chameleon dream team ?
ok, what the H is going on?
WOW!, a new keeper personally replied to, by "THE MAN, ALLEN REPASHY, HIMSELF", hopefully you recognize and appreciate the honor in that !
not to mention hoj, carlton, kinyonga and sandra chameleon, all in the same thread?, that is like having the dream team of reptile and chameleon husbandry at your disposal. i will be forever jealous !
i agree with Allen, that the issue is some how tied to vitaminA,
however, based on the assumption (here i go again), that the animal had at least some sort of supp regimen before you got him, and armed with the knowledge that at least, ime, over-supplementation is FAR more common than under-supplementation, especially where a jacksons is concerned, i also tend to agree with SandraChameleons blog, where she raises the possibilty that it could also be an issue of D3/vitaminA ratio, rather than just a straight forward deficiency of either.
imo, excess D3, has long been suspected of inhibiting the absorbtion/utilization of some vitamins, i believe this includes vitaminA, so i tend to suspect that it is the relation between the two rather the just a straight forward deficiency or excess of one or the other.
if his metabolism has changed in a way that prevents absorption of vitaminA or anything else for that matter, then simply giving more of the deficient item may not be enough.
my observations;
1. its not your cage, its your animals cage, you dont have to live in it, your life doesnt depend on it.
that being said, imo, a waterfall is not even a debatable option, its a known cham husbandry no-no, and a guaranteed pathogenic risk, if you want your jackson to thrive long term , then get rid of it, regardless of how cool it looks or convenient it is.
2. also a proven fact that chams of any age need uvb lighting, without it, they can go down hill at an alarming pace, and can be very difficult, if not impossible to correct, once it reaches a severe symptomatic stage.
i noticed in your help form that you had a clear glass top. UVB, DOES NOT PASS THROUGH TYPICAL GLASS IN ANY SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS , so, if you are trying to deliver your uvb, by shinning it through glass, you may as well not even be using it. imo, if this is the case, i suspect it is a major player in the scenario, that you need to correct as soon as you read this post.
3. what would i do? given his unknown dietary and supplemental history, prior to you getting him, and given his present condition, you need to assume that there was some sort of inappropriate dietary/supplemental regimen before you got him. so it will be up to you to correct it and put his system back in balance. also, if gotten from from a keeper whose resources might have been stretched, and him knowing that the animal was headed for a reptile show anyway, its not unreasonable to assume that he also had improper lighting before you got him. lets face it, if someone is an uncaring for profit keeper, and he is overstretched and trying to prepare for upcoming said reptile show, then what difference does it make to him, if a cham goes without proper lighting for a week anyway.
so i would recommend,
before anything else, get rid of the glass top to fix the lighting issue, even a few hrs without uvb, could be a serious issue for for an animal that is already uvb compromised. also be sure you are providing proper uva as well.
since the onice is on you to correct any imbalances that may have occurred before you got him. given that you dont know his supplemental history, imo, the safest way to proceed, would be the most natural way. by this i mean only a tiny pinch of PLAIN cal each week, jacksons dont need that much, and there is a reasonable chance he has already had too much anyway. it could be playing a role as well, if his insides are starting to calcify, then that could lead to vitamin absorbtion issues. so, imo less is better than more. both too much D3 and/or too, much calcium have been known to cause interior calcification issues.
since his D3 history is at question, i would withold/discontinue any D3 supplementation whatsoever and like allen says get him at least 3 or 4 hrs of natural sunshine(even shade)a week. imo, intentional supplementation of D3 at this point is likely to do more harm than good. so if you minimize your plain cal and substitute natural d3 production instead of supplemental d3 this will bring both calcium and d3 into balance over time
just to be sure its available, i would use, (as allen suggested) a proformed vitamin A supp, sparingly, one time then hold off for a while to see how things progress.
imo you really should x the waterfall, set him up with a dripper of clean un-supplemented water and he really should be misted at least 5x a day if hand misting. you might want to consider getting a 1/2 gal pump sprayer at hd for about $8, much easier than a squeeze trigger sprayer. he needs his entire cage almost drenched, not just a little spritz, on the cham itself, i dont think the sprayer in the photo even holds enough for one full misting.
if you are not able to be there to mist that often during the day, he really should have an automatic mister like a mist king. you cant just get home from work and then mist him 5x that doesnt count, he needs it at spaced intervals throughout the day, imo all misting should be over by 2 hrs before lights out.
even adult jacksons have been known to relish the occasional fruitfly. so imo since interior calcification is a possible issue i would try to get him some hydei that have been raised on a vinegar based medium. if thats not likely to happen, you could occasionally inject a feeder with one drop of apple cider vinegar. vinegar contains acetic acid which breaks the bond of calcium and may help over time, if there are interior calcification issues
im all for avoiding the vet whenever possible, but given that these are a fragile species and given that you have little to no exp with this particular species and that time is likely of the essence you probably should see a genuine herp vet and probably request a blood panel and fecal float jmo
ps nice looking cage, interesting background, you of course used a waterproof and food safe finish instead of varnish to coat it with i hope.