Thatwizard420
Chameleon Enthusiast
Poop Full of Salmonella.... Yup I am Traumatized since that Bacteria Thread.
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Try to feed her something smaller... Without a hard exoskeleton... Like flies, throw a small waxworm in there... maybe small silkworms?So finally found a poop. It also looks like she is not digesting the superworms as coming out semi whole. She eagerly eats them. I have been hand feeding her 2 a day along with her crickets and dubia roaches (not a favorite). Perhaps these worms have been blocking her up. Is this normal? She is growing well although still a baby.
Have you taken in a fecal yet? I would go ahead and get this tested just to be sure she is good there. I have never seen personally or on the forum issues with supers coming out semi whole and undigested. I have seen this with BSFL because they do not tend to chew them since they are so small.So finally found a poop. It also looks like she is not digesting the superworms as coming out semi whole. She eagerly eats them. I have been hand feeding her 2 a day along with her crickets and dubia roaches (not a favorite). Perhaps these worms have been blocking her up. Is this normal? She is growing well although still a baby.
So waxworms I never gutloaded.. Hornworms need hornworm food (they grow FAST) and silkworms have to have silk worm chow. But if you got silkworms that have been raised on mulberry leaves then that is all they are going to want to eat. I bought some that had and they all started to die off because they refused to eat the silk worm chow.She is now pooping well after I stopped the superworms. Well hydrated urates too. Question. I have received my hornworms, silkworms and waxworms. Do I gut load these as I do roaches and crickets? Sounds like they have very restricted diets. Thanks.
That is really far for me. Hoping for someone closer but thank you.My Vet is in Livermore
Ohana Animal Hospital
https://maps.apple.com/?address=2844 Las Positas Rd, Livermore, CA 94551, United States&auid=10959968844131706690&ll=37.699388,-121.765502&lsp=9902&q=Ohana Animal Hospital&_ext=ChkKBQgEEOIBCgQIBRADCgQIBhB3CgQIChAAEiYpLPHbXPLYQkAxLy0S/VpxXsA5qsYBuRjaQkBBi9Zz+aBwXsBQBA==&t=m
This is situational no two being the same. I mist 1 minute every 3 hours. But ive dialed mine in to an exact measurement thats adjusted as needed. But I preffer Bio active vivariums set ups which changes the game.20 crickets is probably a little excessive... Also, mealworms are not a good source of nutrition for chams. You can feed her superworms but they should be more of a treat.
Also, every 2 hours is pretty excessive for misting. You should mist every 6 hours, about 2-3 minutes per misting session.
I'm not as experienced as everyone else on this site but thats just a few things i can point out. Some more experienced owners can give you some better advice.
Who do you use? I do go to Wildwood for my cockatiels and have been happy although they do say my boys are fat which annoys me.Since your in my neck of the woods don’t go to wildwood vet in Redwood City. One of the stupid vets peeled the shed off my female and now her back spines are gone
How do you guys control your misting overspray and drips from branches/screen that end up outside the enclosure?
I have just graduated Etosha to a dragon strand 24x24x48 screened cage. It's beautiful. I filled with live plants using the ledges. I have the basking branch about 8-10 inches below a 75 watt bulb and a plant spotlight bulb. . It seems to be getting only to around 82 degrees. Is that okay for 5-6 Mon old female. I don't want to encourage eggs and I know cooler is somewhat better but is that too cool. Also have the T5 linear UVB there too. How far down does the UVB penetrate. I assume that is an okay distance. Or I can move a branch up higher. Thanks.Who do you use? I do go to Wildwood for my cockatiels and have been happy although they do say my boys are fat which annoys me.