Questions

[Ellron]

Hey guys! I have a couple of questions. I am looking into getting a veiled Chameleon from http://www.flchams.com/inventory_all.asp?id=1026&cham=Veiled%20Chameleons%20For%20Sale. I was wondering which sex would have the most vibrant color. I was looking around the web and in the sponsor area for enclosures. I found this enclosure, http://www.screameleons.com/setup_kit_video.htm at Screameleons. Does this look like a good cage set-up?

Also, has anyone ordered from Screameleons or FLChams? If so did you have a good experience?!

Thank you very much!

 

[kinyonga]

If you don't know whether the males or females are more colorful then I would suggest you do a lot more studying before you buy one. Without proper knowledge of husbandry including supplementation, gutloading, proper lighting and temperatures a chameleon will have little chance of surviving for very long without developing health issues.

Here are some sites to get you started...
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20060421.../index.php?show=6.Vitamin.D3.and.Calcium.html
http://chameleonnews.com/?page=article&id=102
http://adcham.com/
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/

 

[Ellron]

Thank you. I think I've been researching for a little over 6 months now on and off.

 

[Ellron]

I have also read on the links provided by Kinyonga that crickets are better gut-loaded with supplements than dusted. What is the best thing to feed crickets and other feeder insects to ensure their maximum supplement dose? The whole supplment thing is kind of confusing. Could someone just spell it out for me in plain english? I understand that the Chams need lots of supplements. What is the ideal regiment? I know I have lots of questions, but I figure its better to ask them now, then later.

Thank you again!

 

[pssh]

Gutload for crickets/superworms/roaches and other like bugs: greens like kale, collards, mustard greens, dandelion greens, endive, and escarole. Veggies like carrots, squash, yams, sweet peppers, and celery leaves. Fruits like raspberries, papaya, apple, and oranges. A good high quality dry gutload would be a good idea in addition to all this.

Veileds require calcium without d3 at most feedings (at least 5 times a week as babies,) a calcium with d3 two-four times a month, and a multivitamin without vit A once a month.

Please use the search feature on this forum as all this info has been discussed many times over.

 

[kinyonga]

Nutrient imbalances are one of the most common problems encountered in chameleons with one of the most common being MBD.

Calcium, phosphorus, D3 and vitamin A are all important players in bone health and in other systems in the body and they need to be in balance.

Since many of the insects we use as feeders have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. its important to dust at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.

Dusting twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder will ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. The rest of the D3 it needs should be produced by exposure to UVB. D3 from supplements can build up in the system, so caution is advised. D3 from exposure to UVB should not build up as long as the chameleon can move out of the UVB into the "shade".

Dusting with vitamins twice a month with a powder that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A will help ensure that the chameleon gets its vitamins without overdosing the vitamin A. Beta carotene (prOformed) vitamin A can not build up in the system like prEformed sources can....however there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene...so some people use a little prEformed once in a while. Excess prEformed may interfere with the D3 and push the chameleon towards MBD...so don't overdo it.

Appropriate temperatures aid in digestion and play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Gutloading/feeding the insects a nutritious diet also helps.

BTW...more it not better when it comes to supplements.

 

[ShaunaLynnA]

everything written here is good information. I would suggest more research be done though as well before your purchase to make sure you know for sure what your getting in to. You should be able to at least answer that first wuestion you asked after reasearch on your own if not for sure all your questions.

 

[Ellron]

So this is what I've gathered here and other places. Im going to ask a question and answer it with what I think is correct. Tell me if I'm right, or wrong. Thanks!

Q. Why do I need to dust my crickets?

A. Dusting your crickets with vitamins are key to keeping your chameleon healthy. Without them, your chameleon is at risk of developing problems such as Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and eye problems.

Q. What supplements should I use?

A. Everyone has a different preference when it comes to dusting. preferably use Rep-Cal with D3 for chameleons kept indoors, in addition to Herptivite.

Q. How often should I dust?

A.This depends on the age of your chameleon. Chameleons 1-10 months old should receive Rep-Cal with D3 every other day and Herptivite twice a week. Chameleons 10-18 months should receive both twice a week. Chameleons 18+ months should receive both once a week.


Q. How much dust should I use?

The key is lightly dusting your crickets. Do not cake them! over-supplementing is just as bad as under-supplementing.

Q. What about pre-formed Vitamin A?

A. If you are going to use pre-formed Vitamin A, use Zoomed's Reptivite. Use this sparingly. We recommend using this product once every 2 weeks.


What do we gutload with?
Leafy greens, not broccoli or spinach. Carrots, some commercial dry gutloads....

Crickets, Silkworms, Mealworms O.K?
Super worms are better than mealworms because the shell is not as hard. Typically stick to feeders that are smaller than the width of the Chameleons head.