New owner help.
- Thread starter Michael10
- Start date
jannb
Chameleon Enthusiast
Welcome to the forums. Chameleons take allot of time and allot of money to care for them properly but they are a very rewarding animal to keep. Below is my blog on what all you would need to get started.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blo...-keepers-young-veiled-panther-chameleons.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blo...-keepers-young-veiled-panther-chameleons.html
Welcome to the forum!
There is a lot to learn if you want to keep a chameleon successfully and have not kept a reptile before. I'm going to give you a lot of information and would suggest that you have your parents read it over because some of it is complicated.
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
If you get a female you will likely have to deal with egglaying...so I would suggest that you get a male.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.
If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.
Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
The cage should contain branches of an appropriate size for the chameleon to be able to grip...so as it grows you will need to supply thicker branches. Smaller cages are recommended for young chameleons too.
Here are some good sites for you and your parents to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
Sorry I can't explain this in a less complicated manner.
There is a lot to learn if you want to keep a chameleon successfully and have not kept a reptile before. I'm going to give you a lot of information and would suggest that you have your parents read it over because some of it is complicated.
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
If you get a female you will likely have to deal with egglaying...so I would suggest that you get a male.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.
If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.
Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
The cage should contain branches of an appropriate size for the chameleon to be able to grip...so as it grows you will need to supply thicker branches. Smaller cages are recommended for young chameleons too.
Here are some good sites for you and your parents to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
Sorry I can't explain this in a less complicated manner.
Itwas
New Member
One thing i think is constantly missed off the advice given to new owners is the amount of time you need to spend daily looking after it. If you are only 10 then i take it you will be at school for most of the day? who will be keeping an eye on it then? He will need regular mistings and a water supply throughout the day. Will you be going away on holidays/ vacations if so then you will need someone to look after it who knows what they are doing.
Having a chameleon has affected my social life which is something i never took into consideration. I used to be out late at weekends but now if my GF is at work then I need to go home early to turn off lights and check temps etc.
You are also going to need a decent constant amount of money for feeders, supplements, replacement bulbs, etc, so if money is an object then you may wish to choose a less expensive pet.
Having a chameleon has affected my social life which is something i never took into consideration. I used to be out late at weekends but now if my GF is at work then I need to go home early to turn off lights and check temps etc.
You are also going to need a decent constant amount of money for feeders, supplements, replacement bulbs, etc, so if money is an object then you may wish to choose a less expensive pet.
Can't you set up a misting system to avoid having to spray them thru out the day? How can you tell a male from female? I don't see where the cost of keeping them is that great, other than the initial investment and set-up, you are feeding bugs and we already have supplements for my sisters sugar gliders. 
CleaTheChameleon
New Member
A lot of good info was already said but you should read the link jannb posted for you. I am 13 so i feel you. You are a lot smarter then i was because you came to learn first and then get a chameleon as i did the exact opposite. You will learn a lot by this community and they will always help you out.
If you have any questions feel free to give me a message.
If you have any questions feel free to give me a message.
PrettyInInk87
New Member
Can't you set up a misting system to avoid having to spray them thru out the day? How can you tell a male from female? I don't see where the cost of keeping them is that great, other than the initial investment and set-up, you are feeding bugs and we already have supplements for my sisters sugar gliders.
Initially (as you stated) yes they can be VERY expensive especially if your buying everything new. The cost of a cage, vines, live plants, feeders, supplements, bulbs, light fixures, and the actual Cham, is pretty "out there". I would advise you to go onto your local Craigslist forums and do a search for Chameleon supplies and accessories.
It can save you LOTS of money to buy a used cage and used items. I was lucky enough to find a FREE small mesh cage, light fixures, and vines for my little guy but even then I still spent a little over 100 dollars not including my little guy (a friend gave me my Cham as a gift) . Not saying your parents can't afford your new pet, just something you should know before you take the plunge. Another thing, if your little guy get sick for any reason, sometimes depending on the situation, Vet. visits can be a little pricey. As far as feeders go, usually as a staple diet some people use Crickets, others Dubia Roaches, and some use Silk Worms. Make sure you read up on how to "gutload" your feeders. The more varied your Cham's diet is, the better.
What type of supplements does your sister use for her sugar gliders? They are very cute guys and I have heard they are very difficult to care for.
If your parents are willing and able to support you in your decision, by all means GO FOR IT! Make sure you read and read and read and do some more reading. This place is the best place in my opinion to get started. Good luck!If you have any other questions, do not hesitate to ask.
The supplements for the sugar gliders are : Rep-cal Phosphorus-Free Calcium with Vit. D3 and Rep-cal Herptivite with beta carotene. I have had a tarantula before so I have kept crickets and know how to gut load. Still don't know how to tell difference between male/female. Do you think I should look for a baby at the expo or adult? We will probably buy a small cage there but my mom said she will help me build one that's big when it gets warmer. Expo is in one week, I am excited.
Expo is in one week, I am excited.
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
If you are getting a veild chameleon the true tell tale sign of a male versus female is on the back of the the males back feet there are these things called tarsal spurs. They stick out a little in the middle of the back feet. With panthers, when they are young, it can be kinda tricky and there has been many a member who bought a male and it ended up being a female or vice versa. Usually the females will have more peachy colors when young and as adults. The males have the blues, reds, greens yellows when they start maturing but can look peach colored sometimes when they are younger and are often mistaken for females. The other way to tell is right at their vent(which is where they poop lol) there is a bulge if it is a male. The tail will be a little thicker too. Again sometimes very hard to tell at an early age until they start developing. Make sure that you get the THREE supplements and follow the dusting schedule the other members gave you. You need to get the calcium WITHIOUT d3 and use that at every feeding. Good luck to you and let us know whatyou purchase and post some pics! Welcome to the forums!!! Oh and I would go with a cham about 4 months old or a little younger if you can find one that age. That is a nice age to start with.
Julirs
New Member
Extremely well said!
Vet bills are expensive-and things do go wrong, and are often not fixed with one visit. If you want a good misting system, they are around $100 to start. Just getting feeders can be a pain. The petstore may be out, you have to drive there, you have to go several times a week. It definitely affects your freedom.
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
Freedom, what freedom? lol! It is worse than owning a dog sometimes!!!!
