There are several aspects of this setup that may not work for her. I know you put time and effort into converting this from a beardie's enclosure, but the needs of these two species are quite different a nd you may spend a lot more time/$$ trying to make this one work. You may find that your enclosure is too small to house an arboreal cham...not enough vertical space for her to climb and thermoregulate. Chams need a gradient of heat and humidity from upper to lower areas of the cage, and solid-sided, horizontally-oriented setups don't provide this as well. There may not be enough air exchange in this tank unless you have some sort of small fan pulling stagnant warm air out of the top grill. Tank type setups can be too warm overall and don't cool down at night (chams need at least a 10 degree drop in temp at night, and no visible lighting at night). Chams use overhead heat/light to bask, not belly heat, so your undertank mat is pretty much a waste. Substrates can cause problems for chams if they pick up pieces of it and ingest it. There isn't much foliage cover for her...and most chams don't want to be out in plain view or observed. Some chams are bothered by glass...they keep trying to get out of a too-small space and paw at it endlessly. How old is your UVB strip light? If its been in use for 6 months, replace it.
What I'd suggest you do is read the "cham care basics" tab on this forum and compare your setup and climatic settings to the ones described. You may find you have a lot to adjust. Also, make sure to read the nutritional and supplemental sections as they do differ from other herps. This will help you modify your space to avoid problems as she grows.
Thank you for the response. As for the size of her cage, its about 20"d X 40"w X 24"h , I know that it could be taller, but thats what i have for now. It antique walnut and hand built and thats what she has for now. The glass also isnt as good as screen could be, but in my home she isnt going to be getting screen. I have intentions of bringing a small fan over the top of the enclosure to help circulate more air, also she doesnt stay in there 24/7 i try and have her out for a bit. Mainly i do this because I want to be able to handle her as she gets older and want her used to it. The lower temp of the cage is about 70-75 degrees and 70-80%humidity while the upper area is about 75-80degree and 60-70% humidity. She is able to get directly under the heat lamps, almost as close as she wants for a higher temperature to bask and the temp there is around 100. The mat in the bottom is not actually a heating mat, its black rubber, the black will help keep in heat and the misting that ends up on it helps keep the humidity a little higher at the bottom, also it makes cleanup simple. At night her cage temp does drop to the lower to mid 60 degree range. The floliage is going to be changed a little as i figure out what she likes, for the most part it seem like she prefers the reptirope that is in there over anything else. All my bulbs are brand new, like within the last week new; i got new bulbs after i got her because i read that if they arent getting much sunlight then they need to be getting the uva and uvb from the bulbs, therefore i bought the strip light and also another heat lamp and true blue bulbs for the other two fixtures. As for now she has been getting medium/ large crickets and a couple of mealworms a day. I dust them almost every time that she gets them. I have seen different reports of how often they need to be dusted. Any thing else you want to add, answer or concerns for me?
Josh
from Alabama