Hello, I purchased a baby senegel chameleon from a local pet store as I always wanted one. I was aware of the difficulty of the species and I am experienced in reptiles, however this being my first chameleon, I was not totally prepared. There were 3 in the cage and my friend had bought the first, he was the one who told me about them to begin with. He has had his for over 3 weeks now and is thriving. Despite having an identical setup. Literally identical. However within 2 days mine becomes dehydrated, dispite heavy heavy misting. I'm saying dehydrated due to the yellow feces with no distinction between feces and urates (sp?). Now for my setup I have a 20 gallon tall aquarium, I plan on getting a mesh within the next 2 weeks, plan on spending a good 3-400 for all the bells and whistles , foggers mister pothos vine and all. But for now it's the aquarium. The pet store clerk recommended repti bark as substrate over repti carpet, at the time my research wasn't up to par and I complied. Came back the next day after reading up about everything including bark and asked for the carpet, she said she didn't recommend it because she had a chameleon's tongue stick to it and his mouth dry out over night killing it. And she re-assured me that she recommends it for humidity and safety. So I complied. Chameleon still hadn't eaten at this point and it's been 5 days. Looks dehydrated. Dark colors. So I force fed 2 ccs of water with oral syringe. Went to bed. Day 6 woke up with a dead chameleon with his tongue sticking out stuck to a piece of bark. So apparently the water gave him enough strength to try to recover, however he kept one eye closed all the time, I feel that because of this is why he missed the insect in got the bark. So being stubborn. I went and got the third smaller senegel. Immediately I could tell a difference in activity and color, this chameleon looked good!. Day 3 has arrived now and he has not ate. He has had his eye closed for a couple of days now. He can open it, he rolls it around all the time. Sometimes it's open and he looks fine, other times it's just his right eye open looking around while He is perched. So I gave him a warm shower with the water misting off the wall like every one says. Helped for a while. He has plenty of vines and twigs to climb, I have a Humidifier running periodically though the day to replace the repti fogger I can't afford yet, works perfect. I'm mist through out the day and I even have a homemade dripper. Repti sun 5.0, 50 watt basking, ceramic heater under the table the tank is one set at 79 F. And an infared that I don't use because of the heart running all night. And now I'm using wet paper towels as substrate to help with humidy and for obvious safety reasons. Why do they keep closing there eyes one me?? I know that's not stress. He has just shed but still it's scaring me. I read that new environments causes stress and sometimes a week or so could pass with reptiles before they come around, however with all the talk about baby's shouldn't go without food more than 2-3 days tops, I sprung to action. I forced a small cricket and meal worm down with reptivite without d3 and a cc of water. I'm hoping tomorrow I see a difference. Any advice please? And if you need any more info please feel free to ask.
New Senegel chameleon advice
- Thread starter teamshesh
- Start date
Swayne8998
Established Member
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
If you fill this sheet out, this could answer some helpful questions. I think your biggest problem is the aquarium and heavy misting. I would recommend a screen/mesh enclosure with lots of foliage and climbing material. Chameleons need a lot of ventilation, and it sounds like that's what he is lacking.
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
If you fill this sheet out, this could answer some helpful questions. I think your biggest problem is the aquarium and heavy misting. I would recommend a screen/mesh enclosure with lots of foliage and climbing material. Chameleons need a lot of ventilation, and it sounds like that's what he is lacking.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - senegel, too young to sex, under 3 months has to be, 4 days in possession.
Handling - Only twice to clean and once to shower.
Feeding - small crickets, small mealworms. It hasn't eaten at all other than the 2 insects I force fed. Was told it ate the day before I got it. Would like As much as I can get him to eat preferably 10-12 a day. Hasn't happened though. I am gut loading with apples tomatoes and oranges and potatoes.
Supplements - reptivite without d3. Dusted the two I force fed.
Watering - misting 5 times a day heavily. Dripper. Humidifier making fog. Seen him drink once off glass.
Fecal Description - Orange mush. Pooped twice. Not checked for parasites.
History - not sure if wild caught. Eyes opened when I bought him. And first night
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Glass 20 gallon tall aquarium. (Temporary)
Lighting - zoom ed repti basking 50 watt, repti sun 5.0 12 hours on/off
Temperature - 80-87 F
Humidity - Nothing to measure it yet.. I know it's coming. Totally broke. Using humidifier for fog, every other hour for 30 min. Misting once dries completely, usually 5 times a day. Also have dripper running 24/7
Plants - fake foliage, real twigs, fake vine. All pet store products except for twigs. Cleaned the twigs thoroughly .
Placement - on table. 3 feet of ground. No traffic except when I leave my room. No vents no fans near it. It is by my door but only I walk past barely rarely. Maybe 4 times a day tops.
Location - southern most point of West Virginia ,USA.
Current Problem - keeping right eye closed most of the time. Seems dehydrated despite several hydration methods. Has not eaten since I got him 4 days ago other than 2 force fed insects.
If you fill this sheet out, this could answer some helpful questions. I think your biggest problem is the aquarium and heavy misting. I would recommend a screen/mesh enclosure with lots of foliage and climbing material. Chameleons need a lot of ventilation, and it sounds like that's what he is lacking.
Your Chameleon - senegel, too young to sex, under 3 months has to be, 4 days in possession.
Handling - Only twice to clean and once to shower.
Feeding - small crickets, small mealworms. It hasn't eaten at all other than the 2 insects I force fed. Was told it ate the day before I got it. Would like As much as I can get him to eat preferably 10-12 a day. Hasn't happened though. I am gut loading with apples tomatoes and oranges and potatoes.
Supplements - reptivite without d3. Dusted the two I force fed.
Watering - misting 5 times a day heavily. Dripper. Humidifier making fog. Seen him drink once off glass.
Fecal Description - Orange mush. Pooped twice. Not checked for parasites.
History - not sure if wild caught. Eyes opened when I bought him. And first night
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Glass 20 gallon tall aquarium. (Temporary)
Lighting - zoom ed repti basking 50 watt, repti sun 5.0 12 hours on/off
Temperature - 80-87 F
Humidity - Nothing to measure it yet.. I know it's coming. Totally broke. Using humidifier for fog, every other hour for 30 min. Misting once dries completely, usually 5 times a day. Also have dripper running 24/7
Plants - fake foliage, real twigs, fake vine. All pet store products except for twigs. Cleaned the twigs thoroughly .
Placement - on table. 3 feet of ground. No traffic except when I leave my room. No vents no fans near it. It is by my door but only I walk past barely rarely. Maybe 4 times a day tops.
Location - southern most point of West Virginia ,USA.
Current Problem - keeping right eye closed most of the time. Seems dehydrated despite several hydration methods. Has not eaten since I got him 4 days ago other than 2 force fed insects.
If you fill this sheet out, this could answer some helpful questions. I think your biggest problem is the aquarium and heavy misting. I would recommend a screen/mesh enclosure with lots of foliage and climbing material. Chameleons need a lot of ventilation, and it sounds like that's what he is lacking.
Swayne8998
Established Member
Thanks for filling that out.
The feeding is understandable, usually they are stressed when they first arrive and may not eat much. When he gets adjusted, he should be eating 8-10 crickets a day. It doesn't sound like the humidity is your problem, but you definitely need a mesh enclosure for ventilation, as a lack of it can cause problems. If he is indeed wild caught, he definitely needs to be checked for parasites. Where did you purchase him? If you can get some pictures of him tomorrow, especially of that eye, that would be great. In the meantime, hope this helps.
The feeding is understandable, usually they are stressed when they first arrive and may not eat much. When he gets adjusted, he should be eating 8-10 crickets a day. It doesn't sound like the humidity is your problem, but you definitely need a mesh enclosure for ventilation, as a lack of it can cause problems. If he is indeed wild caught, he definitely needs to be checked for parasites. Where did you purchase him? If you can get some pictures of him tomorrow, especially of that eye, that would be great. In the meantime, hope this helps.
Kath44
Member
Think you need to cut the tomatoes out of the gut load. Not sure they are safe.
Don't force feed him, he needs time to settle in.
He could be drinking when you're not looking also.
Are you cup feeding or free range? Maybe let some loose and leave him be to eat.
Get that screen cage ASAP too an aquarium isn't good.
The eye thing if he's just shed he could have something in it and may need it rinsing with saline solution. Or warm mistings may help him to flush it out.
Please read the care sheets which I found really helpful.
Kath.
Don't force feed him, he needs time to settle in.
He could be drinking when you're not looking also.
Are you cup feeding or free range? Maybe let some loose and leave him be to eat.
Get that screen cage ASAP too an aquarium isn't good.
The eye thing if he's just shed he could have something in it and may need it rinsing with saline solution. Or warm mistings may help him to flush it out.
Please read the care sheets which I found really helpful.
Kath.
Swayne8998
Established Member
I must have missed the tomato part. You definitely don't want to gutload with tomatoes, along with spinach and broccoli. They are toxic to chams. Like Kath said, you may need a saline or vet prescribed medicine for the eye if necessary. I would recommend a vet trip.
fluxlizard
Avid Member
LOL that's a new one on me.
Anyone have a reference for tomatoes?
I know where the misunderstanding about spinach and broccoli is coming from (they aren't toxic- they are calcium binders to an extent- if you are dusting your feeders it will more than compensate for this binding by the way, and if you aren't feeding only spinach and broccoli, but instead they are part of a variety of veggies the effect of the binding would be pretty much nothing anyway).
I use tomatoes occasionally. Fed them to my insects just last night...
fluxlizard
Avid Member
I think you probably jumped the gun on force feeding.
Chams can be timid- give him a chance to settle in unless he is anorexic looking.
Chams can be timid- give him a chance to settle in unless he is anorexic looking.
fluxlizard
Avid Member
If you can't get out to a vet today because of the snow, you can try rinsing the eye with saline solution if you have some around (contact lense wearer?). Keep in mind though- until he settles in and is eating and pooping regularly, every handling is going to be stressful to him and may result in his refusal to feed for a while...
The way I deal with that issue is to do any necessary handling at night around the time the lights go out. That way the lizard can sleep off the stress and forget about it so it has a stress-less day the next day.
The way I deal with that issue is to do any necessary handling at night around the time the lights go out. That way the lizard can sleep off the stress and forget about it so it has a stress-less day the next day.
fluxlizard
Avid Member
Yes- hornworms you are thinking of. They eat the leaves and stems, which are toxic. The red fruit is not. So, yeah- don't feed your insects the leaves and stem, but the red fruit is very beneficial to include as part of your feed.
Lots of vitamins, minerals, fiber and a variety of antioxidents including lycopenes and things that protect cells and eyes are in the red fruit. They won't hurt your lizard.
Not only have I often used the fresh fruit for feeding feeder insects (and actual lizards themselves) (like last night- no dead lizards today LOL) but I have also used dried tomato powder as part of the home-made dry food mix I feed to my insects in years past.
Last edited:
Carlton
Chameleon Enthusiast
Right. Tomato fruit is OK. Tomato leaves and stems toxic. Tomato is in the nightshade family as is potato.
Jordyt
New Member
Hey-that is horned worms from the wild, but I believe that is because they eat the plant itself which is poisonous.
kplatvoet
Member
Trace has a blog on wild caught chameleons
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs...chameleon.html that might help also-
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs...chameleon.html that might help also-
