Mold in all glass tank

[nightanole]

My baby tank is a 24" cube of plexi with a screen top. Due to that there is not much air circulation but due to the 99% humidity levels in the past 2 months Ive noticed some green mold on the logs while cleaning.

Im not sure what to do to cut down on the mold since if i say, put a vent at the bottom of the cage, that turns it into a lizard jerky maker since its a HOT cage at 95-100 and outside air is only in the lower 80's (no its not a cham cage, and no plants).

 

[carol5208]

Baby tank for what?

 

[fluxlizard]

Why are you keeping a 99% humidity level?
Unless you are keeping dart frogs or something, there is no need for that level of humidity constantly in the tank.

In the first part of the 1990s I used glass aquaria (29 gallon) to successfully breed and keep several species of very healthy chameleons.

My strategy in this limited ventilation system was the following-

Paper substrate (absorbs moisture after light misting, then gives off humidity as it dries out over the next couple hours).

A small live potted plant (pothos vines I used) in a 4-6" pot. These also gave off a little humidity from the soil in the pot and the leaves respiration.

The biggest rule was never ever provide a constantly damp and humid environment. I always made sure the tanks and paper were completely dry between mistings. Usually mistings were 2x per day. For babies more often and no paper substrate, but mistings were just enough to get a haze of water droplets on the glass, but no puddles in the bottom. For babies 3-4x per day was enough. All water was evaporated within 1-2 hours. Constant dampness caused babies to deteriorate quickly in health and was avoided at all costs. Misting was mainly for a little humidity. Drinking water was provided with drip systems and catch bowls that were cleaned daily.

I'm spelling things out so specifically because the system worked and maybe might give you some ideas to compare with. I never had mold in my tanks. It worked for veileds which I kept around 100 under the basking spot in those days (was the recommended temp then), panthers, carpets, dilepis, as well as cooler loving chams like montiums, campani and quads. Constant humidity isn't necessary to prevent lizard jerky.

Without ventilation, don't use substrate that is constantly damp if that is what you are doing. (Just a guess?). And 99% humidity constantly is probably too high for any chameleon in a limited ventilation situation...

 

[sandrachameleon]

My baby tank is a 24" cube of plexi with a screen top. Due to that there is not much air circulation but due to the 99% humidity levels in the past 2 months Ive noticed some green mold on the logs while cleaning.

Im not sure what to do to cut down on the mold since if i say, put a vent at the bottom of the cage, that turns it into a lizard jerky maker since its a HOT cage at 95-100 and outside air is only in the lower 80's (no its not a cham cage, and no plants).

I don't understand why drilling a few small vent holes in the lower third of the cube would be problematic?
Why keep it so humid and so hot?

anyways, sounds like a good thing to keep dart frogs in.....

 

[chefboyardee]

try hydrogen peroxide? pretty good at killing mold and fungal spores

 

[nightanole]

I don't understand why drilling a few small vent holes in the lower third of the cube would be problematic?
Why keep it so humid and so hot?

anyways, sounds like a good thing to keep dart frogs in.....

The 99% was a joke. Its just that it rained in ohio so much in the past 2 months my humidity gauge has never ticked below 75%.

Anyway the baby is a new frilled lizard. An they like a warm spot at the upper cage above 100F that is not a basking spot. I achieved that but when the humidity gets too high i get something that looks like lichens on parts of the wood.

If i add ventilation at the bottom of the tank, ill loose my 100F (now it has to constantly heat air instead of a pocket) and the frilly can dry out pretty fast since i just turned the cage into a chimney or food dehydrator.

I was curious what others used to keep high heat/humidity setups.

 

[fluxlizard]

If the wood is the only problem where this is occurring, and if it is mold or fungus, you should just replace the wood with something else- it must have spores in it.

I used to breed frillies, by the way. My environment is similar to yours- I'm in Virginia.

Everything I told you earlier in this thread about baby chameleons applies to baby frillies as well. Keep the tank simple, paper substrate, let it dry out before rewetting, do that 2-3x per day etc. You can even use a potted pothos to help with humidity. Baby frillies will drink droplets from walls and leaves and a drip catch bowl if thirsty and stay hydrated. I don't think they are as delicate as you might be thinking. Thermoregulatory behavior is the same as other diurnal lizards like chameleons as well. If you provide a range of temps they will seek out what they need. You don't have to have a "hot box". High humidity is more important for breeding frillies than it is for the rest of their lives.

 

[sandrachameleon]

Anyway the baby is a new frilled lizard.

Oh! Naturally, since you posted this thread in the Chameleon Husbandry section instead of the Other Pets and Reptiles section, I assumed you were thinking of it as a baby chameleon enclosure.