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Aj1988

New Member
Hi my names Aj
Im from hull quebec canada and soon to be a proud owner of my very first
chameleon, I was looking for any info possible on these little guys, my husband is bringing home one on thursday and although iv done a lot of research i would like to hear from people who have experience,the chameleon that im getting is a year and a half is use to kids and being around other animals. It was a friend of a friends of my husband that had the chameleon, I would love to hear more about them thou :) here are pictures of the one we are getting :eek: totally nervous but totally excited to get it. Weve had snakes geckos and bearded dragons before but never a chameleon. I hope to learn a lot more about these cuties :)

http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa463/nibbler1988/cam.jpg
 

melric

Established Member
Welcome. She is a very pretty Veiled. I hope mine turns out like her. You're in the right place to learn things.
 

Olimpia

Biologist & Ecologist
Welcome! I'm going to link you to some blogs that will be a godsend for you :) You defintiely have a female veiled, and females require slightly different care than males. It's a little bit of reading, but it's all interesting and useful info.

http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blo...-keepers-young-veiled-panther-chameleons.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/jannb/345-egg-laying-laying-bin.html
 

laurie

Retired Moderator
Welcome to the forum. It looks like you are getting a gravid veiled. That means she will lay eggs, but if she has not been mated then they are infertile. You should look and the reference above that covers laying bins, I think you will need one before too long. I would ask the current owners she she has been bred, that way you know if the eggs are fertile.

We have a fair number of keepers in your general area so you won't be all alone.:) And we are all here for you too.
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Enthusiast
Welcome to the forum and the world of chameleons!

Here's some information that might help...

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. Temperatures needed can vary with the species and age. For hatchling panthers I keep the temperature in the warmest area in the low 80's. For older panthers I keep it in the mid to high 80's for the most part.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month lightly with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month lightly as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
 

Aj1988

New Member
thanks everyone for the information, she has not been mated shes always been alone and from what the current owner said has never laid eggs either.
 
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