Problems with very 1st Cham...

Decker01

New Member
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon -Veiled Chameleon, Female, aprox 5/6 months, My care for 1 month
Handling - I like to handle her once a day or when shes happy 2 times a day but lately its been once a day for like 10 mins bc she hates me.
Feeding - I like to feed crickets and mealworms. at time of purchaseshe was eating roughly 10 small crickets a meal or 5-7 big and mostly about 7 mealworms but that depends on how long it takes to coax her out or if she hasnt been eating-- wich is the problem! yes I gut load (rotation of potatoes, oranges, carrots, and dark greens)
Supplements - Flukers calcium dust w/ vitamin D (phosphorus free). Feeders are dusted both meals on mondays and thursdays and a bit on her greans on saturdays.
Watering - I just use a hand held spray bottle with warm water. I mist about 25/30 seconds. Yes I see him drink but he likes to drink from the water dish (always has. ive know him since we got it shipped to the store).
Fecal Description - Normally its dark brown 2 pellets with a little bit of white at the top. It all had come out just fine but then a couple days ago she stopped pooping for a day and a half. She went yesterday but i was more than normal same consistancy but I came home today and her poo was lighter brown and runny. More of a choclate pudding look/cosistancy.
No parasite testings that im aware of.
History - Lately we've been having attitude/ problems. Prior to joining the forum I was relying on some books and the specialists at work (i work at a Petsmart) and they had given me helpful things. HOWEVER a new girl told/ showed me that I could just pick it up to move it or gather it with was to grab it from behind. Im so upset that i listened to her bc it has completely ruined our "bond". Now my Cham is VERY agressive. any time i put my hand in there she puffs up. I get near her and she hisses and gapes. I try and get her onto my hand and she attacks me- like littrally attacks me!

Cage Info:
Cage Type - 18x18x24 glass and screen combo. (yes I know its small- trying to build my own)
Lighting - Repti-sun UVA/UVB bulb, All living things 50 watt heat infrared bulb. Lights go on when i get up wich does vary based on my schedule and then genreally off by 10.
Temperature - Basking spot fluctualtes (idk why?) between 85-90, lowest spot average 70 degrees. digital thermometer up top by basking lamp and dials on the side at the bottom. Night tends to be 65-68
Humidity - I mist 3-4x a day and its about 70. Heavy misting seems to flood the terrarium. I have a hygrometer dial in the middle of the tank.
Plants - No live plants, just lots of silken plants from the store and some vines.
Placement - By a window with blinds down. maybe 3 feet away if a return vent for warmer air. I sleep with a fan on right by my bed but its not near her at all. Room is only trafficed during the nights and mornings when we wake up or go to sleep. and its maybe 2? feet off the ground?
Location - Im not sure how to anwer this one, but im on the 2nd floor of my house?...

Anything to help would be greatly appreciated!! I feel really bad because she seems unhappy. Her last shed was around Christmas? And then this past week I stared heving apptite issues where she would eat maybe the normal meal and then at 3 the last few days, ate 7 mealworms yesterday and was offered 5 crickets but didnt eat them. She ate 5 worms today and 5 crickets today. I know the mealworms are not the greatest to eat bc they dont digest well but the flailing seems to get her attention vs hunting. I didnt handle her today bc I was afraid of making her super angry so often.. :(
 
Welcome!
couple things.. are you sure its a girl?
if so, shes the right age to begin egg laying. (even when not mated)
you shouldnt feed as many mealworms, as they arnt very good.
your supplements are wrong.
you need a calcium WITHOUT d3 for every feeding, a calcium with d3 twice a month, and a multivitamin twice a month. (you wont find teh without d3 in petsmart, you dont sell it) ;)

Her temps are too high, reduce her basking temps to at most 83, this can help with reducing aclutch size.

if your problem wit her is her attitude, well shes hitting her teen yeras, they get grumpy.
try hand feeding, this can help with your bonding.
do you have a laying bin for her?
assuming it is a girl, and you dont see any tarsal spurs on the back feet. or since shes roughly 5-6 months old, any yellow bars on her sides.
spurs and barring equals a boy.
 
Repti Sun Bulb Might be to hot for her

And the ir red light is not needed. What watt is the Power Sun Bulb? Also you should mist her more than once a day.
 
When my first female, first got gravid she became very mean. I was surprised since she was so friendly since day one. Eventually when she layed her clutch completely she became quite friendly again.

She is an Ambanja panther.
 
My sun bulb is a repti-glo 5.0 bulb. Theres no tarsal spurs but there is pale yellowish stripes on the sides. The little cham that replaced her has little spurs already and hes very young so i believe shes a girl. She was friendly whenI got her but not so much now. I've no Egg laying bin as I was hoping bc shes not been mated that there would be no eggs. Where can I ge the correct suppliments and If I can find a exotic store would they seel the proper suppliments there?
 
Oh and I mist him 3-4 times a day. I felt I should condense my answers and probably deleted it on accident since i like to write stories!
 
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So what exactly is the problem? Its winter time and most will see a decrease in appetite. Your girl seems normal from your description as she ate 5 crickets and worms today. A lot of people don feed there chameleon everyday when they start getting little older particularly females. I usually offer mine food anyways if there hungry they'll eat. Unless you are aware of any other signs or symptoms I think she sounds fine. Shedding usually slows down too as they get older. I can't even remember the last time Ive seen some of my shed its been at least well over a month and I have young chameleons as well. So don't be to concerned about that either.

Just make sure the temps are right at her basking and her cage temps, no drafts, and the humidity is proper. Some times those things get a little off during the winter too and have to make sure to keep an eye in case they are off. Id cool her basking down a little but thats my opinion, she can probably handle it though either way. Id get digital hydrometer/temp all in one more accurate and fairly cheap.


18x18x24 is pretty small to have 90f basking, I find it hard to drop 20degrees in 24inches though too as you said low is 70f. I have a lot of 18x18x24s
 
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Ok, Im just new to the Chameleon world and want to get things right because theyre just awesome! Shes got no unusualt signs/symptoms other than the appitite loss and being grumpy.
 
My sun bulb is a repti-glo 5.0 bulb. Theres no tarsal spurs but there is pale yellowish stripes on the sides. The little cham that replaced her has little spurs already and hes very young so i believe shes a girl. She was friendly whenI got her but not so much now. I've no Egg laying bin as I was hoping bc shes not been mated that there would be no eggs. Where can I ge the correct suppliments and If I can find a exotic store would they seel the proper suppliments there?

Can you take pictures of her and post them? also take pics of the back of the back feet, just to be sure.
I wasnt kiddng when i said she hit her teenage years... they get grumpy around this age. just keep working with her, hand feed her, give her space.
also you can try free ranging her, this help with my guys attitude issues, some anyway.
just because she wont be mated, doesnt mean she wont lay eggs, they can and will layu infertile eggs, male in sight or not.
you need a laying bin, also, a reduciton in food intake can be a sign of needing ot lay.
heres a link to a blog on a laying bin.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/jannb/345-egg-laying-laying-bin.html
Next thing, for supplements, you can get the calcium with d3 and mutlivitmain (reptivite) at petsmart, the calcium without d3 you have to order online.
try one of our site sponsors... they have it.
or you can get repashy all in one calcium plus. it is the only powder you sue, and you use on every feeding. repashy is a site sponsor, heres the link for the stuff. http://www.store.repashy.com/calcium-plus-bag.html

This repashy can be the only supplement you use, instead of thrree seperate powders, you use just one.
 
Ok, Im just new to the Chameleon world and want to get things right because theyre just awesome! Shes got no unusualt signs/symptoms other than the appitite loss and being grumpy.

reduction in appetite and attitude can be a sign of needing to lay.
please please please post pictures of her.
from the sides and the back of the back feet, just to check gender.
and read that laying bin blog i posted. that will give you all the info you need in case she has eggs.
 
Ok, Im just new to the Chameleon world and want to get things right because theyre just awesome! Shes got no unusualt signs/symptoms other than the appitite loss and being grumpy.



Your in the right place to find out some good info, some members have written out blogs on care for veiled chameleons maybe they'll post it or I can find it for you.
 
I will try to upload photos. She has gotten rather chubby.. I will look for a laying bin, and look for that powder. As for free ranging, the best I can do is vacume a room and let it run around on the floor. I dont really have a room where she can have to her self bc the room I want doesnt have an outlet inside it! I'd be afriad it would climb under something or a cat would break into the room.
 
Your in the right place to find out some good info, some members have written out blogs on care for veiled chameleons maybe they'll post it or I can find it for you.

Why thankyou!! I've been wandering around on here for a bout 2 hours and have found some interesting things that books dont quite have. You cant beat talking to people with personal experiances!
 
I will try to upload photos. She has gotten rather chubby.. I will look for a laying bin, and look for that powder. As for free ranging, the best I can do is vacume a room and let it run around on the floor. I dont really have a room where she can have to her self bc the room I want doesnt have an outlet inside it! I'd be afriad it would climb under something or a cat would break into the room.


Well I bet she would appreciate a nice plant to climb on around in the room instead of run around on the floor. You can usually find something at lowes home depot walmart, but most are out of season. Usually still have something if you look. Fake tress I guess would be better than nothing. I prefer not to let mine roam free as I don't have my house chameleon safe and 3 cats.
 
18x18x24 is pretty small to have 90f basking, I find it hard to drop 20degrees in 24inches though too as you said low is 70f. I have a lot of 18x18x24s

For whatever reason it fluctuates a lot. Im not sure why since theres nothing that would make it change. I will turn it on and itll be a nice 85, than Ill come home from work and it was 90 today, 100 a few days ago were I shut it off to cool it down. Ive no idea why it changes so much. Im thinking about returing the lighting fixture because Ive gone through 3 lightbulbs in less then 1 month and maybe the fixtures faulty.
 
For whatever reason it fluctuates a lot. Im not sure why since theres nothing that would make it change. I will turn it on and itll be a nice 85, than Ill come home from work and it was 90 today, 100 a few days ago were I shut it off to cool it down. Ive no idea why it changes so much. Im thinking about returing the lighting fixture because Ive gone through 3 lightbulbs in less then 1 month and maybe the fixtures faulty.

I would use a 40 watt normal house bulb. The old fashion looking ones. They are cheap and work good. I still use a 40 on my adult females in large cages. Get a clamp dome for light to go in. You can get more expensive dome lights that actually dim which is a nice feature when dealing w temp issues since you can always dim and decrease temps or the way.
 
Welcome to the forum and the world of chameleons!

If you are going to use a water dish, it has to be kept very clean. They are havens for bacteria.

Having the cage near the window in a cold area can lead to fungal infections or respiratory infections.

Female veileds can lay eggs without having been mated and so tits recommended that there is an opaque container at least 12" deep x 12" x 8" filled with washed playsand that is moist enough to hold a tunnel kept in their cages so they have a place to dig. Don't wait to do this because if she does need to lay eggs and has no where to do it she will become eggbound and can die.

Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
 
A fake tree would be a good idea. I dont really want it to nibble on a real one and get sick.

theres plenty of real ones a cham can eat that she could be free ranged on so if/when she nibbles, it will be fine.
If you look under the resources tab, in the green bar. you will see a safe plan tlist and you can get some of the ones on there.
 
Ok, wow! Thanks for all the information! I have orderd proper suppliments and have an Update-- She has eaten successfully today and is not very angry. I pulled a little tree from our porch and let her perch of that for a while supervised and I gave it little showers. She seemed to enjoy it!

My water dish is cleaned and refilled in the morning and at night to avoid bacteria.
 
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