Not basking/staying on ground

[Ckrewson]

Hey I’m new to Chameleon ownership and read somewhere that if my little guy spends all his time down on the ground level there may be something wrong with him. I have only had him a week and the last two days he sits and hides in one corner of his (temporary) cage. Before that he was basking all day and going to that corner to sleep after turning out his lights. There is more vegetation on that side so I’m hoping maybe he is hiding and doesn’t feel he needs to back currently but I’m unsure. When I feed him he gets active and goes hunting but shortly afterwards he returns to that corner. The only change I’ve made in his environment is reducing his wattage on his basking light from 75 to 60 due to me feeling like it was getting too warm. I do have a fear of him not drinking from the leaves also. I must his vegetation 3-4 times a day but try not to watch him because I want him to drink rather than hide from me. I wasn’t given an age from the seller so I’m unsure exactly but here is a pic for reference.

 

[Gingero]

As long as their urates as a white/cream color then you know they are staying hydrated. It would be great if you could fill out this questions in as much detail so that we can give you correct recommendations: https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/how-to-ask-for-help.66/

In the meantime here is a Top 5 videos for new keepers playlist that would be worth watching:

 

[Ckrewson]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Male. Veiled Chameleon, unsure on age (maybe a month). Had him for almost a week.
• Handling - Every other day for about 5-10 minutes trying to hand feed.
• Feeding - 6 mustard green gut loaded crickets daily 7:30 AM and then 3 after work at 5:30 PM
• Supplements - Calcium without d3 and a multivitamin (unsure of brand)
• Watering - Only heavy misting while building his forever cage which will have drip system. Misting 3-5 times daily until lights are out.
• Fecal Description - One poop was brown and white on end.
• History - No history known. Was at a pet store out of town so not sure of reputation but I did feel like seller wasn’t well educated after reading up on some things I was sold and told.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Currenlty small 10 gallon why 24x24x48 is being built. Screen top
• Lighting - 60 watt heat bulb and 5.0 uvb in a double domed (tropical) fixture sitting about 12 inches off basking vine.
• Temperature - I have no thermostat in temp housing. Using back of hand to determine if bulb was to hot or not.
• Humidity - Unsure only regular misting.
• Plants - Non-live plants
• Placement - Stand in bedroom, high traffic area.
• Location - Southern Oregon Coast

 

[Ckrewson]

I don’t have any pictures of his enclosure entirely but here is a pic of him I took that might help see what I have him in currently. I have the repticarpet on the base.

 

[kinyonga]

If the cage is too hot near the top that could be why your chameleon is styling lower in the cage. You really do need to know the temperature IMHO.

 

[Ckrewson]

I will grab the laser thermometer from work then and check. I assumed beings I lessened the wattage of the bulb it would be less heat but maybe because of the fixture change in doing so that has something to do with it. 82-85 degrees is what I’m shooting for basking correct?

 

[kinyonga]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Male. Veiled Chameleon, unsure on age (maybe a month). Had him for almost a week.
• Handling - Every other day for about 5-10 minutes trying to hand feed.
• Feeding - 6 mustard green gut loaded crickets daily 7:30 AM and then 3 after work at 5:30 PM At this age you can feed him as much as he will eat in a couple of minutes at each feeding.
• Supplements - Calcium without d3 and a multivitamin (unsure of brand) This is important. It's recommended that you dusted the insects at all. Feedings but 4 a month with a phos free calcium powder lightly and at 2 of the 4 remaining times 2 weeks apart dust lightly with a phos free calcium/D3 powder lightly and the remaining 2 times two weeks apart lightly with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. This leaves it up to you to decide whether the chameleon needs some prEformed vitamin A or not. PrEformed vitamin A can build up in the system and lead to health issues. PrOformed sources won't. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it at will.
• Watering - Only heavy misting while building his forever cage which will have drip system. Misting 3-5 times daily until lights are out.
• Fecal Description - One poop was brown and white on end.
• History - No history known. Was at a pet store out of town so not sure of reputation but I did feel like seller wasn’t well educated after reading up on some things I was sold and told.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Currenlty small 10 gallon why 24x24x48 is being built. Screen top
• Lighting - 60 watt heat bulb and 5.0 uvb in a double domed (tropical) fixture sitting about 12 inches off basking vine. most often recommended UVB light is the reptisun 5.0 long linear tube light.
• Temperature - I have no thermostat in temp housing. Using back of hand to determine if bulb was to hot or not. it's important to know the temperatures.
• Humidity - Unsure only regular misting.
• Plants - Non-live plants I recommend using real plants with veiled chameleons because the munch in vegetation and you don't want them munching on fake plants.
• Placement - Stand in bedroom, high traffic area.
• Location - Southern Oregon Coast

 

[Ckrewson]

I’m not sure I understood what you are saying in regards to supplements as far as how often sorry. I really need it dumped down for me lol. In regards to the other things I am ordering the tube light as we speak because of the above video which all I had was the small light she says not to use. That is one of many things I am trying to resolve before moving him to the big cage. The forever cage will have three thermometers to get a good idea of heat range from top to bottom. As far as real plants. I would love to use real plants but I have concerns and fears on making sure I get what’s going to be good for him. Not meaning the vegetation itself but something that doesn’t have chemical concerns or harmful soils. I just don’t know in my area where to obtain it and know I’m not harming him. Which is one of many other questions I have in building him the perfect home. I just didn’t want to be the new guy bombarding everyone with my questions.

 

[kinyonga]

We're here to answer questions...so go ahead and ask...don't worry about how many you have!

For the supplements.....every feeding you do in a week except for one, dust the insects lightly with the calcium powder just before feeding them to the chameleon. On the one feeding this week, when you don't use the calcium, use the calcium/D3 and again on the third week of the month, on the one day that you don't use the calcium.
On the one day in the second and fourth week in the month when you don't use the calcium, use the vitamin powder. Don't know if that's clearer or not.

 

[Ckrewson]

Ok so calcium NO D3=6 days a week
7th day use calcium WITH D3=1rst and 3rd
7th day use vitamins= 2nd and 4th

 

[Ckrewson]

Ok so calcium NO D3=6 days a week
7th day use calcium WITH D3=1rst and 3rd week
7th day use vitamins= 2nd and 4th

 

[Ckrewson]

Here are some other questions I have come up with quickly in prepping his new home...



How do I use potted plants without the worry of him getting into the soil or it being bad for him?

What type of feeder to use and how do I attach it to a screen enclosure outside of dragon ledges?

Can I use raw wood materials inside his cage?

Is a fogger or mister better or are they the same thing?

Fake Vines/oak sticks/bamboo/drift wood what’s best to keep for him to climb/bask on and what are some methods to attaching everything outside of dragon ledges?

Cleaning real vegetation? Just removing plants from enclosure and spraying with water? How often?

Using the spray foam to create texture and hide connections of hardware. How can I make it look realistic. Is there chemical free paint that would work for him?

 

[Ckrewson]

If the cage is too hot near the top that could be why your chameleon is styling lower in the cage. You really do need to know the temperature IMHO.

For the time being I switch back to his old light and fixture to see if that changes how he feels about hiding out in the corner.

 

[kinyonga]

Ok so calcium NO D3=6 days a week
7th day use calcium WITH D3=1rst and 3rd
7th day use vitamins= 2nd and 4th

Yes...but that only works when you're feeding them every day. Eventually you will cut them down to every other day or twice a week....so then you will do the calcium/D3 once every second week and vitamins once every second week and calcium at the rest of the feedings.

 

[kinyonga]

Here are some other questions I have come up with quickly in prepping his new home...

You asked..."How do I use potted plants without the worry of him getting into the soil or it being bad for him?"... Mot people put stones on top of the soil that are definitely too big for the chameleon to ingest.

You asked..."What type of feeder to use and how do I attach it to a screen enclosure outside of dragon ledges?"...I've always free ranged the insects in the cages....so I don't have an answer to this. Hopefully someone else will answer it. @Beman ?

You asked..."Can I use raw wood materials inside his cage?"...I wouldn't use sappy woods.

You asked..."Is a fogger or mister better or are they the same thing?"...a mister is better for watering and the fogger is what most people use at night. I always suggest a dripper for providing water too.

You asked..."Fake Vines/oak sticks/bamboo/drift wood what’s best to keep for him to climb/bask on and what are some methods to attaching everything outside of dragon ledges?"...not a fan of fake vines. Bamboo can be slippery but I think some people use it. I use maple branches mostly. You can use tie wraps or a lot of other things to attach them...just make sure there are no sharp ends or edges. I wouldn't use most glues or tapes for sure though.

You asked..."Cleaning real vegetation? Just removing plants from enclosure and spraying with water? How often?"... When you first get the plants you can just wash them off with water ...both sides of the leaves. I usually run some water through the soil too. After they've been in the cage and you're cleaning the cage, you can wipe them off if the leaves are big or spray them. I've never used soaps or chemicals on any of my plants. Hopefully others will chime in here too.

You asked..."Using the spray foam to create texture and hide connections of hardware. How can I make it look realistic. Is there chemical free paint that would work for him?"... I've never used foam so gain I have to hope someone else chimes in.

 

[MissSkittles]

You asked..."Using the spray foam to create texture and hide connections of hardware. How can I make it look realistic. Is there chemical free paint that would work for him?"... I've never used foam so gain I have to hope someone else chimes in.

Great Stuff is, well, great stuff! Once it dries, you can carve it however you like. Some use silicone to seal it and attach coco coir to...I used Flex Seal. Since I did the better portions of screened enclosure, I used plastic light diffuser ‘egg crate’ attached to the frame to help support the weight.

 

[Beman]

I use this feeder run. It attaches directly to the screen
https://tkchameleons.com/collections/accessories/products/shooting-gallery

 

[CrisBruns]

You can use pushpins in the ends of sticks to secure from the outside or hang with clear fishing line. Our Lowe’s currently has a lot of Pothos plants which grow pretty quickly and are non toxic. There are run feeder cups that use a magnet. Can be diy’d. I put the insects in a small clear plastic cup,dust them and then wedge it in so he can get to it but the insects can’t jump out.