Newbie help:)

Y

yojon3000

Member
okay so i got my first chameleon like right now :] (at reptile expo)
okay so hes a baby i forgot to ask how old :/
but what do i dust with i just dont want to give him too much of something
but right now i have this one
http://www.zoomed.com/Library/ProductDBImages/repticalciumwd3.jpg
do i dust with that daily? (m-f) or do i need other ones(im going to petco later)
if i do could you post a link with a pic of it?
oh and one more thing when i was holding him he rubbed his eye on my hand and i think its due to humidity? he hadnt been misted and i live in tx so its like 107
and it kinda looks like shed skin but im not sure any idea?

thanks

edit: i have a black light and i wanted to know if i can put a uvb bulb in it?
 
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
 
okay so im making him a bigger cage but i went to the pet store and all they have are dusters with d3 -_- :( but right now i have a sample of herptivite and repti calcium w/d3 how long can i last with that till i order some duster from lllreptile? :mad:
should i not dust with anything for the time being?
and i still trying to figure out if i can use a uvb bulb in my blacklight fixture
so i wont have to buy a fixture for the uvb
please help D:
 
i dont know anyone who uses that product but typically people use d3 twice a month, so if youve used it a few times already then dont use that anymore

herptivite is also typically used twice a month (you can actually use the d3 and the herptivite at the same time if you want)

you should check out repashy calcium plus - ive switched from the repti cal products to it and i like it a lot better, its an all in one duster you use everyday. youll have to decide how you want to go about it but the calcium plus is working great for me and i like that ill only have to buy one bottle instead of 3 from now on... and you dont have to keep track of a dusting schedule. up to you what you go with though, if you do it right any of the more popular products will work.

if your black light fixture will fit t8 bulbs you can use it, if not youll have to get a fixture that will.
 
thanks but right now i dont have any dust for daily and theres none at the store :mad: so how long can i go without some for right now :( with undusted crickets or what do i do
 
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