My veiled chameleon is unusually friendly and adventurous!

kjward

New Member
So my veiled cham named penõ is around a year old. I got him at a pet store ( I know this is frowned upon but when I saw him I had to get him). Ever since he was a baby he always wanted out or to be held. I figured at the time this was just because he was young and that this would eventually go away when he entered his adult age. I was wrong. This dude LOVES being held, out of his cage and is obsessed with exploring. He will refuse to go back into his cage once I let him out. I know most people would say that he doesn’t like his enclosure but the temp is right, correct humidity, lots of climbing room and tons of real plants (all are real except one vine that goes across his cage) he is super friendly and not shy at all around me, and most people that come near if they are slow and patient with him. Of course he has his bratty moments but all chams do. He’s also very dumb and doesn’t have any fear of the outside world haha. But this also concerns me a little. What motivated me to right this thread is today I was working on my computer putting some new parts in. I left penõ on his tree outside of his cage because he ran to the door and on my hand when I got off work. I had been working on the computer for around 5 minutes so I took my eyes off him. Next thing you know I see him climbing under my leg on the floor and onto my computer that was laying flat on the floor. My desk is on the other side of my small studio apartment. I didn’t see him get off the tree, but I can only assume that he rather “jumped” or fell off his tree trying to explore. (I would say that it’s around a 1.5ft drop) He looks fine, I watched him for a while after putting him back in his cage. But I’m in utter shock of his personality. Hes done this a few times, this is why I let him out only on well-supervised time, this time I just slipped up. This is my first experience with a chameleon so If there’s anyone out there with an adventurous friendly veiled please let me know that im not the only one and that I don’t have a chameleon with the personality of a puppy, thanks! Here’s some pics of him for reference.
 

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You could have a very friendly veiled with a puppy dog attitude but from what I've read sometimes, wanting to leave their enclosure can mean there are aspects or parts of it bothering them.

I first thought mine was like that too when I first met him at the rescue place I adopted him from. My veiled used to paw at the cage when he was at the place I got him from. I had put him on hold for a week- two weeks before I brought him home so I would often go by to check on him. Every time I went to see him, he would be right at the front wanting to come out or even hanging onto the sidewalls of the screen cage...the enclosure he was in was very small for an adult male veiled chameleon and didn't have the proper UVB set up either. (this was the same enclosure he was surrendered in).

When we got him home to a proper 2-2-4 reptibreeze enclosure with proper temperatures and lighting he did not paw to come out at all. He seems very interested in staying inside his new home. But this is just anecdotal, if you'd like some more specific feedback from more experienced users on here-- I would recommend filling out the husbandry check form.

I've also heard chams around 1 year old will want to explore and come out of their cage in search for a female so this could also explain the behavior...just guessing tho.
 
So my veiled cham named penõ is around a year old. I got him at a pet store ( I know this is frowned upon but when I saw him I had to get him). Ever since he was a baby he always wanted out or to be held. I figured at the time this was just because he was young and that this would eventually go away when he entered his adult age. I was wrong. This dude LOVES being held, out of his cage and is obsessed with exploring. He will refuse to go back into his cage once I let him out. I know most people would say that he doesn’t like his enclosure but the temp is right, correct humidity, lots of climbing room and tons of real plants (all are real except one vine that goes across his cage) he is super friendly and not shy at all around me, and most people that come near if they are slow and patient with him. Of course he has his bratty moments but all chams do. He’s also very dumb and doesn’t have any fear of the outside world haha. But this also concerns me a little. What motivated me to right this thread is today I was working on my computer putting some new parts in. I left penõ on his tree outside of his cage because he ran to the door and on my hand when I got off work. I had been working on the computer for around 5 minutes so I took my eyes off him. Next thing you know I see him climbing under my leg on the floor and onto my computer that was laying flat on the floor. My desk is on the other side of my small studio apartment. I didn’t see him get off the tree, but I can only assume that he rather “jumped” or fell off his tree trying to explore. (I would say that it’s around a 1.5ft drop) He looks fine, I watched him for a while after putting him back in his cage. But I’m in utter shock of his personality. Hes done this a few times, this is why I let him out only on well-supervised time, this time I just slipped up. This is my first experience with a chameleon so If there’s anyone out there with an adventurous friendly veiled please let me know that im not the only one and that I don’t have a chameleon with the personality of a puppy, thanks! Here’s some pics of him for reference.
If you need

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Thanks for the response! I’m almost positive I have the same enclosure size you do, its the biggest reptibreeze one I could find. And I want to say this- he doesn’t ALWAYS want to be out, some days he doesn’t leave the back basking spot for most of the day, only leaving occasionally so climb down and around the rest of the enclosure. I would like to think he is happy, everything I have researched points to a happy little guy! Again, I am not a pro In the repti world so I appreciate any tips and responses!
 
Thanks for the response! I’m almost positive I have the same enclosure size you do, its the biggest reptibreeze one I could find. And I want to say this- he doesn’t ALWAYS want to be out, some days he doesn’t leave the back basking spot for most of the day, only leaving occasionally so climb down and around the rest of the enclosure. I would like to think he is happy, everything I have researched points to a happy little guy! Again, I am not a pro In the repti world so I appreciate any tips and responses!
That's great! Hopefully, your little guy is just an explorer or looking for a cute female!
 
Hi and welcome! :) Usually chameleons are more than content to avoid us humans, especially veileds. Usually they just see us as a way to escape an enclosure they may not like or that doesn’t meet their needs or as transportation to an area that they really enjoy, such as a nice free range area. While there are exceptions to every rule, it would be great to see some pics of your enclosure (including lights) and do a husbandry review just to make sure your handsome guy is one of the more rare friendly veileds.
 
My Veiled was like this until he hit the 15-16 month mark. To the point where if he was on his free range he would climb down it and walk the 5 feet across the floor to my pant leg and crawl up my leg. Then he started to develop his attitude and would choose when he wanted to come out and if he wanted to be handled. I let him choose to this day and do not force it.

Now as mentioned making sure the cage is correct is the first really important aspect. What you are describing is most commonly linked to a chameleon that is not content. While it is rare to have one prefer the company of their human and being out of their enclosure it can happen. But first you want to make sure that husbandry is spot on.

I would be particular about who you let handle him now that he is maturing. It does not take much to piss them off and if a person is not familiar with handling or reacting to a cham they could hurt him if he were to take an aggressive stance. My cham loves my mother but fires up and gets feisty if my daughter even goes near his cage.
 
He is very particular of who he let’s hold him, only with some of my friends he’s ok with and my brother, he hates whenever my mom comes to visit 😆 I always let him willingly climb a visitor. I also never force him to come out, I’ll just open the door and stand a few feet back just to make sure. When I get off work I’ll send a pic, should be around an hour!
 
Here’s his enclosure, as soon as I got home, he of course wanted out and even got on the mesh door… reading these replies get me worried that he is unhappy, so please give me any tips if possible!

His basking temp sits around 93 degrees, I mist day and night, and feed him only worms/ roaches because he doesn’t have any interest in crickets. Ad I’m writing this he has “given up” and gone to the back of his enclosure and is basking.
 

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Ok so he can get way too close to that 10.0 uvb. You should switch it out for a 5.0 and the distance from highest branch to the 5.0 should be 8-9 inches. Until then you have to put 11-12 inches distance between him and that 10.0. Him being able to get so close to a high power bulb is giving overexposure.

Basking is really warm, needs to be 85 max. Get a lower wattage bulb or raise it more off the screen.

I would also move your plants down a bit and add more horizontal branches rather than vertical. You don't want him able to get so close to your uvb as it is, especially given you have the 10.0 and not the 5.0.

Fill this out in full, it will be easier to see all your info at once and correct it all in one go. :) Don't skip any questions and answer as detailed as possible.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Welcome to the forums, by the way! You will learn everything you need to know here.
 
  • Chameleon - Male Chameleon, around a year old, not exactly sure. He has been in my care since he was about 1-2 months old
  • Handling - Every 2 days or so, really just to put him on his tree.
  • Feeding - Wax worms, Super worms, Dubia Roaches. Feeding Every other day, sometimes a little treat in between. Hornworms every week to week and a half when the store has them. No crickets (he has no interest).
  • Supplements - dust with Exo terra calcium, dust with Exo terra vitamins 3 times a month
  • Watering - Fill his dripper twice a day with the recommended amount of reptisafe drops, Sometimes when I worry that he hasn't had enough water he will let me give him water by hand. Mist in the morning and at night.
  • Fecal Description - Brown/green, softish oval shape. Never been tested for parasites.
  • History- When he was very young the very end of his tail caught in the corner of the cage door, causing it to eventually fall off. We took him to the vet right after and he has since made a full recovery with full function of his tail. That's the only notable thing I have of his history

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Zoo Med Reptibreeze XL screen cage 48 x 24 x 24 inches
  • Lighting - Zoo Med Reptisun 10.0 UVB Fluorescent 24W 22'' bulb. Lights turn on at 8:30am, turn off at 8:20pm.
  • Temperature - 85-90 degrees Lowest temp is around 62 degrees at night when lights are off
  • Humidity - 40%. Hand Mist
  • Plants - Pothos, Cane, Schefflera, and an artificial vine.
  • Placement - In front of the window because he loves to look outside, near air vent but I put a plastic vent hood so it deflects any air from going directly on him. cage sits at around 6 ft tall.
  • Location - I live in Athens, Ga.

Current Problem - Overly adventurous, trying to "escape"
 
  • Chameleon - Male Chameleon, around a year old, not exactly sure. He has been in my care since he was about 1-2 months old
  • Handling - Every 2 days or so, really just to put him on his tree.
  • Feeding - Wax worms, Super worms, Dubia Roaches. Feeding Every other day, sometimes a little treat in between. Hornworms every week to week and a half when the store has them. No crickets (he has no interest).
Waxworms and super worms should be fed as treats, not staples. Dubia's are great though. You should be feeding 3-4 appropriately sized food items every other day/3 times a week. Horn worms are good for hydration but not much else. What do you use to gut load?
  • Supplements - dust with Exo terra calcium, dust with Exo terra vitamins 3 times a month
Supplement schedule should be:
Calcium w/o d3 every feeding except,

Multivitamin (I use reptivite) w/o d3 twice a month (once every other week)
Calcium w/d3 twice a month (once every other week)
  • Watering - Fill his dripper twice a day with the recommended amount of reptisafe drops, Sometimes when I worry that he hasn't had enough water he will let me give him water by hand. Mist in the morning and at night.
Drippers are good but make sure the water doesn't pool anywhere. Mistkings are worth every penny and I would definitely get one as soon as you can. It'll make it so much easier on you and give your cham consistency. I personally use distilled/RO water because tap water (even if dechlorinated) will cause mineral buildup in the misting system. The water you are using should be fine in terms of safe for him though.

Mist about 2-3 minutes in the morning and 2-3 minutes in the evening. You can also do a short mid-day misting (not as long as morning and evening mistings) and then a very brief one at night to boost humidity. I have my lights set up so that whenever the mister goes off, the heat light is off for about an hour (off 30 minutes before and after the misting takes place). This allows the temps to decrease during the high humidity right after misting. UVB stays on the duration for your day cycle. (12 off 12 on).

Morning and evening schedule: UVB comes on at 8:30
, mist at 9, heat lamp on at 9:30. - Heat lamp off at 7:30, Mist at 8, UVB off at 8:30. Same concept if you do a mid-day misting.
  • Fecal Description - Brown/green, softish oval shape. Never been tested for parasites.
Take in a sample to a vet that has some reptile experience, especially if you purchased your boy from the pet store.
  • History- When he was very young the very end of his tail caught in the corner of the cage door, causing it to eventually fall off. We took him to the vet right after and he has since made a full recovery with full function of his tail. That's the only notable thing I have of his history
Good thing that he healed well, could I see a picture just to be sure?

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Zoo Med Reptibreeze XL screen cage 48 x 24 x 24 inches
This is the baseline size, but good. You could always go bigger if you wanted though!
  • Lighting - Zoo Med Reptisun 10.0 UVB Fluorescent 24W 22'' bulb. Lights turn on at 8:30am, turn off at 8:20pm.
As I said before, downgrade to a 5.0 ASAP. In the meantime move all branches and plants down so you have 12 inches distance between highest branch/area to the UVB bulb. He has been wayyy overexposed to UVB. After you get the 5.0 8-9 inches distance between highest branch/plant to bulb is perfect.
  • Temperature - 85-90 degrees Lowest temp is around 62 degrees at night when lights are off
Basking/heat should be 85 degrees max during the day. That nighttime temp drop is great!

What do you use to measure temps and humidity?
  • Humidity - 40%. Hand Mist
Humidity should be between 30-40, so this is good. It is normal for humidity to spike quite a bit after misting. Night time humidity should be 70+. Some people use foggers/humidifiers to achieve this. I would not use foggers or anything like that if you cant get your nighttime temps below 67 or so.
  • Plants - Pothos, Cane, Schefflera, and an artificial vine.
Dont recommend fake vines, natural is always best. I couldn't see what kind you were using but sometimes the texture can irritate the chameleon, or parts of the vine can flake off. You can just go outside and collect branches. Make sure the branches don't come from anything with sap. You can rinse them off with some soap to be sure there isnt any unwanted pests. Some people bake them to be really sure, but a good rinse with some soap is usually ok.

Pothos and schefflera are good, canes are okay as well but your cane plants seem to take up quite a bit of the enclosure, and they aren't the best for cover and climbing. I would get more Pothos as they are a very easy plant (usually) and give great cover and climbing space. You really need some sort of plant light to keep the plants healthy. Lots of folks recommend the jungle dawn bar, but it is quite expensive. Bulbs by SANSI will work too.


  • Placement - In front of the window because he loves to look outside, near air vent but I put a plastic vent hood so it deflects any air from going directly on him. cage sits at around 6 ft tall.
I would move the cage from the window especially if the window gets direct sun.
  • Location - I live in Athens, Ga.

Current Problem - Overly adventurous, trying to "escape"
This is likely due to the imperfection in his enclosure and care.

More pics of him would be good, of his whole body just to make sure everything is well. See my questions in bold.

More info:
Go through these modules: https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

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Ok, wow! There’s a lot I need to do! I’m so grateful for your help, I’ll see if I can snag a pic of his tail for ya. Again, i really appreciate the tips and I will definitely be upgrading and fixing my setup, is there any online insect websites that you recommend? There’s not many places in my area that carry most of these bugs.
 

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Just to note exoterra multivitamin does not have vitamin A in it but it does have D3. So you would only use it 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. It has not been proven one way or the other that the beta carotene in it converts to usable vitamin A.
Make sure the exoterra calcium you use is the plain without D3 version.

Tail tip looks healed.
 
Ok, wow! There’s a lot I need to do! I’m so grateful for your help, I’ll see if I can snag a pic of his tail for ya. Again, i really appreciate the tips and I will definitely be upgrading and fixing my setup, is there any online insect websites that you recommend? There’s not many places in my area that carry most of these bugs.
Anytime, as Becca said tail tip looks good. Appreciate that you are willing to do everything. I personally use critter depot (because they are cheaper for the amount of bugs I need), but I've heard good things about josh frogs, lindasgonebuggie, and rainbowmealworms. Make sure you aren't too far away from the place you choose or your bugs will arrive dead. Coastal silkworms is what i've always used for silks.

In my responses to the help form, I bolded the questions I had. Could you answer these? :)

What do you use to gut load?

What do you use to measure temps and humidity?


Also, on the sheet I gave it lists BSFL larvae as a staple. Personally I never feed the larva form as sometimes they can come out whole/even still alive in their poop which is unnerving to say the least. My boy loves the catch the flies though. Flies in general are more of an enrichment thing.
 
Personally I pick 8-12+ different greens, veggies (and a few fruits) and blend it all up. Then I add some bee pollen and bug burger (commercial gut load), measure into ice cube trays and freeze. Just dethaw for use. Lasts for months especially if you don't have tons of bugs. If you cant do this, I would add a few more greens/veggies from that list and then get one of the commercial gut loads listed on that chart to add extra nutrients. You can add some bee pollen as well. The point is to pass on some of these nutrients into your chameleon.
 
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