New Cham - small/weak/blind? Help!

MUMMA2WLDTHINGS

New Member
Hello! I am brand new at caring for reptiles, but am a devoted and relentless researcher when it comes to rescuing & rehabbing animals.

We currently have 2 ferrets, a new red bearded dragon and a Great Dane. I have a busy household with 5 kids - one of whom wanted a beardie for Xmas.

While searching for the perfect beardie for him, I came a cross a really ill-kempt pet store. There was a tiny cage with several baby chameleons in it, right on the counter next to the register. It was the small all-screen cage, had 2 lights, a fake plant and that was it. Over the course of a month, I went in an observed the chameleons, thinking they might be a good pet for my son. I went in at different times of the day and never once saw food or any source of water in the cage. Every single leaf on the fake plant had multiple droppings on it, and the astro turf grass was covered with them, as well. All the animals in the store live in these conditions and a search for the store on Yelp shows dozens of horrible reviews for sick and dying/dead animals.

By the end of the 4 weeks, they were down to 2 chameleons. They told me they were 8 weeks old a week ago. The male was super scrawny with sunken eyes. You could see every rib and he was always very dark and lethargic. The little female was usually lighter and appeared to be plumper around the middle, but was also lethargic. Her eyes were not sunken. They would not sit under the light together and hissed at and pushed each other.

I asked to hold her every time I went in, to see what her disposition was like. I saw no signs of infection, injury, deformity, joint swelling or stress color changes, though she was handled very roughly by staff. In all the 4 weeks I had been looking at reptiles in all the local stores, these were the only 2 that had not grown nor shed.

Her personality is wonderful, and I fell in love and rescue mode with her and knew I had to save her. By the time I went in to get her after researching and setting up for her, the male wasn't visible in the cage. When I asked to compare her size to his, the staff person found him on the bottom of the cage, black and lifeless.

I got her home 5 days ago. The first thing I did was mist her cage and she drank copiously. She fell asleep with her head right in the middle of a big drop of water. She basically slept the 1st 24 hours, day and night. She fell off her branches repeatedly. Once she fell face first into the soil of her live (safe and organic soil only) potted plant. it was the only time I've seen her turn dark with stress. Then she started rubbing her eye on everything after that, so I carefully and gently flushed her little eyes thoroughly and she hasn't rubbed them since.

She didn't poop for 48 hours and she wouldn't eat. They said they were feeding her medium crickets, but she is so incredibly tiny, everyone else I have shown her pics to locally said she could only manage pinhead crickets. Nobody here has that size, so I tried to syringe feed her some Flukers Repta boost. She did amazingly well with it and ate a lot. She pooped afterward and actually climbed the screen ceiling of her cage and stayed awake for an hour or so.

That was Day 3 of owning her and today is Day 5 and she still sleeps almost 24 hours. She will keep her eyes closed even when walking and walk right off her branches or ledges. She showed tracking and stalking behaviors initially when put with crickets, but then backed off when she focused on them. I've gotten 2 week old crickets and think she should be able to eat those. In the meantime, we've made our own cricket habitat/ecosystem and are hoping to have our own pinheads soon. I read that sometimes a cricket can bite them and they can become afraid of them. I've tried everything to help her eat them. I put her in with one. I put her in with 5. I put them in her big cage. I put them near, I put them far. I hold them under a small plant, with her above them. I put her down level with them. I put them both in my hand. I've tried worms - wax and meal. Both are way too big. I've cut them into pieces. She wasn't interested at all. I've tried flightless fruit flies. She acts like they don't exist. I've held a baby cricket in tweezers and rubbed it all over her mouth. Her head turns black, like she's stressed.

But when I syringe feed her, I don't force it, she opens her mouth like a baby bird repeatedly and swallows, no stress colors or behaviors. I have to be patient and gentle and drip some on her mouth for a bit before she gets it and starts eating. I also notice that she will walk right on top of the crickets, like she doesn't see them.

I was making a video to put on youtube to ask for help or ideas when I finally realized that she is acting blind.

She has perfect looking eyes. Hydrated, fully mobile, they come together for depth perception...she just doesn't open them that often b/c she's always sleepy/lethargic.

I think I'm doing everything right. I researched for over a month before we got her. I will answer the 'help' questions about what we're doing under this. I made a video and have lots of pics, but haven't gotten the video on youtube yet. It's quite long and a bit rambly, I haven't figured out how to upload or edit it down yet. I will try to attach the pics with this post.

Thanks in advance for any info/insights or advice. I can't get her to eat or drink at all today and am beginning to panic that I don't know how long she should be on this Fluker's diet, if she's going blind due to anything I'm doing wrong, if I should stop feeding her and let her get hungry enough to hunt her own food, how long I should wait for her to do that if I think she's weak before she might get so weak I can't save her, or what! I don't see any signs that tell me to get her to the vet yet - this could all be just stress of the big move and trying to catch up from the neglect of the pet store, but I'm hoping people here will let me know if I'm missing something.

Her name is Kaiju and she's the dearest little thing, I really hope I can help her. Thanks again for helping me learn how.


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • ~Veiled, Female, approx 8 weeks. 5 Days.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
    ~Daily for syringe feeding and hydration/misting under a leaf. Sometimes to check if she's still alive.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
    ~Currently Flukers ReptaBoost 1x daily via syringe. Approx 1/3 -3/4 of a CC. She's refusing the crickets, which we are gut loading with organic grass, greens, carrot shreds, apple dusted w/ vitamin C and Fluker's Orange Cube Cricket Care.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
    ~Zoo Med Reptivite for multi vitamins twice monthly when she starts eating insects - haven't given yet because she won't eat insects. Zoo Med Repti Calcium daily or 5x weekly when she starts eating insects. Haven't given yet as she's not eating insects. (Should I be mixing into ReptiBoost?)
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
    ~Misting 2-3x daily with warm water. I have to hold her under a leaf and let it drip directly onto her mouth for her to drink, she acts like she can't see the drops. I also have a homemade dripper, but she's never found the leaf it drips onto and doesn't move around enough to do so.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
    ~No parasite testing. This is Day 5 and I've found 3 droppings. They are pale and very sticky, drying to a cream color and usually circular in shape. They will stick to her tail and I will have to wipe them off. I have started to soak her in warm water up to her shoulders for 10-15 minutes in the evening to increase her hydration, thinking the very sticky poops might be a sign of dehydration. She turns almost white in the warm water and relaxes so much, she will float right off my finger and swim back to it to hold on. She seems to really enjoy it.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
    ~See above.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
    ~All screen, 16" Wx 16" D x 30" H, filled with Pothos plants completely so there is only 12-14" of open space. All repotted in organic soil and only organic soil used in store.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
    ~Basking: Zoo Med 75w bulb UVB: Zoo Med 26w twisty/curly (should I have gotten the tube?) in a deep dual Zoo Med metal hood. No night warming bulb use. (But I do have one. Should I be using it?) 12 hours with lights, 12 hours without -(9 am on, 9 pm off).
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
    ~Upper level temps can get up to 90 if it's a bright sunny day, as the room she's in is full of massive windows, but are usually around 75-80. 12-14" lower, I have a perch for her that she doesn't fall off of. It's usually 8 - 10 degrees cooler there. I don't use a warming light at night and the temp is always right around 60- 65 degrees. I have a dual Zoo Med thermometer near the top of the cage for temp and humidity.
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
    ~ Usually 40- 50% in between mistings, 70-75% during and after mistings. I mist an entire bottle of very warm water into the cage 2-3 x daily.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
    ~Mostly Pothos right now, but I also have Ficus, Plumeria and Bougainvillea I have tried in the cage, all repotted into fresh organic soil, only grown in organic soil and rinsed well and checked for pests - and dethorned.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
    ~About 3' off floor in laundry room, next to a window. (Fragrance free laundry products only in our home - soap nuts) No vents or fans, about 6' from washer and dryer. We have a very large and cold house, so this is the warmest room in the house. Traffic is moderate to high as we have 5 kids (8-16), but she comes from a pet store where she lived on the counter next to the cash register with high traffic and frequent handling. She comes to open hands and does not appear to be stressed when looked at or handled. She has only hissed twice in our home - once at the dog and once at my husband's hairy arm when she climbed up from his hand. I have tried moving her cage over this 5 days to find the best place for her.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
    ~The PNW - OR

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
~Could she be blind?
~Does it sound like she won't survive?
~Am I doing something wrong?
 

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I can't stand the conditions I see in most pet stores. In my opinion they should only be able to sell supplies and refer people to reputable breeders for their animals. Anyway it was good of you to help this little one. First thing we need to address is the blindness. There are varying opinions on coiled UVB bulbs. Some people say they use them with no problems but I see far too many issues still that seem to be resolved by switching to the linear tube. It could be that the beam is too concentrated, or she wasn't getting any UVB in the pet store and is having a reaction to the strong coiled light. I never use them just to be sure. The other thing is a vitamin a deficiency. I notice with a few of my chams that every once in a while one of their eyes will shut. When I see this I put a very VERY small amount (a little more than the size of a pin head) of omega 3 fish oil on a feeder and give it to them. It usually stops within a day or so. Since your Cham isn't eating solids, you'd have to administer in a liquid. A trip to a qualified vet is your best option, but here is what I'd do:

-Switch to linear reptisun 5.0

-Administer a tiny amount of omega 3 fish oil in a mixture of half pedialyte (I've never used repti boost but I assume it's the same thing) half water. You may also want to administer a small amount of liquid calcium if she's not getting any from other sources. Only use the fish oil once.

-This is gross but you'll likely have to prepare a "paste" by squeezing the insides out of crickets and feeding by gently opening the chams mouth if she's not cooperating.

Her arms looks straight so I don't suspect calcium deficiency but her casque does look a little underdeveloped for her age.

Honestly if you can find a good vet that would prob be best in the situation but hopefully this helps. Good luck
 
Is it only possible to upload 4 pics at a time? that is all that is showing up for me, so I will add 4 more here - and then one more set of 4 after this. A pic is worth a thousand words!
 

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I can't stand the conditions I see in most pet stores. In my opinion they should only be able to sell supplies and refer people to reputable breeders for their animals. Anyway it was good of you to help this little one. First thing we need to address is the blindness. There are varying opinions on coiled UVB bulbs. Some people say they use them with no problems but I see far too many issues still that seem to be resolved by switching to the linear tube. It could be that the beam is too concentrated, or she wasn't getting any UVB in the pet store and is having a reaction to the strong coiled light. I never use them just to be sure. The other thing is a vitamin a deficiency. I notice with a few of my chams that every once in a while one of their eyes will shut. When I see this I put a very VERY small amount (a little more than the size of a pin head) of omega 3 fish oil on a feeder and give it to them. It usually stops within a day or so. Since your Cham isn't eating solids, you'd have to administer in a liquid. A trip to a qualified vet is your best option, but here is what I'd do:

-Switch to linear reptisun 5.0

-Administer a tiny amount of omega 3 fish oil in a mixture of half pedialyte (I've never used repti boost but I assume it's the same thing) half water. You may also want to administer a small amount of liquid calcium if she's not getting any from other sources. Only use the fish oil once.

-This is gross but you'll likely have to prepare a "paste" by squeezing the insides out of crickets and feeding by gently opening the chams mouth if she's not cooperating.

Her arms looks straight so I don't suspect calcium deficiency but her casque does look a little underdeveloped for her age.

Honestly if you can find a good vet that would prob be best in the situation but hopefully this helps. Good luck


Thank you, you're right! I forgot to mention that: sometimes she doesn't even look like a veiled because she barely has a casque at all.
 
Hoo boy, where do I start! lol. Bear with me here...

I've tried everything to help her eat them. I put her in with one. I put her in with 5. I put them in her big cage. I put them near, I put them far. I hold them under a small plant, with her above them. I put her down level with them. I put them both in my hand. I've tried worms - wax and meal. Both are way too big. I've cut them into pieces. She wasn't interested at all. I've tried flightless fruit flies. She acts like they don't exist. I've held a baby cricket in tweezers and rubbed it all over her mouth. Her head turns black, like she's stressed.

That is because she is stressed. You have only had her for 5 days- chams can take 2 weeks or more to get used to a new feeding regimen, let alone a new home, enclosure, caretaker, etc, and it's worse if they are unwell. Trying something one or twice or three times is not enough for these guys. They thrive on routine and predictability. Just in case she can actually see: I would put 10x 2-week crickets, dusted with calcium (no D3), in a container large enough that they cannot jump out, but small enough that her tongue will reach the bottom. Hang it in her cage about half way up. Then leave it alone. If it's the right size, the crickets won't be able to get out to bite her, but they will be contained enough to make hunting easier for her. Make sure the container is not clear- you don't want her trying to hunt through the side of the container and hurting her tongue. Check the container daily to see if any of the crickets are missing (this is why I'd count them).

I was making a video to put on youtube to ask for help or ideas when I finally realized that she is acting blind. She has perfect looking eyes. Hydrated, fully mobile, they come together for depth perception...she just doesn't open them that often b/c she's always sleepy/lethargic.

Your cham does sound unwell: sleeping through the day and lack of appetite are good indicators that something is wrong for sure. If her eyes are not "gunked over", swollen, sunken. irritated, seeping, etc, blindness would not be my first go-too concern, though. Chams will rarely be willing to eat or hunt if they do not feel well due to illness or stress. They can be pretty delicate eaters, especially the babies. However, that does not rule out blindness completely, just that there are other more likely explanations for her reluctance to eat.

~Currently Flukers ReptaBoost 1x daily via syringe. Approx 1/3 -3/4 of a CC. She's refusing the crickets, which we are gut loading with organic grass, greens, carrot shreds, apple dusted w/ vitamin C and Fluker's Orange Cube Cricket Care.

Dump the Flukers Orange Cubes. They are basically garbage. Instead, use a small dish filled entirely with marbles, and fill it up with fresh water daily. The marbles will keep the crickets from drowning, and it's cheaper and cleaner than the Cubes.

~Zoo Med Reptivite for multi vitamins twice monthly when she starts eating insects - haven't given yet because she won't eat insects. Zoo Med Repti Calcium daily or 5x weekly when she starts eating insects. Haven't given yet as she's not eating insects. (Should I be mixing into ReptiBoost?)

Reptiboost already had vitamins and minerals added: I would not add anything. However, you could try adding in finely chopped or pureed silkworms, hornworms, etc to increase the caloric and nutritional value. Repti-Boost is great for the first two or three days, but I would not use it alone for more than a few days. The Repti-Boost could be partly to blame for her unusual poops.

~Misting 2-3x daily with warm water. I have to hold her under a leaf and let it drip directly onto her mouth for her to drink, she acts like she can't see the drops. I also have a homemade dripper, but she's never found the leaf it drips onto and doesn't move around enough to do so.

Chameleons are often very, very shy drinkers. She may not drink from a plant in front of her. I would continue to use the dripper and such when you are not home to at least give her the option, and mist her cage an additional 2x a day and leave immediately after to give her a change to drink on her own if she is shy.

~No parasite testing. This is Day 5 and I've found 3 droppings. They are pale and very sticky, drying to a cream color and usually circular in shape. They will stick to her tail and I will have to wipe them off.

With her current diet (Repti-Boost) I would expect softer stools. However, I would get a couple samples into the vet ASAP to check for parasites. I would be pretty shocked to hear that she wasn't infested, to tell you the truth. Call your reptile vet to see how they would like you to transport the teeny tiny poops.

I have started to soak her in warm water up to her shoulders for 10-15 minutes in the evening to increase her hydration, thinking the very sticky poops might be a sign of dehydration. She turns almost white in the warm water and relaxes so much, she will float right off my finger and swim back to it to hold on. She seems to really enjoy it.

Absolutely do NOT bathe or otherwise submerge a chameleon. Ever. Bathing is highly inappropriate for an arboreal species, and chameleons are proven to be entirely incapable of absorbing water through their skins or cloacas like some aquatic turtles can. The lack of fighting behaviour your chameleon shows during this process does NOT indicate enjoyment: it indicates to me a state of severe psychological shock. The "turning white" indicates that the water is much too warm; chams turn white to diffuse heat in cases of heat distress. Instead of bathing, increase the amount you are misting her cage to 4x a day for 5-10 minutes per session. From your photos it looks like your cham is way, way too small for the usual rehydration method: showering. Showering is a process of rehydration where you turn your shower on lukewarm (not warm or hot) and point the shower head at the wall to create a fine mist. Then you place a plant, real or fake, in the bathtub and place your cham on the plant. The condensation from the fine mist will be gathered by their casques and head ornamentation and directed to their mouths, where they will drink it. It will also help clean their skin, flush their eyes, and soothe respiratory distress. However, very tiny chams may drown if showered,


All screen, 16" Wx 16" D x 30" H, filled with Pothos plants completely so there is only 12-14" of open space. All repotted in organic soil and only organic soil used in store.

Make sure you over all soil with large rocks (too big for her to swallow). Chams are notorious for eating soil and getting impacted.

~Basking: Zoo Med 75w bulb UVB: Zoo Med 26w twisty/curly (should I have gotten the tube?) in a deep dual Zoo Med metal hood. No night warming bulb use. (But I do have one. Should I be using it?) 12 hours with lights, 12 hours without -(9 am on, 9 pm off).

A 5.0 tube would be preferable to the CFL you're using. Do not use any nighttime heat unless your temperature drops lower then 60F or so.

~About 3' off floor in laundry room, next to a window. (Fragrance free laundry products only in our home - soap nuts) No vents or fans, about 6' from washer and dryer. We have a very large and cold house, so this is the warmest room in the house. Traffic is moderate to high as we have 5 kids (8-16), but she comes from a pet store where she lived on the counter next to the cash register with high traffic and frequent handling. She comes to open hands and does not appear to be stressed when looked at or handled. She has only hissed twice in our home - once at the dog and once at my husband's hairy arm when she climbed up from his hand. I have tried moving her cage over this 5 days to find the best place for her.

1. Windows can cause temperature fluctuations: I would invest in a digital temperature probe (the analog dials are almost never accurate) and check temps through out the day. Also, being and to see outside without relief would be very stressful as well, so I would put up a solid visual screen (which may also help with the temp fluctuations).

2. Handling is always stressful for chameleons. Your cham is obviously fighting something right now- I would advise not handing her at all unless it is absolutely necessary (feeding, etc). Even if she is not showing overt signs of aggression, stress is an internal cortisol response that may not be visible. There is no benefit to handling your chameleon for anything other than medical necessity at this time, and it could very well be doing a great deal of harm.

3. Chameleons have no external ears, but are sensitive to low frequencies, such as what your washer and dryer would produce. If you can move her father away from this noise, it would probably be a good idea. The name of the game for ill baby chameleons, is decrease stress, decrease stress, decrease stress. A cooler area of the house may be fine if you use a higher wattage heat light and it remains above 60F or so at night. You could also consider putting some visual screens up so that she is not always seeing people moving around. Just because she may be "used to it" (chams don't really get used to it- they just learn to kind of tolerate it. Sometimes. Maybe) does not mean that high activity around an unwell chameleons enclosure is a good idea.

...Whew! :)
 
Hoo boy, where do I start! lol. Bear with me here...



That is because she is stressed. You have only had her for 5 days- chams can take 2 weeks or more to get used to a new feeding regimen, let alone a new home, enclosure, caretaker, etc, and it's worse if they are unwell. Trying something one or twice or three times is not enough for these guys. They thrive on routine and predictability. Just in case she can actually see: I would put 10x 2-week crickets, dusted with calcium (no D3), in a container large enough that they cannot jump out, but small enough that her tongue will reach the bottom. Hang it in her cage about half way up. Then leave it alone. If it's the right size, the crickets won't be able to get out to bite her, but they will be contained enough to make hunting easier for her. Make sure the container is not clear- you don't want her trying to hunt through the side of the container and hurting her tongue. Check the container daily to see if any of the crickets are missing (this is why I'd count them).

~~Oh, what a fantastic idea about the crickets, thank you! I'm not sure how high they can jump, but I will test them and get the right container in there.~~


Your cham does sound unwell: sleeping through the day and lack of appetite are good indicators that something is wrong for sure. If her eyes are not "gunked over", swollen, sunken. irritated, seeping, etc, blindness would not be my first go-too concern, though. Chams will rarely be willing to eat or hunt if they do not feel well due to illness or stress. They can be pretty delicate eaters, especially the babies. However, that does not rule out blindness completely, just that there are other more likely explanations for her reluctance to eat.




Dump the Flukers Orange Cubes. They are basically garbage. Instead, use a small dish filled entirely with marbles, and fill it up with fresh water daily. The marbles will keep the crickets from drowning, and it's cheaper and cleaner than the Cubes.

~~We made them a 'water fountain' in the awesome cricket sustainable ecosystem we set up. We take a prescription medicine bottle, cut a small hole in the lid and twist a paper towel through it, leaving a cpl inches in the bottle and about 1/2" sticking up. This makes a wick once you fill it with water. I didn't know the orange cubes were just for hydration. If that's the case, we don't need them at all.~~



Reptiboost already had vitamins and minerals added: I would not add anything. However, you could try adding in finely chopped or pureed silkworms, hornworms, etc to increase the caloric and nutritional value. Repti-Boost is great for the first two or three days, but I would not use it alone for more than a few days. The Repti-Boost could be partly to blame for her unusual poops.



Chameleons are often very, very shy drinkers. She may not drink from a plant in front of her. I would continue to use the dripper and such when you are not home to at least give her the option, and mist her cage an additional 2x a day and leave immediately after to give her a change to drink on her own if she is shy.

~~She drank in front of us willingly her 1st day and continues to do so daily - she just isn't putting her head under any actual drops. I don't think she's shy, she just isn't strong or seeing well enough to get it right.~~



With her current diet (Repti-Boost) I would expect softer stools. However, I would get a couple samples into the vet ASAP to check for parasites. I would be pretty shocked to hear that she wasn't infested, to tell you the truth. Call your reptile vet to see how they would like you to transport the teeny tiny poops.

~~I really can't justify the exorbitant vet bill here for something I could figure out how to remedy myself. It costs more for the herpetologist here to see her than for us to take our 175 lb Great Dane in! I did get online and find all the local breeders that sell to the pet stores until I found the one that sold to that store around the time she was supposedly hatched. He looks and sounds very reputable and clean and ethical and says he's never had any issues with parasites. But I suppose that doesn't rule out what she may have been exposed to in the dirty store? Are there any tell-tale symptoms of parasites? I just can't even imagine what the cost of that testing is on top of the exam!~~


Absolutely do NOT bathe or otherwise submerge a chameleon. Ever. Bathing is highly inappropriate for an arboreal species, and chameleons are proven to be entirely incapable of absorbing water through their skins or cloacas like some aquatic turtles can. The lack of fighting behaviour your chameleon shows during this process does NOT indicate enjoyment: it indicates to me a state of severe psychological shock. The "turning white" indicates that the water is much too warm; chams turn white to diffuse heat in cases of heat distress. Instead of bathing, increase the amount you are misting her cage to 4x a day for 5-10 minutes per session. From your photos it looks like your cham is way, way too small for the usual rehydration method: showering. Showering is a process of rehydration where you turn your shower on lukewarm (not warm or hot) and point the shower head at the wall to create a fine mist. Then you place a plant, real or fake, in the bathtub and place your cham on the plant. The condensation from the fine mist will be gathered by their casques and head ornamentation and directed to their mouths, where they will drink it. It will also help clean their skin, flush their eyes, and soothe respiratory distress. However, very tiny chams may drown if showered,


~~So glad I posted here, I had no idea! I guess I was following protocol we learned for the beardie, thank you for enlightening me.~~

Make sure you over all soil with large rocks (too big for her to swallow). Chams are notorious for eating soil and getting impacted.

~~I did cover the soil with clean river rocks after she fell into a pot and got dirt all over her face and around her eyes. Then I put the buffer of dense leaves over the rocks so she can't fall on those.~~



A 5.0 tube would be preferable to the CFL you're using. Do not use any nighttime heat unless your temperature drops lower then 60F or so.

~~I read that they should be a little cooler than adults, so I set the night warmer aside and haven't used it. She's right at 60 - 65 all night, I check periodically.~~

1. Windows can cause temperature fluctuations: I would invest in a digital temperature probe (the analog dials are almost never accurate) and check temps through out the day. Also, being and to see outside without relief would be very stressful as well, so I would put up a solid visual screen (which may also help with the temp fluctuations).

~~I have draped a heavy bridal veil plant over the back and side of the cage as a "buffer", but I will try to find a place away from the washer/dryer and window now.~~

2. Handling is always stressful for chameleons. Your cham is obviously fighting something right now- I would advise not handing her at all unless it is absolutely necessary (feeding, etc). Even if she is not showing overt signs of aggression, stress is an internal cortisol response that may not be visible. There is no benefit to handling your chameleon for anything other than medical necessity at this time, and it could very well be doing a great deal of harm.

3. Chameleons have no external ears, but are sensitive to low frequencies, such as what your washer and dryer would produce. If you can move her father away from this noise, it would probably be a good idea. The name of the game for ill baby chameleons, is decrease stress, decrease stress, decrease stress. A cooler area of the house may be fine if you use a higher wattage heat light and it remains above 60F or so at night. You could also consider putting some visual screens up so that she is not always seeing people moving around. Just because she may be "used to it" (chams don't really get used to it- they just learn to kind of tolerate it. Sometimes. Maybe) does not mean that high activity around an unwell chameleons enclosure is a good idea.

...Whew! :)

~~Thank you so much, I feel better already with some new things to try.~~
 
I have 15 chameleons. 14 are montane species but one is a male veiled. He is 16 months old and I have had him since he was about 6 weeks old. I use both tube and compact UVB lights in my reptile room without any adverse effects. I fed my baby veiled, Spike, ONLY flightless fruit flies for the first 3 months of his life. He also nibbled quite a bit on the pothos plants in his small 20"x18"x12" screen enclosure. He also did not have a heat lamp for the first 4 months or so as baby chameleons are not well-equipped to regulate their body temps and are known to sit under the heat lamp even as they overheat (and die!). In fact, below are the temps that are most often recommended for veileds. I'm thinking that your temps may be too high for such a young baby. Also, you might consider providing her with smaller branches and/or vines that she can fully wrap her little feet around so that she feels more secure and can tightly grasp and fall less often. I admire your hard work and desire to save this little girl. Good luck and please keep us posted. Thanks!

Baby/juvenile (<9 months): ambient 72-80F (22-26C), basking 85F (29C)
Adult males: ambient 75-80F (23-26C), basking 90-95F (32-35C)
Adult females: ambient 75-80F (23-26C), basking 85F (29C)
 
I think MissLissa covered about everything here! Take her advise!
I would just like to make a comment on that picture where you hold your chameleon next to the snout of your dog. Do not do that. It will cause your chameleon much stress to be so close to a predator. They can form bonds with their owners but not with dogs or any kind of animal that would be considered a predator. It can stress them just by seeing a potential predator from their enclosure.
I have an adult panther and he shows obvious signs of stress if he for example is in his free range and sees my dog wandering into the room
 
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