PLEASE HELP IDK WHATS WRONG WITH HIM

auheen

New Member
I'd also try to find an experienced chameleon vet near you, even if it's a one or two hour drive. Having a reputable chameleon vet is literally a life saver and worth its weight in gold! Where do you live? We can try to help you find one!
I live in western north carolina, but I am also able to travel near central tennessee
 

auheen

New Member
Is he drinking?
Yes
Okay, so you'll want to get a calcium without D3 then, Zoo Med ReptiCalcium Without D3 is a good one and is sold at most pet stores. The Fluker's calcium with D3 has way too much D3 in it, so to save money and simplify life, just get a multivitamin with D3 in it instead of a calcium with D3 and a multivitamin without. Zoo Med Reptivite With D3 is perfect and is also sold at most pet stores! So you'll use the calcium without D3 at every feeding, except for once every two weeks, wheel you'll use the Reptivite With D3. Because of the quantity of D3 in the Fluker's, I'd get bloodwork done from a cham vet to see if he has too much D3 in his system. @kinyonga should OP just use calcium without D3 and a multivitamin without D3 because of this (@auheen you'd buy and use Zoo Med Reptivite WITHOUT D3 instead of the Reptivite with D3)?

If it's not too stressful, taking him outside for natural sunlight will help until you get a T5 UVB bulb and fixture (you can look on FB Marketplace for used fixtures so you only have to purchase the bulb at full price, look for promo codes at online reptile stores from YouTube Channels, and/or see if there is a reptile convention near your soon where you can get a deal on them), which is a priority. If he's outside long enough, he won't need any D3 supplementation either
Okay thank you! I will try and get those supplements from the pet store today, and I will look into FB marketplace.
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Male Veiled Chameleon. About 1.5-2 years old. I’ve had him since March of 2021 (So I’ve had him for a little over a year).
  • Handling - Not too much. Maybe once a month or when needed.
  • Feeding - I feed him large crickets and giant mealworms. About 5 mealworms and 5 crickets (sometimes more) every other day. Im not sure how to gut-load meal worms but I do put some of the calcium powder and multivitamin’s in the cup of meal worms when I first get them. I gut-load the crickets using Flunkers High-Calcium cricket diet. I also give the crickets Flunkers Cricket Quencher Calcium Fortified.
  • Supplements - Flunkers Repta Calcium with Vitamin D3 & Phosphorus Free powder and Exp Terra Multiviamin powder. I don’t really have a schedule for them, I just sprinkle them on my feeders every feeding.
  • Watering - I use a spray bottle to spray onto surfaces where it’ll drop down for him. I also have the Little Dripped by Zoo Med but I don’t use it much. I spray water into his cage about 3-5 times a day until it seems like he’s had enough. I do see him drinking.
  • Fecal Description - From what I can find in his cage, his urine dropping are slightly yellow and he has dark brown poop.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. We do believe he has MBD and had broken limbs when I first got him. His limbs seem to be healed now. His previous owner neglected using any type of UVB or supplements, nor did they use a correct heat bulb. I am honestly surprised he has lived this long knowing everything he had been through.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Full Screen cage. Height is 29 inches, Width and Length are both 16 inches.
  • Lighting - His heat bulb says it’s an Aqua Culture 120V 60W. His UVB is a Thrive 15W 18” Ampoule UVB bulb. His lights turn on at 9:30am and turn off at 9:30pm (I have a timer plug that his lights are plugged into).
  • Temperature - The area he basks in (underneath the heat bulb) is 90°. I’m not sure about the temperature on the rest of his cage. I do plan to lower his branch where his heat bulb is because it’s too close. I measure them with a digital thermometer that measures humidity and temp (picture attached), it’s by ZooMed.
  • Humidity - The humidity is about 42 percent. I don’t do much for the humidity. I use the same ZooMed digital thermometer to measure humidity.
  • Plants - I have 2 live plants in his enclosure (a snake plant and a golden pothos). I plan on putting more smaller golden pothos. I also have a fake ivy plant thing.
  • Placement - My cage is located in a corner of my room farther from my door (for less traffic), it also happens to be next to my bed. There is a heater vent on the opposite wall and occasionally a fan on the other side of my bed usually during nights. From the top of the cage to the floor is about 54 inches.
  • Location - I am located in Western North Carolina currently, moving to central Tennessee in a couple months.

Current Problem - Sometimes when he shoots his tongue out for food he leaves the entire thing out for a little bit (around 30 seconds).
Give me a few to go through everything. Then you can copy paste all my feedback into a word doc so you have it as a reference. Supplements and UVB need immediate corrections. He is being overdosed on D3.
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
@auheen See my feedback in bold and let me know what questions you have...


Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Male Veiled Chameleon. About 1.5-2 years old. I’ve had him since March of 2021 (So I’ve had him for a little over a year).
  • Handling - Not too much. Maybe once a month or when needed.
  • Feeding - I feed him large crickets and giant mealworms. About 5 mealworms and 5 crickets (sometimes more) every other day. Im not sure how to gut-load meal worms but I do put some of the calcium powder and multivitamin’s in the cup of meal worms when I first get them. I gut-load the crickets using Flunkers High-Calcium cricket diet. I also give the crickets Flunkers Cricket Quencher Calcium Fortified. I am attaching a gutloading sheet for you along with a feeder sheet. Drop the mealworms. Do not add any supplements to anything unless it is right before feeding them to the chameleon. You can use fresh veg or something like repashy bug burger mixed according to the directions for gutload. At his age he should be getting no more than 3 feeders every other day.
  • Supplements - Flunkers Repta Calcium with Vitamin D3 & Phosphorus Free powder and Exp Terra Multiviamin powder. I don’t really have a schedule for them, I just sprinkle them on my feeders every feeding. Drop both of these. He is being overdosed on D3. You need a plain calcium powder and a multivitamin. I suggest Repashy Supercal NoD for your plain phosphorus free supplement. This is given at all feedings unless it is a multivitamin day. Then you want Repashy Calcium Plus LoD version. This would be given only 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. Feeders should be lightly dusted in the supplement. See images below for the two I recommend.
Screen Shot 2022-06-27 at 11.30.59 AM.png Screen Shot 2022-06-27 at 11.30.47 AM.png
  • Watering - I use a spray bottle to spray onto surfaces where it’ll drop down for him. I also have the Little Dripped by Zoo Med but I don’t use it much. I spray water into his cage about 3-5 times a day until it seems like he’s had enough. I do see him drinking. Adding the dripper can be beneficial if you are hand misting. Most chams will not drink in front of someone unless they are desperate for water.
  • Fecal Description - From what I can find in his cage, his urine dropping are slightly yellow and he has dark brown poop.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. We do believe he has MBD and had broken limbs when I first got him. His limbs seem to be healed now. His previous owner neglected using any type of UVB or supplements, nor did they use a correct heat bulb. I am honestly surprised he has lived this long knowing everything he had been through.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Full Screen cage. Height is 29 inches, Width and Length are both 16 inches. You need to upgrade this to a 2x2x4ft enclosure. He is in a baby cage right now and it just is not enough room for him to regulate temps or move around.
  • Lighting - His heat bulb says it’s an Aqua Culture 120V 60W. His UVB is a Thrive 15W 18” Ampoule UVB bulb. His lights turn on at 9:30am and turn off at 9:30pm (I have a timer plug that his lights are plugged into). Temp is way too hot and he can get way too close. This is a thermal burn risk waiting to happen. Need to raise the heat fixture up off the cage. You need to go buy a reptisun T8 10.0 bulb for your fixture. This will put out the UVB he needs down to the 6-7 inch mark. With how high his basking area is it will work. And provide the UVB he needs. This is a cheaper fix then replacing the entire fixture to a T5HO fixture with a 5.0 bulb. Do let us know if you ever replace to a T5HO though. There are different distances to the branch needed for this fixture type and bulb.
  • Temperature - The area he basks in (underneath the heat bulb) is 90°. I’m not sure about the temperature on the rest of his cage. I do plan to lower his branch where his heat bulb is because it’s too close. I measure them with a digital thermometer that measures humidity and temp (picture attached), it’s by ZooMed. Too hot needs to be 80-85 max. Raise the fixture to achieve this or lower it.
  • Humidity - The humidity is about 42 percent. I don’t do much for the humidity. I use the same ZooMed digital thermometer to measure humidity.
  • Plants - I have 2 live plants in his enclosure (a snake plant and a golden pothos). I plan on putting more smaller golden pothos. I also have a fake ivy plant thing. Remove all fake plants. you can hook them to the outside of the cage. But they are a risk for him eating them inside. See plant image below. Choose all Veiled tested plants for his enclosure. These are plants that have been tested and have not caused harm to a veiled eating them.
  • Placement - My cage is located in a corner of my room farther from my door (for less traffic), it also happens to be next to my bed. There is a heater vent on the opposite wall and occasionally a fan on the other side of my bed usually during nights. From the top of the cage to the floor is about 54 inches.
  • Location - I am located in Western North Carolina currently, moving to central Tennessee in a couple months.

Current Problem - Sometimes when he shoots his tongue out for food he leaves the entire thing out for a little bit (around 30 seconds).
He is overdosed on D3 and is not getting Vitamin A. Both of these effect targeting along with other things. Make the supplement changes. It could take 4-6 weeks for his tissues to clear the D3.

chameleon-gutload.jpg
chameleon-food(1).jpg
Screen Shot 2022-06-27 at 11.41.38 AM.png
 

auheen

New Member
@auheen See my feedback in bold and let me know what questions you have...


Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Male Veiled Chameleon. About 1.5-2 years old. I’ve had him since March of 2021 (So I’ve had him for a little over a year).
  • Handling - Not too much. Maybe once a month or when needed.
  • Feeding - I feed him large crickets and giant mealworms. About 5 mealworms and 5 crickets (sometimes more) every other day. Im not sure how to gut-load meal worms but I do put some of the calcium powder and multivitamin’s in the cup of meal worms when I first get them. I gut-load the crickets using Flunkers High-Calcium cricket diet. I also give the crickets Flunkers Cricket Quencher Calcium Fortified. I am attaching a gutloading sheet for you along with a feeder sheet. Drop the mealworms. Do not add any supplements to anything unless it is right before feeding them to the chameleon. You can use fresh veg or something like repashy bug burger mixed according to the directions for gutload. At his age he should be getting no more than 3 feeders every other day.
  • Supplements - Flunkers Repta Calcium with Vitamin D3 & Phosphorus Free powder and Exp Terra Multiviamin powder. I don’t really have a schedule for them, I just sprinkle them on my feeders every feeding. Drop both of these. He is being overdosed on D3. You need a plain calcium powder and a multivitamin. I suggest Repashy Supercal NoD for your plain phosphorus free supplement. This is given at all feedings unless it is a multivitamin day. Then you want Repashy Calcium Plus LoD version. This would be given only 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. Feeders should be lightly dusted in the supplement. See images below for the two I recommend.
View attachment 326041View attachment 326042
  • Watering - I use a spray bottle to spray onto surfaces where it’ll drop down for him. I also have the Little Dripped by Zoo Med but I don’t use it much. I spray water into his cage about 3-5 times a day until it seems like he’s had enough. I do see him drinking. Adding the dripper can be beneficial if you are hand misting. Most chams will not drink in front of someone unless they are desperate for water.
  • Fecal Description - From what I can find in his cage, his urine dropping are slightly yellow and he has dark brown poop.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. We do believe he has MBD and had broken limbs when I first got him. His limbs seem to be healed now. His previous owner neglected using any type of UVB or supplements, nor did they use a correct heat bulb. I am honestly surprised he has lived this long knowing everything he had been through.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Full Screen cage. Height is 29 inches, Width and Length are both 16 inches. You need to upgrade this to a 2x2x4ft enclosure. He is in a baby cage right now and it just is not enough room for him to regulate temps or move around.
  • Lighting - His heat bulb says it’s an Aqua Culture 120V 60W. His UVB is a Thrive 15W 18” Ampoule UVB bulb. His lights turn on at 9:30am and turn off at 9:30pm (I have a timer plug that his lights are plugged into). Temp is way too hot and he can get way too close. This is a thermal burn risk waiting to happen. Need to raise the heat fixture up off the cage. You need to go buy a reptisun T8 10.0 bulb for your fixture. This will put out the UVB he needs down to the 6-7 inch mark. With how high his basking area is it will work. And provide the UVB he needs. This is a cheaper fix then replacing the entire fixture to a T5HO fixture with a 5.0 bulb. Do let us know if you ever replace to a T5HO though. There are different distances to the branch needed for this fixture type and bulb.
  • Temperature - The area he basks in (underneath the heat bulb) is 90°. I’m not sure about the temperature on the rest of his cage. I do plan to lower his branch where his heat bulb is because it’s too close. I measure them with a digital thermometer that measures humidity and temp (picture attached), it’s by ZooMed. Too hot needs to be 80-85 max. Raise the fixture to achieve this or lower it.
  • Humidity - The humidity is about 42 percent. I don’t do much for the humidity. I use the same ZooMed digital thermometer to measure humidity.
  • Plants - I have 2 live plants in his enclosure (a snake plant and a golden pothos). I plan on putting more smaller golden pothos. I also have a fake ivy plant thing. Remove all fake plants. you can hook them to the outside of the cage. But they are a risk for him eating them inside. See plant image below. Choose all Veiled tested plants for his enclosure. These are plants that have been tested and have not caused harm to a veiled eating them.
  • Placement - My cage is located in a corner of my room farther from my door (for less traffic), it also happens to be next to my bed. There is a heater vent on the opposite wall and occasionally a fan on the other side of my bed usually during nights. From the top of the cage to the floor is about 54 inches.
  • Location - I am located in Western North Carolina currently, moving to central Tennessee in a couple months.

Current Problem - Sometimes when he shoots his tongue out for food he leaves the entire thing out for a little bit (around 30 seconds).
He is overdosed on D3 and is not getting Vitamin A. Both of these effect targeting along with other things. Make the supplement changes. It could take 4-6 weeks for his tissues to clear the D3.

View attachment 326043View attachment 326044View attachment 326045
I will be going to the store today to try and find some of these things for him and after I move I will try to buy him a bigger cage. This was really helpful and I appreciate it!
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
I will be going to the store today to try and find some of these things for him and after I move I will try to buy him a bigger cage. This was really helpful and I appreciate it!
If you have questions let me know. If they do not have the supplements I recommended then the most important one you have to have is a phosphorus free calcium without D3. This is the same as the Supercal NoD that I recommended. Then you want a multivitamin but they are not all created equally. If they do not carry the Repashy calcium plus LoD the other common one carried is Reptivite with D3.
 

auheen

New Member
If you have questions let me know. If they do not have the supplements I recommended then the most important one you have to have is a phosphorus free calcium without D3. This is the same as the Supercal NoD that I recommended. Then you want a multivitamin but they are not all created equally. If they do not carry the Repashy calcium plus LoD the other common one carried is Reptivite with D3.
I bought him another real plant (money tree), along with also a T5 UVB because they didn’t have T8. I couldn’t find any supplements without D3, so I’ll just order those online. if you have any suggestions for websites where I can get these supplements, please let me know!
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
I bought him another real plant (money tree), along with also a T5 UVB because they didn’t have T8. I couldn’t find any supplements without D3, so I’ll just order those online. if you have any suggestions for websites where I can get these supplements, please let me know!
So I get mine off amazon lol. Faster delivery then most reptile sites. Get the smallest bottle you can because you want to replace these yearly with new bottles and you will not go through an entire bottle in a year.
Get the 3 oz bottle. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DLJRMV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get the 6 oz bottle https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3BKCGA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which T5 UVB bulb strength did you get?
 

auheen

New Member
So I get mine off amazon lol. Faster delivery then most reptile sites. Get the smallest bottle you can because you want to replace these yearly with new bottles and you will not go through an entire bottle in a year.
Get the 3 oz bottle. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DLJRMV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get the 6 oz bottle https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3BKCGA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which T5 UVB bulb strength did you get?
The T5 was a kit that came with a bulb and the bulb said it was 12%. I also bought a new multivitamin and calcium off amazon last night (Zoo Med ReptiCalcium Without D3 and Zoo Med Reptivite With D3).
 

auheen

New Member
The T5 was a kit that came with a bulb and the bulb said it was 12%. I also bought a new multivitamin and calcium off amazon last night (Zoo Med ReptiCalcium Without D3 and Zoo Med Reptivite With D3).
I decided to buy those two supplements because they would get here the fastest and I’ve heard they’re okay to use.
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
The T5 was a kit that came with a bulb and the bulb said it was 12%. I also bought a new multivitamin and calcium off amazon last night (Zoo Med ReptiCalcium Without D3 and Zoo Med Reptivite With D3).
Those two are fine as well.

With the 12% bulb you want the distance between the bottom of the fixture and the branch to be 11-12 inches. This may mean raising the fixture up off the cage. You know those wire shelves you can use in a pantry cabinet? People will use these to get them higher. But you have to double check the distance so that it is 11-12 inches only.
 

auheen

New Member
Those two are fine as well.

With the 12% bulb you want the distance between the bottom of the fixture and the branch to be 11-12 inches. This may mean raising the fixture up off the cage. You know those wire shelves you can use in a pantry cabinet? People will use these to get them higher. But you have to double check the distance so that it is 11-12 inches only.
Okay I’ll buy something to raise it higher. Thanks!
 
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