My home made enclosure

Hi All,

I'm just about finished up with the enclosure and I am so happy with how it turned out. the misting system I built works great. I have a few small things to do, like add more branches. Also, I am getting my first Chameleon next week Tuesday! The plan is to get a male and female Nosy Faly. I'm starting with an adult female. She was a holdback, sired by Patriot, from the breeder I'm working with, Paradise Chameleons. I added in a lay bin, but I'm worried it isn't deep enough (it's only 7 inches). I'm going to change it out for a deeper bin that will live in the tank all the time. She could lay in the bioactive substrate instead, but I'm worried I won't be able to find the eggs lol. I'm also worried it isn't deep enough, the soil is about 6".

I'm using an AMAZING hygrometer/thermometer that I got from amazon. It's a little more expensive than other digital meters but there is an app you can use to check your readings...and the biggest benefit is that it keeps track of your readings so I can see any and all fluctuations in my temps and humidity. It has been a huge help with my misting schedule and catching and fixing problems like humidity dips. I will like the meters below. They are affiliate links for full transparency. They are amazing!

Govee Bluetooth Indoor Outdoor Thermometer, Digital Wireless Hygrometer​

https://amzn.to/2R9mzXC

Govee Indoor Outdoor Thermometer, WiFi Hygrometer Thermometer​

https://amzn.to/34D1tUQ

Here are some screenshots of the interface

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Here are some pictures of the 99% finished enclosure :)

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This my misting system and drainage setup.

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Each side has two misting nozzles

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Hi All,

I'm just about finished up with the enclosure and I am so happy with how it turned out. the misting system I built works great. I have a few small things to do, like add more branches. Also, I am getting my first Chameleon next week Tuesday! The plan is to get a male and female Nosy Faly. I'm starting with an adult female. She was a holdback, sired by Patriot, from the breeder I'm working with, Paradise Chameleons. I added in a lay bin, but I'm worried it isn't deep enough (it's only 7 inches). I'm going to change it out for a deeper bin that will live in the tank all the time. She could lay in the bioactive substrate instead, but I'm worried I won't be able to find the eggs lol. I'm also worried it isn't deep enough, the soil is about 6".

I'm using an AMAZING hygrometer/thermometer that I got from amazon. It's a little more expensive than other digital meters but there is an app you can use to check your readings...and the biggest benefit is that it keeps track of your readings so I can see any and all fluctuations in my temps and humidity. It has been a huge help with my misting schedule and catching and fixing problems like humidity dips. I will like the meters below. They are affiliate links for full transparency. They are amazing!

Govee Bluetooth Indoor Outdoor Thermometer, Digital Wireless Hygrometer​

https://amzn.to/2R9mzXC

Govee Indoor Outdoor Thermometer, WiFi Hygrometer Thermometer​

https://amzn.to/34D1tUQ

Here are some screenshots of the interface

View attachment 302580 View attachment 302581


Here are some pictures of the 99% finished enclosure :)

View attachment 302574View attachment 302575View attachment 302576


This my misting system and drainage setup.

View attachment 302577View attachment 302578

Each side has two misting nozzles

View attachment 302579
6“ is perfect for a lay bin! The humidity is a little high, though. What’s your lighting schedule?
 
6“ is perfect for a lay bin! The humidity is a little high, though. What’s your lighting schedule?
Thanks for feedback. My lights are on a 12h on/off cycle. they turn on at 8 am and turn off at 8 pm.

I'm still getting my basking spot tuned. I have a dimmable fixture for the heat bulb. It's hard to get it "right". Currently, the basking area gets to 85 at the highest on the girl's side and 90 on the boy's side. I found when the temps were higher the humidity dropped faster after the lights turned on. Right now it takes until noon for the levels to get down to around 50%.

Maybe I should tweak my before lights mists from 30 mins before to an hour before lights on.
 
Looking goood!
Bring on the cham!! :)
Are the fitting's on the spray head brass? If so, is brass OK to use with RO water?
Thanks for the question. Yes, they are brass. I will look into it. I have been using dechlorinated water. We have a bunch of fish tanks and I read treated water is a good option. Would you recommend against this?
 
Thanks for the question. Yes, they are brass. I will look into it. I have been using dechlorinated water. We have a bunch of fish tanks and I read treated water is a good option. Would you recommend against this?
Dechlorinated water still contains calcium and other minerals/salts that are the enemies of misting pumps & nozzles. RO, de-mineralized, or distilled are the recommended water types.
 
Thanks for feedback. My lights are on a 12h on/off cycle. they turn on at 8 am and turn off at 8 pm.

I'm still getting my basking spot tuned. I have a dimmable fixture for the heat bulb. It's hard to get it "right". Currently, the basking area gets to 85 at the highest on the girl's side and 90 on the boy's side. I found when the temps were higher the humidity dropped faster after the lights turned on. Right now it takes until noon for the levels to get down to around 50%.

Maybe I should tweak my before lights mists from 30 mins before to an hour before lights on.
I would figure out a way (less misting, shorting misting, something) to lower the humidity, especially as it gets closer to lights on and such. How old are your chams goin to be? Depending on age, the male’s basking spot needs to be either 80*F or around 85*F. The female should be 78-80*F either way. What are you measuring your basking temps with? How long is each misting session? You could always add a dripper to each cage to add a water source during the day without adding humidity
 
I would figure out a way (less misting, shorting misting, something) to lower the humidity, especially as it gets closer to lights on and such. How old are your chams goin to be? Depending on age, the male’s basking spot needs to be either 80*F or around 85*F. The female should be 78-80*F either way. What are you measuring your basking temps with? How long is each misting session? You could always add a dripper to each cage to add a water source during the day without adding humidity
I'm using a laser thermometer gun to measure. The sessions are 5 mins each at 8:30 pm, 2:30 am, and 7:20 am.
 
Dechlorinated water still contains calcium and other minerals/salts that are the enemies of misting pumps & nozzles. RO, de-mineralized, or distilled are the recommended water types.
Perfect! Guess were installing an RO system this summer. It was always the plan to put one in, even before we got into the hobby. Thanks for the information.
 
I'm using a laser thermometer gun to measure. The sessions are 5 mins each at 8:30 pm, 2:30 am, and 7:20 am.
To help with the humidity, the 2:30 am one can be shorter, like 15-30 seconds, it's just to help boost levels in the middle of the night. For measuring basking temps, you want a digital thermometer with a probe for the most accurate results. You'll place the probe where the back of your chameleon's back is when he/she is on his/her basking branch
 
To help with the humidity, the 2:30 am one can be shorter, like 15-30 seconds, it's just to help boost levels in the middle of the night. For measuring basking temps, you want a digital thermometer with a probe for the most accurate results. You'll place the probe where the back of your chameleon's back is when he/she is on his/her basking branch
That makes sense. Thanks for the advice. I grabbed the thermometer gun because that seemed to be the consensus when I was researching. I did see a couple of folks recommend a probe tho.
 
That makes sense. Thanks for the advice. I grabbed the thermometer gun because that seemed to be the consensus when I was researching. I did see a couple of folks recommend a probe tho.
A weakness of temp guns that is often not mentioned is emissivity.

Reference Table of Emission Coefficients per Material​

Emissivity of some common materials (only use these values as a guideline, we cannot guarantee their accuracy):

Aluminum Foil0.04
Aluminum anodized0.90
Asphalt0.93
Black Body, matte1.00
Brick, red0.75 – 0.93
Chrome, polished0.05
Concrete0.85 – 0.94
Copper, polished0.02 – 0.05
Copper, oxidized0.87
Fabric0.87 – 0.98
Galvanized Pipe0.46
Glass0.92 – 0.95
Granite0.45
Gypsum0.85
Ice0.97
Iron, polished0.14 – 0.38
Iron, rusted red0.61
Limestone0.92
Marble, polished0.89 – 0.92
Marble, white0.95
Paper, white0.68
Plaster, rough0.89
Plastic0.84 – 0.95
Quartz Glass0.93
Rubber, black0.95
Sand0.90
Skin, human0.98
Snow0.80
Soil0.92 – 0.95
Silver, polished0.02
Silver, oxidized0.04
Snow0.80-0.90
Steel, oxidized0.75
Steel, polished0.07
Tape, electrical, black0.97
Tile0.97
Water0.95 – 0.98
Wood0.86 – 0.90

Source: https://ennologic.com/emissivity-infrared-thermometer-readings/

The temp guns most of us have are preset to a specific emissivity of around 0.95. There are guns with emissivity adjustment features, but they tend to cost (2-3X) more than preset guns.

What does this mean to herpers? A fixed emissivity temp gun gets us in the ballpark, but can be a few degrees off. This can be important when trying to determine basking site temps. Solutions include digital thermometers with probes, which are generally quite accurate (±1°)*, and establishing basking gradients by mounting basking lights at an angle to the basking zone. E.g.

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* I like inexpensive combination hygrometer/thermometers with probes like these (there are lots of other choices). I buy several at a time, which helps in monitoring different locations within an enclosure, and gauging their accuracy in relation to each other, household thermostat, and temp gun readings.
 
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