camimom
New Member
totally recommend it. my guy had a slight tongue aiming issue, after two months of repashy, no more issue.
My Chameleon fell
- Thread starter Teymur
- Start date
totally recommend it. my guy had a slight tongue aiming issue, after two months of repashy, no more issue.
Since you haven't been giving him calcium, its possible that its playing a part in his condition since the fall. If he has MBD/calcium deficiency you will need to correct it and then follow proper husbandry to prevent it from returning.
Here's some information I hope will help you ....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Here's some information I hope will help you ....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Mredhorse
Member
Does he have nails? He is really hugging the vine.
camimom
New Member
Lack of nails would be an issue. but i doubt thats why.
hes probably huggin it so tight becuase hes weak from lack of supplements.
jaglon53
Member
Yeah I agree with you on the rephashy it smells like a banana as well. I wonder if the formula has any similarities to Trex chameleon dust because they smell and look very much alike. I know that the Trex chameleon dust didnt get much praise if any at all from the chameleon community but when I use to use it about five years ago I thought my chams liked the taste of it. Sorry to get sidetracked at the risk of sounding repetitious def get rid of waterfall(they like to poop in them for some reason) and I would start using the supplements that everyone has listed also he should get misted 4-5 times a day.
camimom
New Member
laurie
Retired Moderator
Hello, I stayed away from this thread. I feel like you have been given a lot of good information and don't want to follow it. I along with half the rest of the forum think your cham has MBD. You need to treat him at the very least. before you do an all in one you need to try to get him up to par. He isn't even close. He is weak and needs help fast - like now. Please help him, he is still at a point that he can have a normal life IF you take good care of him starting now. Get all 3 supplements, start gutloading your feeders, make the needed changes to his home. You owe that to him. He depends on you for life and quality of life, try to provide for his needs. I am sorry if I sound harsh but that cham needs you. He should have lots of misting with warm water, some good feeders and supplements, and you will be amazed at the new chameleon you will have.
SonTigerPantherCham
New Member
Thank you Laurie, as always well stated and always firm but compassionate.
anne
anne
Synapse
Member
Thank you for saying everything I was gonna say Laurie!
To the OP, please help the little guy! He looks really weak in the pictures and you can definitely help him get better if you follow the great advice from our forum members.
OldChamKeeper
Chameleon Enthusiast
By no means take what I say in a personal way, you came here for help and you are getting it.
In looking at your photos I see three issues that pertain to the animal itself, others have commented on the cage so I won't touch that.
From the joints, spine, and casque you have the following issues:
MBD
Slight dehydration
Lack of body weight
Those who posted already have given you solid advice and solutions. The animal is salvageable but time is a huge thing, you just don't have much time and need to act. Kudos for coming here to find help for your critter.
In looking at your photos I see three issues that pertain to the animal itself, others have commented on the cage so I won't touch that.
From the joints, spine, and casque you have the following issues:
MBD
Slight dehydration
Lack of body weight
Those who posted already have given you solid advice and solutions. The animal is salvageable but time is a huge thing, you just don't have much time and need to act. Kudos for coming here to find help for your critter.
.........Really?
whereswaldo
New Member
xeonic
New Member
I agree with Camimom. She has diagnosed MBD before in other posts with Chameleons with bowed arms. That person went to the vet. Exact same symptoms. Lethargic, sitting on the bottom of cage, one bowed arm.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/our-male-veiled-cham-lethargic-weak-wont-eat-73790/index3.html
