Please help

absolutbill

Chameleon Enthusiast
Please stop the second feeding at night - she doesn't have time to digest that before going to bed. Instead, feed the total amount of feeders in the morning - ideally 1 1/2 hours or more after the lights go on in the morning, though with work that's sometimes tough. I see where you said you will be replacing the lights - do you mean the UVB or both? I personally would replace both, just use a traditional incandescent bulb (no color) for basking, though you may have to play around with wattage to get the basking temp correct. The UVB absolutely should be replaced, but I think that's what you were talking about earlier.

As for the laybin, yes you need one, but I would tackle this issue first. Her closing her eyes is never a good sign, so it's important to get to the bottom of that first. I tend to think that once the UVB is replaced you might not have that issue, as everything else is looking pretty good. Keep asking questions, we were all new once.
 

Flick boy

Chameleon Enthusiast
20210717_211822.jpg
Hi so I keep a monthly chart ,feeders ,supplements, poop ,anything and everything no mater how big or how insignificant imo this both helps me, my girl ,and vet if needed
 
Please stop the second feeding at night - she doesn't have time to digest that before going to bed. Instead, feed the total amount of feeders in the morning - ideally 1 1/2 hours or more after the lights go on in the morning, though with work that's sometimes tough. I see where you said you will be replacing the lights - do you mean the UVB or both? I personally would replace both, just use a traditional incandescent bulb (no color) for basking, though you may have to play around with wattage to get the basking temp correct. The UVB absolutely should be replaced, but I think that's what you were talking about earlier.

As for the laybin, yes you need one, but I would tackle this issue first. Her closing her eyes is never a good sign, so it's important to get to the bottom of that first. I tend to think that once the UVB is replaced you might not have that issue, as everything else is looking pretty good. Keep asking questions, we were all new once.
hello. i don’t feed her at night. i know she needs time to bask & digest her food. she gets her second meal several hours before bedtime. I tried feeding all at once in the mornings & came home to thrown up worms or food left untouched. not sure why but her meals split up seemed to work best for us. i appreciate your advice though and thank you!
 
Reptivite has d3 in it I believe unless you got it without D3. I honestly would listen to the knowledgeable people here who care for chams and hav3 done so for years and they recommend plain calcium no D3 every day on feeders, lightly dusted, no powdered donut looking feeders. Then reptivite with D3 twice a month on the first and the 15 th of the month just to make it easy to keep track of it.
it does contain d3. it has several vitamins & minerals. i posted the label just so everyone could see and give a better insight.
 

Lindasjackson

Chameleon Enthusiast
I just looked at her pictures you posted again and she does have a chubby belly at least from what I can see. I wish one of the others would come on because they can usually tell if they’re gravid or not.
 

Sonny13

Chameleon Enthusiast
i agree i thought it would be too much as well but u would assume the vet knows best haha.
Well……tell sell is also for our best interest. No just kidding, its difficult to know which info is the best. Still I believe the ones without interest and without benefit are the best. And the people here are just sharing their free time and experience with love for chams (and please don’t get this wrong)
Experience doesn’t equal qualification
 
I just looked at her pictures you posted again and she does have a chubby belly at least from what I can see. I wish one of the others would come on because they can usually tell if they’re gravid or not.
oh my 😰 she seems so young lol. when i first got her the only thing they told me as far as she was that she’s a juvenile. if i had to guess i’d say 3 months. maybe 4 since i’ve had her for about a month. i’ll attach a pic of her the day she came home.
 

Attachments

  • 9679FFFC-0CAD-4F01-A251-765140C7504A.jpeg
    9679FFFC-0CAD-4F01-A251-765140C7504A.jpeg
    219.5 KB · Views: 22
  • E890CB58-CD47-4198-9D3C-F410F9B9714D.jpeg
    E890CB58-CD47-4198-9D3C-F410F9B9714D.jpeg
    145.3 KB · Views: 23
  • 08EF1A2B-B4C4-483A-8EC8-CEADA1E3A6C8.jpeg
    08EF1A2B-B4C4-483A-8EC8-CEADA1E3A6C8.jpeg
    131.2 KB · Views: 29
We’re all just trying to think of what may be wrong. We could all be entirely wrong! Lol! We just want to see her get better. is she still gaping?
no but i turned the heat lamp off & after climbing the top of the cage a little she is currently doing this

& i appreciate everyone’s help & concern 💚
 

Attachments

  • F5DC7772-941E-4A32-877B-876352EA9B77.jpeg
    F5DC7772-941E-4A32-877B-876352EA9B77.jpeg
    135.7 KB · Views: 27
  • 42A8201E-2090-4891-A242-91BD8C1B22C5.jpeg
    42A8201E-2090-4891-A242-91BD8C1B22C5.jpeg
    146.8 KB · Views: 26

Sonny13

Chameleon Enthusiast
Cage Type - it was a screen cage from a starter kit
What are the dimensions?

Lighting - zoomed blue light for heat. 26 watt THRIVE brand UVB bulb
It could be the blue light. Chameleons are really sensitive to light, especially colored light. They love bright white, however colored light can disrupt them. Maybe, just maybe, replace the blue heat light for a normal incandescent light bulb and that could solve the eye closing problem.
 

Flick boy

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi @ houdini's Mom . I'm no expert and you have been given lots of advice today . But here's my take . Pen to paper, priortise. No. 1 correct uvb no.2 temps looking good no.3 humidity looking good. No.4 supplements. No.5 feeders variety is best less worms more staple feeders I have already added this ( not sure why you girl is throwing up but yes feed all in the am ) get a fecal done . No.6 proper gutload already added either in this thread or your other ones . Uvb 12 on 12 off . Let me know how things are going. Get a chart up and running 😉
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi, there! Just some more feedback and questions:
  • Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, female. i’m unsure of age but shes been in my care for about a month. has recently had his second shed.
  • Handling - 2-3 times a week. she rushes to come out when he sees me preparing her food
  • Feeding - calcium w/o D3 & retivitamin with D3 twice a week (vet instructed) dusted meal worms & crickets 6 in the morning. 6 in the evening. What do you gutload with? Instead of using up the rest of the mealworms right now, I'd put them in the fridge and save them for added variety and treats in the future. How much experience does your vet have with chameleons?
  • Supplements - zoomed calcium w/o d3 & reptivitamins with d3, vitamin A, & calcium
  • Watering - THRIVE automatic mister What times of day and how long is each misting session?
  • Fecal Description - herpoop is dark brown & oval shaped. the white part has always been white & about a cm(+/-) long
  • History - Juvenile veiled chameleon sold from petsmart I'd definitely get a fecal tested. Has she ever had x-rays done?

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - it was a screen cage from a starter kit. i have the back & sides wrapped in plastic to help with humidity (idk if it has been but 🤷🏽‍♀️) Could you post a pic of her entire cage, please? I've attached a helpful lay bin chart below.
  • Lighting - zoomed blue light for heat. 26 watt THRIVE brand UVB bulb. Like others have said, the lights need to be adjusted ASAP. You can also take her outside for natural UV, too, just be careful of using D3 depending on how long she's outside.
  • Temperature - 75-80s during the day. mid/low 70s at night. How is her basking temp measured? Getting down to at least 67*F will be better at night.
  • Humidity - humidity meter stays between 40-50% That's the higher end of a veiled's range (30-50% during the day), so I'd lower it if you can. What's her nighttime humidity, and how do you measure your humidity levels?
  • Plants - pothos & umbrella tree. The fake plants need to be taken out
  • Placement - its near my window right BEFORE the ac draft. it’s on a 3 or 4 feet table
  • Location - about 30 mins south of Atlanta, Georgia
Here's some helpful links and images. Read through the entirety of the first link, everything on that website:
 

Attachments

  • chameleon-food.jpg
    chameleon-food.jpg
    192.3 KB · Views: 16
  • chameleon-gutload 2.jpg
    chameleon-gutload 2.jpg
    188 KB · Views: 16
  • Cham. Academy Plant List.jpeg
    Cham. Academy Plant List.jpeg
    254.8 KB · Views: 16
  • Lay Bin Chart.jpeg
    Lay Bin Chart.jpeg
    145.7 KB · Views: 16

MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi. As has been mentioned already, your supplement schedule is off. Your little lady has been getting too much multivitamin and D3. If you are giving additional vitamin A, that too is a problem.
You should be using a phosphorus free calcium with NO D3 at every feeding except one every other week. That one feeding you’ll use your Reptivite WITH D3. That is all you need. Vitamins D and A are fat soluble and can build up in your chameleon and reach toxic levels. Reptivite has preformed vitamin A so you don’t need to add any additional. This is the schedule I use for all of my chameleons and all are healthy.
I have questions about your uvb too. To my knowledge, Thrive brand and all others that can be obtained at the chain pet stores are not the T5 that is needed. ReptiSun and Arcadia are the main brands for reptile T5 fixtures and either 5.0 or 6% uvb bulbs. This is a very good light that comes with bulb and is similarly priced as ReptiSun. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html ReptiSun bulbs are suggested to be changed every 6 months though and the Arcadia are good for a year.
 
Top Bottom