I've kept Fischer's quite a few times over the last 20+ years. I kept them all in glass cages with ventilation in the front and with screen lids...and they lived long healthy lives. They were all WC's too.
As was already said...you are handling her too often, UVB either from direct sunlight or from a UVB light (that does not pass through glass or plastic), she needs proper supplementing, no substrate (since it can be ingested and lead to an impaction). Since you've only had her two days, the only part of this that could/would have had an impact on her is the handling or the substrate, if she ingested any of it.
What is wrong with her may not be your fault at all...when dealing with WC's there can often be health issues....parasites, bacteria, stress that puts the immune system down, etc. She looks older than 6 months IMHO too. Fischer's often suffer from a "failure to thrive" in captivity too...which is another reason for not handling her often.
Do not put her outside in a glass cage...you will need a screen one if you are going to leave her out for a while...and part of it should be in the shade so she can escape the sunlight if she needs to. If its very hot where you are living, she will also need to be kept well watered/misted while she is out there.
It would be helpful if you could provide her with more greenery and branches in the cage so she has places to hide if she wants to.
The following is information you will need to keep her properly...
She needs gutloaded/well fed insects, water supplied through misting and dripping...and since she's an egglaying female that is obviously big enough to reproduce, a place to dig in the cage so that she can lay eggs if she needs to.
You need to know the temperatures in the cage too. The basking temp should be in the low 80'sF and the rest of the cage in the mid to high 70'sF.
Here's some information that I hope will help...
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Hope this helps!
i am going to look back to the thread and see if Laurie is back yet lol and welcome to the forum! I would do a search for proper vitamin schedule for a Fischer, I don't want to recommend one in case it may be different then panther. I think your temps should be around 85 at top and 70 at bottom.
. I like her so much but too new for chameleon.
, they are cool looking! I wasn't sure if it was the same care as panthers, I did a quick search and it seems very similar 
