorming in case you can't get him into something else within the next month, or so.)

I’m actually working on brainstorming a way to rotate his cage, too! Unfortunately, placing the heat lamp on the glass would dim the effect and likely crack it… and UVB doesn’t work through glass . Maybe I could use a metal wire to attach the lamps to the lid? Nothing plastic… it would obviously melt or burn.

The substance on the bottom (that I think you’re talking about) is some terrarium wood chips I picked up at the pet store when I first got him. If I’m being completely honest, I have no idea if it’s bioactive

Anyway, thank you for the advice! I’ll alter his meal times and work on getting a probe. Also, yes— his crickets are also dusted. It’s calcium city for Rango, and he’s not complaining!

 

[Rango_TheManEater]

The Reptibreeze XL goes on sale here and there. This is the accepted minimum for chameleons, and they will thrive in this space. It's an affordable option, due to it's material, and a lot of space for your dear boy to inhabit. I would say that an enclosure upgrade along with the T5 fixture is very important next step for Rango.

I also notice you said you fed superworms.
There is an issue with this, because they are not staple feeders. They're basically lizard potato chips, and they can get addicted. I've seen tale of chameleons refusing to eat all else besides the supers.
View attachment 365106
I really recommend dubiaroaches.com as a source of feeder insects. Supers are like a once-a-week treat, and can be used for bonding!

Good to know! Since he’s young, I would hate for him to gain too much weight or become an addict… but I’ll make sure he gets them as a treat occasionally

I was actually looking at a similar tank in-person. Thank you for showing me this link— the other option I found was over $300 for a smaller tank!

 

[ehdee6]

Unfortunately, placing the heat lamp on the glass would dim the effect and likely crack it… and UVB doesn’t work through glass ..Maybe I could use a metal wire to attach the lamps to the lid? ..

Yes! Please don't place lights on glass, ever!

Maybe a lamp stand that points at the mesh? Totally just brainstorming, and have not seen it done and can't advise doing without through research.

I would 100% recommend a reptibreeze as an affordable option. My reptibreeze build's for my chams are here.

It's always good to give them as much food options as possible. I'm really limited in my location, but try to give them a different bug with each feeding.

I'm not totally sure about the substrate. But @MissSkittles is the queen of bioactive in screen cages.

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi! You’ve gotten some great feedback for your precious guy. I do have a few comments and additions for you. The first is have you taken him to a vet yet? He does have significant mbd, and a vet can help greatly with his recovery…vitamin injections, special more potent calcium, etc. He will recover with proper husbandry alone, but it will take longer. How is his muscle strength and mobility? Has he fallen at all or had any difficulty maneuvering around? Some animals with mbd need modified environments. I’ve no personal experience with treating mbd like this, so can’t offer more than what I’ve said. I don’t know if you’ve heard of Sweet Pea, the chameleon. Sweet girl was a veiled who had horrible mbd and was given special care and modifications so that she could have her best life. You can see her whole story on Instagram. Here’s a little memorial to her.

Sweet Pea loved her silkworms and they are a wonderful nutritious and hydrating option to add. Dubia (or discoid) roaches are another. I try to always have at least two staple feeders to offer and will change things up often. Many on line feeder insect vendors sell combo/variety packs, which are great. This is just one of them. https://www.rainbowmealworms.net/chameleon-sampler-pack/ Here’s another. https://www.lindasgonebuggie.com/page/419991568 As you can see, each offers different feeders in their packs.
What calcium are you using? Does it have vitamin D3 in it? Hopefully not. Unless otherwise directed by your veterinarian, you want to use a phosphorus-free calcium without D3, lightly dusted at every feeding (except when using the multivitamin/D3 combo). Does your ReptiVite have D3 in it? I hope it does, as this is the easiest to ensure your fella gets all that he needs.
Until your guy recovers from mbd and is able to move around without falling, the tank is actually not a bad thing. The primary concerns that I have about it is making sure he is getting the correct levels of uvb, not being baked, humidity is able to remain low and there is very poor air circulation which can result in respiratory infection. You don’t need all of those lights…just one for basking and the linear T5 ho for uvb. I advise elevating the uvb several inches above the top so that the distance between the light and basking branch is 8-9”. May as well elevate the basking light too to help prevent burns from being too near. I would start now though building his permanent enclosure. ReptiBreeze is often on sale super cheap on line and is decent enough. Or if you want a slightly better but similar enclosure, DIY is quite nice. I do see the price has increased significantly, likely due to tariffs. It is a good enclosure though. https://www.diycages.com/collection...umbo-vertical-screen-cage?variant=35995105933
Before assembling the screen enclosure, you will want to figure out how you plan on attaching branches and plants. There are Dragon Ledges https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/ which are fantastic. I’ve started using garden trellis, which works almost as well. If interested, let me know and I’ll post pics and explain how I did it.
To cut this a bit short, (not feeling so great) I would get rid of the English ivy, which is toxic. Most ivies are, and since veiled chams eat their plants, I advise getting any. There are lots of beautiful plants that are great for chameleons. This will help you. https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
I can’t think atm, but when feeling better I’ll come back and see if I missed anything.